I know this isn't related to the mirror but don't store your oral hygiene machine (water pik?) on your toilet tank. Each flush releases thousands of micro droplets which will get all over the device which you then put in your mouth. nice solution on the mirror light btw

Looking good John!

Wow ! It’s running like a scolded cat John ! Definitely a loco which would benefit from a radio control set up. It’s a double acting twin cylinder, so in theory is should self start, albeit a little jerky until the cylinders have cleared of condensate. It’s a shame those finely made winch gears couldn’t have been incorporated into the drive train, like Regner’s, but then it wouldn’t be a Porter I suppose. That way you could just set it going & sit back & enjoy your ale. Cheers !

You can’t go wrong for £15 John & a bonus that it works too, what a bargain that was 👍

Hello John, the wagon kit looks fabulous & the detail on the axle boxes is incredible, I definitely need to look into those. I shall look forward to your geared live steam Chaloner bringing up the rear of the snow plough. For the first time in my life I am actually praying for more snow ! Really enjoying your channel keep the videos coming 😀

Well that video sent me down a rabbit hole of discovery

Simple, 9 volt pp3 touching the wheels to run the motor, dremel with wire brush, clean wheels in seconds. Works on non driven wheels too without the pp3 of course.

Great fun John 😀 It’s surprising how effective the snow plough actually is, once it gets going. But you should have used the power of your Chaloner to bring up the rear, nothing gets in the way of the Regner geared locos 😀

Really helpful video! I have the 32-115B and wasn't sure how to get that pipe to detach safely but this video has got me inside. Cheers!

Lovely loco & garden railway you have there John. As you already have the water top up bottle, it’s best to top up the water little & often, i.e. only add small amounts at a time, to save from losing too much boiler pressure. I try to keep the sight glasses on my Regner locos about half way, rather than letting the water level fall too much before adding more. The Binnie skip wagons are great fun to build & run. My Regner Wilma is happy trundling round hauling 6 wagons loaded with small pieces of slate & that loco only has one cylinder. As for the couplings, if you put the link of the first wagon in the buffer slot, then drop the pin through from the top, it should be the right height & not try to lift the wagon off the track.

Fantastic!! Works really well!!

In all fairness I've just been looking Through the video but I'm more interested in the engine not the coaches.

It's not often it snows in the UK before it does in Wisconsin....

Did you tackle this? I would suggest making a thicker sleeve that just fits over the spindle and the threat and slit/slid it into two parts. Then using screws you will squeeze that part by clamping it in effect.

unnecessary hassle and looks awful you only neeed to feed every length of track with 2 wires fed by a twin bus wire under board

Gaugemaster controllers are good as long as you don't try and run a digitally fitted loco on it! 👍

I have used it for 3 weeks and it's already broken!!!!

Looks to be quieter than previous years. Thanks for sharing

Awesome set up both inside and outside. New subscriber. Looks like you folks had a grand time. Gives me ideas on what to do as I venture deeper into G Scale.

Lidl well known for selling cheap appliances and stuff like that . I remember over ten years ago , I bought a wireless mice and keyboard from Lidl , and as you may guess , only the mouse worked

On a public forum like this i am reluctant to suggest this. Someone who has the skills could probably find a way.... but for the cost it is better to scrap it and buy a complete new one with 3yr guarantee. Cheers

This is a dream of mine. Congratulations on a wonderful layout!

Welford rd all over again 😢😊

Ivor!

I have just made a locomotive using meccano parts including meccano flanges wheels It doesn't go very well and is unstable. Are meccano brass wheels any good for working trains as opposed to static?

The talanised fence timber you refer to - Would it also be known as pressure treated timber??

I struggled to remove the body on my "Tinsley Blue" variant of this Class 47 - so much so that the body split. After discussing this with a model shop when trying to source a replacement body shell, it transpires that these Class 47's are prone to "Mazak Rot" (Which I only thought affected the Hornby class 31's). Sure enough, when placing a steel ruler along the metal chassis - it's twisting badly. I'm sticking with Accurascale and Bachmann from now on!

I wanted to open one for battery conversion like lipo with phone remote. It's designed to go into space I think. Broke some tabs as well but now I know how to do it.

Should try putting one next to 4014 for comparison 😂

Been offer one that has hornby on the box would that run on g gauge?

10 years? Aha mine goes up to 11. Or whatever it is - it started running in 2012. It's a bit different to your's as it's OO and nearer the ground and there's lots of weeds and so on but like on your's the track is free resting. There's several reasons I don't attach it, the main one being that as long as there's curves along it one can forget about expansion. I can therefore solder over the rail joiners which in turn eliminates voltage drop and the need for outdoor jumper wires. Another reason is the wildlife here regularly kicks the track. Also, soldered track hums like the real thing. One can hear the trains when they're far away and out of sight which is very useful if something goes wrong.

You can preheat the thing you want to solder to 100-150*C, then 175W gun will be enough to solder it. Preheater can be: an electric preheater, a hot air soldering wand or hot air gun, or some DIY preheater (cast iron pan & sand… aluminium plate with PTC heater or power resistors attached). Or trim the legs of the tip will make it run hotter. But that might overheat gun if you’re not careful.

How is this holding up? Normally the plastic tubing becomes brittle and breaks on every other flosser I have used (waterpik) or it splits in the handle and starts leaking (waterpik)

I do remember underseal! I did use waxoil a few times but that seemed to be able to seep into the rust. Thanks for the memory!

Have a good camping trip John. Hope you dont get too much rain🤞

Your right John as long as wood is allowed to breath it can last a long time.

🤣

Well Thomas made it round. Have you thought about soldering jumper wires over the rail joints John.

Keep at it John youll get there👍

that is mad crazy

Could be a job for a hammer and chisel Im thinking🤔

Getting there John👍

I was there with 3 of my mates , slept in the car at the local school . Hell did it rain . Think it was Elton John's first festival and he was offering drinks while on stage .

How did you get that Lionel was made in America

Time has taken its toll. Doesnt matter what sort of timber. Its going to rot evetually. A lot of work to do but it'll be worth it👍

Have you considered using Ice and Water shield ? It looks like roll roofing, but is more rubber-like. It has an adhesive back that sticks oh so well to the substrate. If you put a nail through it, it heals itself around the nail. Just something to think about.

Looks like a bit of a summer rebuild, John.. how time flies! I remember your track plan video 10 years ago!

I’ve been dithering about buying a Chaloner - and am dithering no longer! Ordered. Beautiful machine and really well presented in your video. I had the same issue with my Binnie skips. Solved it by putting some lead sheet on the chassis and raising the couplings with glued on cubes of wood; a suitably industrial look has resulted!

This is going to be very interesting to see how it turns out👍

I'm amazed that it stays on the track!