@@AveRage_Joe i remember watching that video some years ago

@@ChipMIK that's pretty good. Yeah I don't think it's necessary at all either. Except to just give peace of mind about my terminals not getting stressed. Off grid garage had to add space between his cells because of swelling. Not bloating. The normal charge discharge swelling

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 Sorry, that's me not writing in native language. No bloating OR swelling here, cells looks just like they did on arrival and had absolutely 0 issues with it. (16S 3P). Do take in mind to have a good balancer as LFP cells fight to become unbalanced. I charge mine to 56V once a week and keep them up there until Vdiff has been below 2 mV for 2 minutes. Do NOT try to balance below approx. 3,45 - 3,5V ass all you will get is the balancer moving randomly around with capacity and this will completely mess up the balancing. I can recommend "Neey 4A" (4th edition or newer edition if any). Fantastic active balancer and if you got Home Assist you can control it from there through an ESP32 so you dont have to use an app on the phone or be near it to connect to it. When doing the setup you must be sure the cells in series cant touch each other as its only the film around them that makes the ground isolation. This means two batteries connected with busbars where the outer metal of them touch = short circuit.

@@motominis ya usually by the time u order them from China directly u may often get them almost a year old. Plus these are already in the states. Only took a week to show up. Great buy IMO

From where? They do swell when they charge. It's normal. The only time compression actually helps anything is the absolute very first charge. Off grid garage talks about this in great depth. Look up off grid garage compression he has a few videos. He's been running his for 4 years without compression. The only thing is he had to add more space between cells to not tug on terminals.

@@leftright4450 his video is called why you should compress your lifepo4 and why it doesn't matter Off grid garage

@@Mylotheblacknwhitecat no had I little 150 watt chain driven motor mounted underneath

@electromechanicalstuff2602 ohh mine looks identical but has a hub motor lol I want to upgrade the motor possibly to a 1000w or a gas motor but not sure with that hub motor

@Mylotheblacknwhitecat find a older style sprocket wheel

@electromechanicalstuff2602 what kind I've been looking at a wheel that is from a e200 but it says don't fit

@Mylotheblacknwhitecat e100?

@@ericzerkle8486 brahahaha. Did u even watch the video? I use it on low, the 300 is missing one of its final tubes and my radio is turned down to 4 watts so when normal talking not yelling into the mic it makes like 125-150 watts PEP going into the sb-220. Plus who cares if they burn out. Buy more. They make new ones every day.

@electromechanicalstuff2602 You sound stupid, typical cber, MORE IS BETTER, LETS SPATTER THE BAND!

@@sirmister4411 I'd never want that job.... It doesn't pay enough money. I have 1.01: 1 match on 5 different stations all with over 2,000 watts. So I'm doing something right. Have fun and remember if it says high voltage YOU should definitely give it a touch

@@RobB_VK6ES I did another video of exactly as u said. And had done it before this video without recording it. When I run cables not half wave the swr and impedance change

@@RobB_VK6ES my last video showing what u said is called tuned coax 2.0. no T just dummy load on end of coax each time. I'd love to link it but they will remove comments with links. So look 10 months back in my videos

@@deeper4cheaper128 u stalking my way old vids

@@shotgun1666 yes.

@@sizemattersoffroad9103 ya I've never had issues. Been running it for years. And I used a cheap eBay brand. Also sold several for friends. No issues I even accidentally left it on over the weekend once. No issues.

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 okay awesome, another question I have is it looks like you used 2 resistors from one leg to the other on the contact for the start caps, why is that needed and what resistors did you use?

@@sizemattersoffroad9103 it drains the start caps. They came with the caps when I bought em. Not really necessary. I'd have to check to see the value

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 oh okay thank you, what size wire are you using going to the timer and from the timer to the capacitor? 14ga?

@@sizemattersoffroad9103 timer only controls the coil on the contactor. It can be pretty small it takes less than a half amp to power to contactor coil. I may have used 14 or smaller. The contactor does all the heavy lifting to bring in and disconnect the caps from L1-L3 or L2-L3 sometimes it works better one way or the other but usually doesn't matter

@@DannyRaySmith-m4i Macon300 maybe $300 Sb220 $1,000 -$1500 condition

@@fredbrauer5429 old video I have a few but essentially I believe that's what I did in this video is cut the coax with dummy attached at desired frequency till coax had no influence on the tune

@@devaracoleman3642 is that English

@@bradleyozbun1012 then u also need to take the bad with the good. He has said if Congress had a "majority" voted to ban modern sporting rifles he'd sign it.

