No Car Left Behind

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@paulkaakee4051 5 күн бұрын

been there, done that, bad idea.

@NoCarLeftBehind 5 күн бұрын

Agreed. Terrible idea. I have no doubt that I'm sending this heater to an early grave. Just curious how long it will go, and what it will take to resuscitate it. How many hours did yours go?

@randysmithee 6 күн бұрын

Well done mt friend,! Dreams do come true, if you work on them hard and long enough! Your sitting in the proof of that.

@NoCarLeftBehind 5 күн бұрын

That one was waaay too much work. But I was in too deep to walk away. Hoping it's deadly consistent, and fun.

@shawnd567 6 күн бұрын

Keep us updated. I was thinking about 50/50 oil to diesel but I think what you're doing is called redneck diesel? I think it makes sense

@NoCarLeftBehind 6 күн бұрын

Will do. I'm about 13hrs in right now and it still runs fine. Thanks for watching!

@hughobrien4139 8 күн бұрын

Perfect directions. Being in the automotive machining business for over 30 years this subject has caused much grief for many people and it’s disheartening to witness when it goes south because of this simple missed step. I’ve had to leave the shop numerous times after trying to explain this over the phone. I’ve even had customers state that this is over the top and not completely necessary. The most important point you drive is making the marks permanent by cutting a groove in the balancer so that the mark can not be removed. I’ve made this mistake once by just neatly painting the proven timing mark on the dampener. A mechanic noticed the original mark that was about 15 degrees off and took it upon himself to remove the painted on mark at set timing off of the groove. To make matters worse the new remanufactured distributor ended up having extremely worn mechanical advance plates and pins allowing the timing to advance way over what it should. My light showed about 45 degrees of advance when the problem made it back to my shop. At full advance the engine was actually 60-65 degrees. The mechanic advance springs were also allowing this advance to take place at very low rpm. It made city driving a nightmare for the owner. What made it worse is that the reference mark made by positive stop was nowhere to be found. Doing this job in a fully restored vehicle made it into and overrated experience. Cranking a fully assembled engine by hand in the car up against a positive stop isn’t recommended. I literally painted myself into that corner. Learned a lesson then and there. Wasn’t like i didn’t own a milling machine and rotary table to do the job right the first time….. It makes it a huge struggle to diagnose ignition timing issues when the timing reference is not proven. It’s all a big question in this situation. Timing it by ear doesn’t work when everything is not like it should be. Nice information!

@NoCarLeftBehind 8 күн бұрын

Thank you for the kind words! Most people don't realize how much power, mileage, and drivability they are potentially leaving on the table by not knowing for sure where the timing is exactly. I've set the timing by the marks numerous times and the car ran horrible because the marks were wrong. I won't be fooled again. Thanks for watching!

@stevea6722 11 күн бұрын

Excellent. There are websites that will let you print a timing tape for your damper. Glue it on after checking the accuracy of TDC mark, and cover with satin clear. Done deal.

@NoCarLeftBehind 11 күн бұрын

That's a great idea! Thanks for watching!

@donaldshidal851 12 күн бұрын

Good info here. However it only covers the idle, while ignoring max turns on the mixture screw. Transition, air bleeds, emulsion tubes, main jets, chokes. I find I can get a more precise idle mixture with a colortune.

@NoCarLeftBehind 12 күн бұрын

All great topics for future videos. I was just touching on linkage setup and syncing. Thank you for the comment, and for watching!

@7DeuceCutty212 12 күн бұрын

Awesome. I'll try it. Curious, after setting total timing as you mentioned (36°), Do you ever find the scenario where you have no more idle speed and mixture screw adjustments left to reduce the higher RPM (to an acceptable Idle) , that you now have to retard the Mechanical timing to compensate for a ideal idle speed? I just would hate to go from 14-17°, down to 8°. Feel like id be robbing the total timing value when the VA is no longer a factor when driving around. Thanks.

@NoCarLeftBehind 12 күн бұрын

While I have never had that problem, I have heard of people that did. I would not give up timing to get the idle back down. Maybe find a way to limit the vacuum swing. Thanks for watching!

@7DeuceCutty212 12 күн бұрын

@ copy that thanks.

@craig8187 13 күн бұрын

Not as cut and dried as emission era either. Plenty pre emission cars ran ported. Plenty emission cars then ran ported until X engine temp then swith to manifold. Some ran a retard cannister during warmup, ported at normal operating temp and manifold at high temp OR with AC on. So many different scenarios.

@GullWingInnMoclips 14 күн бұрын

Nice work Eric, I hope you have a great time with that thing!

@NoCarLeftBehind 12 күн бұрын

I just hope it goes straight.

@GullWingInnMoclips 12 күн бұрын

@@NoCarLeftBehind That's what the steering wheel and the rear wheel drive are for : )

@lisadettloff 23 күн бұрын

Simply the best video on topic...way too much STUPID confrontation on topic

@NoCarLeftBehind 21 күн бұрын

Thanks for watching!

