Thanks man, that’s awesome. Good to know I’m not the only one :D

I designed the crossover lmk if you want the schematic and it was a parts express amp board I’ll try to remember to link you to it tomorrow morning.

@ cool thanks. I’m looking at building a computer desk, and saw your stuff. I may incorporate speakers into the desk just because why not?

@@jeremyvandeusen4317 here's the amp board www.parts-express.com/TPS3116D2-Class-D-2.1-Bluetooth-5.0-Amplifier-Board-2-x-50W-100W-with-Filter-and-Volume-Co-320-635?quantity=1 shoot me an email at noahbwoodworks @gmail.com for the schematic

🍻

KZbin recommended me “worlds best”

Thanks! I had the same idea but the knobs I got didn’t fit right and it felt extra

DIY perks did a build like that it’s awesome

@@noahbwoodworks He did and it was also great. My design is able to have two 20x24 house air filters to reduce system cleaning while accommodating either water cooling for up to three 480mm rads or even the largest of air coolers for minimum maintenance.

It sure did, I got an education on titebond during this project :D I realized that the glue joints were probably compromised after the first big glue up and used a space heater to heat the shop during the rest of them. Off camera I ended up gluing bracing into each corner of the compromised joints to sure it up and hopefully give it added strength. Time will tell on how well that worked. Thanks the recommendation on Wilson I'll give that a go soon. I've been battling the cold temperatures for a while now, makes it so hard to glue things up.

Thanks brotha man

Thanks so much! Grateful for any encouragement in these early stages. Hopefully the following vids have more interesting subject material and less struggle :P

Thanks man appreciate it!

Dimensions and a guide

No plans just a sketchup file and spreadsheet of speaker components. Email [email protected] and I’ll send some useful info your way

@ thank you very much

Thanks! Appreciate the feedback.

The power switch has a replaceable fuse that will blow before it hits the power supply.

@@noahbwoodworks I'm generally talking about the serviceability of the amp and all the circuitry

@@Стамескин-н2ы ah yes, the serviceability is not the most convenient. But to get to the amp is easy, you just unscrew the wooden plate with the knobs and the whole thing pops out. Then if you want to service the speakers or get inside the case that's a little more tricky. You'd flip the whole thing upside down and remove the 8 inch woofers on the bottom, then you'd have two large holes to work with.

Thanks glad you like it!

🫡 thanks man appreciate it

Thanks man. I had an idea to do a hinge of some sort for the top, would make servicing the piece a whole lot easier but ultimately I wanted the piece to be as sturdy as possible. Time will tell, I was also worried for the structural integrity of the miters as I started glueing this up in the middle of winter when temperatures were well below titebonds recommended. That’s why the first few joints you see are chalky in color/texture. You’re totally right though it’ll be interesting this summer when the whole thing swells 2-5%.

I was thinking the same thing. Hopefully it doesn't split to bad because of seasonal movement. I was also wondering if my coffee would be moving from the sound vibrations. Nice looking table.

Thanks me too. The walls of the enclosure are 3/4 inch. This thing weighs an absolute ton lol. Idk if you’d be able to drive the speakers hard enough with the little amp to shake it. Maybe a power amp but that’s overkill

What would have been an alternative of gluing the top?

Now I'm wishing that I had thought to do that lol. Awesome feedback thank you.

I was also thinking a distinct reverb box at the back for the woofers (and facing out at the sides) as the inevitable piling up of stuff on the bottom shelf will block the output.

@ the first designs for this had the tweeter/midranges pointed out from the sides. The people I made this for wanted it more directional because it would be at one end of the room. Lower frequencies tend not to see as many boundaries as higher ones.

🫡

In my future designs I’ll be including removable grills. The people I made this table for weren’t worried about hurting the drivers. I didn’t film this but I glued bracing along every internal corner to help solidify the glue joints and hopefully help stabilize the mitered joints. Time will tell.

@@noahbwoodworks if the customer want it that way - than be it. And with the bracing - let's hope the customer only comes back for a nother contract.

Me too mix is impeccable

Thanks for the heads up and for watching till the end

The table's got an 3.5 mm aux input and a variety of knobs for controlling the tone 👍

@ Typed that before I watched the whole thing lol this thing is sick!

Thanks so much!

Thats an awesome compliment thanks so much :) The table has 5 rechargeable lithium ion batteries I unfortunately didnt get any film of.. The idea was if the customer wanted to hide the cable for company, or if the cable was in the way for some reason, they'd have the option to disconnect it and still use the sound system.

This was the look I was going for but my brother had the same thought when he first saw it. On future projects I'm looking to add a removable grill so there will be the option to hide/protect the drivers. Parts express sells little ball and socket pieces for custom grills and I'm looking forward to giving those a go.

This was for a customer but I drastically underbid the project lol. Took way longer than I thought, but I liked the project so much that I wanted to secure it. Made for a nice portfolio piece. Thanks so much for the kind words.

Thanks man, I’m using a canon m50 mk2 with a canon EF 50mm f/1.4 lens. I use a viltrox speed booster/adapter to get the EF lens down to the m50 EOS mount. Tbh if I could do it over I’d get the nicest action cam on the market and roll with that. GoPro and/or DJI with good accessories will get you anywhere you wanna go.

Glad you enjoyed it :)

He has access to band saw and lathe, but you can get away with just hand tools. A #5 jack plane, #4 smoother plane and a block plane, a handsaw, a flush cut saw etc. His tenons are cylindrical which don’t make the strongest joint. Tapered tenons are a lot stronger and you can make those with a Veritas 5/8 tenon cutter which looks like a pencil sharpener for bigfoot. And finally a reamer, also from Veritas to cut the corresponding mortise.

@ thank you so much! Learning slowly what tools I need to get started, and this is a project I would love to work towards. Appreciate your help!

Hello, thanks for your comment and apologies for the extremely late response. I used 8/4 scrap cherry wood for the seat and 8/4 walnut legs. The cherry cross members probably started out as 4/4 strips. I hand planed tapered octagons for the legs and non-tapered octagons for the cross bracing. kryptic0 is 100% correct with what he said about tools. cylindrical tenons work if you're not wanting to spring for the tapered tenon cutter/reamer. I'll also mention that this project came straight out of "The Anarchists Design Book" by Christopher Schwarz. It's the Staked Low Stool on page 84. I'd highly recommend his entire Anarchists series. Awesome read and amazing place to start if you're looking to get into hand tool woodworking. Probably start with the "Anarchists Tool Chest" :)

Those are 20mm holes. Buy the dogs first, measure them, then drill the holes. Dog manufacturers will often give the sizing specs so you can get the right bit at the same time. The adjustable dogs have the nickname “wonder dogs” hopefully that makes finding them a little easier 😊

Thanks man 🤝