Porcelain is non porous they spray right off and don't even need to be sealed.

Hi, it’s the standard concrete block from Marshalls, in pennant grey.

That’s all good, you do you. Always different ways of doing the same thing. This was the first time we used the levelling system, normally we don’t.

@@fangornlandscapes5867 and how did you find them ? Helpful or just a gimmick how did u find them at breaking off ?

@Boxingfirst Breaking off was alright, found it was a good way of letting the customers know it’s been recently laid. However we don’t use them anyone. Like you said, a level, string line and spacers is more than enough to get porcelain paving done.

Strange, you can quite clearly see the construction of a soakaway.

Yes that is correct. Generally we just did 25cm to be safe.

Hi, yes normally block paving is laid how you described. However this block has to be laid slightly different. There is still hardcore rock underneath, but instead of sand you have to use mortar and also fill the gaps with mortar

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much for your kind words, nice to know our hard work and attention to detail is noted!

professionals filling theirs and the neighbours lungs with dust and silica sand?

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you! 👍

Water will run off onto the grass. Gravel on the side is just a precaution that we like to do that catches any small bits of water

@@fangornlandscapes5867 oh I missed that 1 in 80 fall.

Yes, we warned the customer that he needed a drain, however they refused to have one. The water will still run off the patio onto the grass due to the 1:80 water fall.

Hi, sorry for the late reply, comment got held for spam for some reason. The pointing is some stuff called Norcros, not a big fan of it but the customer wanted it. I've not used Fuga Pave Flex, but I've only heard good things from it. Personally I like using Flowpoint or GFTK.

Hi and thank you! We haven't ever done a PQC layer so i wouldn't say it is necessary. What type of paving are you thinking of going for? Our process is dig-out, lay down a non-wolven membrane down to prevent soil migrated to type one, 100-150mm of Type One limestone and then 3-6cm mortar bed at a 1:4 cement to sharp sand ratio. We always recommend to slurry the back of slabs.

@@fangornlandscapes5867 Your process is exactly what I'm thinking of doing as well, so that's reassuring - we are looking at either sandstone or porcelain with a preference towards porcelain.

A paving quality concrete layer is nonsense on a domestic setting it's for commercial applications,you either lay hardcore/type one and then lay your paving on sand and cement bed or you can lay porcelain different by pouring a concrete slab and lay porcelain on tile adhesive,but a pqc is nonsense

Nice job lads not sure about your little whacker plate,a bit light weight for my liking

@@scoyle1750 Cheers, yeah it wasn't the ideal whack plate tbh. It's why we were doing such thin layers.

Hi, Paving shouldn't be place above the DPC as it would then cause damp issues. In this video we are cutting it close as we are only half a brick away from the DPC, ideally you want to be a brick below to stop the splash of rain. This customer was advsied on this and also advised to have drains at the end of the patio, which they did not want even after explaining why they should have them. The patio has a 1:60 fall towards the garden.

@fangornlandscapes5867 thanks very much for information. Very useful.

Looks awful

Savanna is the type of block, charcoal is the colour.