Bummer. Them clutches ain’t usually cheap. They generate a bunch of heat and might’ve just neutralized that loctite. We always used red loctite and big fender washer big lock washer 😅 Good luck G

Thanks brother! That's exactly what was wrong with my 2000 F250 7.3. Now maybe you can tell me why I am depending on a 24 year old pickup to pull trailers. Other than I don't want to give those bastards a lot of money for a plastic new truck.

Any idea what size the vacuum hose for the egr is? Gotta work on a 97 e350 motorhome tomorrow. Need to replace that hose and a couple other things.

why wouldn't you remove the unhinged side of the braces? then they would just flip out of the way.

Brother your hilarious and a huge help, good video

Good information I think he just spent way too much time off subject. This video could’ve been a lot shorter.

🇲🇽💙

Thank you for the only information out there for these mowers... cant even find an owners manual.

big help. Thank you!

That was way more work than necessary.

And how to release hydro stat trans?

I have a 1142 where can i get a manual

You electrical voltage is not adequate buddy been there done that get new altonator❤

Didnt your tractor come with ac already installed?

I had power window, power mirror, dome light, external courtesy light issues, but my radio worked. I thought it was a bad cluster

Thank you!!! That’s exactly what mine was. It looked ok until I tested it … now it have it all back!

Scrub your boots every couple of weeks with saddle soap, let them dry, then apply a conditioning cream or oil. It isn’t hard to care for leather boots and it will make them last for years. You should go through a couple of resoles before the uppers wear out.

Your drive tires are on backwards,

we used o have a 1440 and later a 1488 we ran a 30 foot head on the1488 you need to make sure the bearings on the arms that run the sieves are good if one side has a bearing go out it will cause it to shake the screens apart .another thing the collars that couple the drive shaft to the planetary drive have splines in them they get wore out and have to be replaced . other than that we had good luck with them.

We ran one of these for many years here in the UK. Best combine ever. A problem we had was broken sieves. Turned out worn bushings in the shaker arms was the cause. Another problem was leaks in the bottom of the grain tank where it had rusted away. Then a loss of engine power. That was the gauze filter in the fuel tank getting clogged with sludge.

Best video yet I've seen

Looking at picking one of these up that doesn't crank over for $300 - thinking key switch or safety switch, should be able to bypass them and make it run. Thank you for this video!

Check out speed of air pistons

The brakes never worked on those. What type of concaves and grates are in it? That header will work on machines from 1978 to mid 2000 machines.

Where did you get your seal from?

What made you decide to tear down the engine? Any chance you came across plug harness popping off?

Man were did you get the autel diagnostic tester and how much? I have a 2008 f250 6.4 turbo diesel that is throwing code p0302 number 2 misfire and my glow plugs are being blown out did a compression test and 0 compression from cylinder 2 so have everything took out to the valve cover off and thinking maybe it’s the injector or sensor or something fingers crossed but really would like to get that autel scan tool may help me figure this out a lot?

Just bought a ‘00 Excursion. My rear hatch wouldn’t open. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to fix it. Thanks man! Great video.

I have the White branded version. Not a bad mower, but the lack of parts availability has made it useless nowadays. No blades available anywhere, the use of expensive spindle bearings, and I need a replacement spindle that is NLA means it’s been a yard ornament for several years now. Mine had the Briggs 18 hp flat twin, I switched it to an 18 hp Vanguard. Mine also had the single tail wheel. I built a beam axle with a center pivot to replace it. It rode much better that way. With the single tail wheel, it rode like a bucking bronco! Your back took a beating.

My cable is broke😢. Have a repair video on that

Excellent video sir, very informative better than the professional videos, down to earth like talking to a friend who knows what he is doing.

If a turbo is "shot", can it still be rebuilt?

I get the mower stuck all the time, maybe it’s because I’m used to driving our ford 8n with bar tread that doesn’t get stuck easy, because after I’m done mowing almost half the time i end up getting it stuck beside our Garden. And it’s the worst the to have to walk up to dad and say, “I got the lawn mower stuck”

Thanks for yr video, I went to a hardware store also n it worked so for

The next video will be public tomorrow, don't worry if the link in the description doesn't work right away.

Important: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6DJfWppd7l8rdksi=1nOl5o7J0RrulWiP

Some really really like the sound of their own voice...

You should’ve put a strait pipe on it!

Sir please wake up this is what chemtrails create it wouldn't be nice if you got flooded out because this is what they are trying to do produce 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

That's man made they are trying to create a tornado dummy it's your government

Carbon on your injector is blow by and EGR. A delete, a nice well baffeled larger catch can with 1" ID tubing going to the inlet port and exit port is a must. Do not run smaller tubing or restrict the blow by flow in any way. I have a larger 4X7" DIY can well baffeled with SS wool pot scrubbys in to give the contaminants plenty to cling to. At the bottom of the can is a 3/8 ball check drain valve. This thing is mounted on the right hand frame rail just behind weare the passenger sits. I used two 4.5" muffler U bolts and saddles to mount it to the frame. Its solid and not going any were. The can is well filtered with the SS wool pot scrubbys so at this time it is vented to atmosphere. I don't see a benefit to mess with a very finely meatered air fuel ratio. That gives you the best cleanest combustion HP and MPG possible by pouring all the engine sewage back through the combustion chamber. A properly tuned deiesel engine should not give off black smoke if you have lots of filterd clean air, clean fuel and a professional tune.

Losen your back cab mount Bolts remove the rest and jack up the front clip and cab 6 or 8 " it will help. Then remove the inner fenders you will thank your self after watch not to stretch any thing the top rad hose must come off the stesting shaft trans cable E breake harness connection etc pretty much as though you are going to take the cab off. Then jack it up and put wooden blocks under the cab mounts. Do not use an air hammer on the cab mount bolts. You will destroy the body mounted cage nuts. Use a breaker bar then a long ratchet. You will be going through the excesive factory locktight. If you destroy the cage nuts it will then turn into a much larger job. Removing seats and carpet. But will be much more DIY friendly. See videos on cab removal. To understand what your in fore. A couple of guys that work well together can remove a cab or jack it up in as much as an hour. Then put it all back in the same time. To me and piece of mind it's well worth it. Take pictures of things before you take things apart. It will jog your memory when you put it back together. Whtch the cab removal a few times. 👍

GeoEngineering

My Mom growing up used to call this heat lighting (even if there is no such thing) she meant lightning with no rain. She was always right.

I have one of these to fix up. Just subscribed!

Go out and do a rain dance. You just might be surprised.

No inclement weather after this video was taken (5/1/24). We got an inch of rain last night though, so we're scrambling to get field work and dirt work done before it dries out again!

Absolutely 💯 beautiful mother nature

It is very scary 😢😢😱😱💔😵🤕

Looks like a space ship with smoke coming out of its exhaust.