I rather grind the file into a blade.

To give a sense of scale, the closest approach was still 13,000 mile away from the atmosphere

Hello uploader from seven years ago, this happened to me today and I’m pissed. Anyways, have a blessed day.👏🏾😤

Is This In Boston MA?

Thank you for doing this, perfect 👍

Is it still working, or how long has it worked? Do you have had any problems? Maybe burned ICCU? I want to connect to a 700W INVERTER-Microwave. I think this is no problem for 10 min each ? 700 W >>> maybe 1100 W Real, 1100 W : ca 14,5 V = 75 A/14,5VDC Can I connect to a 900W cleaner? 1.500 W converter with 1.200 W continous Power o.k. ? What Do you think? Do I need SOFTSTART on the converter due to the high Power consumption on the cleaner on the first seconds ? Maybe overcurrent-Protection Switch to off the Converter but not start the 900w-cleaner? What Do you think?

This is still fire

great video

I made my own version with credits, I hope it's ok by you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3K1nHWilt95qcU

Mushroom 🍄 white spots probably taste like cheesecake yummy 🪞🕊️🪽🗡️💔

Can you detail how you get the Nest to command your air conditionner ? Especially the connections between ESP32 ?

Excellent setup. I have pretty much all the same parts in my Amazon checkout - i was trying to figure appropriate fuse size, interesting that Kona utility fuse is 150A. Unfortunately I don't think my wife is going to let me drill holes or set permanent cables, it will have to be removable so that dealer doesn't see it and void warranty. Primarily need it for fridge/freezer and router - gas cooker and wood stove take care of the rest.

I know this video is incredibly old but the ballast is just a choke or inductor with a laminate steel core as it resembles a transformer. I know this because my Mom has this exact lamp, I had to repair the brick by putting it into an electrical box and ran a grounded cord from that box out of it. The lamp is pretty basic as there is no electronic ballast and as long as you get a direct replacement LED, it should work fine. The ballast is there only to reduce current. It's an old way of doing it, but functional. When you do electrical projects like this, it doesn't hurt to have Marettes (if you're American, wire nuts) on hand for simple tests like this. Heck, since this is nil in power consumption, you could get away with Wagos, the speaker pinch terminals of the electrical connecton world. Also, why go through the effort of soldering another cord to it when you could just use a standard plug from your favourite hardware store? You could even get one of those pinch plugs where you pinch the blades, remove it from the housing, slip the cord through the housing and pinch the wires with the plug blades and slide the whole assembly together. It's a much cleaner, safer result without using electrical tape. Electrical tape isn't the appropriate way of wiring this thing. If you must use anything to insulate, some heat shrink tubing would be best, but buying a two prong plug works just as well.

Nice job, but I guess warranty for the car is gone...

Hi , i really like your video but i really need your help i have 13 pir sensors that will be installed in the cieling they have three terminals two for live and neutral and one for signal i've already setup the live and neutral wires for them now i have 13 signal wires that is 220v as this is what i think the output would be as shown on the sensor boxes and i tried to power different lamps using it and it does that so i guess it's 220v now i need to connect those 13 sensor to an esp32 so i can add esphome and connect them to home assistant i am just wondering if there is a module that i can buy or a pcb i can print in my country or if i did it on a bread board would it be different from the video as my knowledge is really limited in this topic and those are 13 of them and i can't find someone proffessional to help me with it but you , Thanks in advance

This introduced me to Optocouplers and Optoisolators: thank you!

Thanks for this. Disabled the clocks and mounted into a black housing i made from some black trunking covers! 😎😎😎 kzbin.info/www/bejne/sIaagZiQrrqdf7Msi=x8XKZJj-Bit6ij66

Thank you - like the previous comment, this was exactly what I needed

NASA need to design and build a probe to send inside Jupiter that can take photos and videos of inside Jupiter. I so badly want to see what Jupiter looks like inside and it would be so awesome to see what Jupiter looks like inside.

