Am I going to have to remove the fuel tank so I can get to the transmission under my seat?

@@melaniedickerson507 No, just drop the trans. Full instructions on their website

tufftorque k46

K46 or k57

Be sure break is off

@@garymitchell6490 That means i somehow have to apply the clutch whila also around back pulling that rod...even when I manage to push the clutch pedal and pull the rear rod, it still doesn't go into freewheel.

@@jimhill6586 I opened it. Fully dissasembled it. Cleaned everything. I put new grease and it runs good now.

Did you have to remove the transmission?

@@martinberlanga4914 Yes, I took the transmission out to fully disassemble it. I pened it like a clamshell, threw old grease out, cleaned it all, put new grease, (High Pressure grease I think it's called) and no more problem.

@@phrodendekia I'm confused so the transmission isn't sealed? It seems sealed and the external parts you can replace.

@@martinberlanga4914 Nope, it's not sealed, it's glued together with some sort of poliurethane adhesive, you need to cut through it with a sharp thin blade, then very carefully pry it open. I also think there were some screws, but I just forgot the details 😅 Let me see if I can upload some pictures to a host so I can post you the links

Have the same mower. Awesome trans. Dumb idea to cover it with the gas tank. I cut my tank out and mounted an aluminum 3 gallon tank off the back. Now I can blow it out easily. It would go up the side of the house if I could get traction.

Not sure if it would be a plus or a minus. Might reduce debris buildup, but also make it more difficult to blow out with an air nozzle or even a leaf blower.

Never mind a leafblower. If homosexual special rights are not respected and affirned it doesn’t matter what Craftsman does !

I can commend they've updated the design and are making parts available, but it should cost the customer less. I'm working on a 3d print fix for mine. Original one failed and 150 for a replacement seems too much for a design flaw. I guess that's what I get for buying a plastic transmission.

​@@LethologicaGaming I agree. It's not ok to leave that many moving parts & levers susceptible to interference from clippings packing in there, but not have access to clean them. It's huuuuuge design flaw to have to drop the transmission every year or two just to clean it, and to add insult to injury, they don't readily admit it so you would know what to fix. Instead they sell repair kits like the driven kit, knowing full well that the usual cleaning that automatically comes with that type of drop-the-transmission repair is really what is fixing the problem

jack it up, pull the dust covers on the axles, pull the retaining clips. slide both the tire/wheel assy off. don't loose the keys, you will need to put them back in the slots after you have the wheels back on. make note of the washers, they need to go back on in the seem place they came from. pull drive belt from the top pulley, pull the cotter pin on the clutch/brake spring. next, loosen the left support bracket bolt on the frame on the sides & toward the front of the trans, remove the support bolt on the right side. now above the axles, remove 1 trans bolt on the right side, just loosen the other trans bolt most of the way. remove the trans bolts from the left side. while supporting the transmission, remove the bolt from the left support bracket. unplug any wiring & disconnect any linkage. whils holding the trans up, remove the last trans bolt on the right side. put the trans where you can work on it. to put back in, reverse. when you put the wheels back on, USE ANTI-SEIZE on the axles where the wheels go!!!! get some in the key way slots too. do not cheap out, get good quality anti-seize. and no plain grease WILL NOT work. did you put the right washers on the axles before you put the wheels on? yeah, there are inner washers & outer washers. now rotate the wheels on the axles till the slots lineup & push the keys in. put the washes, retaining clips, & dust overs on. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXy2kGuGeNh2p9U if you did everything right & are lucky, you should be good to go. cleaning thses transmissions only seemed to work good about 1 in 10, & that is being generous. the trans needing to be cleaned like this should not be a thing to start with. good luck!

@@MyNewUserName47 Thanks for the detailed instructions on removal. I got it out and on the bench. I'm going to replace the seals and clean out the accumulation of debris on the top of the trans. I had a little trouble getting the nut off the variable pully. I didn't have the special tool.

@@MyNewUserName47 No fooling this should not be a thing that has to be done! Mine got stuck in reverse and I went about 10 yards down a hill before I could shut it off.

@@groron1 i had forgot about the nut on the vari-pulley, sorry. the special tool is nothing more than a thing that slids on the shaft with a groove in it to sit on the pin and you hold the tool on top with a wrench, it doesn't work very good because you have to hold a wrench on the tool & pull or push the wrench on the nut. its very unweldy trying to do it that way, doing it the way they want you to i figure is a good way to get hurt. i believe the nut is 7/8, a really deep socket with an impact will pull it right off. if you don't have a socket that will fit, i use a air hammer with a chisle bit to get them off.

Welcome to the club

Who thought requiring this service is a good idea for a consumer mower? Mine has the transmission under the fuel tank, so it's a lot harder to get at.

The exact same cvt

@@lukeamundson7881 thanks

What exactly "went out" on it ? Was it an Internal failure or what ?

@@Katmandu2 Internal failure, they stated that you could not open up to replace parts, so I had to buy a new one. Piece of trash.

No they don’t

Cant buy fucking parts for these pics transmissions

I'm on my second RS800. Did you replace the entire mower or just the trans? I'm looking for a metal MTD mod to retro mine.

For any technical problems, please contact us via our website www.generaltransmissions.com/en/contact-us/

@@generaltransmissions5634 Fuck these Transmissions.

I'm going to guess the belt.

Mine spent 2 seasons in the shop and never would climb an slope and would not reverse even on flat ground.

Lose of oil in transmission do to leaky seals at axle.20-50 oil

Lose of transmission oil 20-50 due to leaking axle seals.Noticeable by oil on inside of rear wheels.

Same issue here. Passes all video checks. No evidence of oil leaks. Replaced all belts. Looks like tension is good as nothing is blocking tensioner action. Comes to full stop up hills with throttle fully depressed. Belt is spinning but can't tell if tranny pulley is spinning with it. I have a new rs800 sitting next to it ready for replacement, but not sure if that's going to fix the problem.

@@josephtate168 actually, they are claimed to be made in the USA. i think most of the parts are made in china and shipped here, then the transmissions are assembled here. one of the Carolinas & also somewhere near the woodlands in Texas from what a customer told me,..he had some pictures dated just a few days before i came out. HZ, its done to cut costs, and it cuts quality too.

Because they're cheap.

To save literally two dollars.

J S was just going to comment on the same thing! Did you figure out how to remove the gas tank to get to it? I have a T3000 with the same issue.

Yes--pain in the xxx!

I have the same transmission on my Craftsman T3200. Its a PITA, but you can remove just the fender support bracket to get access to the clean out the variator. This video show that pretty well at the 12:30 mark. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpPGi5iGeJV_h9k

Technical information and distributors contact are also available on the service part website services.generaltransmissions.com/en/home-page.html