@AndersenAdventures21 56 so far. Progress has slowed significantly since I moved to New Zealand. Slowly working out plans to return in July and tackle another 20 hopefully 🤞

@ that’s a good number of them. Not being state side would make it hard. I have done 1 and am going to be working on as many as I can this summer lol.

@AndersenAdventures21 One is where it begins. If you ever need beta beyond my videos, please reach out. The list is a mighty goal. You got this. Just keep at it.

@michaelgibbons Thanks! It was quite an undertaking for a 1 day trip. The south face of the summit block looked like some people used it to ascend. It is easily a class 4. Wrapping around to the north side and then ascending was a fairly straightforward class 3 with a class 4 move or two. All the rap slings when I was up there led off the south face. Of course, a lot may have changed since 1983

@@Hike2hike Here's one for you! In 1983, I made my first trip to the N. Cascades. I was living in Salt Lake (after attending the Univ. of Utah) but I'm originally from northern New Jersey (graduated high school in '72). After getting off the ferry at Stehekin, I stood on the dock, waiting for the shuttle bus to arrive. There was another guy on the dock in blue jeans... T-shirt & heavy beard... he definitely looked "local". I had lots of questions about the area, so I started a conversation. Turns out he was a back-country ranger, waiting for some relatives to arrive via pontoon plane. As we talked, he suddenly starting using my name! Why? Because ten years earlier, he was my NEXT DOOR NEIGHBOR (in New Jersey)!!

@@michaelgibbons 😂 That's wild

@Sinilindin the road up to Persis is owned by a logging company. (Weyerheuser? Maybe?). They control access. When I did Persis, I just took a bike and walked up to the trail head, then rode back to the car A buddy of mine said he walked up and checked the gate once, and there was no lock on it, so you could just give it a go and see. Otherwise the logging company will have to help you get access to drive up there.

Depending on your tolerance for exposure, I would say the final summit ridge is class 3+. Handholds were plentiful and solid from what I remember. As far as technical, there is some other minor scrambling. But, there is a lot of route finding on sometimes very steep/rough terrain. Know your limits and take a good quality map with you.

Yea, that's the most likely outcome of a fall while solo. That's why the park service has very stringent requirements for getting a permit to go up there alone.

Glad you're enjoying the videos! Would love to make more, but I recently moved to New Zealand 🇳🇿 I do have beta on a couple of the Everett 21 that I did not make videos for. If you need it, feel free to reach out. I'll be back to visit family and finish the list, so I will definently make some more videos along the way. Might take awhile though

Yea, I would imagine it would be much easier with some snow on it. The loose rock was a little sketch in some spots. It's not fun to walk up or down. A standing glissade on the way down sounds like fun 😁 Glad you enjoyed watching!

Just below the summit (maybe 200 or 300 feet SE ish?) I remember some very small bivy sites with some rocks set up for windwalls. They were quite small though, 1 person or 2 cozy persons kind of size. I tried to find any photos I have, but it doesn't look like I took any. Wish I could be more help than that. Any other questions, feel free to ask, and I'll do my best to help!

Just stay climbers right, and there is plenty of rock to put under your feet Please don't ever walk on cornices...

This was in May. December might be possible, but I am 99% sure that the road closes, so you would be looking at several miles of snowshoeing/skinning up to the trailhead. Also, weather changes fast up there. My attempt before this went from sunny to snowing with 60+ mph winds in about 10 minutes. So, keep an eye out for any weather changes

Yes. I remember the false summit snowfield being very slick when I did this late July 2012.

I certainly do. That entire route is quite risky. Without a solid knowledge of anchors, gear use, rope work, and a host of other skills, I would highly recommend people avoid it. It's tough to convey risk assessment in a 10-minute youtube video.

I left the car at about 3am and was back around 12pm or 1ish.

That's really going to depend on your comfort level with exposure. Most of the climb is walking with some hand use on steep spots. Mostly along the ridge and scree slope. The main scramble is quite steep and exposed but very short (75 - 100 vertcal feet). Watch the closing scene and judge how you feel about the terrain. That closing scene is descending the hardest/steepest section. Personally, the only climbing gear I used was a helmet.

😂 Agreed, there's really only 1/4 mile or so with any exposure or real scrambling. But, those sections can be up to class 4. Several deaths have occurred on the ridge. Anyone who goes, please be careful in the few tough spots. Coming home is the ultimate goal.

From the Chiwawa side, going up, the lower section felt like a 3 with a lot of loose rock. The last 50 ish feet felt very exposed, and I would put it at low to mid 4. Very crumbly rock makes some spots feel quite uncomfortable. The summit ridge felt easy. Maybe a 2 with a few spots where I needed hands.

@@Hike2hike Thanks for the beta. It'd be great to get both of those in one trip. I'm slowly becoming comfortable soloing class 4. I like the idea of not having to downclimb it and carrying over to the other side.

There were several going the wrong way at the top of Couloir, which was a bit confusing. Face NWish and follow the ones on your left. Scrambling shouldn't go over 2+. After cresting the ridge, there are cairns up high and some down low. Both lead to the right place. I went low on the way up and followed the higher path on the way down. I felt like staying high was much easier. Climb safe up there!

Yes, it is. You need special permission from the park superintendent. There is an application available online you can find with a quick Google search. Just like a background check on a gun. You need permission via an application.

You're entitled to your opinion.

The wind was kicking up to around 60mph that day. Everyone could barely stand on the summit between gusts. There is a summit photo on my blog, just couldn't get the video working in that wind

Thank you! I'm not sure why, but the snow there always seems to be a wet postholing mess. Very fun climb once you actually get to the peak. The approach is enough to keep me from trying again, though 😂 Keep at it, and you'll land it soon enough

Sorry for the delayed response. I did it in mid January. But the conditions are going to vary significantly year to year. If you want to give it a shot in winter, know your avalanche skills and be very careful with the exit in the hourglass gulley. That gulley is a nightmare 😳

Sorry for the delay in response, I've been quite busy with a new career.... I prefer Sherman because there is less guided groups and more experienced climbers. Gives it a "big mountain base camp" kind of feel. Also the Emmons is a more challenging route. Also yes. There is a solar toilet, but don't rely on it. Sometimes it isn't working.... and yes, there is a Ranger and they will check your permits In regards to the rope... glaciers are unforgiving. A snowbridge might appear solid, but once you step on it who knows. If a soloist falls in a crevasse I would guess the chance of survival is maybe 1% at best. So, if something seems questionable, better to build an anchor and do some extra work to get across. I enjoy soloing big peaks, but I don't have a death wish. What gear to carry comes with experience, time and personal preference. The rope is just how I do it (along with pickets, ice screws etc). Others might disagree, but, that is soloing. Know yourself, know your gear, and know where you draw the line. It is really just a mental game when you are alone 🙂

@@Hike2hike thanks for the response. I’ve done DC twice and Kautz once and am planning Emmons so I was curious. Also I was interested in logistic of roping climbing solo. Good luck in future climbs.

They are allowed ONLY if you have special permission from the park's superintendent. Boot pack was okay, several crevasse crossings were very difficult while solo but not shown. I was told by the camp Ranger that the previous day there had been two crevasse falls. Boot pack or not, this kind of climb is never to be taken lightly. I summited July 18th 2021.

Allowed but rangers might wanna know experience. When in doubt, don’t try to hop a crav. Go around. It changes daily

Hopefully Denali. I want to solo the west Rib first, then Cassin Ridge... my ultimate goal in life is K2 solo in winter. I like to shoot for the moon 🙂