Vielen Dank für Ihre Frage. Ja der hier beschriebene optionale Spritzgang wird ebenso mit voll durchgezogenem Abzug lackiert. Hierbei ist zu beachten, dass der Abstand noch einmal erhöht wird um ein zu nasses Spritzbild auf dem Objekt zu vermeiden. Achten Sie darauf, dass der Basislack eine leichte Spritznarbe aufweist, so wie im Video beschrieben.

@@Spieshecker danke 🙋🏻‍♂️

Have you tried to find it in Phoenix, our color retrieval software?

Thanks for your comment. This video is ancient and was part of a campaign we rolled out. We suggest that you contact your local distributor if you are a Spies Hecker client. They can support you in this respect surely.

Hi, thanks for the question. There are many PPF products on the market and it is impossible for us to test each and every one to see how the adhesive behaves on freshly applied refinish paint. Also we do not know which paint system has been used on your vehicle. In general though, assuming everything has been applied and dried correctly we advise a period of 14 days after refinishing before PPF is applied. This will allow the time necessary for the paint to fully cure and achive maximum hardness and be resistant to attack from the PPF adhesive

Thanks

Thanks for the question, with the Sata 5500 1.2O I would suggest an inlet pressure of 2 bar (approx29 psi) and a full fan.

Gun settings are a very personal thing to be honest. When using this gun I trim the fan a little to produce a nicer pattern with no tail (distortion) at the end. I tend to use my guns with full fluid flow and in this case I used a 1.2ET fluid tip to control delivery. Howver care needs to be taken with this set up as it can be depending on conditions quite wet leading to darker colour.

The final coat is a light coat of untinted clear to help if polishing is needed.

You are very welcome

Hi, this clear is designed to be used only with the respective hardeners, no reducer needed.

@@Spieshecker ok thanks. Ratio 1:1 or 1:2?

HI, Permasolid HS Race Clar Coat 8700 must be applied in 2 single coats with a short intermadiate flash of 2 -5 minutes between coats. Please refere to the TDS for more information on this product. sdstds.spieshecker.com/Doc/TDS/EN/EN%208700A.pdf

Thanks for the question. This is probably the most challenging fix due to the fact that already flashed basecoat will absorb any subsequent coats applied over it making it difficult to achive a homogeneous film. It really depends upon the severity and extent of the problem you are trying to fix. Small localsied areas can be corrected using RFU material at low pressure - 0.8 - 1.0 bar to apply a droplet coat and disguise the issue . Please see an example of this technique here kzbin.info/www/bejne/amTTe4mtaK2pn9k For a larger area you can apply an even coat plus an additional effect coat without over applying/wetting the substrate but he safest way is to apply clear, dry, sand and reapply the system.

@@Spieshecker thanks for your reply. Have been using this system for a month now in a busy smash shop . I feel after a couple of weeks I have my head around the product now . I’m looking forward to creating content using the system and promoting your products. Thankyou

thx for your feedback and glad to hear your are now into it! Happy days...

HI, thanks for the question. Our technician normally prefers to use P320 when sanding E-coat as this removes any peel or surface imperfections without being too aggressive. The important thing with sanding E-coat panels is to leave the coating as intact as possible to help ensure the highest levels of corrosion protection.

@@Spieshecker Thanks for your reply. 👍

Thanks!

The purpose of the videos is to explain best practice when approaching these special colours and system buil-ups to ensure right first time results. Good to hear that your approach works for you.

Hi, thanks for the question. This method will work equally well on darker colours where some additional control may be needed.

​@@Spiesheckerproblem solved. I quit using Sata for color. Instead i use Iwata Wbx and i have no more mottling. Thank you for your response.

Thanks

Hi thanks for getting in touch. Regarding the addition of WT Additive to the Hi-TEC, our technician followed the mix ratio shown in Phoenix. For the particular varaint he used the addition was 20%. The blending mix you refer to is not a procedure that we follow in EMEA although it may be your area and as you can see from the video our standard process works just fine.

