@@JorisSteurs Hi Joris. I think you will need to make blocks with matching number of sides to the endmills. In theory the idea of using the shelf to position the cutting face correctly will still work. Cheers Neil

@NellsMechanicalManCave tnx, I was thinking this direction also.

@@WillV8 Hi there.. To remove the headstock/gearbox, first remove the change gears and tumbler assembly. You will see a gap between the base of the gearbox and the lathe bed. Look inside the gap and you will see two plates bolted to the gearbox. These can be removed and the gearbox will then lift off, or you can slide it down the bed. Be careful friend! That gearbox is well heavy ! Dont try and lift it manually or on your own. Cheers Neil

@@NellsMechanicalManCave Thank you so much for the reply Neil much appreciated struggling to find much information on these. Out of interest do you know a rough weight for them Or if its possible to get hold of some sort of manual? No don't worry thanks for your concern Thankfully have access to a forklift to move the lathe about!

@@WillV8 hi again. There isnt any manuals available. You can check the age via the serial number stamped into the bed by the tail stock. Lathes UK have a paragraph or two on " The Master 6 inch" but that's about it. Weight wise I would estimate 1200kgs. The headstock is about 85kgs. Look at some of the later videos of mine and you will see an email address. Drop me a line and I will send my number if you need it so we can chat of WhatsApp info. Cheers Neil

@ Thanks again for the info Neil I’ll drop you an email at some point today cheers 👍🏻

@@Mark1971-1 Hi and thanks for coming by. The coolant was just standard water soluble cutting fluid bought off amazon. I did add too much water that's why it looked weak. All I did was lo9k at the reviews and go from there. On my saw there isn't any brackets to hold it in the vertical position. From standard you lift the saw into the vertical and purely the weight of the motor overhanging the back holds it there. There are no locks or catches to secure it in position. Cheers Neil

Thanks so very much for your reply and your video Neil new sub here and keep up the great work

The part I was trying explain very poorly I might add is the thing that you replaced in part 2 before you added the choke cable too if you still have the original one the measurements of that would be a great help as when I bought my saw second hand that was missing so I’m going to try and make one myself but if you don’t have the time I understand it’s what you called the hold up

@@procalcosmx1142 Hello ! I think you would have to use a hexagon shaped block instead of the square one I used. Thanks for coming by. Cheers Neil

@@NellsMechanicalManCave ok parece buena idea voy a probar y te cuento gracias

@@Streetduck my email can be found at the end of my newest videos

Good call Victor! Sometimes you cant see the wood for the trees, as the saying goes 😊 Cheers Neil

Might be a good idea to watch the two other uploads. The third and last video with +50k views shows how it works. It's very simple and basic but works. Thanks for coming by and commenting. All the very best to you. Neil 😊😊

It will never beat a properly sharpened or new end mill, but it saves a shed load of money replacing slightly blunted or chipped tools. Thanks for coming by, Cheers Neil

It works well 😊😊

Hi Steve and thanks for the kind comment. It was an out of the head idea and design. Works well but as others have mentioned, the ratio needs to be increased. Cheers Neil

Thanks for coming by! It was only done to make life easier for me. If it helps anyone else, it's a massive bonus 😊 Thanks so much for commenting. Cheers Neil

Hi there ! Sorry my friend but I don't work from drawings. I design everything in my head as I make each individual part. That's why sometimes things dont quite work. Think of this as a balance scale or a seesaw. There is more weight on the side that touches the cutting tool so it stays in contact because of gravity. The pointer is directly above the pivot hole and needs to be a minimum of 4 times longer that the distance from the pivot hole to the point where the cutting tool touches. This gives you a ratio of 4:1. That's it really. Make a small seesaw on the table and move the pivot point back and fore. You will see how it can effect the amount of travel. Cheers Neil

Sorry to hear that. I bought from a company in the uk called RDG. They do mail order and sell on ebay. Prices have gone up but are still under $50. Look on Ebay you might get lucky. Cheers Neil

Try this link, $50 on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265256180553?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=m1PNtpB0Tsi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=12o7hixpRZS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@NellsMechanicalManCave Oh, that's much better. Thanks for posting that.

