My car has a Pypes catback with violator mufflers and their x pipe. In the video it is missing the tailpipes because they were hitting on my axle housing after swapping to my newer headers. Gen 2 Clear Image Authorize Tri-ys

It was a flip car my neighbor had. I think it lives in AL somewhere now.

3.73s with 4.10s my first gear wild be completely useless with the stroker as it already hazes the tires when I go wide Open from 5 mph in first.

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage You have a nice ride man, keep shredding tires!

@@615JOHNLEE they're to expensive for that. Hahaha.

I honestly didn't recall what idle setting but most likely right around 800rpm. It's the exhaust setup on it that makes it sound that way though. 3 inch y pipe into single exhaust with single magnaflow (I think) bullet muffler.

Yes, you will need to tune for a 383. What you need to do for tuning will depend on which year you're car is. 94 and 95 are OBD1 and I can point you in the right direction 96 is OBD2 and a bit tougher but there are solutions (not cheap) out there

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage yeah I have a 96 so I might have to do the the ls1 computer conversion

@@julescarter1280 that would be my suggestion unless you don't mind OBD1 swapping. An old laptop, and a $60-100 cable and I can show you where you get the tuning and datalogging software for free.

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage ok cool I’ll keep in touch and and try to give that route a try

I haven't got a clue, the car was bought with the engine already in it, I sold it to a friend, we got it running and I haven't seen it since.

It's got 3.73s, and this video was before the 383 stroker. It sounds even better now. Just look for my idle videos

kzbin.infoIbgWik5Tyn4?feature=share

The wheels on my red Caprice are Rev Classic 107s and I went the cheap route to my 383 stroker in it by buying a Camaro with the stroker already done that they couldn't get running and swapped it into my Caprice. There is a video of the car I swapped it from.

As far as cost, it depends on your power goals. If you do buy an already built engine on a deal just make sure you check everything over before you install it.

@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage OK. Thanx for the quick response. I'm on my 3rd caprice I love these cars. All of em with lt1s. The 1st was the fastest it was a ppv. Now it'd time to spice things up a bit. Tired of all these dodge vehicles trying me lol. I figured 383 stroker is the way to go. Do you think this lt1 block is good to build on? Everybody is ls swapping but I like to be a lil different 😏

It just depends on your power goals and budget. The LT1 is a great platform if you know what you're doing with them. But to beat a scat your going to need to shoot for more than 400rwhp which is doable with the right cam, heads, intake and supporting mods. I chose a small cam for low end grunt since I'm running a t56 with 3.73s and the car is a blast.

Watch my no start part two. It may help you out.

@468delray it isn't my car. I'm not about to tell someone else how to enjoy their own car.

He's running a TSP (Top Street Performance) Opti. As am I in my red 383 Caprice, and pepper the red z28 as well.

Just the lt1 that came in the roadmaster that the body is sitting on. The LT1 came in the vette, roadmaster, Caprice, Fleetwood, z28, firebird formula and TA.

He doesn't drive it much, but it's a fun car to go out to lunch in or a parts run, such is what we did that day.

That cardboard is from the Chevelle next to it from removing the engine and trans. No leaks present on the 57 that he knows of.

Hopefully I'll be able to help him this summer. It was Cool car

Yeah,. It's a pretty cool body swap. I'm hoping I'll be able to help him get it running again this summer.

Check out my other idle videos if you liked that one. kzbin.info/aero/PLPzZnGnFtWnZdMpzBIrMi7tb8rydbg2Ax

It's useful too.

Wow, you must be using parts store optis? Though not driving it much also likely doesn't help. My original Opti lasted well into the 170 to 180k range beanie needing a cap and rotor. I can't recall how long it really lasted though as I used a Delteq ignition system on it for years and still am.

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage GM parts. Blew first one teaching a Mercedes’ AMG a lesson @145mph. Had a garage check trouble codes. 138 incedents. The Opti they put in died when I was racing my friends ZR1 at Norwalk Raceway Park. Took that one off, and the insides were cracked and it was probably a bad unit from the beginning. So I put my 3 rd. one on GM original part, along with an Electric Water Pump. Ive since semi retired her from the strip. I occasionally run some N2O thru her, but my days doing laps at Norwalk(Summit) are pretty much over. Best time 12.01@114 with 3/4 tank of gas, and the spare and jack in the trunk!

That's interesting to hear, and bad out of the box does happen. What all is done to your car? 12.0 is pretty quick for these boats.

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage AFR Aluminum Ported heads, ZZ9 Cam, Headers, 58mmTB, CAI, 3:73, Aluminum Driveshaft, Eaton Gears, Pinion Snubber Cover, Borla, Billet Wheels, 315-30-17 Drag Radials, Eibach 2in. lowering springs, Rear Control Arms, NX 150 Shot , TB ‘window’ switch turns N2O on at 2500, off at 6000, shifts at 6200. 2800 Stall Converter and shift kit on. 4L60E trans. MSD to pull out timing if my O’2 readings warrant it. Buick Grand National in tank fuel pump.

