@@ZohaibKhan-qk8vq I’m not 100% sure. Doesn’t Hawkeye use TGV? When I did my radium rail, I had to use specific injectors and they weren’t the same size as standard Subaru injectors as far as I know so really depends on the rail that you’re using.

@@JordieMotive97 report back on the shifter position? Cos I am not 100% clear on which version fits which car. I know remote fits jzx90/100 & non remote fits old supra/soarer. But SC300/jza80 I’m hoping that remote is the right position for my stepsons car.

@@jasonmartin. no worries. I had someone else explain it for me :)

@@marcop3517 the only ones I know for sure (in Australia) have a 2GR-FE v6 engine. Overseas there might be others that have it. You can easily measure the shaft length or have the seller do it for you. We bought a 160 shaft box for aud $400 & a 190mm shaft aud $300 & are having it swapped over. I did it to my mates box also.

@@rageu yeah man, I asked some guys online & this was the best solution. No drilling to bigger fittings etc. I forgot to mention, use teflon tape in the npt fittings. Mine did leak at first, but tape sorted it out.

@@Sedona_FD3S if something is $$$ in USA, double it for Australian dollars. Man it sucks. We do get paid more, but the money doesn’t go as far. Plus it’s a smaller market, so things are often more expensive cos they don’t sell as many.

@@alexross26 haha, yeah the neighbours dog gets upset when the owners leave

@@AYoutubrrr well it did because I had to increase the duty cycle on my boost control.

The metal they use is ass also

@@OddClancy did you listen to the whole video? I mention pulsar housings when talking about the shape.

@@Fine_Performance sorry is that what you meant when you said the "newer Chinese copies?"

@@OddClancy yes sorry, “copies of the newer Garrett designs”. So I had a look at a G35-900 exhaust housing & while I can’t confirm it’s exactly the same as a Garrett G35, it had the rounded/ better shape to the housing. Unlike the hard edge & smaller opening of the cheap one I have on hand.

@@OddClancy I have had people comment that pulsar rear exhaust housings seem smaller than the genuine garret ones, but the shape of the one I saw looked “pretty good”.

@@EVOLLOVEx you just have to get under there & look for anywhere oil is getting on the headers or exhaust. UV dye in your oil is a massive help. But even my car, I somehow get strong exhaust fumes in my passenger side (left side looking forwards in Australia). There’s just so much exhaust &/or areas that heat up that if a small amount of oil hits it, it will cause a smell. Have a look through some of my other videos, I went through everything I possibly could fix, for over a year. Turned out my gearbox was overfull as it had the wrong dipstick, was one major cause of some issues.

@@mikaelafox6106 get under it & check for leaks. Mine ended up being the gearbox overfilled with oil. But cv join boots & axles seals, valve cover gaskets, cam seals. There’s heaps of places can leak. UV dye & a black light is a massive help to find leaks.

@@Fine_Performance thanks for the info! I'll give it a go!

@@rageu no, but they’re pretty easy to Google.

@@GR7Media ha ha no worries. I mucked it up the first time. And yeah, it was tricky to find the right info online.

@@rageu no worries! I’m just making up a plate to mount the pedal. It’s a bit more complicated than just buying a pre fabbed mount. But it’s not too tricky. I’ll share once I’m happy with the final solution.

​@@Fine_Performancelooking forward to it mate , I'm excited to see your results! Side note , I brought all these parts last night after watching your video.😂

@@rageu I’ve gotta make the plate out of cardboard, then transfer it to some alloy. I have the pedal mounted to an alloy sheet atm, but I need to put a few bends so that the mounting holes & pedal are in the correct planes. For the pedal pinout, it’s the same as a Subaru DBW pedal.

@@fifielcoolio there’s a COM/ USB header that the usb cable plugs into. DO NOT PLUG IT INTO THE WRONG HEADER. Don’t plug it into the CAN OR expansion headers as it will kill your laptop usb ports (that happened to my old laptop).

@@MuzzKarnt so you reckon it’s that shoulder on the shaft that is the difference between tourer v torsen vs open shafts?

@@manuelchore4544 I went completely standalone. Basically the car just sends power to the aftermarket ecu, then the aftermarket ecu runs the engine. Oh check that you have the cam sensors plugged in correctly. My mate had them back to front on a stock ecu & it wouldn’t run. The front sensor plugged into the rear ones connector & the rear one, plugged into the front connector. But check that you have fuel (pump it running & injectors are firing) & you have spark. If you have both, then it’s a timing or trigger issue.

@@Fine_Performance So apparently its an immobilizer system in the ecu thats stopping the car from starting so might do an immo delete. I have the 2jz fse and Its rare in my country so getting mechanics that have worked on the car is equally hard but I love your build I'm glad you put up because I needed it

@@manuelchore4544 I don’t know a lot about immobiliser ecus tbh. What car is it? Can you just use a non immobiliser even from another car? I know Russian guys are good with that stuff. But honestly, if you can get a standalone & wire it up it’ll be worth it in the long run. When I first did my build, I would t have been able to wire it up. But after doing my wrx, I’m confident I could wire up the engine. You just have to tackle one segment at a time, ie power & grounds for the ecu, then each sensors needs one by one. Have a look at my wrx wiring videos I did a couple months ago. See if you can figure it out with some reading & YouTubing? Also GX to JZX videos might help you too.

