Thanks. I bought pdf plans from timberframehq.com and then re-created them in Sketchup with altered dimensions to fit my slab.

@robertmccully2792. lol.

Thanks. 12' 4"

@LouisStorms what about your hinges? Are they coated galvanized and hardware? Did you use and stainless for the cedar gate frame?

Yes to hinges. I believe I used deck screws on the frame.

That’s what I did and it’s held up well.

Will try that myself. Also how did you nail the middle of the pickets on the gate without a rail in the middle for nails?

@CM-mv6xf The diagonal braces. Used screws though. Wanted ability to remove and close gaps from board shrink if necessary. Never was.

@johnmcnamee2368. It’s called a chain mortiser. They are expensive. Check out my drill guide jig video. If a chain mortiser is out of your price range, consider using that jig for your mortises. Still lots of chisel work to clean up, but nowhere near what would be required without the auger clearing out 95% of the mortise.

Created all from scratch. So like created rectangle, then push / pull tool to create the timber. For mortise, draw mortised sized rectangle on surface of timber, push / pull tool to pull down that rectangle 4.5” down or however deep mortise needs to be. Similar exercise for tenon, except you create two “mortises” on either side of the tenon to expose the tenon. Jay Bates has good Sketchup tutorials here: kzbin.info/aero/PLoEggaYbboJEVR_uRhSO4LfiSpp41dXn_&si=Bk4BGZf_6nL5P0Rf

@@LouisStorms thanks, I’ll check that out!

Yes I had to cut 8’ pickets down to size and wasn’t happy about it. I had code restrictions limiting my fence height to 8’.

Thanks

The fireplace is an Isokern Magnum 42”. www.earthcore.com/the-magnum-series/

Sorry I don't, but there's a 3D model with dimensions at the end of the video.

Good idea. Done.

Thank you. I had the cedar for the gate frame lying around for years before I built the gate, so it was very dry. Haven't noticed it expanding or contracting at all. The pickets were all bought from HD and were wet. Used screws instead of nails in case I'd have to close the gaps later. It's been four years, and the gaps haven't become wide enough to compel me to do anything about it. Posts were also wet initially. If they have expanded or contracted, there's not been any noticeable expression.

@SteveVincent-AVENTICS Fantastic. I hope it gets the job done for you and saves you money like it did for me.

I didn’t leave any gap between pickets because expected them to shrink over time as they dried out. Galvanized steel posts are going to be awesome. Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your fence!

Sketchup

@@LouisStorms Thanks man. Have a good one!

I left the bottom of the posts unsealed. Posts sit atop a bed of gravel. But, to your point, it’s certainly possible that sealing the posts, even on just the sides, accelerates rot. But based on where my old posts rotted without sealing, right where they met the ground, I’m betting sealing the way I did makes the new posts last longer.

@@LouisStorms leaving the bottoms unsealed may help then. I could how see sealing just where water sits or splashes could do some good.

You can do it. Read video description re gate posts.