ya, some of my components aren't matched properly and the compression is too low. i built the engine for my nephew who is a vw neophyte so i didn't push the limits too much. i figure with a couple of not so easy mods the combo would be good for about 33 mpg.

nice. makes sense.

i'm not sure. so long ago. i do have the passenger side set up to ride lower than the driver side by one notch. i hardly ever ride with someone and i compress the suspension about a half inch so car rides level with me in it. i do know that i have the struts set to ride as high as possible while still offering some resistance to thunk. if you have thunk issues then you need to lower. you need to have some suspension rebound. no rebound and you get thunk.

i'm looking forward to seeing the build. i found a few people at thesamba that had vc vents and problems. they got rid of the vents and did just as eaallred suggested. all blowby issues disappeared. these people are few and far between though and don't push back against vc vents.

I should add the first build was my first, along with the same oil pump, cam, case, and lifters. Using new bearings, crank, pistons, jugs, and rods. The second was new bearings an oil pump and solid rocker shafts with 1.25 rockers. For the first one, I used the cam plug that it came with. Don't ever do that! The second I used that CB performance rubber coated plug. And that's the way to go, I believe now. That engine does not have one oil spot. The first build took a year to get figured out. But I do sand seal my engines, it just makes sense living in the desert and my cars are built for the environment I live in. The square back may see a dirt road but it would be a rare thing.

a year to figure out. that's about right. when i got started in the 80's i relied on a local mechanic for basics. past that, you have to learn on your own and it takes time. once i got the strokers figured out, i started pulling the top end apart about once a month. it was from that top end experimenting that i came to the conclusion that berg was bs'n about low compression and put him on my shit list way back when i was 23. quick question for you. i have a crap load of extra valve cover venting items. all the typical stuff where i provide you with my supporting arguments while simultaneously whipping on the guru of gurus who seems to be the source of some of vc venting nonsence. do it or not?

@redshirt-scotty unfortunately I've already done it to this setup. But the next time I'll try with only the catch can and run it into my intake system. What I've done here does I guess work out. But it seems like products I never needed after my catch can idea. I guess if a large enough displacement was involved, but you found information showing that to be false. So I really couldn't say. I do know I'm removing the vent holes in the vc's and seal up the box and run a line from it to the catch can next and see what that gets me. Most everyone wants to vent it to the atmosphere. I never saw an issue of some sort of emissions on my cars. The 70's and 80's cars had a lot of useless garbage on them. But re-burning what you can seems like a good idea to me. Also with my setup, having as much heat into the intake seems to work out when it's 17° out. 🤙

@@OwhyeeVdub re-burn, absolutely, you paid for those hydrocarbons. "most everyone" sure, people want to dress up their engine. the tower breathers are sort of ugly and the box breathers are out of the way. imo, zero maintenance wins.

thanks. hope things are going well with viper green

@redshirt-scotty it a slow going restoration. Can you post the dimensions of the spring in your video description? To help me and other who like to try it out.

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle i'm not completely sure what size it is but i'll post what i think it is.

​@@redshirt-scotty Thanks.

nothing wrong with using that kind of timing light just don't use the adjustment mechanism for a test like this. screws up the accuracy. sure you can bounce the inductive pickup from wire to wire. i did that when recording for all those timing vids that i've got. btw, working on the breathing vid but need a part. thought i had one in my boxes but nope. maybe late next week.

@redshirt-scotty Hey Scotty, good morning from Canada 🇨🇦 I look forward to the oil breather-box video. I always caution my Vw-friends .. just because Cip1 sells a part ... doesn't mean that you need it. As many of those components are for race type applications vs performance applications. Cheers 🍻

there's nothing special about that bolt. i'm sure that suzuki uses it in multiple models. length, diameter and thread pitch are all you need. good luck!

