The Navy 6 has worked just fine. All I could ask for is more power. Looking at their X12 for that. Double the power would push me to 17mph. But really need more energy-dense batteries first. On the gas-outboard-retrofit idea, keep in mind that gas outboards use much more prop RPM than electric. Lower prop RPM is more efficient (all other things equal). The Navy 6 max prop RPM is ~1,500, most gas outboard motors use around twice that. The result is that less of the prop shaft power on a gas outboard gets converted to propulsive force compared to electric. I don't have exact numbers, but I'd guess that the propulsive force of your 12kW gas outboard conversion would come to only about 3/4 of what you'd get from a purpose-built 12kW electric outboard like the ePropulsion X12. I totally get the cost difference, and if you're okay with that kind of efficiency loss, the conversion route could make sense. Really comes down to your priorities and what you're trying to get out of the boat/motor/battery package. Do you have any pictures of your boat? Or a brand and model? My first question would be is it a planing hull, or displacement, or semi-displacement like mine. EDIT: Check out Stealth Outboards for examples of gas outboards converted to electric.

@@bobkart , I know, I am aware of the power loss in the retrofit. The electric motor will be the second type of propulsion. I also want to buy a new 20 hp gas outboard, mainly for the sea waters. Electric will be just for the restricted ones (lakes, reservoirs, fishing, slow travel). Will have 1,8 KWp of solar on the roof, so it might be working on the go if the light is good. I don't have a photo of my project, but imagine a little cat (like yours) with triple the width of the hulls and 2m longer, each one made of 3 nesting pieces. The hulls might be like a Jon boat, or a displacement one, depends how I shape the tip. The final platform will have around 3x7 m, capable to carry on my detachable camper box ( 3x2m / 1500kg), if I need to take all the confort with me. Or just pitch a tent on if I need to be light and fast. If I finish it this winter, I will send you videos. Look for these funny chinese, as refference to the hulls: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nmaWg3-QpbWNnLcsi=2z2iJDmuuEoCajXt The X12 would also be a better choice, but is for 96V, more expensive and would need another 100kgs of battery. Not so portable anymore. However, Torqeedo Cruise 12 or Elco EP20 might be a sweet dream, they are on 48V.

@@silviuflorescu6838 Interesting. The Stealth Switch will run on 48V and yield half power (9kW). But suffer from inefficient prop/speed, as do the Elco outboards. And the EP20 only has ~9kW (12hp). Another 48V option is GoldenMotor with their EZ-X10 and EZ-X20. Good Luck and looking forward to seeing your creation!

got*

I have a complete parts list and directions for building the steering part, which I posted in response to other comments here asking the same thing. For the throttle and other electrical controls, I build extension cables. You can do it even easier by just cutting and splicing. Just remove the cowling and it will be obvious how to proceed. Here's that parts list and directions for the steering part. " I can help with many of the part numbers, but some were fabricated, and several are just ordinary nuts/bolts/spacers/washers. There are three key parts to this setup: the steering tube and how it's attached to the transom, the tie rod from the steering cable end to the steering arm on the motor, and the steering arm on the motor. The steering tube is "Dometic SeaStar Support Tube, SA27274P". I found it at Amazon. Two mountable locking collars allow that to be attached to the transom. The McMaster-Carr part number for those is 5878T32. Those have a 7/8" ID and 1/4"-28 tapped holes on the flat sides for mounting. I used 1/4" standoffs between those collars and the cross piece mounted to the transom. That cross piece is 3/4" wide X 1/8" thick Aluminum. From there down will likely be different for your transom, but the video will give clues. The tie rod is made up of two ends and a rod, plus two jam nuts to lock the ends. The two ends are 59915K44, the rod is 6516K121, and the jam nuts are 90670A165. These are at McMaster-Carr. Threading is 3/8"-24, and also what I used to attach each tie rod end. The exact combination of spacers/nuts/washers you'll need to attach each tie rod end will vary depending on how the lower part worked out. The last component is the steering arm attached to the motor. The locking collar there is 5878T627 at McMaster-Carr. That has a 30mm ID and M6-1.0 threads on the flat sides, 10mm deep. Then it's just two pieces of angle Aluminum (5/8" sides X 1/8" thick), and a cross piece between them for one tie rod end to connect to (same width/thickness as the transom cross piece). Once the dust settles on your build, you'll likely want to upgrade the steel screws on the three locking collars to Stainless Steel. "

