What are those fuel connectors called?

Did you have to tear the bottom end of the motor apart to change the rod bearings?

In order for me to get the magneto cover off, do I have to take off the header pipe or will it come off without having to take it off? Also, what is that center Allen bolt on the magneto cover? Do I have to take that off as well?

Thanks Kevin! doing this today on mine.

Do you need a clutch tool to remove it

Had same issue on my Artic Cat 700 EFI and in the same location. I Replaced the bushing and tighten it up to spec. Could have been the hex nut loosened over time. Bushing appeared fine but out of precaution just replaced it. Problem solved. Looks like an Artic Cat defect.

That makes for a bad day!

Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqHafmVsp7ScmdE I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.

Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqHafmVsp7ScmdE I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.

Dont sand the pillars. Sand the black material that slides against it. I measured mine with a micrometer and they all varried in thickness. Sand them down and its buttery smooth

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ine8ZIiEo5qFhdk What could it be?

yo bro do you do side work I like to get my clutch done

Did this fix yours? Also what did you use to do it?

Thanks Kevin. I have the same issue. What did you use to sand/polish the pillars?

How did u fix it ?

Looks like it covered a wide area. Horrific damage! After seeing many tornadoes myself i still can't get my head around how powerful they can be. Stay safe!

Just replaced my 2 way bearing and my wildcat trail is as good as new

Any problems so far??

Hows it holding up, any problems?

There are 2 (Fine Thread) bolts that hold the heat shield that both fell off my kitty and made a heck of a rattle. Luckily, I had a couple that fit (Short about 1/2 inch bolts.) Seems like I found these in the junk yard in a 2000's Chrysler. Mine are 10mm, going to look for more next time I go there. They fit perfect but had to put washers on them. No more rattle.

is the problem fixed with a clutch kit? i dont think so.. :(

hi kevin... i can not shift my 2015 wildcat trai when the motor is warm/hot...are there any possibilities to replace the clutch? has arctic cat revised a newer clutch? I'm grateful for any help....

What's the part number?

If you brake the clip go to napa and ask for a ford 3/8 fuel line clip the clip is like $7.00 rather then $68.00 for the fuel line from arctic cat.

Looks like fun!! Hope your Mom and Dad get to enjoy it!!

Thanks for the video. Thats me in the black rzr. Been lookin all over for a video of that race. Thanks again

Great video.............

I can have the plastics of in 30-45 minutes. You can save time by removing the bed and headrest plastics together in one piece. As far as I know, my header has never been red hot.

How long did it take you to take the back cab out? Have a issue with my heat shield. Ever notice your header pipe glowing red also? I run premium and it stock as far as exhaust and motor.

They just came out with a service builtin for this problem. They will fix the issue on the 2015 and 2016 Sport models.

all in all have to say these problems are little ones...and doesnt stop you from ridin.... the net is full from burnt up razors, broken axles a.s.o.- my trail has a leakin waterpump after 2000(!) mls - thats all- can live with that- now guys buyin 30tsd dollar bmw motorcycles havin more problems-arctic cats quality is is not bad!

That's how they are. Ask to see a new one on the showroom floor it will be the same. I have had a 2011 HDX and now a 2015 Sport Limited both had movement like this. Did not affect the machines or cause any excessive wear. On my HDX I replaced the bushings thought they were wore out from snow plowing with it. After replacing them it was exactly the same.

mine gto some slack after only a few short rides but nothin to worry about i wouldnt worry about the slack u have there untill it gets worse than that there will always be play in the bushings alittle wont hurt anything unless your flying a rocket ship its nothin

same thing on my 2016

i have the same thing om my ltd, aparently its normal :(