@redshirt-scotty It all went fine. I was able to loosen subframe bolts enough to have room to work. Got hardware from Ace, Just didn't weld the new nut...

you're talking about lube-a-lobe lifters. i've never actually seen one so the question that needs to answered is: which band does the hole attach to? i think the hole is attached to the band that is active when the valve is at half or more lift. if so - it's not effective at lubing and will allow air into the oiling system which is bad. if the other band - it is a hole in the oiling system and will have a negative effect on the lubrication system by allowing oil pressure and volume to bleed off in an uncontrolled fashion. that's a negative on both accounts. if you investigate at thesamba you will find that most engine builders don't want them for any number of reasons beyond the 2 that i've just given you.

gotta pick up wheeler peak one of these days. budget and time limited this trip.

kansas - green on one side, brown on the other

some of that must have looked familiar. go shockers.

it's the next one up. been working on it for a month or so. lots of stuff. should be a long vid.

he passed away about 2 years ago. there is no slr any more

pretty sure open doesn't matter. never paid any attention to it with mine and they've been work fine for thousands of miles.

@@redshirt-scotty Ah, thought as much. Thanks for confirming.

check out your wiring diagram at thesamba: www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php all flashing goes through the flasher box. corrosion can interrupt electricity so wiggle all the relevant connectors and fuses.

i picked up the original from my library the day after i was down there. the library didn't have lohan's. i'll dig around and find it online somewhere. tubi, hulu or something like that. later though cause it's time to go catch some fish.

it's a disney movie. i'd have to pay for a stream.

without a vacuum hose it's pretty much an 009. the vacuum canister has a lever arm that is attached to the advance mechanism. under light load the cannister can pull more advance. under load, it turns off and doesn't pull advance. once of these days i'll have to see if it works. it's ancient.

thanks kenny but that's much too simplistic. there is more going on when you vent inside the carbs than controlling oil leakage. i'm about to do a detailed look at my system and put my thoughts there. congratulation on having a well vented engine. from what i've seen, most 2332 folk have problems.

i pulled the 034 distributor out of a box last spring for use with the compufire. i have a pertronix in the 009 distributor that i had been using prior to installing the 034. i'm sure you know that 034s are svda type distributors. without the vacuum they still have mechanical advance so function like an 009 with a slightly different advance cure. all this stuff info and story is scattered here and there in prior vids somewhere. i'm planning on heading back to the park in 2 days. probably tweek the timing a bit and see if i can improve on the 28.1 mpg.

how's idaho going? i'm uploading a vid on crankcase breathing. i'm going to tell people to not vent their valve covers. in the vid, i'm going to say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. that's for you.

@@redshirt-scotty right on!!

😆

So I've purchased a 40,000-volt Pertronix epoxy coil and an accuspark electronic ignition, and I've widened my gap so far to 36. It runs just like the empi was running before my ignition system had a short behind the dash. And so far just shy of 200 miles with the new system. I chose the accuspark over the accu-fire because of the coil. The empi calls for 3.4ohm, I think it worked so well because my bosch black coil is 3.4, but the accuspark calls for a 3.0ohm coil. Time will tell on this setup, hopefully, I do not need the points in the glove box. I really appreciate the way you walk through your videos. 👍

@@OwhyeeVdub accuspark? thought that was europe brand. just looked it up. it is or at least it seems to be. pertronix ignitor style. accufire is of course empi. my accufire fried as you know. just watched a mike-fn-garage vid and i think he blew up 2 empi accufires. i've seen him fry a couple others in his some of his other vids. you went with the epoxy coil. nice it's their recommended coil for offroad. you been posting? how's the type 3 working?

@scottyc9365 Yeah accuspark is a European thing. They seem to like those and the 123 distributors. It does look like the Pertronix ignitor, so I figured it could be worth a try. I saw Mike blow those also with a blue coil. Maybe that's a thing or not. But the guy we got the Baja from was complaining about that empi ignition, he also had the blue coil on the car. I'm slowly getting the engine disassembled for the square back. It looks all original so far to me. It has dished 85 Pistons. I think I came across info on those for lowering the compression, but I'm not really sure on that one.