Hi Richard. My motor is the Evo version, so I think it's the same as what you have on order. I've put over 550 miles on the motor in 80+ hours. Nothing serious issue-wise, but I do have a short list of issues and nits. I'll share that here if you like, or you can reach out to me via email for easier discussion (see View Email Address on my About page).

No doubt a different pitch prop would perform marginally better for most any given boat/loading/conditions. Determining what pitch to change to could be challenging, as likely will be sourcing an alternative prop. Possibly they could be 3D printed? Then there's the idea of a different shape prop (rake, cup, ...). Lots of variables and difficult to test anything but a few combinations. That degree of prop design is usually reserved for experts. I'm certainly not up for it. 48 volts times 120 amp-hours comes to 5,760 watt-hours. Probably more if your nominal voltage is higher than 48 volts (like 51.2 volts for 16S LFP). Dividing 5,760 watt-hours by 2,200 watts yields a bit over 2.6 hours.

@@bobkart thank you Sir perfect answer

In this video I have the motor adjusted all the way down. This motor works like most trolling motors in that the shaft to the propeller can slide/lock in the transom bracket, so height adjustments can be made without changing the transom height. But because my remote steering linkage mounts in part to the transom (the tilt tube), making a height adjustment like that will require the locking collar on the sliding shaft for the steering mechanism to be moved accordingly. Lastly, on this boat I've made alternate transom mounting holes, so the entire transom can be moved to a different height. This more involved approach to motor height adjustment sidesteps the need to relocate the steering mechanism locking collar, as the motor stays in the same position relative to the motor's transom bracket. But obviously this change is only to specific alternate heights, and more involved than just sliding the shaft relative to the transom bracket.

@@bobkart thanks for the quick reply. I know your application is pretty specific that it has to be at a certain height for the mechanism to work. Could I drop the top section all the way down if I just hang it off the transom? Thanks again.

@@Paul68Luis It should be okay to lower the motor all the way down on the sliding shaft. Only issue would be if that puts it so much below the water surface that you prematurely hit bottom. There are lesser issues like slightly increased drag with more of the motor/shaft in the water, and potentially pushing at the wrong angle due to more leverage of the motor against the boat when it's so far underwater. Best to have it only as low as it needs to be to avoid ventilation. Or maybe I'm not understanding your question.

@@bobkart thanks again for the quick reply. Sellers are pretty vague with spec so I was hoping for some input from an end user. Gonna use one for a sailboat. Currently using a haswing 55lb 12 model to get in and out of the harbour so I’m hoping this is going to be an upgrade. :)

@@Paul68Luis You should get around 4x the thrust from this versus the Haswing. My most negative point of feedback for this motor is the very sensitive throttle. Good Luck!

In the parts list I replied on your other comment, it mentions that the shaft diameter on the motor I used is 30mm. If the shaft diameter on your gas Hangkai is still 30mm, then yes. Otherwise you'll need a different locking collar to match that different shaft diameter. If you Hangkai is gas, it could get interesting adapting it to use remote throttle. On electric I just used an extension cord (the red/white/black/blue cable seen in the video). Thinking you will need more of a mechanical linkage for a gas outboard.

Can I find the cable on Amazon? Or what website should I go to to find that one??

@@inkbydjtattat8628 I built extension cables using connectors from this kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLGF3T

@@inkbydjtattat8628 If KZbin blocks my comment due to having a URL in it, the Amazon product name is "Glarks 700Pcs 2.8mm 2 3 4 6 9 Pin Plug Housing Pin Header Crimp Electrical Wire Terminals Connector and 30 Sets 4mm Car Motorcycle Bullet Terminal Assortment Kit for Motorcycle, Bike, Car, Boats"

Mannnnn thanks dawg ! 🤘🏾🔥 and you used the wires from extension cord from the House or the orange one ??