@truthboomertruthbomber5125 Ай бұрын

If you will fab up an idle speed screw on the center shaft of the linkage and then remove the 2 idle speed adjusting screws from the carbs you will then only have to adjust the length of the down rods to set the synchronization. After this mod any adjustment of the idle speed will not throw off the synchronization. Multi cylinder motorcycles have been doing it this way since the early 70s. It’s crazy that dual carb automobile setups have not copied the motorcycle technology.

@NoCarLeftBehind 29 күн бұрын

Yep, the automakers do it that way as well. My Datsun wagon is setup that way. As was my 240z that I sold. Unfortunately the cheap linkage manufacturers never got the memo. Thank you for watching and the comment!

@Mike-Olds-1 Ай бұрын

Very well done I think this ends the debate.

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Thank you for watching!

@mcdonaldm73 Ай бұрын

Good video and good explanation, thanks.

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

@dharley189 Ай бұрын

Hi Eric. I was in car repair 50 years. Seldom see many uses for fifty terminal except in two speed radiator fan apppications. Since retiring I work in mowers. See a lot of use on mowers in the safety controls used to kill engine. I have twisted that fifth spade off when not used. Also there are a lot of diodes used to protect computer controlled circuits. No need on the example you gave. I was taught “Relay uses small current switch to control High current load”. Very good video explaining the purposes. Thanks. Del

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

For sure, many more uses than what I skimmed over. Thank you for the comment and for watching! Cheers.

@lukefranklin2263 Ай бұрын

Good video. It really does depend on application. My 79 F350 has a built .30 mild cam with 4 BBL and it needs manifold for a good clean idle. The only thing I’d say is stop adjusting your idle with the idle screw. You set idle with timing. Set the transfer slot to a square on your carb and check it by using a vacuum guage on the ported vacuum port of the carb. It should always read 0. Then you can adjust idle and mixture as needed

@GullWingInnMoclips Ай бұрын

Nicely explained Eric, thanks!

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Thanks John.

@Sunspot-19 Ай бұрын

we need to consider the application. At high altitude, we typically use manifold vacuum for a stock, daily driver. Eliminate the accumulator and let's see how your A/C and heat behave!! This is always a good laugh!!

@luispina4012 Ай бұрын

👍👍

@luispina4012 Ай бұрын

Finally a good video I can understand 👍👍

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Thank you for watching!

@stevenbongiorno9277 Ай бұрын

Thanks for your help! I’ve been seeing a lot of different views on this topic. I’ve been running a fairly high performance engine for years, and I’ve always tried the trusted ported vacuum. I’ve always believed that my engines could make a bunch more horsepower. I’m starting to believe that straight manifold vacuum, could make a big difference. I’ve been setting my initial, and mechanical advance at around 36 degrees, and have always seemed to have low, low end power. That’s why this manifold vacuum thing seems like it might make more sense. Heck! I’ve even drilled holes in my primary throttle blades, to get my transfer slots in order. I realized, that drilling the plates bumped my idle up as much as changing my vacuum, from ported to manifold. I have another 750 without drilled plates, and I’m gonna give manifold vacuum a shot. My engine runs around 230 degrees in traffic, and nobody knows why. I’m talking to friends who race, have street rods, and oval track. This is definitely something that I’m gonna look into!! Thanks!

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

When I tried ported in my Z car, the temp went way up. I deleted the vac can and just run mechancal at 38 degrees now. Good luck.

@GullWingInnMoclips Ай бұрын

Nice collection!

@erichlausch9886 Ай бұрын

🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁

@keithhoughton4308 Ай бұрын

Hi, very useful video, thanks. Is fuel level critical for idling? I'm struggling to keep the engine running below 1200 revs which I think is in the transition zone. I can't see any fuel at the bottom of the idle tube. Should the jet be below the fuel level? I've got 3 45's on a straight 6 Jaguar 3.8. Thanks again.

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

The only time float level effects run ability is when it is so out of adjustment that it's either flooding or starving. The orifice that supplies fuel at idle is under the throttle blades, so you won't see anything. If you have the idle adjustment screws turned all the way out and it still idles high, I would look for vacuum leaks or check the advance springs/weights in the distributor. Good luck.

@keithhoughton4308 Ай бұрын

@NoCarLeftBehind Thanks, I'm getting there. Your advice on the linkages led me to the centre carb which wasn't closing fully. Also, I found the two chokes on 1 & 3 were out of balance using the synchronising tool. Fortunately, these 45's are fitted with the extra screws to adjust each choke independently. I'll need to keep on top of these babies!

@jamesmedina2062 Ай бұрын

Good video mate. I am trying to set my distributor back down in the hole and now my engine builder has made it to the next round so I can't ask him timing questions. On a Ford 351 should the distributor trigger be set to cylinder 1 with same cylinder at TDC or a little prior that like 10 degrees advanced? There are so many variables. I have a Mallory Unilite.

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Yes. I usually put a sharpee mark on the body with the cap on, lined up with the number 1 plug wire. Put the engine on number 1 tdc and drop the dist in. I believe on 351's, the rotor will be at 1:00. then set the timing with a light.