@@OwhyeeVdub 85.5 dish? not sure that's original. afaik, those dished pistons didn't show up until '74 after type 3 production ended. i like the dished pistons. running them on my bug. i had the crowns machined down 1.5mm so only have a small bit of the dish left. mike is blast. his vids are a source of inspiration for my vids. he says A and i then have to say B. i disagree with him endlessly but i still enjoy watching his stuff.

on my old pump, the diaphram failed. just a tiny hole. no noise.

yup it's a '73 sporty. i've known since before i purchased it nearly 42 years ago. it's my first car. the stripe was gone when i bought it but the paint was faded everywhere else so i knew it had been on there.

stock = slow

i hear ya. i didn't want to be the guinea pig on this one but couldn't find long term info on utube or thesamba. we will see.

@@redshirt-scotty Thanks for being the guinea pig on this one.

Empi parts, need work to fit right. I see nothing wrong with the video.

yup, i have a crappy camera. however, the installation isn't "crappy". the question that must now be asked is: what qualifies you to describe the install as crappy? ok, that's sort of rhetorical. i've looked at your channel content and you aren't qualified let me end with this. you appear to be female and from europe. not many females stop by so thanks for stopping by.

@@GhostHuntersFriesland dang it! thought you were one of my daughter's online gaming pals. 🤣

thanks for the support. my daughter told me to just delete this troll's comments. i'll probably do that at some later date.

with a header like this one. there is no choice but to get it lined up as best you can and then crank down the nuts until the thing warps into what is required. if it can't warp enough then it snaps. i'm pretty sure it will work out just fine.

i'd be willing to discuss further but you need to impress me first by defining what you mean by "proportional to the helix angle". the word proportional has a broad definition yet the helix gear interaction is very specific. it is that sort of word thing that bob hoover uses again and again in his writings and as i've shown in many of my vids, he didn't understand anything past the word.

if i really wanted as much pressure as i could get at the rocker/rocker shaft, i'd radius the inside the pushrod ends of the pushrod tips. what kills pressure is flow around sharp bends not flow through a smooth gallery. it's the bend inside the rocker arm that is going to get you.

have had no problems with the rev counter. i'm sidelined at the moment by a shift linkage problem.

@@redshirt-scotty thanks for the quick response Scotty , that'll save me adding back in those little coils we cut out..I thought it was interfering with my rev counter but must be something else. Cheers

@@battlight3476 i think those little coils are involved with the reduction of the needle bouncing around at the gauge. i have no problem with a bouncing needle. good luck with the repairs.

why u watching my stuff? you cheated. we already talked about this

@@redshirt-scotty that's a wild accusation, do you have any proof?

i recall an old comment of yours claiming that you don't understand anything i talk about

that's too bad. it was cloudy the days before and after for us. glad i was able to do this with my older daughter.

you didn't ditch. you were done

did you tell some of your pals to watch?

@@redshirt-scotty Technically I left 10 minutes before class ended and yeah, I got one friend to watch

yup. pretty simple concept.

more oil mods coming. spray bars in the head could be useful for spot cooling as in direct the oil at the valve to guide interfaces and more specifically the 4 exhaust valves. everyone thinks that huge amounts of heat can be generally removed by generally spewing oil into the box instead of focusing on the head's major problems. they can thank bob for that.

