I’d imagine you would only need extended tie rods if you were cutting and welding them yourself. Other than that if you are buying a kit I would check with the maker of the kit to see if you need anything else like the tension rod or if they move the sway bar end link pickup point.

@@BIGHOUSEGARAGE thaanks mane 🙏🙏

The good ole days

Thanks for watching!

Yes

Still rebuilding it…..soon though

I mostly found it was possible through old forum posts and the different Cressida Facebook groups. there isn't really any tutorial on it, just some pictures and people saying they did it. there is a guy on instagram that recently did it @johnnie2plates

Subframe bushings are from xcessive

Thank you for the feedback!

How did I learn to work on cars?

There are bolts on the seat belt at the bottom and top. I also disconnected the box under the arm rest and it no longer functions or makes a noise when I get in and out of the car.

I’m using the s13 as that’s kinda what I was able to get. I think* the only major differences between the s13 and s14 is the 14 is about 10mm wider. The s13 is about an inch wider on each side than the cressida if I remember right. But no major different other than that in my research.

I would start with just an inspection, see if you can see a leak coming from the gasket all around or the weep hole on the pump. If either are leaking, just replace the pump and gasket. It is a cheap part that does a lot for your engine.

Hey thanks for that! I had a look, it's not the radiator hose, so must be a gasket. Looks like it's new pump time.

@@BIGHOUSEGARAGE Thanks again - I finally nailed it (after smooshing the return pipe gasket and having to order replacements).

Ok spoke too soon - coolant leaking out of upper gasket as engine cools down. 2 more tries and I think I've finally got it. My pump design differed from yours in that the studs (with the corresponding oval slots on the pump) coming from the engine were both on the right hand side rather than the top. So it seemed to more about rotating the whole thing anti-clockwise rather than lifting up for a snug fit. There you go! @@BIGHOUSEGARAGE

Yeah, it helps a ton

Yeah no dipstick on the manual. Not sure about the auto. I had to remove everything above the trans and fill to spec amount

@@BIGHOUSEGARAGE The auto has a dip stick. Use a funnel to fill it. First oil change on my 07 was at 10:30 at night, so just reached under and removed the oil pan plug. what a shock I had that the oil pan is for the transmission. The engine doesn't have one. ooops....... Was very late for work that day waiting for the kia dealer to open so I could find out what transmission fluid it needed. The 09 I will find out tomorrow when I pull the engine and trans out. Didn't have the tie rod removal tool today. Need to find out what 5 speed trans it is so I can order the axle seals. At least they lied about needing to go out the bottom with it. I can winch it out the top, just had to remove the brake master cylinder to clear the back edge of transmission.

Thanks you!

Just posted the website I used to the description

@@BIGHOUSEGARAGE thanks

Did the trans go into first fine before you had the short shifter. Could be an internal problem in the trans. My reverse was having the same problem after I rebuilt it but just changing the fluid and keeping it topped off cause mine leaks helped me. You could try the forums but sounds like a internal problem. Could be something with the clutch and throw out but you can go into other gears fine so probably not that. Hard to say.

@BIGHOUSEGARAGE I had taken it to a guy that only does trans work but typically he works on truck rebuild stuff. I asked him and he said everything was fine but the trans didn't have a shifter till I got the shortshifter. So he could have been bullshitting. I'll get it out.

Thank you! Happy you enjoyed the video!

I’m really trying to get more videos out of both the 2j and s13 subframe soon. Been a broke boy college student with no time lol

Thank you!

I’m unsure of the mileage on the plugs but they didn’t look too bad just pretty normal wear on them. Has been awhile since I did them though

I’m hoping to get to it soon just haven’t had time the last couple months. Thank you for your patience!

Thank you! Haha. Driveline took me the longest to figure out. Mk3 Supra driveshafts are just taxed and rare now I guess. Good luck on the swap man!

Thank you man! Good luck on the swap, you plan on doing a video on it?

@@BIGHOUSEGARAGE yeah definitely! Currently engine swapping a 280z, and just picked up the subframe for the 620 to stock planning and mocking things up

@@LooseFab Awesome man, can’t wait to see it!

Thank you man! The manual trans really brings these cars to life!

Yeah sorry about delay on part 2. I have been focusing on other parts of the car right now to actually getting it out on track. I will make part 2 as soon as I can, thank you for your patience!

Thanks man, good luck with the swap!

Sticking a screwdriver in the vent holes of the rotor? If that is the trick you are talking about I choose to not do that method as with higher torques you can potentially break those veins off. There is a method of taking the center cap out of the wheel and installing the wheel, then lowering the car and torquing it through the center cap hole. Brakes just work the easiest in my situation

For replacing the belts or just getting them off to get to the waterpump?

@@BIGHOUSEGARAGE for replacing 🤔

Vanlig dag i sverige😂

Bellhousing to engine bolts need to be about 3/4-inch longer

Sweet thanks man