@jamesmedina2062 Ай бұрын

@@NoCarLeftBehind but on the balancer he painted on 0 then 10 and 20 advance and not sure where that will be when spark fires on 1 according to dist.?

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

That depends on how much swing the dist has. Is your timing mark a pointer or a scale? The timing at idle isn't as important as total advance at speed. If you have a scale timing mark, run the engine up to full advance, (3000 rpm ish) and set it at 15btdc at the 20 degree mark for a total of 35 degrees BTDC. That would be a good starting point. I also have another video on finding 36 BTDC.

@jamesmedina2062 Ай бұрын

@@NoCarLeftBehind I'm afraid that I was previously a no-nothing consumer and just went to a job so my engine guy did not teach me anything other than what oil to use. I wish I had asked him more questions but I had no reason to. I overpaid a racer guy to get the thing running. When my water turned slightly acidic corrosion started taking over front timing cover and seeping, so I took the balancer off and cleaned all things there, then applied fresh paint where he had left 3 marks that seem about 10 degrees from one another. I just replaced the wires and primed the engine, replaced oil pan and pickup so nothing is as it was.

@jamesmedina2062 Ай бұрын

@@NoCarLeftBehind I wish that I had taken meticulous notes and taken pictures but i didn't

@christophercotter4542 Ай бұрын

Thanks for showing me the differance

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Thank you for watching!

@paulmuff9883 2 ай бұрын

Dear Sir I’m still left confused 😕 as I’m going to fit a vacuum distributor to my 1938 side valve 4 cylinder car because at the moment it doesn’t have one only the bob weight , now the carb has a ported take off type blank on it so I could fit to either manifold or port and looking on you tube has only confused me even more 😢 what would your advice be please?

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

While I'm not well versed in side valve/ flat head engines, as long as you are careful with the timing, you should be able to try both methods and see which it seems to like better. It might not want any more than just the mechanical advance. Most of that era would have a hard line threaded into the source. Good luck.

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

After some thought I have some questions. Did the car come originally with the vac can and was removed at some point? It's probably more of a city/country road car than interstate car? Do you know where the total advance should be or the initial advance only? I'm thinking since it is probably a low RPM engine, it might benefit from ported. But if you know its total advance happy spot, and have a timing light that has advance capability, you could run no vac can and once set at the correct total advance it would give it more initial which might give it lower under hood temps. If you know its total advance happy place you can try any combo.

@paulmuff9883 Ай бұрын

⁠ hi & thanks for your reply, these were a low end/ cheap cars and the engine was of a very early 1930 designs low revving long stroke engine of 1,100 cc and they never had a vacuum fitted like the more expensive models like MG or Triumph cars of the same period, the type of distributor I’ve acquired is the type that turns the whole distributor as the base plate inside are fixed, it’s a 40 bhp engine 😅

@BrianBoyet 2 ай бұрын

Very well described! Thank you!

@NoCarLeftBehind Ай бұрын

Thank you for watching.

@kloeppky6613 2 ай бұрын

One of the best explanations regarding this debate I have seen. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and perspective.

@NoCarLeftBehind 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for the comment and support!

@RobertBille-f6n 2 ай бұрын

Really good info

@NoCarLeftBehind 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for watching.

@nathanaelvanwyk3874 2 ай бұрын

great learning curve for me that only started 2weeks ago with my twin dellortos 40s fitted myself tuned it my self not running 100% but im getting there as im learning by watching videos havent got that type of money to send it away for a proper tune but im learning and teaching myself how to tune it and to get it up and running 100% thanks again for your content was very helpfull to me as a young teenager 22years💯🤝running it on mk3 jetta 1.6carb

@NoCarLeftBehind 2 ай бұрын

Glad to hear it helped. Congrats on getting it up and running. Keep at it. Thank you for your support.

@jarmominkkinen9409 2 ай бұрын

I dont hear no wath The fjeul pressor you have? I Have Dellorto Carborators 48mm Chevy 356cui.3psi are The max. I run real Street Corvette car 1992 10 sek car 210kmt near..1600kg car No no transbrake!! Even Weely inte start.Yes thes are trou.Still havThe Corvette build 1995-96 Twin Turbo Efi Vems. But match Trouble hope I can come out 2025.

@NoCarLeftBehind 2 ай бұрын

My fuel pressure is at about 3 1/4 psi. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.

@eddiecruz5591 2 ай бұрын

That a cool dragster! Datsun powerd! I have built lots of Datsun engines over the years! Great little engines, really good information.

@NoCarLeftBehind 2 ай бұрын

It's hard to beat an L series Datsun! Thanks for watching.

@gravewalker8723 2 ай бұрын

great vid, ran a pair of 45,s on my old mk2 lotus Cortina ,and 50,s on a old mk3 ford Capri ( uk) , great carbs always gave great power and sound

@NoCarLeftBehind 2 ай бұрын

Nothing beats that sound! Thanks for watching.

@bens8696 3 ай бұрын

Very cool! I’m surprised you chose to cut the frame vs modifying the header. I’m sure there was a reason though… 😁 rare unicorn header. Just kidding but very cool project!