I'm going to suggest that the exhaust port isn't overheating, as you would expect. If anything .. the heat is a beneficial requirement. I believe the majority of the exhaust's "heat" is traded/exchanged with the Bernoulli effect (throat icing up / freezing) of the intake throats in the head, enabling a better/warmer intake vaporization. Otherwise, the intake throats in the heads would freeze over. The heat generated in the head's exhaust ports ... is required by the head's intake ports. And that heat is with great certainty... mandatory to enable and pre-heat the intake manifold, again to counter the Bernoulli effect. And for evidence that the exhaust port's are not overly heating .. just look under the valve cover ... there is no more signs of oil being burnt at the exhaust port's area than at the intake port's area. Aluminum is an amazingly fast conductor of heat. If you have ever welded on a chunk of Aluminum .. you will see .. that by the time you get to a welding temperature on one end .. the other end is almost at the exact same temperature. And I'm very certain that amazing heat conductivity is keeping the entire Aluminum head at almost one temperature, or at least as close as dam is to swearing. Maybe shoot the head after warm-up with a hand held temperature gun. There also is a case to be made, that the exhaust port is also somewhat cooled by the cool air blowing across that huge aluminium heat-sink in the heat exchangers, which are almost a part of the head, except for a couple inches of pipe. For me .. the oil is for lubrication, and as far as scavenging heat .. I'd put that on the very very low extreme, as vw never even attempted to direct any form of oil cooling in the rocker box. Evidence suggests that vw only had oil in the head for lubrication on their mind. And as far as the exhaust valve guide getting hot ... It's obviously not ever seen melting, suggesting that it's probably withing it's perfect range of operation. Worst case scenario... it's certainly an easy access and easily replaced component. If I observe anything .. the vw idling over dusty ground .. can kick up a fair bit of dust. So, the amount of air exiting the fan shroud, and blowing over the head .. is more than sufficient to cool the aluminum head's fins and sufficient to cool the exhaust contained exhaust ports. The heads are truly air cooled, and thinking the head's are oil cooled to any degree ... is just not imaginable .. when you consider the amount, speed, and force of cooling air blowing over and around the head's.. compared to the miniscule amount of oil flowing through the heads. Imho

aluminum is a rather remarkable material. keep in mind that a lot of the viewers of these vids are flying vw people. they push their engines harder than we car and bus people do. they have premature wear with their exhaust guides as a result of too much heat. they also have good ol' bob with his promises of miracle cures through hvx mods based on false physics. one other thing keep in mind that reciprocating motions like rocker arms and wrist pins can't be lubricated. the back and forth movement and high pressure prevents the formation of a fluid dynamic oil film. the oil at these places acts as a spot coolant, not a lubricant.

you do! is the owhyee basin not a hotbed of trout fishing or something like that

@scottyc9365 it's huge out here. I live next to the Strike reservoir. Being from Oregon I was kinda shocked to see all the boats here in the desert. But I soon learned the reservoirs out here are huge and many. It's not a replacement for the Pacific but it is awesome.

imho there is only one magic bullet for power and efficiency. compression. i've read some technical papers that show that coatings in the combustion chamber create hot spots within the coatings themselves causing knock. the fix is lower the compression or remove the coating. your choice. thermal barriers inside the exhaust port would perhaps work.

Just a collateral knowledge share about engine oil cooling vs air cooling. I know, this is vid about oil cooling the heads. A friend of mine has two temperature sensors, one at the front Oil pressure control valve, and one at the rear pressure relief valve. He says that while driving on the highway that he sees a 25' F temperature differential between the front and rear of the engine case. Considering that is about 1/4 of the mass of the engine case, and the bulk of the hot oil flows over that area, that would be a considerable amount of oil cooling.