Hahaha, thanks. I was simply playing around with the editor and random sounds. I thought it was funny so I posted it.

I'm not 100% sure of it, but I think I've read somewhere that the TSP (top street performance) Opti are the optis that Skip White were unsing. The best opti of you can manage to keep the oem sensor alive is to just keep the oem Mitsubishi sensor in good shape. Not always possible and that's where Petris or Skip White came into play. I've never used a Petris opti personally, but have had great luck so far with the TSP units when I need one for a flip car. I keep the Mitsubishi sensors for my own cars when I can.

I agree, MSD are just as hit or miss as the parts store stuff.

We simply couldn't pass it up for $600. Put another $700 into be batteries and it works.. We still need to fix the brakes, door handles and windows but it's been really useful.

Just a matter of opinion. Not everyone likes the same stuff.

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage it's his car he can do what he wants it looks strange with all those add ons

Some guys just don't like stock vehicles. I personally prefer the Caprice over the Impala. I still like his car tough even though I'd have going a different route myself

I’m 22 with a LT1 and she cranked up after sitting for almost 13 years I changed the wire harness and fuel pump , spark plug and wires . What else should I do ? This my first LT1 swap and it only got 70k miles I don’t wanna make no mistakes

What you should do and what I normally do are two different things. The first thing I want to know is if it'll run. You should change the oil and drain the gas, but I usually just put a fresh battery in and try to start it if the fuel pump is still good. If it runs I usually check it over and then change the oil shortly after.

There's an old trick to freeing up stuck engines that are thought to have seized rings too. Put oil or trans fluid down each plug hole and let it sit overnight to try and free it up. Then slowly turn the crank by hand with a breaker bar.

@@boxchevyryder5055 do not change out the entire Opti. Don't just fire the parts cannon (new parts). Hit me up on Instagram if you want goodnewsbadnews_garage. Should be a little easier to chat that way I think.

For future reference, your wiring harness was likely fine, the plugs and wires was a good idea. What is your LT1 in?

It happens. Was still a cool find. May be able to fix them in the future.

@BigAl California, it doesn't belong to me. I was trying to help him get it running correctly for the rest of the season but it'll need to be checked over now due to his buddy running it hot and blowing the head gaskets.

If a wagon would work for you I happen to know where one is for sale in similar condition, but it isn't on a b body chassis.

Check out the full video kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6GteKxjm7-hZ9k

@BaileyXXL, send me a PM through Facebook. The link is in my description on this video.

So, once both of those set screws are out, then it'll loosen up and come off? *Doing a rebuild on a 1973 F350 Tow Truck. This video is the most useful thing I've found thus far on PTO shaft removal.

Wow, really? I was honestly just playing with KZbin live that day. You might need to use a pry bar. To get them off.

@@weylinwest9505 I'm glad it helped you though. I guess I'll take more video when we fix the other minor issues the truck has with the bed.

Nothing compared to yours.

they are no longer made. Street Trends used to make them but they are out of business. You'll have to find one used.

it's not my car, but the grill is long out of production and was made by Street Trends who is now out of business.

U can order the grill from mike Lopez hit me up I can send u the link

Thanks for the info. Lots of people have been asking and as far as I knew there wasn't anyone making anything like them anymore.

This one ended up being just a bad opti. Long story short, I used a different opti all together to test it and that was our problem the entire time. Watch my opti video, link in the description. That's part two of this. Also, it's never a good idea you fire the new parts cannon. Not all new parts are good and most aren't as good of quality as the oem. Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge?

The real problem is he lent the car to someone and it came back with a blown head gasket after having been overheated. Otherwise that radiator gave him zero issues for at least 3 years of regular use and even on Hotrod Power Tour last year before he lent it to his buddy.

@@GoodnewsBadnewsGarage -"The radiator gave him zero problems...", LOL Except for its overheating problem and blown head gaskets. It doesn't matter what I think anyway. It's not my car. Obviously, I would do things differently. Take care.

It's all good. We're all entitled to our own thoughts and opinions. It could be the radiator but considering he had no issues for 3 years daily driving it in going to assume there was something else going on. I might eventually get to fix it for him.

Hahaha. My thoughts exactly, but by the time I thought about it it was too late. I wish I could say it was the worst I've ever had to touch but that's simply not true.

I'm in SC

Hey I'm in sc also that looks like greer drag strip.... do u work on lt1

It was indeed Greer dragstrip. I play with a lot of lt1 cars. Mostly flip cars but occasionally I'll work on one for someone. I'll add a link to my Facebook in the description if you want to add me. Way easier to chat through there.

If you want to hit me up, I started an Instagram finally, goodnewsbadnews_garage

Not so much a poor design as poor placement of the optispark. When kept sealed correctly and good oil seals on the timing cover they work well. GM should have however, at least used the waste spark coil pack design like the early Northstar engines as it was already out there and much better technology, or even the LS based coil packs.

Thank you. I'll go check it out. Hopefully next year I'll be able to help the owner if this car get it running right again.