@@stephenmcbride8859 It's usually best to go with the OEM plugs, whatever plugs the manufacturer specifies. Don't over-tighten or under-tighten them. And make sure it's the correct plug, and that they're gapped properly. Most plugs come pre-gapped, but aren't always gapped correctly.

@@DuanesDiagnostics how to I know how to gap them properly??

@@stephenmcbride8859 It sometimes tells you the spark plug part# and gap in the vehicle owner's manual......or would guess the part's stores could tell you......or a Google search, or repair manual or online repair info for your vehicle.

@@philh9238 You were dead on right. It was the steering angle sensor. You must've encountered that problem before......but that's exactly what it was......it was shorting the CAN lines, and causing a No Comm, and all kinds of lights & bogus codes........Thanks man for your input.......was pretty crazy to me......but that's what it was.....that sensor.......I made a couple more videos about diagging it today......and mentioned you in one of the videos.

@@philh9238 I honestly don't get alot of work, or many jobs that require using a scope, but will try to make some more scope videos if I can remember to. That's all I have is the cheap Pico non-auto 2 channel, a Uscope 1 channel, and a cheap hundred dollar Hantek 8 channel that I rarely use. I mostly use the Pico and it seems to get me by for most stuff. I'm still pretty much a beginner level scope user, and the cheap 2 channel Pico is definitely worth the money, but would definitely like to upgrade to at least a 4 channel Pico.....someday..... Honestly, so far, for me, Relative Compression testing seems to be what I've used the scope for the most overall, but hopefully I'll get some more electrical problem vehicles soon to make some more scope related videos.

@@philh9238 You can also download the Pico software and use it in 'demo' version on a laptop without actually having a scope. That's what I did before ever buying my scope. It's a good way to get familiar with the software, and all the buttons, and functions, etc........without actually having a scope.

@@trippharris1144 If people around here only knew about me........ Eventually they will.

Thank you. And thanks for watching.

That scope is actually pretty cheap, but Pico is a good brand.....think I got it for about $150 to $180 or so a few years ago.......and it isn't really intended for automotive use, but it works for most automotive stuff.......is kind of a beginner level scope.....and pretty easy to use with a laptop, and the Pico software......if you're already fairly somewhat computer savvy, and know basic electrical fundamentals......much like using a voltmeter, but it draws you a picture......which is much more helpful for diagnostic purposes......but for most scope testing you also need specific test leads, probes, adapters, or accessories depending on what you're testing.......which can get much more expensive, but is well worth it if you have a passion for diagnosing problems accurately. If you want to learn more about using a scope or doing automotive diagnostic work......I would say to check out a KZbin channel called Scanner Danner........his name is actually Paul Danner.......but he is and has been one of the best in the business for many years......many mechanics & techs learn diag from him.....including me.....if it weren't for him I might not even do diag work and might not have ever bought or learned how to use a scope.

There's also a bunch of other good diag guys and KZbin channels out there if you want to learn scope or diag stuff.......guys that make me look like an idiot.......but just to name a few........ South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, Super Mario's Diagnostics, L1 Automotive Training, Royalty Auto Service, Diagnose Dan.......that's just to name a few......but there's a bunch of them out there.......I would suggest checking them all out.

You doing great, keep working hard on your video.thank you again for your information I will look into that.

@@user-md3mh8cm1m Thanks for the positive comments and encouragement.....if you check out those other channels, you will probably Love them......and learn much, much, much more.....the world of auto repair and diagnosis is pretty much never ending, depending on what you're willing to invest into it, and how far you wanna go......and learning to use a scope is a huge game changer in the world of diagnostics/diagnosis.

Nah....it runs fine.....I use it multiple hours every week when the grass and weeds are growing......sometimes about 10 to 15 hours a week......so that's actually a normal, good waveform.

@@DuanesDiagnostics i was just saying the scope would work well looking for one of those problems, but your echo runs well.

@@jongonegone1262 Yeah....looks like the scope would work just as well in helping to diagnose problems on 2 cycle engines as it would on 4 cycle engines.......in the right hands of someone that knows how to use the scope and analyze the waveforms.......but that's actually a very small percentage in the automotive world......and even less, if anyone in the small engine world......

