Nope. I've tried the same function on a few other vehicles and get the same result.

@hellcat1988 damn, I was hoping this would be the answer.

I had bumps and bruises and a jammed left hip, but I walked away.

There were people that saw the crash there who guessed I probably got somewhere around 6 meters into the air. They didn't have a frame of reference, so they might have exaggerated a bit, but it was a pretty hard launch.

@hellcat1988 thats... horrifying tbh. I'm guessing it was 4-6 meters in the sky and that's like really high up. i imagine what did you feel after waking up. the truck got destroyed, that dent is absolutely insane. pretty sad :( that looked like a pretty nice vehicle ngl. glad you're fine though

@@BrutalCarCrashes370 The truck was pretty rusty, and I don't think I passed out. If I did, it was only for a few seconds. The radiator and the front bodywork got shoved back to the engine in the nosedive, and that crumpling is probably what saved me.

no

I don't have the truck any longer. Sorry.

@@hellcat1988 all good

yeah

The easiest way to spot a 95 engine is the oil/air separator vs pcv valve. The 95 had it, later years didn't.

Answered in a previous comment.

The song is called Rewind by the Rascal Flats

@@rcc_benitwo thanks!

Toyota Pickup. I believe it was an '84. And yes, it was actually just called "pickup" here in the states. It was called the Hilux overseas.

My dad also has a Toyota Pickup but it’s blue

Nah. I stopped driving it a while back, then "borrowed" parts off it to fix someone else's truck and never bothered to order replacement parts for it. I'm sure I COULD get it going again, but between the rusted out frame and the other vehicles I have, I don't really need to get it going again. I'm actually going to pull the bed off to replace the bed on a trailer in the next few weeks, then scrap it.

I sent back my Xtool D8S because most of the special functions only work on a few vehicles. Topology is great, but again depends on the vehicle. It may only display and scan 3 or 4 modules. Xtool is overrated

I paid for a product with a feature to deal with an annoying light on my dash. Now that product doesn't have that feature because they either unintentionally or maliciously removed it. That means I no longer have the product I paid for. Are you implying that you would be perfectly fine with something you paid several hundred dollars for suddenly no longer being capable of a feature you specifically bought it for? More importantly, if they don't care that it's lost that feature, what is the next feature they will be fine with the device loosing in the next few updates? How long before the device becomes virtually inoperable? At what point will I have a several hundred dollar piece of e-waste paperweight? By your reaction, I would guess that you also work for one of these unscrupulous companies and are simply playing p.r. damage control with a comment like that.

@@hellcat1988 why would you buy a full fledged bi directional scanner for TPMS specifically...

@@tragedytm6975 Because that was one of several functions I needed that a simple, non-bi-directional bluetooth dongle couldn't even read, let alone alter. That wasn't the only thing I bought it for though. I also bought it to diagnose abs and srs faults in my vehicles, as well as the vehicles of friends and family that I've been working on. Being able to diagnose a fault in the abs system due to a bad wheel speed sensor, or finding out which impact sensor for the srs systems is causing the airbag light allowed me to fix problems I would otherwise not have been able. The ability to activate various solenoids for testing during fault diagnosis was also a function that I bought it for. Now I'm in limbo as to when each of those functions will stop working, making the several hundred dollar scanner less and less advantageous when compared to the $20 amazon bluetooth obd2 adapter that I pair with Torque on my smartphone for reading basic trouble codes. It's like buying a computer, only to loose the ability to write to a usb drive. Sure, I can still use it for other things, and can still read the drive, but it's still a pain in the ass to know I now have to buy another computer to do a simple, basic function that the computer came with when I bought it.

@@tragedytm6975 Retarded Launch rep detected

That is absolutely something that I plan to keep in mind for the future when I replace this scan tool with one from a company that can actually translate their software to english properly.

Well I haven't seen too many people making videos warning people about the company and their products, so hopefully this helps the next guy who is considering buying one.

That is NOT ok either.

Thankfully I haven't had that problem, but after conversing with the Launch customer support, I've come to lean that they'd rather send out new products to people, rather than rolling back or combing through and fixing their broken software. They're sending me THEIR OWN branded tpm sensors and another tool to avoid fixing the software issue on the scanner.