@@Fine_Performance so the car is an LX100, I'm sort of getting help with wiring locally here in Kenya and its been really bit by bit. The car is quite rare over here and the engine is a myth at least to most mechanics here. what we've chosen to do is do an immo delete and see if we'll get it to crank. I thought of getting a stand alone ecu but id have to ship it from abroad which is a bit tedious at the moment. ill let you know if I'll need one in case you know where to source for one

@ I had parts shipped from Kenya for my car and in Australia. But yes you might have to go standalone, that is the easiest way the wiring diagrams are only in Russian and in Japanese but LX wiring is definitely different JZX.

@@vintagephantom2223 haha, thanks man. Hot tip… it was bad coil pack &/or bad coil pack connector/s (GD coils).

@@drewbis4140 hey man I was a noob too (still am). The right tools, good quality wire, ideally good quality connectors (though I used Chinese ones, they worked ok) & proper planning/ drawing up a diagram.

@@ricks_toys nah no need. Unless your engine can rev to 8500+. I just have stock springs.

@@Fine_Performance fair. Ill run mine with kelford springs and rev it just over 8k with a hks GTIII4R

@@ricks_toys yeah 7800 is about the max with a stock bottom end, without having balanced it yourself.

@@MrFatboy1094 no idea, look on amayama or megazip

@@rickysingh3958 yeah lots of people just do the filter I think. I figured I’d keep it legal/ sealed system & took the air from in front of the throttle body with an AN8 line.

@@ryanmartin8988 this is WRX EJ205 on aftermarket Autronic ecu. If you can find a link plugin, they easy to setup . Both my cars are on link & it’s to set them up.

@@asparagusman4481 yeah that’s it. Mine worked once I filled the oil sensor port.

@@MuzzKarnt no worries man, my pleasure

@@Reflect744 yeah it’s great. It worked best on my kids soarer headlights. Sitting out in the street, it still looks great. I’ve nothing else to compare it to. But it’s good enough that I’ll use this kit every time I need to restore plastic headlights.

@@Fine_Performance sweet cheers mate. Good to hear about the Soarer in the Qld heat constantly 🤙

*My car is isn't garaged either so cheers for the Soarer info

@@Reflect744 yeah my sons soarer came out amazing. His were way worse than my cresta & they came up ridiculous.

@@tonidinse1722 100% needed upgrades

@@nickrajoo9769 375HP @ 18psi

@@TrailblazingJester I’m on aftermarket ECU so I don’t really get misfire codes but yes on factory ECU you would get a misfire code i.e. a check engine light which flashes up the code for misfire. It’s usually the coil pack connectors or the Coilpacks themselves.

@@victordola8902 thanks!

@@jayparkin3849 Gday, thanks! I don’t think so. Mainly because both my turbos are already stock location & the SYMS headers would be tricky to modify to run rotated style. I could do it on the blue car, but it’s a lot of expense for not a great deal of additional performance as I’m Only going to run a 5 speed (for now) & the Blouch turbo can support enough power to destroy the 5mt. I have just got a new welder & am teaching myself to tug weld. So I could hopefully do some of the fab in the future. But it’s not really a priority atm. Plus I prefer a smaller turbo & great response, over something bigger & high horsepower.

@@Fine_Performance Just make an adapter that bolts on to the existing flange of your headers, aeroflow even sell them for around $200. How I've done all my cars and makes maintenance easy. I didn't notice much of a response difference tbh when going to a bigger garrett. Also don't doubt the 5 speeds, I've done atleast 25 launches on my 5 speeds and my gf8 runs 330kw!

@@jayparkin3849 I’d go a g series Garrett, but that’ll only give a higher HP figure. Then I’d have to make a dump, change the cooler piping, buy a gate & plumb the screamer. I wouldt run atmo screamer as I hate it on my jzx. Every time I’m into boost it just roars like crazy. I’d rather hear the turbo flowing through the cooler/ piping.

@@Fine_Performance Tbh I don't really rate the g series, road tuned heaps of cars with them on and pulsar equivalents. I don't notice any real difference in spool and response compare to a gtx or even gt series. Borgwarner efr series is the shit, done 2.5, 2.35 and 2l setups and they spool like crazy, good mates car runs a 7670 and is 30psi slightly before 4k. Easy to do a plumb back, if you're half decent at welding it isn't too much money to make a setup, pulsar wastegates are also really good and aren't too much money.

