No.

3000$ without camera

Yes, you can change the logo. I did load an app (Agama Car Launcher, available through the play store, $2 for the full version) that makes it pretty easy to pick logos and gives a nice customizable interface for the unit. I've used the Play Store via a hotspot on my phone and through wifi. You'll get better wifi reception if you cut back the two wires on as detailed on one of my install videos. If you won't be able to utilize a hotspot during your travels, and would like to use a map, I suggest installing Google Maps and downloading the area that you plan on traveling through. Depending on how large of an area that you select will affect the size of the download. There is a Binize support page on Facebook where people demonstrate their customizations and give you links to other apps (for example, the version of Netflix on the playstore won't work but you can sideload an older version that will.

My experience with the trim is that you have to cut it to fit. I've installed several stereos using the Metra kit; every case has required me to trim the panel to fit. It doesn't take much - You'll see a lip on the inside part of that front panel - and using a utility knife I can have one trimmed out in less than 10 minutes. It's approximately 1/8 of an inch on all 4 sides; if you're using the bigger screen, you don't even need to do that nice of a job, as the bigger screen will hide any sloppiness. If you're using the bigger screen, use a little bit of loctite on the screws. File a ramp on the backside of them once you get them installed along with the metal included with the stereo. Install the trim into place, along with your dashboard; after that, you can just 'snap' the stereo into place - It will be held pretty securely, and you can almost install a box behind it to make for a hidden stash spot.

My apologies. I just added links to the other parts I used in the video. It will be up to you as to how you connect the wires together; I soldered and used heat-shrink tubing throughout; some people use butt connectors (which I despise); you might opt for the connectors with built-in solder and shrink automatically (which I want to try but won't use until I've fully tested their durability).

@@bodhiench thanks alot ! I will use the built in solder connectors. Ive used them in other lighting connections in my f150 and so far haven't had any issues

Yes, and very much so. My boss uses his iPhone with this stereo every day.

Under Applications, you will see 'File Manager'. You'll have to navigate to your USB drive.

I'm an Android guy, but I know it does work with the newer iPhones - so it should work with your older one. I have all my music loaded on a thumb drive - and with a different version (basically the same one, but with a smaller screen) videos do play off of the USB drive just fine. This one went into the boss's truck; for liability, he didn't want anyone watching movies on the screen. My personal one in my service truck, sometimes I'm waiting for a minute, so it's nice to have something to watch.

@@bodhiench Thanks you very much. I am about to buy it.

Apologies for the delay - I used the Metra harness for the Ford (a link for the exact one I used is in one of my other install videos) though the one you pick will depend on your installation. You may need an antenna adapter as well. I do not have steering wheel controls. Again, depending on your install, you may need an adapter to utilize this function.

There are several sellers selling what appear to be the exact same radio - Though I do think there are differences in the firmware and the quality of the support you receive. ZHNN has been my absolute best experience with any customer service, period - They responded back with a link to a patch I needed to convert from KPH to MPH, and helped me with a couple of other issues VERY quickly. I can't speak about what the other brands might be like, but I have no hesitation in recommending this brand at all. It is already a great deal; there are a good amount of accessories you can get to make it better (see my video on the dash cam that connects via USB - they did a patch that turns it into a lane-departure sensor!).

Because I soldered the harness together, it was an investment of maybe a half hour or so. For the actual installation in the truck, I can be in and out in less than 20 minutes.

I've installed these stereos into Chevy and Ford Trucks - For Ford, all connections to the truck were achieved through the Metra harness, while the Chevy Silverado required one connection to an ignition hot circuit. The grounds went through the harness as well. There is a wire that can control the lights on the side, which does tie into your illumination circuit on your vehicle (If you're using the launcher that has a car icon on it, the lights on the car will come on every time you turn your lights on) - though you can turn the lights on permanently through the system interface on the stereo. I'd verify that the connections are correct. If you are in doubt about your grounds, you may want to verify the resistance between the ground on your harness and on the body... I repair cars as well, and I've learned that some other mechanics don't always connect all the grounds back up when they service other components on the vehicle - I had an F350 that worked great but die when the lights were turned on, and fixing all the grounds solved the issue. Years ago I learned for the cleanest sound to solder all connections instead of using butt connectors; I did experience a hiss once before I started soldering my connections. Sometimes you get feedback from ignition circuits that you can rectify with a torroid coil (primarily in older vehicles). If you're using an amplifier, you'll want to solder a 1.5k ohm resister between both blue/white wires - the sub can "pop" when the stereo activates it. The stereo and/or amplifier can also cause a hiss if the gain is turned up too much.

@@bodhiench wow thank you so much for all the information gives me some trouble shooting ..I really appreciate your detealied response