Anxiety is worked on in so many way, you often can't correct it straight out, but I can take a command the dog knows really well, ask for it and correct for non compliance. Then, I just see if that helps with the impulse control that is bad because of anxiety. That's basically what is happening here. He is corrected on ecollar. We also worked on corrections for OUT through play when he's in drive and that helped with over all impulse control and correcting for not heeling when asked (if it was in an environment he was familiar with and good at, always after a warm up too and knowing when I was asking for too much)

thank you! so much work! LOL

Often times, yes. This is a very thin slip leash I got on Amazon and when you teach leash pressure, have good food drive, you can be very successful. However, on breeds with short snouts, big eyes or yorki's (known for having trachea issues) I prefer to first train on a star mark or a micro prong (with rubber tips if dog is sensitive) and when they are doing well and an adult, switch to slip if you want.

That's great! You're welcome

Yup! I would also say the walk starts inside the house. How is the dog when you put your shoes on, grab leash, leash up, walk to front door, open front door, etc. I rarely work on the walk. Usually I'm working on a lot inside first before working on things outside. Just don't forget that. For me it's so important because that is how I am fair to the dog. Not letting excitement go and then just being demanding.

I believe not to forage out in front when in a heel, and to recognize the end of the leash, and not hit it(pull). The dog is pushy, and pushes the limits of the leash.

@@accufab Interesting! I feel for the owner I doubt it will get fixed like this. In your comment if a dog is pressing you for 6 inches and like this dog being in front is about who's leading and who's following.

@@chrisr-m6568 basically yes. The dog is trying to lead. This can lead into other issues like reactivity. Some dogs just have a pushy personality. In these cases the handler must be more structured, and have clear boundaries for the dog. This is not a “soft” dog.

@@accufab Yea, I'm a dog behaviorist. But it would be rules not necessary structure. When you have a dog that's trying to lead the issue is more trust and respect! The problem is this trainer is conditioning an e-collar to stop a behavior, but an e-collar doesn't create leadership it creates suppression which is fine if that's the goal. This dog does need a firmer owner! This trainer needs to teach the owner how to be firmer to create a softer dog. And it's not a prong & e-collar! once the owner makes a mistake with the e-collar that a whole new level of trust and respect that will be lost.

@@chrisr-m6568 -see you have now shown yourself as a purely positive trainer, I mean (behaviorist), with an agenda. As opposed to engaging in a non productive conversation I’ll just drop it. By the way if you’d like to hire me, I can show you how to build drive reward, leadership, and trust with using an ecollar. We do it all the time with hunting dogs. Then you’d have another tool in your tool box.

Definitely a personality trait! It's so challenging!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad to help

It is interesting how things will work for some dogs, not others and different environments warrants different behaviors as well.

haha, your welcome 😂

your comment saved me a trip downstairs, thanks

Must have been a dud...or maybe a different type, over heated? Who knows. We haven't seen that issue.

How old is your puppy? We aren't usually using it on puppies for sep. anxiety.

head to my KZbin page and browse videos and playlists. There are so many on my KZbin page. It depends on what command you are working on (I mostly have come and place examples)nand what stage you are at with ecollar.

@@RuffBeginningsRehab hello, we are at the beginning. The dog doesn't want to go to his place, when I take him to his place, the doorbell distracts him. We started training with a prong collar, but it didn't work. We introduced ecollar into training, so I would like to see a video on how to punish a dog when it does not want to go to its place or goes out without permission.

@@mateuszkopacz5509 if a leash didn't work you don't go to ecollar. Everything should be taught with leash first, including corrections/guidance. The ecollar should just be an off leash tool or maybe for charging the door. Using the ecollar for the door bell depends on what and why. Is your dog barking and jumping towards door? Moving away from door unsure? Or just pacing when door bell rings? How is your dog at place when the door bell isn't ringing? Is place usually easy and comfortable/fun for him?

@@RuffBeginningsRehab the dog is polite on walks, but we must wear a muzzle during walks. the "place" command is known. when someone rings the bell or knocks on the door, the dog runs and barks, we want to prevent it from doing so and punish it for such behavior. If he listens and stays in his place, gets a treat and a toy, he is very happy. As he runs to the door and clenches his jaw, he receives a warning in the form of a prong collar. However, I don't always have time to run and take him to my place, so I want to introduce an electric collar so that when we are not at home and the dog is naughty (we have a camera in the living room), he will receive a remote impulse injection and calm down. the notification can record a video of working with the dog and using the tool collar. you have a great channel on KZbin. I've already watched a lot of movies.