I would suggest some sort of conformal coating or foam gasket or some other means of keeping it in place similar to what people would do with preventing condensation failure when cooling with LN2. That would be the only way I'd risk using it long term. Running it for a few hrs or days until you can get regular thermal paste is risky enough.

That is the egr valve feed tube, coming from the exhaust manifold. I know that because 1, I am fully capable of recognizing what a smog pump is, and what an egr valve is, and 2, the round hole directly above it, full of black soot, is where the tube feeds into the egr valve before entering the intake manifold through the rectangular port behind it when commanded by the ecu.

@@hellcat1988 ok then how was mine hooked up to the smog pump on my 89 tbi which up to late 92 was the same block as what u n me both have different intakes. So it's nothing to do with the EGR it's all smog. Cuz trust me I'd be more than glad to show ya or I can ya. U have two rub lines which looks like rad hoses which go from a smog pump which belt driven. That metal line connects not just both sides of the exhaust manifolds but also runs into ur cat. Try again. How do I know this, I own a Dakota sport 3.9

@@1992hotrod Do yourself a favor and google 92 dodge dakota 3.9L magnum egr valve. Then maybe take a breath, watch the multiple videos or look at the multiple diagrams showing that the dakota 3.9l magnum in 92 DOESN'T have a smog pump, DOES have an egr valve, and it's on the back of the intake manifold, fed by the pipe off the exhaust, exactly like I said it is. The 91 DOES have a smog pump. The block being the same doesn't matter because it's the INTAKE that the egr is plumbed into. Another difference is that the 92 dakota 3.9l had MULTIPORT injection, not TBI like the 91. Google the chrysler LA engine wiki and do some dam reading, look at a few pictures, and maybe get your facts straight.

@@hellcat1988 do urself a favor n come find this ol mechanic let me show u a few things. U'll thank me for it

@@hellcat1988 better yet why don't u go to California n look under the hoods of them Dakotas guess what u'll find smog pumps

In europe it's called a hylux. In the us, it was just called the pickup.

So I've been told, but I walked away. I have a hip joint that hurts every now and again, from the impact jamming my leg on the dash, but otherwise I'm doing fine.

Watch the video where I actually show it then.

I actually used an old android phone on a windshield mount and just used the video recording feature.

Did u find ur phone back (how did it survive) ​@@hellcat1988

@@hellcat1988Are you alive?

​Yes

Because I haven't had anything worth uploading happen and I'm not one of those idiots who need validation through constant interaction in the comments from their content.

As am I.

Ahh. Well, I wasn't so much trying to do a "how too" as much as a " you can if you're willing to try" type video.

If you haven't ever taken an engine apart before, I advise you NOT do do it unless you have someone experienced helping you, or at least very close by so you can have them come and advise you when you get hung up. There are also several tools, like a torque wrench, that you will need to be sure to reassemble it correctly, that most first timers don't have. You might just be better off trying to find an experienced friend you can bribe with a case of beer and pizza to help you.

Just remember to be careful because you CAN kill your computer if it flows and bridges contacts. It IS electrically conductive metal.

They actually crushed the cab more when they rolled it back over. Before they flipped it on it's wheels again, the seat didn't hit the roof when you flipped it forward.

Been doing alright. My left hip still gives me pains from time to time, but as far as I can tell, that's the only thing even mildly long term about it.

@@hellcat1988 Glad you're doing okay! Hope your hip doesn't bother you too much!

@@mattie7856 Thank you. Any landing you can walk away from, right?

@@hellcat1988 Yep. 👍

Yes, I lived.

Well I can't exactly hold a camera while I'm working, and if you can't figure out how to remove it just by looking it over carefully, you have no business working on it in the first place. This wheel bearing setup is pretty much the most simple designs to remove possible, and one of the easiest to remove, if you actually look at it closely before you start working on it.

