No primer or clear coat?

Control blade bushing, to save a few dollars Im going to replace the bushing and not the control blade. As soon as I retired I bought a 4 tonne 2 post hoist to put less strain on my bilateral knee replacements.

I’m right into xh Utes both my Utes are manual and both don’t have ABS or gas I removed the engine from my white Ute quite quickly and easily on four jack stands in about a hour as I find manual’s really easy four bolts at the tailshaft four bolts holding the box to the Bell housing and two bolts on the box mount to body slide the box out backwards and then the engine sits back undo the main Bell housing bolts to block remove that and then a few wires and hoses bang engine out in no time my donk had a leaking head gasket pissing water 💦 out the side running down the side of the block pulled the head off and found number 6 and number 1 piston was fucked so for me it was easier to just bolt a AU engine in got on eBay and ordered all the parts I needed like a 3 row v8 rad $195 new alternator pro flow 140 amp $304 new water 💦 pump $50 new power pump $155 new high pressure line for the pump $70 new rack ends with new tie rods upper and lower ball joints new rear main seal new harmonic balancer seal new intake gasket new exhaust gasket for extractors New hose kit sump gasket four new shocks $300 new tuff mounts $410.10 new over flow bottle $100 genuine Ford, one from eBay and new billet cap $24 bucks new clutch kit $289 Machine fly wheel $77 and Smart lock, bypass module $115 new from eBay and I’ve notched out cut the k frame so alloy AU sump will fit straight in and detailed and painted all the suspension parts gearbox k frame control arms stub axles and tailshaft all in 2 k epoxy primer wet on wet and gloss custom colour and my Ute is nearly ready for the xh bolt ons to go back on the au donk like the log intake manifold and I’ve also brought a TI performance ac pump delete bracket as xh log manifold have issues with it hitting the ac pump don’t need aircon in a Ute wind the windows down and I’ve also seem welded the whole engine bay and chassis rails and welded up all unnecessary holes ready for epoxy primer and body filler and custom paint work to begin before I put it all back together for blue slip pass … cool video maté good to see you fix that cool old falcon up

Dear Sir, keep doing videos for us. We don't have many Australian doing videos to fix our cars. Thank you.

Cheers for the video mate! Doing this job on my fgx g6e very soon. Such a bloody shame they don’t make these simple cars like these anymore :(

Great video and info. I did exactly the same thing to my ED but haven’t fixed it yet. How many hours do you reckon in total did it take you?

You don't have to drill, just replace the factory cable holder with a cable tie

Put the car in the sun or a hair dryer might help soften the sealant. Copper Bronze......Ford...Maybe XA?

I have a 2005 Ford territory I replaced a tail shaft bearing 2years a go and now have to replace it again doesn't laste Long

Hey mayte nice job dropping that frame I've got my engine out and have the sump off with the same gasket you have and really worried it's gonna leak cause it doesn't look right having that lift in it is yours still holding up fine ?

Hi Nice job. I am doing up my 96 ef xr6 engine and noticed the same thing with the gasket. Putting it on the engine today hope all pulls up ok.

Very Descriptive. Thank you.. Ordering a pair today as mine are shot.

Thanks to everyone who watched this video or gave it a like, it's the most amount of views I have ever had on a video in 15 years, it's so much appreciated. If you only got one thing out of the video I'm happy.

Thanks for the video mate. Currently, Machter are charging $360 for the pair (FCA-FD006). A bit of a price hike since you did yours 9 months ago. Cheers.

Love you bro. U saved my money. ❤

Hi mate did the ones you replaced cause your territory to sway from 80ks and up

thanks for the video mate,very clear

Thanks for making this video mate, very clear and concise with an easy going approach. My type of video😁

Thanks for your time mate.looks nice and straight forward-cheers

..... Well done Mate, Articulate, entertaining, educational, safe, excellent ! Don't suppose you have the torque specs ?

Ok mantap sukses semangat mampir

Looking good cuz, can you start on my cellar conversion afterwards haha 😄

Good job Cory

I could have flown you over Business class, paid you double rate, and got you pissed for a fraction of what I paid my plumber and had a better end result!

You did great my dear♥️

You’ve earned a subscriber my friend

It's coming along well. Your doing great job cory. Keep up the great work.

Hi everyone, now has come the time for me to ask for help. Soon I'm going to need to start working on the doors of the truck. Now my chevy was easy, no glass no tracks, none of all those things you need when you have a closed cab door. On the chevy it was just a matter of using C channel on 3 sides and the top of the door skin just slide over the top of the sides and it was done. How do I construct these doors? Using C channel, square tubing, building a skin out of thin gauge sheet metal, building a tubular frame and fit a thin gauge sheet metal shin over the top? If anyone has ever constructed a door from just the door skin any advise would be much appreciated or if you can point me too any videos here on KZbin that would be great too.