How do you stop the wood from warping, my 3mm ply goes in flat but once I score with brick texture, it warps the wood like crazy.

Did you put the links in for the station platform/buildings?

Tiptop how-to.

Lovely work, is the coaling stage supposed to be that far back from the shed siding?

Excellent Dan👍 love you tip about paints from the range, these are the real tips we need, how to save money but get useable items , great

Excellent Dan. Good to see an effective method of doing brickwork 👍

Lovely scene - great work.

IGNORANCE IS BLISS !!!! A tiny layout, but riddled with ignorant problematic mistakes !!! It's obviously a pre-BR era layout as indicated by the period clothing and the 1930's car. But the track is Flat bottom which didn't appear until the 1950's, so should be Bullhead track ! Further as Britain seems to be the only country in Europe that's still unaware of the NEM Conference in Germany in the late 1980's, and its implications, usage of this layout is further impaired !!! The NEM conference was intended, to abolish the problems of technical incompatibilities between the various commercial ranges then in production. So track, wheels, couplings & one or two other parts needed to be standardised to ensure any (European) manufacturers rolling stock would work with any other, and interface with one standardised track system. As tooling was improving this also allowed refinement to be included. So the various rail sizes & shapes were refined to Code 75 (75/1000 of an inch high). Wheel profiles to match the new railhead shape, were set at RP25 (Radius Profile 2.5mm). Refined pointwork means narrower flange pathways, as the back to back measurement between wheels increased slightly to cope with the smaller thinner Code 75 rail !!! As this layout still uses pre 1990 British Code 100 coarse track, problems are likely through the points of any model made Post 1990, in that derailments are going to be more likely though the "Frog" area. Clearly the layout is intended to allow passenger trains, which means that even if "One Engine in Steam Block Signalling" rules are adhered too, there is still a requirement for a platform Starter Signal, and an FPL (Facing point Lock) on the point nearest the tunnel, which would mean two point rods from the signal cabin to that point (not one).

vey nice, but one irritant - you are OVIOUSLY not Welsh, but in that language 'u' is pronounced 'ee', and as the proprietor of Modelu has publicly stated, Modelu is pronounced Modelee - actually simply meaning 'models'!

I have made a video on my channel where I make a few more modifications to these turnouts, including sleepers. I think one has to remember that these turnouts date from the 1970's when people ran Lima O gauge. In fact, Lima stock actually runs really well across them! Since the 1970's, our 4mm friends have had their turnouts upgraded about 3 times. These O gauge turnouts are well and truly due an upgrade. I am using them on my 'Salcombe' layout, but quite frankly, they are absolute rubbish. Unfortunately, short of hand building (which I haven't got the time to do). there are no alternatives.

Excellent model but the ends of the check rails and common crossings (frogs) seem to be to set a at a much greater angle than usual on full size, much of the angle is actually created by chamfering one edge. Perhsps check a few preserved railway videos?

awesome , the best i have seen . thank you.

Excellent 👌

Thanks for that , I will be given this a try . All the best .😊

Superb. Useful advice. The sealing with matt varnish is a great idea. I will try using a sponge to dab on the first layers to provide texture (in my particular case) then highlight individual bricks, coat of matt varnish, then smear the mortar colour over. I will try fingers, but will also try a grouting squeegee. All good stuff. Thank you.

Fantastic video Dan enjoyed every bit of it and learned alot😊

Great detail on this layout

watched so many of these vids in prep for my brick painting.....hands down this one is the best.....

Cam I ask how you change the polarity when you spin it round ?

great way...I get similar effects using tippex and rubbing it into the mortar joint. If you dispense with the lacquer you also get a weathering effect on the mortar to varying degrees. As you say you put on or take off as much as you want

absolutely brilliant, and inspiring

When start doing this measure the hook side ways digital capliers then you drill it with the right size drill so get it right not with a hot iron

Thanks for the video! It was a great help.

What is 'buff' ?

Great lay out ! What kind of hanging basket layer is that ? And how do you colour it ?

I bought a length of scale chain from a model boat store. After snipping off a 3-link length of the chain, I shaped another single link into a hook shape using two pairs of long-nosed pliers to grip it, then bored a fine slightly undersized hole in in the centre of the wagon's cross member and dipped the straight end of the hook in glue and holding it with pliers, twisted it back and forth and screwed it into the hole. Then threaded one end of the 3-link chain over the hook and slid it back against where it protrudes from the wagon cross member and glued that link so the chain hung down. So far, I've used this coupling on my O Gauge stock and it doesn't ever become uncoupled when running. It looks authentic too. I'll try the same method on my OO scale layout next using a slightly smaller chain.

I knew they taught us fingerprinting in kindergarten for a reason. Great effect on the brick strip.

Hi can you give me more info on that speaker setup of the church and birds chirping plz. As I’m looking for something like that Many thanks Steve 👌

Fantastic technique, Dan!

Wow! Outstanding.

Ooi, where are the locos stored? 😂

I will try this technique, I have in the past used a Humbrol matt enamel cream to paint the entire wall and then with a stiff bristle artist brush dry brush the acrylic in random directions over it, I too have used black, burnt umber and raw sienna. Dry brushing some thin streaks of black also helps indicate weathering.

Excellent. Top marks for persaverance and very encouraging.

Just over from New Junction channel and thought I would pop in and say Hi and also the baseboards you build for Richard look fantastic. After 50 years in the dark from the last time I put track to board, I have decided now is the time to rekindle that enthusiasm being at a certain point in my life now. Watching NJ really inspired me to get going again and made me realise I have some catching up to do.

Thanks Dan, great video

brilliant

amazing. so skilled. thank you

perhaps if you use a heated small flat screwdriver to make a slot instead of a hole it would be better

fantastic layout

Are you no longer putting out new videos? ☹️

Hi. How much would a layout like this cost Dan ? Rough guide.

Why don’t you assemble the three links first before you attach them to the wagon?

Peter. Is your layout DCC or DC. I like this idea very much.

Hi Dan, 👋 here after seeing your work with oo Neal. Looks like some great video content for me to catch up on. 🤣

Hi Dan, always loved your work, watched several of your videos. No doubt a man in demand , Just curious to know how much you would charge for a southern region diorama 10 feet by 2 feet 50s/60s era. PS. I dont do facebook but would gladly give you my email. Keep up your fantastic work , Jeff

Fab layout.

What ballast do you use? It looks great!

This would make a good TT:120 scale layout for me, as I’ve got a 46 inch by 9 and a half inch shelf unit, plus room for a fiddle yard on a separate board.

A delightful little layout!