Thanks Scottie, that's a great video, and I really appreciate your depth of research, on all your videos. If I have any thoughts of oil cooling the heads, I'd say it's very small, in the ratio to air cooling. The pushrod's oiling ports are small and muffled by the rocker-arm cup. While the heat from the exhaust ports and the flame propagating under maximum compression, are large in comparison. The rocker-box is not really much of an oil reservoir, giving very little time or volume for heat adsorption. I'd say that the oil in the head is primarily for lubrication. While heat picked-up by the oil in the head, is probably cooled/lost as it flows down through the 8 pushrod tubes, as they are in the path of the fan's output. So, the rocker's oil supply is probably not a major contribution to head cooling via cast off rocker oil. As far as heat build-up in the head from the exhaust flow exiting the heads via the exhaust ports, id like to suggest that the exhaust port is very short, and a very small part of the mass of the head. It's also cast as a bit of an island onto itself. Almost left to fend for itself, and is obviously very air cooled, yet still a head heat contributer. I believe the bulk of the heat in the head is a result of compression and the ignition flame propagating. At the end of the day, I personally believe that the ratio of oil flowing through the heads is very very minor to the amount and volume of heat generated in the head from compression, ignition, and the exiting exhaust gasses. Basically .. there just isn't enough oil volume flowing in the rocker-box to suggest it has any significance to cooling the heads of scavenged heat. Bob H was off by a mile, and probably why he posted no evidence of such, to back up his statement. Imho Cheers

@@thestove2407 that's a good data point. you should think about that a bit more though. homework for the two of you.

@@thestove2407 "I'd say that the oil in the head is primarily for lubrication." try door number 2 - cooling. the rocker arm interface is metal on metal contact. can't be lubricated. too much force/pressure and reciprocating rather than rotating motion. i think i mention this in one of the hvx mod vids.

absolutely! i was in a hurry. probably took 15 min total including delays for taking video.

i wish i could share a quick fix with you but i think you have some work ahead.

Indeed I do good luck

with the advent of higher strength and hardness alloys, the need for valve rotation disappeared but sadly not the white haired old fart rule of thumb. i feel i'm entitled to say that now that i'm in my 60's. so you've seen it on instructions too? mind blowing isn't it. i try not to use the monkey expression in my vids but if the shoe fits. so what brings you to the channel? what sort of ride you driving or flying or whatever?

@scottyc9365 Hi Scotty I'm a big fan of your processes, methodology, and deductions. Presently, I'm going to build my retirement engine for my beetle, doing tons of research and homework. Valve geometry on both Samba and KZbin ... godh, it looks like there is a huge number of people that are all over the map on execution. First, there has to be a step by step order to arrive at an exactly valve geometry solution. Nobody even discusses that the valve and pushrod are not parallel. So, where is this mythology "level" for the rocker-arm. V-8s have an optional trial plastic "V" template to demonstrate that angle. Valve geometry.... so at work ... I rebuilt hundreds, maybe thousands of piston and valved pieces of equipment. Even 21 cylinder compound bi-level radial air drives. 16 ceramic ringless straight line water jet pumps. Some low pressure/high volume (recovery, transport pumps) Some high pressure/low volume (for water-jet cutting of steel) And some high volume/super high pressure (robotic cleaning of paint pedestals) auto-plant paint carriers. So that last one was an inline 22-cylinder water compressor. Some pumped air, water, oil, fluids ... So, there was this huge straight line 10 cylinder air compressor, it supplied air for a factory. #8 cylinder was always giving off a lot of blow-by at the valve. During shut-down, that one cylinder's valve-guide was flagged, and needs to be re-bushed (a new valve guide) Well, no small job, as it was under a lot of huge peripheral valve train. Even pressing the shot valve guide out was a big job. Well, turns-out .... that one rocker-arm was off center. What can I say .... That Buick engineer's story was ringing in my ear during the whole job.

@@thestove2407 dang! look at all that big engine stuff. these old ac vw engines are pretty forgiving of slightly incorrect valve train geometry. i need to change the thickness of the spacer under my rocker arm shafts. when i first fired up this build, i didn't have the correct sized spacer so went with one that was a bit too thick. i think it's off by a half millimeter. if this wasn't such a mild engine, i would have fixed it by now. have you ever heard of valve rotators or seen them in those big engines? i imagine some of those engines are diesel. if the vw crowd ever discovered that rotators exist, their inclusion on these engines (bad idea as you have noted about provisions for dealing with friction of a rotating valve in a guide) would spread like a nasty virus.

definitely no chromoly pushrods below 5k rpm.