Hi Deks, 7.5mph is probably a better representation of the speed with the Hangkai. It was the 48V model, and I'm using 16S LFP cells (51.2V nominal). Hangkai was using 2200W at that speed (full power). ePropulsion Navy 6.0 Evo uses roughly that same amount of power at that same speed, maybe a touch less due to a more efficient propeller design. Not sure what you mean by "angled prop shaft" as the Evo uses direct drive. But maybe the Navy 6 you'd get is the non-Evo model, which does have gears between the motor and prop. The Navy 6 is a better motor overall than the Hangkai, so if price is at all close, I'd go with the Navy. You want to make sure the Navy shaft length is appropriate for your transom. The Hangkai has a really short tiller arm and a very sensitive throttle, and you have to hold the throttle position (or use the Hold button, but then the motor is not safe if you go overboard). I think you're looking at a 40-pound difference between the Hangkai and the Navy 6.

@@bobkartThe used ePropulsion 6.0 has a 90 degree shaft gearbox and weighs around 80 lbs, I guess it is an older version. The owner is still considering the price, it will be close to €2k (the $ and € are almost the same). The Hangkai which I could buy new comes in two versions, a 60V version labeled like 10 and a 48V version labeled 8. The guys at Hangkai probably meant these motors should substitute 10HP or 8HP gasoline engines. They are both rated as 2200W BLDC motors but there are no pictures of the internals to see which controller is inside. The motors could be the same with a different controller. The 48V could have a 45A controller limit and the 60V could be 40A, that would be close to 2.2kW but with a slightly higher speed of the 60V prop. They are both around €630 and weigh a bit less than 30 lbs. I have a good 60V 40Ah battery, made with M50LT cells. It is a 2.4kWh pack so it could run for more than an hour on full power or a couple of hours at half power. If it reaches the speed of 8 mph at 60V at full power that would be great. The speed of 7 kts is more than enough. The ePropulsion could reach higher speeds but then again a larger capacity battery would be needed. The Hangkai is definitely lighter and cheaper. I could buy two Hangkai motors and another battery for the price of the ePropuslion motor alone. What bothers me is the realiability. I am buying this for my dad who is already 85 and I am not around all the time when he is at sea. So it would be best to find something he can use with ease and safely. Thanks for a good reply, I really appreciate it.

Here's a parts list I posted in response to a similar question. " I can help with many of the part numbers, but some were fabricated, and several are just ordinary nuts/bolts/spacers/washers. There are three key parts to this setup: the steering tube and how it's attached to the transom, the tie rod from the steering cable end to the steering arm on the motor, and the steering arm on the motor. The steering tube is "Dometic SeaStar Support Tube, SA27274P". I found it at Amazon. Two mountable locking collars allow that to be attached to the transom. The McMaster-Carr part number for those is 5878T32. Those have a 7/8" ID and 1/4"-28 tapped holes on the flat sides for mounting. I used 1/4" standoffs between those collars and the cross piece mounted to the transom. That cross piece is 3/4" wide X 1/8" thick Aluminum. From there down will likely be different for your transom, but the video will give clues. The tie rod is made up of two ends and a rod, plus two jam nuts to lock the ends. The two ends are 59915K44, the rod is 6516K121, and the jam nuts are 90670A165. These are at McMaster-Carr. Threading is 3/8"-24, and also what I used to attach each tie rod end. The exact combination of spacers/nuts/washers you'll need to attach each tie rod end will vary depending on how the lower part worked out. The last component is the steering arm attached to the motor. The locking collar there is 5878T627 at McMaster-Carr. That has a 30mm ID and M6-1.0 threads on the flat sides, 10mm deep. Then it's just two pieces of angle Aluminum (5/8" sides X 1/8" thick), and a cross piece between them for one tie rod end to connect to (same width/thickness as the transom cross piece). Once the dust settles on your build, you'll likely want to upgrade the steel screws on the three locking collars to Stainless Steel. " I hope this helps!