@@jayparkin3849 if I was going to do that, I would get ets or killerB headers and then just make a complete up pipe. But the way I see it the only reason you would go rotated if you wanted to run a big turbo that you can’t fit in the stock location. And yeah, I’m not really into big Turbos. I’d rather have more power sooner and have a really good driveable car rather than something that makes peak power over 120 km an hour.

@@pistonsandconrods I bought a wiring harness off a guy & just had them sitting in a fuel rail. He gave them to me for free as he no longer had the car.

@@prmarkbyggentreprenad3787 EJ20K is Sti 97-98 - shim under bucket. EJ20G is Shim over bucket. There are early EJ20G (92-96). Then there are “late” EJ20G 97-98 that are identical to EJ20K but shim over bucket, less agressive cams, smaller injectors, Different ecu & also different MAF.

@@JerryCary me neither. I ended up having my wheels blasted & repainted.

@@nicolaasvandenberg4023 thanks Nic, yeah it’s really starting to come together now!

@@najstephy5565 thank you. Yeah look you don’t have to, some people just have a little filter on there. But technically here in Australia that is illegal for emissions reasons. I get picked on by cops pretty hard so I try do things by the book as best I can. It’s basically just taking the air pre throttle plate, rather than via the atmosphere.

@@waeleldanbouky6920 apparently it’s fuel cut. You must be running more than 14psi boost or something.

@@Fine_Performance my car a stock touror V but in mint condition , actually one of the very last 1996 jzx 90 , i also feel a deceleration at 5000 RPM and above but there is nothing wrong with the engine , it is very hard to find a diagnostic pin for the car because everything is more modern

@@waeleldanbouky6920 it’s a box in the engine bay. Or an obd port under the dash or glovebox. How much boost are you running? Do you have a boost gauge? Do you have a boost controller?

@@Fine_Performance yes , 1,2

@@waeleldanbouky6920 yeah, so the factory ecu has a boost cut. It’s like 14 or 16psi. You’re prolly hitting boost cut. You either need a boost cut defender. Aftermarket ecu. Or I dunno.

@@waeleldanbouky6920 no idea man. My car is not a factory JZX90. It’s a custom build. Maybe find out what a similar issue might be for JZX100. You can also pull the codes from the diagnostic box by bridging 2 wires, but again I’m not sure how to do that as I don’t have a factory diagnostic box.

@@yomer9537 I’m not 100% sure what position the Sc300 needs. I’m doing R150 for my stepson atm & I’ve got the 150 shifter, I’ve also got a jzx100 tripod for it. But yea I have a *feeling, the JZX110 position *might be best for jzz30/sc300. But I’m not 100% sure. I did a quick google the other night & didn’t find an exact answer. Best way is to measure from the back of the motor to the shifter position.

@@Fine_Performance I couldn’t find anything either, thought I ask someone with knowledge. Thanks for the response and wish you the best in your project.

@@yomer9537 I’ll post something once I find out for sure. But I’d just ask some guys that have done manual conversion which box/ shifter combo they used & where it put the shifter? My educated guess said the jzx110. But that’s only 10mm in front of tripod / remote shifter, so we’re going with remote & maybe doglegging the lever (unless it doesn’t work).

@@technology42069 via Jesse streeter (streeter corporation - Japanese importer). Was cheaper than RHDjapan retail price with delivered.

@@damnitdang yeah you’re right, I did think about doing the exact same thing. But I just left it to see how it performed. The thing (GT3076) makes boost instantly, ie as soon as you put your foot down, it starts building boost.

@@tjhodge3562 in Australia, Just Jap. But if you’re overseas, email Jessie streeter @ streeter corporation. He is an exporter in Japan. Great on price & easy to deal with. Or look for a reseller in your country. Whereabouts are you from @tjhodge?

@Fine_Performance north carolina. In U.S. I just imported a gc8 STI. And really wanting to start putting some mods on. But alot of stuff has been discontinued.

@@tjhodge3562 these are still current.

@@ricks_toys doubt it. It’s GREDDY Exhaust manifold, custom mild steel system & dump. Centre muffler w/ kakimoto canon. The perfect setup. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGnVXoJ9qNybeMksi=Q_jYvBHMoxN5abpB

Might just be the mic, it sounds muffled and diesel like​@@Fine_Performance

@@ricks_toys yeah I listened back to it then. It doesn’t sound like that now cos we retuned the idle & the first part of the map (well my mate did, I just kept it at the right rpm). It was running super rich in the clip.

@@ricks_toys it sounds more like this now irl. My iPhone doesn’t pickup the sound as well as a proper might mic would. This has better gate sound, but I reckon the exhaust note is nicer. It’ll change again once the cams are dialed in & it’s retuned properly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3mzq5-EjMxjjdUsi=pLDWFmVOrMMDRJUC

@@Fine_Performance that's more like it, sweet Im gonna grab some when Im in Japan next month. The perfect lobe and not obnoxious

@@ika1041 I drove the car the next day. I would avoid driving in the rain, but as long as you don’t wife the headlight with a cloth, I’m sure it will be fine.