Dang that sucks!.....especially after a month, and you probably thinking it was all good.....then starts to leak a month later...... If it was gonna leak at all, I'd rather have it leak from the very beginning, just so I would know, rather than find out a month later it's junk.....especially if it was a customer vehicle. Seems like it's almost 50/50 on alot of new parts nowdays.....that you might get a decent one or one that actually works, or works right.

@@DuanesDiagnostics on my application Honda 3.5 V6 I see on Amazon ( got mine from rockauto)others have a leak in the same exact place , seems like it's a manufacturing flaw. Should have sprung for the OEM Honda DENSO.

@@CRAPO2011 I've had the same problem lately with other parts not manufactured or machined correctly, even an OEM part......and have heard from other mechanics/techs it's a very common problem nowdays......one guy said he had to install like 6 or 8 alternators before finally getting one that worked right.....and I believe he was a tech at a dealership. Seems like there's just no quality control in alot of the parts manufacturing....but the odds are still definitely better with buying OEM.

@@DuanesDiagnostics wow 6-8 alternators damn .DENSO was my go to brand as I have various replacement components from them, first time I've been burned by DENSO👎.have heard good things about Spectra Premium radiators for my application didn't know they are manufactured in USA.

@@DuanesDiagnostics I've heard of Ford and Stellantis OEM parts being faulty out of the box. Hondas worse OEM replacement was those 4speed transmissions from the early 2000s some didn't make it to 5k.

Yeah, honestly I was thinking the same thing myself.....I think it might still work in some of the other modes.....but I never tried using it again since it fried.....but am curious about that......will probably eventually try it.....can't really hurt it any worse...lol. If nothing else, I figured I'd keep it for parts and the circuit board and internals. Eventually I want to learn how to solder and desolder circuit board parts and learn more circuit board level testing & stuff......but I'm a long way off from that, but figured it'd be good to keep for parts to practice that kind of stuff on when or if I ever get around to it.

@@DuanesDiagnostics on the black one that I have that Jack is just connected through a shunt a thick piece of wire and there are sense lines on either side that go to the circuit for monitoring. So if they stuck to the same design method theoretically all the other modes should work unless it took out a trace on the circuitboard between something. The best part if it still works you won’t be make that mistake again as it will be physically impossible.

@@imark7777777 Yeah I remember seeing a thicker piece of wire on mine near the ports.....guessing that might be a shunt.....will have to take a closer look at it.....but yeah, I won't be able to make the same mistake again with that meter.

Yeah I never even thought about that.....about being able to hook it up wrong on AC line voltage......probably could smoke the meter alot quicker that way.....but good your power strip had the built in circuit breaker, and it actually worked.

Would pretty much agree, it's a bad meter design......but also honestly, the bad design has also 'saved' me in the past, where I went to check battery voltage, but didn't realize the positive lead was still in the amps port from previous testing I'd done, so when I touched the leads to the battery posts momentarily, I just got a 'spark', but no blown fuse, or melted meter, so that design has 'saved' me in the past, but not this time. From what I've heard from automotive instructors, alot of meters are internally fuse protected......but not this particular meter......it does say 'UNFUSED' on it......right below the amps port. Not really sure why some meters would be fuse protected, and some not......but seems like an intentional bad design to me to eventually sell more meters......but maybe not.....I could be wrong.

@@DuanesDiagnostics Yeah it's annoying the first time it happens and you don't have any 10A fuses and have to wait to get them before you do the testing. Now have a pack of 10 just in case. However, also then bought a digital clamp meter [UT210E] (does up to 100A DC and no direct connection to the circuit so nothing to blow up - newer ones do even higher currents now) for doing high current testing so don't use the normal meter in the Amps socket.