Hi, thx for asking. I will check with my colleauges and let you know...

Please contact our colleagues from customer service. I believe they will be able ot help. [email protected]

When blending the black groundcoat there is no need to apply blender first. You could do but would need to activate the blender as well and keep within the repar panel. The blender is used on the efffect coat to ensure a smooth transition to the original pantwork and prevent any possibility of the blend being visible.

@@Spieshecker Many thanks for sharing your knowlage, keep doing that great videos. Wish you everything best

Hi thanks for the positive comments. The colour and the tinted clear used in this repair are mixed according to the information within our colour software. These types of repair are best carried out by a professional shop who have the necessary equipment and products to produce an invisible repair. Maybe it would be best to seek professional advice locally before attemting touch up repairs.

Hi, thanks for taking the time to get in touch with your comments and question. In normal circumstances H-TEC is applied in a 1.5 coat contnuous process with no inetrmediate flash off and this does not change with the use of WT455. Only in cases where a poor hiding colour is concerned, the recommendation is to apply a thin almost closed coat, flash off and then apply the normal 1.5 coats. If you use this method adding 5% 3080 Basecoat Hardener to the basecoat for the first layer greatly improves results.

Hi, in normal cases Permacron Base Coat Series 293 should cover in 2-3 coats assumning that the product is adjusted and applied in-line with TDS recommendations. Also do you use an appropriate colour surfacer on the repairs? Doing so will reduce the amount of coats required to achieve hiding.

@@Spieshecker yes, i use light grey surfacer but it doesn't help at all... I reduce the base 65% as per TDS... Another base like blu cosmo(428met) cover very well in 2 normal coats..

Hi, the inlet pressures used on this job are: - Blender = 2Bar Basecoat = Initial blend on rear fender 1.6 bar as there was not much room before readjusting the pressure to 2 Bar to finalise the repair. For the effect coat use the same inlet pressures but with an increased distance to the substrate. All information re gun set ups, inlet pressures etc acan be found in the TDS sdstds.spieshecker.com/Doc/TDS/EN/EN%20480_0A.pdf

Glad it was helpful!

Hi, thanks for the question. When Hi-TEC is applied as per the TDS in a 1.5 coat continuous process he basecoat surface after drying is very smooth and therefore supports easy clearcoat wetting with a good gloss hold out. Applying the droplet coat shown in the video as a corrective or rescue method produces a coarser surface which can, depending on clearcoat film build lead to die back in some cases. That is why in this video I suggest to aply a little more clear in the areas where the corrective measures have been applied to help compensate for this.

Ciao, grazie per il commento è sempre bello sapere che i video sono apprezzati. In termini di bordo a bordo sono assolutamente d'accordo con te, ma a volte non hai scelta, temo. Grazie ancora.

Hi, to be honest I do not know which clear you are using but with our EU products our inlet pressure depending on the clear is normally 1.8 - 2 bar (2 bar equates to 29psi)...

Thanks for getting in touch. For 8700 I would prefer a Sata 5500x with a 1.2O set up. Use an inlet pressure of approximately 1.8 bar.

@@Spieshecker thanks

It maybe difficult to see but there was one and the purpose of the video was to demonstrate how to rectify the problem...

Thanks for the question. I would not leave the basecoat longer than 72 hours before overcoating with clear. It's not that the adhesion will be affected but it's more a question of leaving it open to airborne contamination.

Thx a lot for sharing your enthusiasm with us. Happy to see our video made such an impact...all the best!

Hi thanks for your comments. The approach of both fixes is a bit different. On the bonnet the intention is to carry out a touch up to remove a small dust enclosure. The focus here is to keep the repair as small as possible. On the door the issue is different. Here we want to show, how you can fix a bad halo blend once occuring. Of course the area to rectify is larger and therefore the distance of the spray gun to the object needs to be greater than on the bonnet.

Thx for your feedback, glad it is of help...