Unsure... you check here for updates: teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/supercharger-sammamish-wa-under-construction-jan-2023-8-v3-stalls.228440/

Thanks! Those Caraboats are rare! I think the motor I have on Electra (ePropulsion Navy 6.0 Evo) would surpass the performance of the 6.5hp motor I've see them set up with. And lots of room for solar panels on your roof. Feel free to reach out to me for advice. And definitely post videos of your progress. Good Luck!

why would a pedestrian need to use the tunnel??

Unfortunately, America is built for CARS!

Hi Nathan, I got the pontoons here: hydrobikesontario.com/product/build-your-own-boat/

My understanding is that there's a weir right at the start of this river, just as you leave Lake Sammamish. If you put in after that point, you might have a chance, but as far as I know, there's no getting over that weir without carrying the boat/motor. You may want to visually survey that area from land if possible, to see how passable that weir might be. Thinking not though. I of course came from the other end, so can only address the last five miles of the river, as shown here. I did get into some gravel after the video ends, but could have avoided it by going more to one side. But beyond this point I can't address how shallow it might get (other than the weir).

A small rock. You can just see it being kicked up off the inside edge of the rear left tire of the blue Honda ahead of me. Made a couple of scratches in the paint, but fortunately did not crack the windshield. The impact sounds 'soft' because the audio is slowed down along with the video, but it was a sharp 'click' on the windshield at normal speed.

Thanks, hexcruiser!

Here you go: i.imgur.com/bVitrEG.jpg i.imgur.com/YmrFj2Y.jpg

Thank you. Does that box hanging down look the same as the front to divert the flow of water ?

@@siteslikeadmin1457 It's narrow at the front (like a wedge), and a bit shorter. So it pushes the water both down a little bit, and to each side of the lower unit. I actually have that piece off at the moment and top speeds are virtually identical. I do see more spray from the lower unit that way. Its purpose is to stand in for a transom, and was likely made that wide for a typical 10hp-20hp gas outboard motor. The ePropulsion lower unit is much narrower, so it doesn't need that much water diversion. I may revisit this part with a narrower version some day.

Ok thanks for the info

Hi 0xKruzr, I'm running the motor at maximum depth, and there's no accommodation for different motor depths with this setup, other than relocating the clamp on the motor shaft (with tools). I can help with many of the part numbers, but some were fabricated, and several are just ordinary nuts/bolts/spacers/washers. There are three key parts to this setup: the steering tube and how it's attached to the transom, the tie rod from the steering cable end to the steering arm on the motor, and the steering arm on the motor. The steering tube is "Dometic SeaStar Support Tube, SA27274P". I found it at Amazon. Two mountable locking collars allow that to be attached to the transom. The McMaster-Carr part number for those is 5878T32. Those have a 7/8" ID and 1/4"-28 tapped holes on the flat sides for mounting. I used 1/4" standoffs between those collars and the cross piece mounted to the transom. That cross piece is 3/4" wide X 1/8" thick Aluminum. From there down will likely be different for your transom, but the video will give clues. The tie rod is made up of two ends and a rod, plus two jam nuts to lock the ends. The two ends are 59915K44, the rod is 6516K121, and the jam nuts are 90670A165. These are at McMaster-Carr. Threading is 3/8"-24, and also what I used to attach each tie rod end. The exact combination of spacers/nuts/washers you'll need to attach each tie rod end will vary depending on how the lower part worked out. The last component is the steering arm attached to the motor. The locking collar there is 5878T627 at McMaster-Carr. That has a 30mm ID and M6-1.0 threads on the flat sides, 10mm deep. Then it's just two pieces of angle Aluminum (5/8" sides X 1/8" thick), and a cross piece between them for one tie rod end to connect to (same width/thickness as the transom cross piece). Once the dust settles on your build, you'll likely want to upgrade the steel screws on the three locking collars to Stainless Steel. Feel free to ask further questions, and Good Luck!