@@johnr3435 Yeah I have a few different amp clamp type meters, but they're not always accurate or reliable for measuring in the low milliamps range......which is alot of what I need to measure......checking battery drains/parasitic draws, etc........sometimes the regular non-clamp meter with a direct connection to the battery is much more accurate for doing tests like that.......in my opinion.....at least based on my tools and experience. But I do have a clamp type meter that was pretty accurate for the low milliamp range, but it started not working right about a month ago or so.......I also have amp clamps that hook up to scopes......are highly accurate.....but also not quick and easy to setup or use...... That meter I fried was pretty accurate on the low milliamps setting......and so was the clamp type meter I had been using.......up until about a month ago or so.......but most likely I'll just end up buying new meters of both types......I like having both just to be able to compare their readings to each other......and also like having multiple ways to test stuff......or backups......but also think that's better to prove a 'diagnosis'......if multiple tools are showing the same thing and the same readings.

@@DuanesDiagnostics Yes, you are right not accurate/reliable on DC for low miliamps - constant need to zero out. I'd be interested to know which clamp meters you found to be accurate for curent.

@@johnr3435 This is the stand alone amp clamp I had been using.......it was pretty accurate, had it about 4 or 5 years......but it started not working right about a month or so ago.... www.aeswave.com/True-RMS-Low-Curr-Clamp-p9214.html The only other low amp clamps I have are for using with scopes. But if you check out AESWAVE they have all kinds of cool tools and different types of amp clamps too.

That's definitely a smart idea to switch to the 20 volt DC setting after doing an amp reading, and before putting the meter away. From what I've seen, it seems like the amps function on most of those types of meters is usually rated at 10 amps, but might be higher on a Fluke or different type of meter, but was only 10 on that meter I fried, so I wouldn't want to go above that, but would definitely be much cheaper to replace a fuse than the whole meter........seems like on meters like those that aren't fuse protected on the amps function......that's almost engineered to fail....to sell more meters......because almost anyone that uses a meter and uses the amps function.....is going to eventually forget or not pay attention to where their leads are at......and make the same mistake I made......then BOOM!!....meltdown....and you gotta buy another meter....instead of just replacing a fuse.

Yeah, a little scary it got that hot, enough to melt down the meter leads and ports, but didn't really seem to affect the trailer wiring at all.......I guess it's got some kind of shunt or resistor built into it that absorbs the heat from the amp draw......somewhat like a heatsink or circuit breaker that doesn't actually break the circuit until the meter actually melts down.......that seems like kind of a stupid design.......if it was fuse protected, that wouldn't have happened.......but I guess they sell more meters that way, without it being fuse protected.

@@DuanesDiagnostics There's stacks of meter reviews here on youtube, I'm an electrician by trade so it's pretty critical I have those safety features and ones suited for the work I do. There's even half decent portable oscilloscopes/dmm combos that are cheap thanks to China these day! Owon & Hantek would be great for your type of work IMHO. Happy fault finding 😉

@@TradieTrev Thanks. That's cool, my dad was an electrician, and my nephew is too. Not sure if it's in the gene's or not, but I've always liked learning the electrical & electrical troubleshooting stuff, but really like just troubleshooting/diagnosing stuff in general. I have a 2 channel Pico scope, and a single channel U-scope, but have been wanting to get one of those 2 channel portable type scopes because they would be quicker and easier to use and setup than my Pico, and would be one more channel than my U-scope. I have an 8 channel Hantek, a cheap'O hundred dollar one, but isn't the portable/stand alone type, it requires using my laptop and the Hantek software......and it's kind of junk, but somewhat useful for some stuff or just to practice with, but can't really expect much out of it for a 100 bucks.......but will probably still look into one of their 2 channel portable type scopes, or the Owon/Owan.

I got some tools that give instructions or data in Chinese/English......think they call it Chinglish.

Uhhhh.......I checked out a few of your videos on your channel.......and you didn't speak in any of them......Is there a reason for that?.....and yet why you are trying to criticize how I speak in my videos?.........uhhhhh......that seems very hypocritical and very shallow. But uhhhh....just saying.....for gowdsake.

That's VERY, VERY, VERY Good!!!!....only blowing one fuse in 35 years......I would guess after blowing the first one, you probably learned that lesson......it's a bit of an inconvenience, especially if you don't have extra fuses on hand, and have to try to find or order some, or it's maybe your only meter, or main 'go to' meter. On my meter, that DC AMP circuit wasn't fuse protected......otherwise I would've blown the fuse years ago, if it had one......because I've definitely hooked it up 'wrong' before in the past, going to check voltage, but not realizing I still had the positive lead in the Amps port......but I guess that meter uses some type of shunt/resistor to protect the meter up to a certain level......which I guess could be good or bad depending on how you look at it........if mine was fuse protected......it would've just blown the fuse by hooking it up 'wrong'....and not fried the meter.......so seems like fuse protected would be the better way to go......when or if I buy another one I might just add an inline fuse on the positive lead, just for the extra protection, to not fry the meter, just in case.