Hi! Does the braker is important or only for extra safety? Thanks

Thank you. This was exactly what I was looking for! 👍

Best White Noise App ever invented. Thanks a bunch! Blessings! -❤☀️

A direct replacement 💯- with ballast removed is Keystone Non-Dimmable 8.5W (990 lumens) 120/277 volt - PLL - 4-Pin (2G11) Base - 5,000K - Daylight - Shatterproof Glass Single Twin Tube PLL LED Bulb, Ballast Bypass " product is KT-LED8PLL-9GC-850-D 8.5w light output is equivalent to the Ottlite 18 watt --also GREEN CREATIVE 34859 980 Lumens - 8 Watt - 4000 Kelvin - LED PL-L Lamp Replaces 18W CFL - 4 Pin 2G11 Base - Ballast Bypass - 120-277 Volt -

good vid

Jupiter might be the most beautiful planet in the solar system!

This is an amazing game and the soundtrack was just as good. Thank you for uploading!

Hi Paul, Thanks for the video. The tube in our lamp is a 18PLL830 which is probably the same as your original twin tube CFL at about 240mm long. Amazon is usually pretty quick sending stuff to me here in NZ so I will check them out. Out of curiosity, how do you find the light output now with the 9W LED lamp as opposed to the original 18W rated CFL?

Yes, thank you! I was wondering if the Kona Electric has V2L like the Ioniq 5 but apparently not. This looks like a pretty elegant solution to get some backup power to run a few things in the house.

Looks like good CGI

The cutting through that sheet of paper was hilarious.

So incredible :)

Imagine if Galileo was still alive to witness this... how far our technology has come

this is computer shit

FM/iX?

Fantastic.

My words exactly... who the hell wants another clock. I want to have this under my monitor and only show the chart when music and it's not just that a clock. Having a regular LCD clock would not be annoying but this has these fancy spinning numbers, sometimes it switches to the date. Having this in your eyesight all day long is annoying AF at best. Gonna mod it asap and give negative review for the seller. This should be possible from the menu.

My favorite gas giant. Nice fly by 'visit'. My life is complete now. I've always wondered what it would be like to see it from a different angle going past since I'm so used to seeing it from the front, and got it. Thanks!

This is fake, it’s a computer simulation.

What happens now when Hyundai eliminated ultility mode in the os? After an update, I can't find this mode in the options.

ahhh my fav part of the song!! u did great btw <3

Nice, just a bit closer into its atmosphere.

Thanks Paul. Nice work on the video and the solder. I found the bulbs on Amazon if watchers wanna know how to get em fast. Thanks again

beautiful

Pretty amazing video. It looks bueatiful unless you happen to be standing in it🤔

Wait, is this real? It looks like it’s going too quick.

Neat use of AutoHotkey Paul!

Soon my energy contract will run out. I will have to pay 400% more, but can charge for free at work. This might be usefull to dampen the bill.

good

I would love a full cover of the song with the piano or maybe from 3:20 , you are so talented

Thanks for your writeup Paul. It was super informative, I've done similar tweaks to my ARC-14S. Have you looked into any ways to measure air leaking in/out? Lately it's 95f outside and my unit's struggling to keep it 78f. I'm thinking of a cheap smoke machine and a UV light or something to try to watch airflow around intakes... I've created a duct-tape+foam seal over the window fitting that is maybe better, I measure ~2-3 degree difference than before. I applied reflective insulation film to the windows, seems to also be superior to my curtains. It's crazy to me how little innovation there is in this space. I have a second unit on the way, a Honeywell hw4cedaww0 just because I'm theoretically running the ARC-14S with a higher sqftage than it was intended for. But that model is still the highest capacity on the market! I also noticed your graphs rising in temperature after initially being at a lowest point. I wonder if there's some more engineering that can be done to reduce the impact of the compressor's heat on the room. I'd like to take a sabbatical some time and completely redesign the body for this unit.... surely there's insulation opportunities that have been missed.