Try real testing with hot radiator in hot weather and temp gauge

you should have mentioned how depending on your wire they will stretch the insulation instead of stripping it correctly but then when you go down to the next size it cuts too deep and damages the conductors. thats my biggest frustration with them.

Solução muito simples coloca rodas e aperta que própria roda com os parafuso iram retirar esta folga 😂🎉

Yes or no? And if not, what is the solution?

New channel is coming on, @fugitivebrothers

I had to reweld the nuts for the casters because they weren't welded well enough from the factory

Nice i like that. Can you post a parts list????

Vendedor

Manufacturers CFM rating is based on free-flow, you need to calculate your radiators "Static Pressure" (basically the airflow resistance caused by the radiator fins & Rad depth). Spal actually do provide a curve graph showing cooling fan CFM performance based on Static Pressure.

I know this video is 4 years old, but this video is exactly why you don't only use YT for advice on automotive parts and procedures. What an almost useless comparison video with a lot of subjective outcomes. "Rated CFM" come on, you didn't even attempt to measure the actual CFM in a controlled environment.

Did you induce a vaccum? Is that why the fan revved higher, no atmosphere? Vaccum clogged, it sounded like to me, lol

Straight blades move more air

I like the EFI power of the 300 but I kept a 65 240 head with higher compression and small combustion chamber I could put hardened valve seats in for 87 octane and cut the valves and put on the EFI exhaust manifolds because they're poor man's headers for a 6... won't be any gain with an expensive long tube headers for inline over the EFI front and rear exhaust manifolds..252 cam.. I'd end up having the torque of the 60s but with the HP of the EFI without having to put up with the EFI head and all that crap over the valve cover. In the coldest weather my 81 F100 tired big six would start better than the injected 6's... the EFI six gets no better mileage over a carb.. the only thing that's better is the emissions with batch fire injection. IDK any 2 barrel 302 about makes that much power with the right mechanic's knowledge and about the same mileage and in the case of the EFI the 302 will get better if it's the same final drive in comparison. 16.5 with the EFI 6 and 3.55 gears just will never be as good as 18.5 with a 302 and 3.55. I'm not talking 4x4 miles..rwd miles. I had both. The big six was 1 year newer, had the 5 speed, same final drive, was ext cab XL and I could just barely squeeze out 17.3 if I drove all 55. But I can get that mileage all day just about any day with an e4od EFI 302 3.55 and sometimes 19 without AC XLT lariat. There's about 4-5% variance on energy btu production from one tank of gas to the next. So it's a little difficult to get real averages unless you drive several tanks over a lot of miles for an overall avg. And then you really just don't know because of the BTU variances but within 4-5%. I like the EFI if everything is right but I don't like to maintain them. That T30 in the center of the upper manifold is a real lulu until you figure out you need a 1/4" drive socket. Ford tough but engineered sometimes worse than a Dodge and that's not saying a lot LoL. I also kept a forged crankshaft 300. So I could put in a couple of mustang turbos if I wanted turbo on the cheap. If someone wants the skinny on the turbo it's a lot easier to use the 65-77 300HD exhaust manifold log or a set of aftermarket headers.

DM me if you want to buy a set!

For reliability I will go with SPAL ❤

Great video, I personally have had terrible luck with Spal (will never purchase again) Would liked to have seen noise level (dB)

Почему вы не показывали значения приборов в реальном времени? Предлагаете верить вам на слово? Лично я не верю вам!

.. your theory is Correct, just that it isn't Turning Tens of Thousands of RPM ..

You need a flow meter to show actual CFM flow. Air flow is the most important factor here. A proper evaluation of this would show actual CFM flow compared to advertised. Current voltage etc doesn’t mean anything.

That SPAL fan was ridiculous! I guess I’ll swap out my flex a lite for a SPAL LOL

Hi Rob, congrats on undertaking an objective rad fan comparison; however, I think you left some important variables unresolved. I was disappointed to see that you relied on the advertised CFM ratings for these two fans. This is the most critical performance parameter and you haven't actually measured it. Your 'guesstimate' of torque was meaningless. Perhaps you could have explained what you expected to learn from your pressure measurements. Were you measuring a pressure drop between the inlet and outlet sides of the radiator? Were these pressure readings both taken with the plexiglass barrier in place or removed? Further, fan performance could vary with the temperature of the air you are moving. Applying a purely practical observation from the papers flying on your bench, it appeared that the Spal was moving a lot more air.

Im having a hard time with you giving the win on CFM to the flex. Rated and actuality are two different things and are the most important and that spal moved way more air then the flex-a-lite.

Great test. 👍

Didnt show us the results you could of made it up or supporting flex lite

Most alternators can't handle the significant amp draw of electric fans

is the 1996 isuzu rodeo still for sale?

Great video mate

The ring connecting all the blades on the SPAL fan prevent the thin blades from flexing/twisting and changing the angle of attack. .

Also anemometer and a dba meter would have been nice, still, good work and thank you

Brooo you're the level I've been looking for as for testing such equipment. Trying to find that golden trifecta ratio (flow, pressure, current)

I wouldn't trust the rated CFM at all....

Hey Rob, a very good experiment... my opinion... the fans are for cooling the water... should have run some hoses connected to a car, fill up with sufficient water, bleed the system and then measure the water temperature when the fans cut in and cut off.

Good piece, but two things I can point out. 1. Both fans must be equal in all things. You have a s-curve fan and a strait blade. Very different in performance. 2. When you list the CFM, Spal is the only fan company that rates it's fans "under load". a lot of variance in the results because of these items. But very glad you did this will all the meters.

these fans... can they run silently ? suppose i dont use them for cooling radiators but for ventilation, they seem to capable of creating static pressure and S blades for quieter operation compared to straight blade fans... I am thinking of buying a 12v version, powering it with an 4amp DC adapter and expect 28watts of "not so loud operation" that can be used as a push fan . you think that might work? the cheapest i can find is 35$+shipping so help me out if that s a good idea.

🔥🔥🔥

how many amber need ??

The ring on the outside of the curved fan is for stability due to the curve shape

The straight blade flex a lite is more versatile because it ca be a pusher or a puller fan by changing the polarities of the wire so it can be placed at front or back of the radiator depending on the space while the curve blade spal is only a pusher fan.

Thank you for you very good review!

Very nice scientific test. Hard facts, not just opinion.

Hi Rob just saw your video and have to say this was one of the most practical yet ingenious methods I have ever seen. You liberality covered every possible parameter. Truly fantastic! Nice to know people like you are around the world. Cheers!

Thanks 👍🏼

Spal seems a lot louder.

Manufacturer’s CFM ratings are as trustworthy as your college dates virginity claims, trust them as far as you can throw them or until the STD test comes back.

Nice video, thanks for sharing! Not what I expected after the intro...

Sorry for the late game start on my part, but I noticed two factors that might make a difference in your choice. 1. The straight blades tend to move more air. 2. I see in the test you went with box CFM rating, sometimes you get a lower or higher rating than what the produce in real world settings. So a air speed meter might show one or the other better or worse then it’s rating. Either way I liked you testing and approach to a real world test. 😎👍

USUALLY, the straight blades will move more air but make more noise, and curved blades are designed to be quieter at the expense of airflow.

Lmao! I thought the initial plug in with the Spal was with the plexiglass installed ; I jumped straight on Amazon! 🤣

What is the amp draw of the Spal fan on startup?

so you posted what these fans were rated but not what the actual cfm they pulled. A Spal is far superior in quality and performance than a Flex-a-Lite.