Yeah we have alot of ants around here. And I've been doing alot of weed pulling, weed-whacking, yardwork around here lately.....so got a couple bites.

When I first got that meter I didn't really like it all that much......probably alot just because I was use to using my older meter.....me personally, I also don't really like the auto-ranging function, and really wasn't sure if that meter was very accurate or not........but I tested and compared it to all my other meters and it's pretty accurate.....and has most functions you need to have.....so after years of using it.... it kind of grew on me....and became one of my main 'go to' meters...... I would definitely buy another one.

Yeah, it's pretty easy to do....especially for me because I'm always testing different stuff and switching back and forth between different meters, and running jumper wires and probes and stuff......so sometimes just grab a meter and hook it up without really paying attention to what ports the leads are in......I've caught myself on it quite a few times before in the past, but not this time.

Lol......I wish it was my cheap'O meter that I fried instead of the other one, but the cheap'O meter is still going strong. I actually bought the cheap'O meter years ago for being able to measure residential type AC voltage on outlets and switches and wiring and stuff around the house.......it's been pretty handy for that kind of stuff......I don't use it all that much for automotive type work but keep it for more of a backup meter and sometimes use it just to compare readings with my other meter's.....but also before I got that other meter I fried.....the cheap'O one was the only one I had that would measure low amps......so I use to use it for measuring battery drains/parasitic draw at one time.

Yeah, having to buy a new meter should definitely make me remember. Sometimes it's best to learn things the hard way.

Lol....yeah with a clamp meter you'll never forget......I do use the clamp type meters also quite a bit.....sometimes I use both just to compare the readings..... and sometimes like to use the regular meter for measuring battery drains/parasitic draw....... Actually my main clamp meter that I normally use started not working right over a month ago......and of course only on the milliamps function which is what I normally use it for the most....... so am gonna have to buy a new one of those too.

@@DuanesDiagnostics smh that's messed up understandable situation

@@milsim4796 Yeah, seems like it's always something.....always more tools to buy.

It definitely does seem like a Rite of Passage. I got one of the 2 hole kind, but mine don't have an amp function, but can definitely see where that might be a problem if it did. That's the first meter I fried so far in over 20 years, so not too bad, but still sucks to lose one of my tools, and know I'm the guy that accidentally killed it....but I know it's a pretty common mistake that happens alot.

Luckily it wasn't a very expensive meter, so wasn't much financial loss.....but still sucks because I had that meter about 15 years and was one of main 'go to' meters.....but I probably needed to upgrade anyway.

The purge solenoid does stay closed until it's commanded open by the ECM/PCM based on various sensor inputs and programming, but in this case, the valve was leaking, basically staying open/not staying fully closed when it should have been.

@@DuanesDiagnostics ah ok thanks. I think my fuel pressure sensor is bad on my 2011 sierra. That would be the third GM with evap issues and it ends up being that. Not many people talk about the pressure sensor on the fuel pump housing and I didn't even know it existed at first. My vent valve and purge valve both work as expected and there's no cracks or restrictions in the charcoal canister. Gas cap is good and sealed but I will get the tighten gas cap message sometimes as well as a EVAP large leak detected. It started out as a small leak that popped up maybe once a month.

@@KGrasso89 That's kinda crazy to have 3 GM's with bad fuel pressure sensors, but also not so crazy......from what I heard from another KZbin mechanic, those sensors are pretty common for going bad on alot of GM vehicles. I worked on a neighbors truck several years ago, an '06 to '08 Silverado, that was also throwing intermittent EVAP codes, and I can't remember if I ever finished totally diagnosing it 100% for sure, but seems like I had it narrowed down to either a wiring/connector problem to the pump, or a bad fuel pressure sensor.......seems like I was getting different readings on my voltmeter and scantool, and conflicting repair info......but think the problem was most likely the fuel pressure sensor......but he also had a code for the fuel level/sending unit circuit I believe....... I remember it was kind of a headache to try to figure out, and not sure if I ever did actually finish diagnosing it 100% for sure as a bad fuel pressure sensor.....but seems like that's what it was pointing to as best as I can remember.......but that was at least 4 or 5 years ago, and he ended up losing the truck not too long after that......so never got to finish diagnosing and fixing it.

