Fair point. This little yellow pump's rear foot was loose, which made it unstable, hence the difficulty you witnessed in operating it at maximum capacity. I have since made sure that the rear foot is tight, which makes a huge difference in stability, and rather use these little yellow pumps over the larger green two stage pump. The yellow pump requires less effort to use at higher pressures. It is a little slower though, but it is offered as an entry level pump option. With regards to the hydraulic line blowing, I haven't had one blow yet, and we have many of these pumps in operation for at least 6 years now. Yes, there are better hoses available, and they cost more than this pump and hose combined. But again, this pump is offered as a budget and entry level pump. The Cejn fitting I use costs more than the pump and hose. I'd rather use an air/hydraulic, electric or even a battery-operated pump, but this video was more about showing a worst case scenario.

You are right. It wasn't my engine. So I shouldn't have assumed that the oil was drained, and it wouldn't leak. Wiser in hindsight.

Why do you ask?

​@@mechanicsmateauI wanted to buy one for an existing engine stand I have and want to compare the thickness to the plate that is on it now.

@@TTGTO288 send me an enquiry through our website with the engine you would like to mount and I'll get back to you.

Thanks. I appreciate that. Yes, we could. I would need to know where the slots/holes are in your existing engine stands mounting plate. Either that, or you could give me the width and height of your existing mounting plate, and if you are comfortable in drilling holes in the existing plate, then, I could provide something that would fit. You can send us an enquiry through our website mechanicsmate.com.au

That's great. Approximately AUD$100, and it would only take me 2 minutes to do, which equals AUD$3,000/hr, or in your money 1,500/hr. I would only need to work 1 day/week. But I get it. If you are only doing the job every now and again. People also don't factor in the time it takes to drop the job off and then pick it up again, so let's say 5 minutes there, 5 minutes to do the job, and 5 minutes back, that is now 15 minutes for a 2 minute job. In a workshop environment, the $$$ start to add up quickly.

@@mechanicsmateau oh I’ve taken off the cv axle and the hub and am getting a lift to the shop and I’m still quite happy as I’ve been struggling with this for a loooong time as I’m a Diy’er and I am so over buying tools to do this!

@@hemtet5500 I thought you might be a DIYer. It is amazing how many shops continue to struggle with a job like this. When you get it back, check for damage on the end of the shaft and the hub assembly. You would be surprised what some people do to get these out. I hope the rest of the job goes well for you.

@@mechanicsmateau thanks for the support

I'm not sure what you mean by rotating the engine with a steering box. We use an industrial gearbox for rotation with a cordless drill.

Fair enough. This is normally done in vehicle, so it is quite different. Where we can, we would normally use an air operated hydraulic pump. This hand pump is our entry level option. It is also one of the most portable options.

The outer ring is fixed to the centre boss. I'm not sure how the outer ring can shift to alter the timing mark position. I would be looking for damage, or check your timing measurements.

why would I use a pickle fork or a traditional pulling tool when I can use this tool and get the job done a whole lot faster and easier?

@@mechanicsmateau thats on a bench …anything is easier when your’e standing up and you have all that room to apply that tool…how would you go under the car on your back with just basic tools

It' can be extremely difficult with basic tools, even on a bench. This is why we have developed the option to use hydraulics to do the job. And yes, I have done it on my box truck using our hydraulic puller. Guess what......it was easy.

Should do. What year model? If you can send a enquiry through our website it will be easier to communicate. www.mechanicsmate.com.au

send and enquiry through our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au

Frank, send us an enquiry through our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au

Yes. You can use the 10T hydraulic cylinder used in the video to install it, if it is tight. The force required to assemble and disassemble these dampers isn't really much. You could even try standing on it. I used the arbor press in the video as it is much faster and easier than using the cylinder because the forces are so low.

Thanks Peter

Thanks. We did try to address all the issues around heavier engines.

Thanks, and yes it does flex a little. The same thing airplane wings do. The flexing also stops it from falling off when the pitman arm breaks free. It's a nice little bonus.

go to our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au and send an enquiry

go to our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au and send an enquiry

The cylinder (ram) we use in the video is about 175mm long. We can use our 10T cylinder which is only 125mm long. It all depends on the vehicle at to the amount of clearance available. It will fit in some and maybe not others.

Thanks Jeremy

Send an inquiry through our website with what you want to do, where you are, and let's see. It is Christmas time after all.

go to our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au and send an enquiry

Often the hardest part of the job is to push the driveshaft out of the hub. In this video we are showing how this can be done a lot easier with our puller. The first part is pretty easy and after you get the driveshaft out of the hub, it is just a matter of pulling it out of the gearbox, which comes out easily. Sorry if you were expecting to see the whole job from start to finish. There are plenty of KZbin videos showing this process. You will also see on these videos the problems they can have pushing the driveshaft out of the hub.

It may help in some instances, but when they are tight, I have found it makes little or no difference, as it just gets pushed off. What I find does help when I am doing lots at shows, etc, is to scratch the surface up a little with some scotchbright, which helps stop the galling. I've had this happen on the power steering pump pulley, and it doesn't end well. But, I did have it on and off several hundred times before it became an issue. By the way, on the power steering pump pulley, I am at about 3.5T (metric) pulling the pulleys off before I scratch them up a little, which will take me down maybe 10% at most.

Thanks Peter

@@mechanicsmateau you have a realy good product ! ! Lot thought gone in to it !! You make it so easy in your ! Presentation !! In other "words" bloody good mate!!

@@peterhatch1583 thanks again mate. We will keep in touch.