Some of the accessories or accessory mount brackets are bolted to both the head and the block, so you'll need to remove them. The exhaust manifolds are also a good idea to remove. Finally, the intake plenum is bolted to both and will need new gaskets. (add a dab of silicone to the edges of the cork intake gaskets where they meet the heads to get a better oil seal when reassembling) To get the intake off, you'll need to get the fuel rail disconnected from the fuel lines, or leave the lines connected and unbolt the fuel rail from the intake. I don't recommend the second option, but it'd what I had to do because I couldn't get the fuel lines to let go. You'll also need to get the throttle linkage disconnected and out of the way. The egr tube is on the back of the engine, if I remember correctly, and that's a bit of a pain to disconnect, but it also has to come loose if I remember correctly. To save yourself from breaking it, I also recommend taking the oil pressure sending unit off the engine before removing the intake. It's the sensor on the back of the engine next to where the egr tube goes into the intake manifold. Just remember to put it back in before starting the truck or you'll spray oil everywhere. You can borrow a water heater element socket from many small local mom and pop hardware stores to be able to get it out and back in. Just make sure you get the right size. Finally, before you even bother to get too far into the teardown, I absolutely recommend trying to find the cast aluminum radiator tube outlet as shown in this video. It solves a long running issue with this engine where the stamped part doesn't seal well and causes radiator leaks, which leads to overheating, which leads to warped heads, which leads to blown head gaskets.

@@hellcat1988 thank you i appreciate your insight. Another question, i see that full heads are on sale for our engine at autozone for $330 each basically and they come machined and whatnot. if i find warpage on my head with this .015 feeler gauge i have and can’t even it up, will it be cheaper to buy 2 new heads then two machine 2 old heads? if i install new heads do i have to crank a pulley, rotate the engine, and ‘reset’ the timing a certain way or is it just plug ‘n play in the sense of just bolting new heads on without adjusting time?

@@hellcat1988 also im so grateful you answered in the first place both me and my buddy you’re like the only guy with good understanding of this neglected ass 3.9l

@@glenmorebarchan You always want to go over new heads with a fine tooth comb and make sure that all the valves are seating properly, that the valve keepers are in place, that there isn't any assembly or casting debris anywhere, and that they are flat and even. There are a few videos on youtube showing what you should do first when buying new heads to help you with that. I have no experience with having heads machined, as I've never bothered to do that. For me, with older vehicles, it's always been cheaper to just buy a whole new engine out of a junkyard than to dig down into the engine and have parts blueprinted at a shop. Any time that you've taken the heads off, you'll need to make sure you have all the timing marks lined up during assembly or you're gonna have a bad time, and maybe bent valves.

If you have a compression tester and/or a radiator pressure tester, use them. Find out if your misfire is from the head gasket leaking into the cooling system by pressurizing the cooling system with the engine cold. If it doesn't loose pressure after a good 15 minute test, and you don't have low compression on the cylinders in question with a compression tester, as long as those piston rings are in decent shape, disconnect the fuel injectors and see if your problem gets worse or better. If those cylinders completely drop out, it's likely not your injectors either. If there is no change, it could be a problem with the fuel system. The last thing to check would be your spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor. If ALL of those checks come back good, then pull your valve cover on that side and rotate the engine with a socket on the crank shaft bolt to make sure that your push rods are opening the valves properly, and to the correct depth. That is the quickest and cheapest series of checks to try and figure out what might be causing your misfire without tearing the engine apart.

@@hellcat1988 youre awesome. Thank you so much. I will try these tests asap. How do i pressurize the cooling system?

@@joshua-the-seer8494 You should be able to rent a radiator pressure test kit from O'reilly auto parts for a day, and they'll return the money to you once you return the tool, provided you bring it back in a reasonable amount of time. Don't keep it for a week, in other words. Failing that, you can buy one from Harbor Freight, but that's generally not a great option unless you do a lot of cooling system diagnostic work and need the tool on a semi-regular basis. Just be sure to take the spark plugs out of the cylinders and spin the engine over to clear any water that might be forced past the head gasket if it has failed, or you could hydrolock your engine and cause serious damage. Milky colored oil or a sweetish smelling exhaust with bluish smoke are also indicators of a failed head gasket.

I did caution about that possibility.

They weren't burnt. They just had a heavy deposit layer. The truck ran fine for a long while after that. Still would, if I put the accessories I scavenged off the engine for other vehicles back on it. It's the only vehicle I've ever owned that I would stake my very life on starting every time I turned the key.

@@hellcat1988 I see holes 😂😂

@@chestonanderson Then you need your eyes checked.