@@SoccerIsGoated00 u should go watch 2017 world champs when ped testing was in full effect across the board for everybody. A natural "9.58" placed 3rd behind a 9.90 first place. Yohan who did every workout, training regimen, food intake that usain did. Yohan still running and cant sub a 10flat. Remove 1 component and they are slow. Tyson gay was 9.80+/- til the positive test. Then struggled to 10flat after that.

@thisismee3642 why do you lie about your speed tho?

@@SoccerIsGoated00 no lie, u have to see it in real time. I fake front or be phony for nobody for nothing. Go watch my 200m video, you will hear the response of suno college athletes response to warching me run. They watching real time in the flesh

@@8BitMusics1 I dont know. I just know I picked up the meter to move out the way. It looked like a welders arc. I have seen the video of powerlines electricity jump between power switches when opening and closing. I was in awe after I just dropped it and started recording the smoke cause I know nobody would believe it. I be having stories but I dont post all of them.

So you only cut your grass twice a year? 😁

@@fredcederholm284 either you have a small yard and I mean small, the grass dont grow much, you cutting every 4days. Or your normal walking pace is snail slow. That you dont notice the reduced speed because you moving slow already. My walking speed is about 3+mph

@@rafielagard4183 I didnt remove the bearing from clutch shaft. There is a t25 torq screw holding bearing in the housing

Honda hrx217hxa hydrostatic maintenance

Fa'sho glad it helped u.

Yes but this is when houston was getting rain 2-3days straight. Break for a day then more rain. Another break then more rain. End of April to the end of may. Tornadoes and wind storms. So had to cut when days wasnt raining. This is st.augustine grass that grows crazy with any form of moisture. The grass was about 8-10inches from the earth. This yard get thick quick.

Fa'sho

I dont live in new orleans any more. I still train but have not been training this year because I flipped off my motorcycle in january. I have be rehabbing my injuries. Nothing broken just strained alot. I just walked away and left the motorcycle.

@@thisismee3642 Awww, sorry to hear that man. I'm happy you're doing better though! Stay safe and have a good day.

The factory belt is ½, I saw the pulley arrangement can accept ¾ belt. ¾is heavy duty and transmitt nearly all engine power without stalling in thick grass.

Fa'sho

I dont have the hrx anymore. I sold it for the hr215 model with gear drive. U cycle tge lever about 5 times. The purpose is to remove the air from system. Air causes bubbles, air can compress reducing the hydraulic effort.

The best way I can explain it from my experience. Mobile 1 full synthetic 80%conventional 20%synthetic additives Amsoil 100% synthetic 100% synthetic oil The best way to experience the 100% oil is with an air-cooled engine like a lawnmower/2cycle engine. The reason I use those is because it is a small scale. You can test with 1quart of the expensive before investing the whole $120+/- for vehicle oil change. This way u can changes by listening. The key point here is heat dissipation, heat transfer, and heat resistance. Run ur lawn mower with ur choice of oil until hot, remember the sound. Immediately drain the oil and replace with 100% synthetic. U should hear the engine smooth out. Even mixing the 100% synthetic 4cycle motor oil to gas(2.4oz per gallon regular gas) for weedeater/chainsaw/etc. Empty previous 2cycle gas and add the fresh synthetic mixed gas u should hear a difference when the 100%syn hits the system. Thats what I personally experienced. I was servicing lawnmowers for pay. I would upsell my 100% synthetic stock for lawnmower oil change. I would let the customer listen to lm with there oil. After the change they would hear the engine smooth out and comment. I heard the change. The reason I use lawnmower as study is because it is air cooled. The temperatures go up as u load the engine. Idle u see about 250-270°f free/light load but anywhere from 350-400°f under load. The air cooled will break down regular/full synthetic turning it black in about 4 cuts. The heat breaks the convention portion ofthe full syntheic oil down. Causing it to blacken With the 100%synthetic it does not cook under the load. My lawnmower oil keeps a slight brown oil once old black is flushed out. Also I have seen the old tarnished oil sticking to the interior engine block/case melt off once the 100%synthetic cycled the system for a period. 100% synthetic is itself a detergent to keep the internals clean. I now run the amsoil transmission fluid and the car shifts silky smooth. It was time for maintenance change so just went with 100% synthetic trans fluid. Also I have had oil spills with the 100% synthetic wipe and rinse, what oil spill? Oil spill with conventional u might as well spill across the floor so everthing is the even stain concrete.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6urg4yuh86VpcUsi=ihq0JkcgmfACi-tk This will show u air cooled engine temps. Car engine temperature is regulated to 230°f+/- by the water cooled radiator system

This shows how huge my stride gets aand how fast my turn over is. U see for ur self why it looks like spedup. The movement is crazy fast. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e32zkGSHhMZ0nqM

Also this is on concrete not no track that gives bounce back with every stride. On concrete u have to power ur way through. Aint no cruising at speed. Either u have the power or u dont

Check this out kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2q1o3Sbf9V2oKcsi=MC5ED61FwkWFGWtX

No! Thats not her house with tge overgrown yard. That homeowner is unknown to me. Its a sequence of events and play on words that all aligned to shake me up. It was her conversation saying this house front yard dont need much just a lil weed eating. But the back is where the business is at. So seeing the overgrown grass was disturbing sight as I was looking for the correct address.