Mine was just an extension cord to the tiller handle which I then relocated forward to the helm. If you just want to replicate that, It just involves a three-conductor extension cord with matching male/female connectors on the ends. I can provide detail on those connectors if you like. An even more straightforward approach would be to just splice in more wire on the existing cabling. But, due to how touchy their throttle mechanism is, your best bet might be to use a pair of aftermarket PWM controllers. If you take the cover off you'll see their motor controller, then the wires from that down to the motor below the waterline would be where you'd connect the PWM controllers (bypassing their controller). To use their controller with a remote throttle (other than how I did it) would likely involve reverse-engineering how their throttle works. The simple way would be that they use a potentiometer, but I couldn't get any resistance readings when I probed the throttle with an ohmmeter. So thinking instead that they're using a shaft encoder. A digital signal would come from that to the motor controller. One would need to determine which of the three wires on that connection are power, ground, and signal. Then an aftermarket shaft encoder (connected to a suitable physical throttle mechanism) might be able to stand in for their tiller-arm throttle mechanism.

Two things to note: the motor only spends around one hour per week (on average) in the water, and there's another anode on the trailing edge of the lower unit (just above the propeller).

What is the blue cap? Where do you find it?

@@Dzungsinguyen 'Soccer Training Codes' (mentioned in the video description).

I can't say that I've noticed a performance improvement. Had to try though.

Hi Andy, the hull comes from Rowing Solutions. It's the RS CAT16 model. Here is their website: www.rowingsolutions.com

seattle.craigslist.org/est/boa/d/mill-creek-electric-hydrobike-prototype/7576330486.html

Hi Raymond, I got the pontoons here: hydrobikesontario.com/product/build-your-own-boat/

Hi Danzig, thanks for the comment. There's are two slots/grooves in each pontoon for the cross pieces to lay in. My connection is actually better than the stock connection, as I'm using square tubing. The sides and bottom of that slot in the pontoons are tight against the cross piece, so there's no room for there to be any rotation along either the Y (longitudinal) or Z (vertical) axis. The small amount of corner-to-corner twist that's allowed before the deck goes on is fairly-well remedied by the deck being attached. And really, if the pontoons twist a bit relative to each other in response to rougher water conditions, that actually softens the ride. Keep in mind that the full Hydrobike (with bike and passenger and gear) is rated to 400 pound capacity, so those four posts embedded in the pontoons are in there really well.

Hi Bob, I made one myself for this video, but you can buy them (for example) here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F4R7BDL . . . it's just a plug with ground connected to neutral.

​@@bobkart thank you! after looking how it works, i was afraid it would short, or damage something. on another note, how difficult do you think charge while driving would be on the first gen leaf?

@@bobedwards8896 I'm not aware of a way to drive a Leaf while it's charging. By that I mean charging through the charge ports. If you were to connect 'something' straight to the traction battery (~400V), like a charge controller, it could be do-able, but you'd be going around the Leaf's electronics, so results could be iffy. Plus that kind of voltage is dangerous to work with unless you know what you're doing. I've seen where people have added batteries and had them connect to the traction battery, but I don't have a link handy. Maybe search on Leaf Range Extender/Extension?

Hi Josh, the 8hp and 10hp models are both rated at 2,200 watts input, just one uses 48 volts nominal and the other uses 60 volts nominal. 2,200 watts converted to horsepower is just under 3hp. Note that 2,200 watts is the input power, so power at the prop shaft is more like 2,000 watts, which converts to 2.7hp. Where one big difference between an electric outboard motor and a gasoline outboard motor starts to show up is *after* the prop shaft. Generally speaking, a large, slow-turning propeller is more efficient than a small, fast-turning propeller. Gasoline outboard motors can't use large/slow props as easily as an electric outboard motor can, so the propeller efficiency on the gas version tends to be much less than that of the electric version. I.e. more of the power at the prop shaft is converted into propulsive thrust for electric. If we use 50% prop efficiency for the gas motor, that 5hp at the prop shaft results in only 2.5hp of propulsive thrust. The prop on an electric motor could be more like 75% efficient, so that 2.7hp at the prop shaft on the 2,200-watt Hangkai would result in 2hp of propulsive thrust. So yes, that's close to what you get from a 5hp gas motor.

@@bobkart I would think that the 60v 10hp rated motor would be more than the 48v 8hp rated motor. Even though they are both claimed at 2200w.