I would say you can correct the bad behavior of reacting to the door with ecollar, but then in such an intense and emotional scenario, guide him back to play with body language or leash guidance. Say no leash and you correct running to the door intensely. Dog might just freeze. Get in front of him and just use spacial pressure (walking into him) to have him give more space, no ecollar and then say place when you are closer to it in a neutral tone. If that is even hard, then you need to have your dog drag a leash when you are supervising him so you can calmly guide him back to place with the leash. He will put it together quickly. This is to make sure you don't accidentally over communicate with him.

I know! People really don't understand until they have experienced the difficulty themselves. All we can do is advocate for our dogs, don't put them around people that don't listen and be really clear with guests.

Well...yeah, when she tries to bite the owner, you muzzle condition a dog so they aren't sedating their dog at the vet for a simple cleaning.

Um, well, yeah. Maybe I'm misinterpreting your comment, but muzzle conditioning a dog that bites the owners is probably a smart thing to do as they are working on this. Did you think I had the muzzle on for no reason?

try it! Sometimes dogs over tired can become irritated. I'd say fulfilled and a little tired is helpful.

Great tip!

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R86GXKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

❤️

Thank you 🥰🥰

Thank you for saying this. It's my pleasure. I struggle making shorter, basic vids, HA!

Thank you so much, I'm glad it's helpful!

We do plenty of those, but we don't start there. Also the younger, the more foundational training and consideration they get is important, but I totally agree in general.

It's definitely harder to move into small dogs. You hold the leash back a bit for guidance like in the video and then out and away from you a little. Once your little dog starts to look up at you when they see you move towards them (more slowly then big dogs) you won't need leash pressure up and away from you anymore, just maybe still back a bit for guidance. If you are struggling with those things, I would focus more on the redirection though walking back and food (if he'll take it) and turning for a week before layering on moving in. Also, don't start outside. Practice in the house and yard for a couple weeks first.

@@RuffBeginningsRehab Thanks very much for this help. I hadn't used food but that is the way to go. My little guy is very responsive to food training, so I will take your advice!

you desensitize the Dremel, food Dremel. With a place command and a leash taught to the dog, you should be able to get right next to them, then you use food and desensitize noise.

This is the dogs meal, but you can add snacks if they are healthy and the dog isn't over weight.

@@RuffBeginningsRehab I tried that and it seems to work. I just need to get it locked in. Seems he won't calm down before I begin.

yes, she just needs to get used to it, no pressure, so just wearing it, then wearing it while eating, playing and training with no leash or dragging leash and build to using it over the course of a couple weeks. If supervised, try 2-4 bouts a day of wearing it an hour. She needs to have it on long enough she doesn't care about it anymore before taking it off. That is likely o take longer then 10 min.

you always want to target intent as well (the looking for cats) otherwise you'll always be working behind the arousal.

I have tons of obedience vids, check out my KZbin page, but I'm not a great obedience trainer like many out there. I train first on dog behavior, not obedience.

My pleasure!

look up josh muran's video on muzzle conditioning...might be Moran.

Thank u

Thank you so much for telling me, that means a lot!

I'm so glad!

I do agree with you about that pronged collar… but she is actually doing most things correctly imho here but in my experience dogs will naturally seek your approval without having to “trap” them using what I consider to be a medieval device. To me it’s the same thing as training a horse using an electric crop that emits a shock as a corrective measure. She said she was pregnant so I’m sure it makes it easier to control a larger dog but I’m certain she would get the same result without it even though it may take a little extra time. She is good about consistently rewarding the dog verbally instead of giving it treats. Dogs just naturally want to please us which is why we call them man’s best friend. Peace ☮️

Sorry you are mistaken, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Prong collar is GREAT for nervous dogs. Slip leash can be the way to go for some, but not this guy. He has a huge bolting issue with his owners and refusal to do things from fear, reactivity, or just out of habit. Prong collar is a safe way to apply pressure guidance to the dog without them choking out and they become less resistant, making it LESS stressful since they figure it out faster. There is no force here in this instance, just holding fast and guidance. When you get less resistance with a tool, there is actually less stress, not more in the long term. There is also a great relationship benefit of working him through his stress like this by following instead of doing one step a day for a week rather then all the steps every day for a week. (some dogs would be different, but not him, he was good to go with since he already had good pack drive)

@@LucyJazzy85 LOL Most things...thanks. You might see from the hundreds of videos on here that I use mostly prong collars. Little dogs, big dogs, etc. Not because of size or strength, though that it can be helpful in those instances as well. Yes, this dog already had good pack drive, making this easier to accomplish, but no, not all dogs want to just please.

rescue in LA-not mine, a dog that I'm training.

I'm glad it helps!