@@thisismee3642 got it

Pull off the wheels. The metal gear connected to that drives the wheels may be backwards. Simply turn it around. Sounds like the ratchet mechanism is in the wrong direction.

Do one wheel at a time. First the right (standing holding the handle bar)side. Test it, if it solved stop. If not do the other side. Other than that I cant diagnose over the internet. But that is likely

@thisismee3642 I pulled both gears on both sides off, I used pliers to rotate the axle but it just rotate one direction (forward). When engine is running, everything is normal, pushing forward, pulling backward are normal without drive engaged. Thank you for your response.

I remove the transmission from the mower. I try to rotate the axle by hand, the axle just rotates counterclockwise direction, and can not rotates clockwise. I try to rotate my friend mower (same model) axle and it rotates both directions easily. What wrong with my transmission and what do you recommend. Thank you.

I cant diagnose this aspect over the internet. The metal gears being backward would cause that symptom. That us the only diagnosis other than the drive mechanism being jammed and keeping the rotation going forward. I sold my hrx217 when someone offered my profit for my unit. I am rough with my mowers and the fiberglass body is easy to break. I have a hr215 master with a metal mesh gear drive and aluminum body.

8oz. Fill it to the little hole cycle a few times and top off

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJDXZ2lupdCfiq8 here u go

Yes I take everything apart tweak and tune to my liking.

You simply fill the hole at the top. I should have shown the refill procedure step by step. I didnt consider the non mechanic when making the video. My bad, but I did link a video that I used to dissemble in the description since he had the factory step by step procedure already recorded

Its 8-9oz. Just fill to the fill hole

The way the system works is hydraulic pressure. In order to keep the pressures high tolerances need to stay tight. Old fluid doesn't provide the needed friction reduction to insure long life of the unit. Best to maintenence change it while it's working great rather when it starts slowing down. The reason it's slowing is because it is looking it's viscosity. Oil breaking down and not providing the friction resistance to reduce the wear. I would change it it it has been in service for a few years just to maintain the unit. Just know to buy a new unit is $150+ vs $15 for a bottle of hydrostatic fluid.

I would recommend round .155 cause the tri-angle/square string is not very cooperative. It will wrap and work just had many hangups. You will have to shave the inserted portion to fit into spool holder. When I tell you it thrashes it becomes a machine. I have my machine tuned to be gentle medium or peak rpms machine. The .155 be whipping everything you point it at.

@@thisismee3642 thanks a bunch!

Lets get one thing understood. I dont like spending money unnecessarily! So spending $300+\- for transmission on a $500 unit out? Since it is still strong cant go wrong fluid change $15. Next thing is the unit will get hot because it operates by means of hydraulic pressure. Anytime you create pressure the temperature will rise. Temperatures above 125f* will not be comfortable to touch. These residential mowers are intended to operate for about 30-45 min once a day once a weak for about 4months out of the year with the factory honda fluid. I would invest in high quality 100% sysnthetic fluid. I used amsoil 20W-50 Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid with my hrx217 and it became a duty mower. Duty is what you are doing by running it constantly for more than 45min a day, everyday. With the amsoil you have to let it warm up for about 5min then it is ready for duty work. I would recommend 100% synthetic engine oil also. The regular conventional engine oil not really a duty oil especially in these air cooled engines. Check out this video. Start at the 4:17 mark. It shows engine temps at free spin. Once you load it with grass and self propel. The engine temps rise significantly kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6urg4yuh86VpcU

@@thisismee3642 thank you for your opinion. You are very nice and very helpful.

Not exact but its around 8 fluid ounces

@@thisismee3642 thank you.

Understand this about these bearings. That very thin clearance will only allow something smaller than the opening. Also there was no dirt because previously wiped. Mind you these wheels operate in a dusty dirty environment. 2 reasons for these being dry. 1 because all the manufacturers use something equivalent if not exactly cheap petroleum grease. Also know as Vaseline in the united states. So the rolling and little bit of water contact is what washes the grease away. I wouldnt wash them out with and harsh solvent. And you are going to need strong solvent to thoroughly remove old grease. Not sure how the wheel plastic is going to react to the chemical. Them solvents may soften the plastic making it brittle.

​@@thisismee3642mine were gritty so I popped the bearings out of the wheels and spun them in solvent outside face pointing down. I let them dry out to avoid hurting the plastic. Then oiled them. Been fine for 10 years now. Thinking of doing it again soon! Beats mowin' !

I like your grease idea... may try that. Didn't know that the bearing would stuck the grease in like that.

Cant really diagnose over the internet without hearing. Based off the probable things that could go wrong. 1 could be that the drive gear for the wheels could be dry and sticking. The ratchet gear spring slots may need greased. 2nd one of the ratchet gear may be on backward. So that is why the noise is still present when self propelled is engaged. 3 grease the pass through for the drive shafts for the gears. Other than seeing and hearing it my self.

@@thisismee3642 thanks for the reply and the help, I’ll try that