Hahaha. But I'm not

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 you can prove yourself wrong without cutting up any more coax by downloading a good simulator, simNEC comes to mind. Set up a length of 50 Ω coax with a 25 Ω load and a 50 Ω generator Z. Sweep the length between 0 and a bit over 0.5λ and, using the smith chart, see if the SWR changes.

100% u need a BMS lots and lots of brands JBD is the brand I'm using. Definitely need something to monitor individual cell voltages and shut down the battery from charging and discharging when maximum reached

Less than 2%

Awesome,thank you for the info😊

When I did the initial trimming it was not coiled

Where's all your educational videos? Oh u don't have any cause your not here to help the community only be a troll and criticize it. Gotcha next

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZ-5hHl7bNCCh5Isi=3xDbhi6hpKLGo5K8

thats not my video but it gets the point across

Ive been attaching coax to antennas for years as a Ham radio operator and the only time coax was needed to be tuned was for repeater filters where receive and transmit on a single antenna happens simultaneously. Tuned feedlines only work at one specific frequency where they are tuned.

When I say they only work what I meant to say is they are only Tuned at one frequency

Mep-802 is 5kw rated 6kw actual Mep-893 is 10kw rated 12kw actual. Rated at high altitude to perform. So at sea level u get a but more plus 300% starting surge

Totally agree Tom!

My antenna is perfect 1.1 at the antenna. Your multi band antenna. Is it random bands or is it specifically designed to be bands that are resonant with one another. So in two other videos of mine you watch me change nothing but the length of coax it doesn't even have an antenna it has a perfect match dummy load..... And yet the SWR, capacitance and reactance all changes depending on different lengths. Now let me ask u this. Do you or do you not own an antenna tuner? Regardless of it being external or built into the radio. It does what? It adds either inductance or capacitance to the antenna circuit to make it land on 50ohms right? Ok. Now. If you have a tube amplifier does it or does it not have an input tuning network along with an output tuning network? All my old ones do. Why? If the input tune of the amp represents the load/ antenna as far as your radio is concerned y not just have it at a set tune that is not adjustable? Everyone is going to be using 50 ohm coax between the radio and amp right. So y make it adjustable? It's so u can get the lowest SWR at your radio right? How about the output tuning network. Tune and load right? What is that doing? It's tuning the antenna network for the band you're on right? So yes when I'm running my tube amplifiers it really doesn't matter what length my coax is because the amp has input and output tuning networks to make it as close to 50 ohms as possible. Now come on over tho the CB world of transistor amplifiers..... Almost none of them have adjustable input and output tuning networks. So u can do one of two things. Open the amp and physically modify the input and output tune to match whatever random coax you are using from radio to amp and amp to antenna or the builder of the transistor amp makes every amp tuned for a null coax. I've done both. I build both transistor and tube amps for myself only. I have even added air variable capacitors to my base station transistor amps. But in mobile situations they won't survive and will get out of tune too often. So we build for null coax because that's the only thing I can make consistent. If you plug in an antenna analyzer and tune your antenna for the lowest possible SWR and it's still too high install a null coax to get it to 1.1 or better. When u install the transistor amp that is tuned for that 1.1 match it will be happy and have absolutely no reflect. DX commander I love your stuff. I'm very new to this hobby and you're a pro. I just think that sometimes we get stuck in our ways of it's always worked for me so therefore u must be wrong and it just takes a new set of eyes to ask questions and investigate issues that many people are having but many people just ignore. Yes 1.5 is good enough. But I have always been able to tune my network to 1.1 or better while pushing more power than I care to admit to. The lower the SWR the better your reception will be. That is usually more of a factor for me than loosing a few watts In reflect.

As a licensed refrigeration technician who works on 500 ton units and smaller. That coil is not that bad at all. I wash em off several times a year. That r410 unit was 2 or 3 years old at the time of this video and it is now 10+ years old and still running strong. I've since sold that house made $150k on the flip to a Friend. now living on some property in the country that has two r22 units that are about 16 years old and run great also and i have two brand new 30lb bottles of r22 i got for free 5 years ago. I'm not worried at all. Plus don't write everything in capitals. It means you're yelling.

I've had 60+ mph storms and it was ok. But we had either a micro tornado or straight line winds come through that finally took it down but it was strong enough to pull several shingles off my room and all the shingles on my neighbor's roof. It broke at the threads on the last pipe at the top.