@@mechanicsmateau your more than welcome

Peter, can you send an inquiry through our website please. www.mechanicsmate.com.au

send us an inquiry through our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au and we will get back to you.

Agreed. Your job would be to figure out how to use it to help her out :-)

There is no hydraulic throttle control. We use 10,000psi (700bar) hydraulic cylinders and pumps. In this video we first used a 12T cylinder with 1.65"(42mm) stroke, then changed it to a 25T cylinder with 2"(50mm) stroke, and an electric pump. The pump has a solenoid valve to change from pressure to the cylinder (when the pump is running) to dump (return to the tank). The pump is operated through a foot control (switch). We loosen the nut holding the pitman arm on, and leave it just below the end of the thread of the shaft. This is done so that the pitman arm, hydraulic cylinder and attachment don't go flying across the room when it breaks free. When it takes 15T to remove a pitman arm, there is a lot of stored energy you don't want throwing parts around. I hope this helps.

Good question. There really is no comparison. Ours will remove it faster, easier and with very little effort. Also, we are able to apply a significantly higher pulling force.

Well I think there will be a couple of disadvantages what is the price and the convenience The tool I mention all you need is a ratchet or impact but what does your unit cost in US dollars

Here are the links to what you will need. You can use any 10000psi hydraulic pump, or we can supply one. Add these to your cart, and it will work out the cost in US$ including shipping and insurance. Don't forget, our coupling system allows the hydraulic cylinder to be used for multiple applications, just like your impact or rachet. All couplings and attachments are designed and made in Australia in our own facilities. We also happy to look at other applications. mechanicsmate.com.au/product/25t-sheppard-m110-pitman-arm-puller-kit/ mechanicsmate.com.au/product/25t-cylinder-only-kit/

Thanks.You can make contact though our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au

The blue piece is a gearbox.

Thanks. If you have a look on our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au you can have a look at some of our range. If you shoot me an email through the contact us form with what you are looking at doing, I can recommend some options for you.

is this better kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6enY4t7dqaBhqc

@@mechanicsmateau now you talkin' pal. The adapter is genius.

Yes we do.

Send me an inquiry through our website www.mechanicsmate.com.au

Great question. I'm not sure. It would depend on your application. I know with some circuit engines they are done every 1500 race miles. It would be worth asking ATI. I made our attachment for this application because a customer asked if we could do something, and when they showed me how it is done using the ATI tool, I knew we could do something better for them.

Thanks. if you really do want one, send an inquiry through our website mechanicsmate.com.au and let us know for which engines.

@@mechanicsmateau Well it would be for a 2007 Kawasaki ZX6R motorcycle actually

@@mrjaybennett80that's not a problem. Easy enough to make an attachment to do that. I assume it is the one on the gearbox output shaft?

That is our quick change coupling

Mechanics Mate can these be bought ? Or do you have a drawing . This would make my life so much easier .

Daniel, you buy them from us. www.mechanicsmate.com.au. We have kits and can sell individually. If you don't find what you want on our website, just send an email through the contact us with what you are after, including your contact details, and we will get back to you.

Solo estamos mostrando nuestro soporte de motor. Este lo calificamos a 450 kg, pero como puede ver, hemos superado con creces esa capacidad al ponerle este motor.

Have you ever flown in a plane and watched the wings?

@@mechanicsmateau I happen to have a BS in engineering. Deflection is accepted and expected, but that hardness of that steel makes me flinch a bit. Safety glasses for sure.

@@theprofessorfate6184 if it were me, I would always use safety glasses. As with all jobs that a person undertakes, they must be looking at the risks and minimising, eliminating or providing suitable protection for themselves and others. This includes inspection of the equipment that is being used for signs of stress, such as cracks, damage, etc. This is equally important when it comes to the hydraulics, as an oil injection injury is deadly. We design and manufacture and test all our products to see how they perform under design loads, misuse and overloaded. We do this for several reasons: - To ensure the product is capable of performing the job it was designed for. - Understanding where/if there are any weaknesses, dangers, risks, etc - When/if we discover any weaknesses, we determine if a redesign is required, or if the mode of failure that has occurred is safe. If not, we redesign or discontinue and recall the product. - If it can be broken, we have already broken it, and know how and why it broke. Needless to say, we have had no warranty claims to date. We generally, do not video or publish our internal testing, however, we did when we overloaded our 450kg rated engine stand. Our video of a 8.3L Cummins, estimated at 700kg on our small 450kg engine stand was a test I was itching to do to see what would happen. I have since checked our calculations to find that: - The mainshaft with this engine was loaded to only a 1.05 factor of safety. - We used the incorrect clamping bolts Class 4.6, instead of Class 8.8 and found some minor yielding. If we had used the correct clamping bolts we were well within design limits. - The bearings however were overloaded by 70% over recommend design limits for 1,000,000 cycles, which equates to 20 years of service at design load assuming 1 engine is built per day, every day for the 20 years. - Surprisingly the gearbox showed no signs of excessive stress, as this was a major area of concern, especially when we discovered an excessive offset in the load. We have since performed a destructive test of one of these gearboxes to find that the bearings fail first, which is very comforting, as this only stops the turning. If we experienced a gear failure, then the engine would spin freely, which is unacceptable. - The frame experienced some deflection under the excessive load, with no signs of yielding. This test proves with complete confidence that this engine stand is more than capable of performing at its design limits, and if it is substantially overloaded, that it will to some extent perform at a reduced level. This is a typical example of what we do to the products we design and manufacture. Here is the link to the video of this test. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6enY4t7dqaBhqc