A compression problem requires compression testing......there is no way around that......to be diagnosed accurately.......almost all problems require some form of mechanical or electrical testing to be diagnosed accurately.......that's what gauges and diagnostic tools are made for......to be able to show and prove the problem with standardized test equipment and procedures......not just a mechanic's ear.

@@DuanesDiagnostics You missed my point. Something occurred that caused you to suspect maybe a weak cylinder, so you decided to, rather than do a proper compression test, to do a "relative" compression test. The results of your test indicated a weak cylinder, which was the reason you did the test in the first place. Doing that crap with the laptop was a mere waste of time. What should have occurred is you heard the starter wavering, then did a compression test. You use your senses to obtain clues, then you use your tools to confirm and repair it. All your relative test did was tell you that you correctly heard a compression issue while cranking, which you still need to quantify anyway. In every case, your compression should be accurately measured if it is even the least bit suspect. The test is also useless in the sense that a confident repair cannot be initiated based on the results it provides. Hence my comment.

@@DuanesDiagnostics Actually though, a cylinder leakdown test will give up the best information over static compression testing, except it is a more expensive tool and you need shop air to use it.

@@btasler I understand, and would agree and disagree. You definitely have to use your senses, instinct, knowledge, experience, and all available or necessary info, but also generally have to have some kind of evidence, photos, videos, test results to show to the customer/client, that confirms the diagnosis. In this case, I was just helping out my neighbor, and the shop he had been to previously I believe just told him he had low compression on cylinder 1, but gave him no actual proof or test results, but also said another shop showed him misfires on a scantool on #1 & #4.....the relative compression test was visual proof for both of us that the number 1 cylinder was totally dead, so in this case there would be no need to pull the coil or a plug and measure actual compression, it's a dead cylinder........and the relative compression test was the quicker, easier way to go, and visual proof that the #1 cylinder was dead. Definitely in other cases measuring actual compression might be necessary, and the relative compression test might not be sufficient, or other testing might be necessary, but to me, is the quicker, easier, smarter way to go at least as a first step......that's the second engine I've used it on that it quickly showed a dead cylinder, without me having to pull any parts or hook up an actual compression gauge, and have also used it to diagnose low compression due to timing problems, again....without me having to pull any parts, or hook up a compression gauge, or manually check timing.......it's actually a very quick, easy, useful, versatile test method. Actually in this neighbors case, he had already been to at least 2 reputable shops, and had replaced the throttle body, some plugs, a coil, and an injector.......also his radiator......which obviously didn't fix his truck.......and he could've avoided all that.......if either of those shops really knew how to diagnose.......and just did a relative compression test first.

@@btasler I was actually going to buy a HF leak down tester the other day, to help pinpoint diagnose the neighbor's truck, but decided not to buy it because I don't regularly deal with alot of compression/internal engine related problems......but also thought we might get lucky on his truck and just find broken valve springs, because those are pretty common on those engines, but so are bad camshafts & lifters, and based on that and the mileage, and the noise his engine was making, and the dead cylinder........I figured there was really no need to buy a leak down tester......because if it didn't have broken valve springs, then the engine would basically need to be rebuilt or replaced anyway.....so was really no need for me to buy a leak down tester. It might've helped pinpoint diagnose it, and I definitely would've liked to know where it was losing compression on that #1 cylinder.......but either way, the engine still basically needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Lol...I wouldn't doubt some of their employees come from McDonalds. Not sure how you came up with the Forest Gump analogy, but thanks for watching and commenting.

I believe the problem is fixed, but need to test drive it to confirm......it was actually a combination of multiple things, multiple problems over time that added up.....causing the ABS system to not work right and trigger the light, but believe it is fixed now.