It was only an idea floating around inside my head. If you read some of the comments, you will see that we all decided on a shorter arm that sits on the tool and a longer pointer. Greater ratio so more accurate. Thanks for coming by, Cheers Neil

Hi Bradley. No, I'm afraid I dont know the bearing numbers. It was 1942 and details are very limited. When I'm well enough, I'll take a trip to the workshop and pop a bearing out. I will look for numbers or identifying Mark's and post my findings. Cheers Neil

@@NellsMechanicalManCave Thanks Neil, I hope you feel better soon. If all goes well I'll be picking one of these beasts up tomorrow for about 150 pounds, seller says it just has to go and the headstock is a little wobbly, not sure about the bedways though. Is there anything you can tell me to look out for / test before I buy it? Thanks once again.

​@NellsMechanicalManCave Hi Niel, sorry for the second message but do you know where those axis wheels you have came from? I can see they're quite nice and have obvious divisions for somewhat accurate tool movement but the one I'm looking at has generic handles and no divisions? Thanks once again

That sounds like a great idea ! Cheers Neil 😊😊

Hi, Think I went for a 300 grit. I did a Google search and read a thread in practical machinist that said over 150 and below 500. Over 500 requires water cooling and 1200 gives a mirror finish. Cheers Neil

I did 😊😊 In one of the earlier videos of the build I gave credit to Harold and also Kev who introduced me to the great mans work. Cheers Neil

Hi Scotydog. Us taffy's are a rare breed on here. Been trying to get a 57 year old project (me) operational for the last months. I hope that all the failing bits will be sorted soon and I can get back in the shed and share some ideas. Cheers Neil 😊

@@NellsMechanicalManCave i hope so to mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻 wishing you good health for 2024

Hi Graham, It works well and is quite easy to make. Cheers Neil

I just watched your video on drill sharpening. I see how this block can be used for drill bits. Very clever idea you have 👍🏻👍🏻

If you look at the 2 other videos, it will show you all the parts and how the feeder works 😊😊😊

Sorry,, cant translate your comment 😕😕

Found the translate now. Yes you can sharpen 5 cutting faces. You would need to machine a 5 sided block (pentagon) to hold the cutting tool though. Same goes for a 3 flute cutter. Cheers Neil 😊

Mark !!! That's excellent.... So pleased that one of my ideas has helped someone. As you said, setting a new tool to height is unbelievably quick using this simple tool. Thanks for letting me know, you made my day 😊😊😊 Cheers Neil

Hi Grey, As stated,, increase the ratio between the arm and the indicator pointer. Other than that , it works great. Thanks fir coming by 😊 Cheers Neil!

Hi David. It works well but,,,,, The ratio between the arm and indicator needs to be greater and a real bearing used at the pivot point. When I get back in the workshop I will make these changes myself. Thanks for coming by and commenting, Cheers Neil

I'll look now for you.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/iniyaZumbdtjoc0si=ZFoqZD7gZ1nvBb2U

Ty, I got it

Hi, The idea came from a book by Harold Hall and Mr Factotum ( Kev) did a few videos on the design. I don't know the exact name of the book but Kev mentions it so it's easy to look up. Cheers Neil.

Hj. I got my wheel from a company in the UK called RDG Tools. Their Web address is www.rdgtools.co.uk Go to the search on the site and look up flat diamond grinding wheel. They are on Ebay too. Sorry I can't do a link, I tried and failed Cheers Neil

Hi. This bench grinder runs at 2800rpm. I was careful to buy a diamond wheel that had a higher maximum speed. To my best recollection the wheel is rated at 3500rpm. Thanks Neil

@@NellsMechanicalManCave The engine speed is not for the diamond cup, but the speed for the cutter when it is in the robot

@@Сутьділа there are charts on the Internet to show rotation speed of the cutter and also travel over the cutting surface. A lot depends on the size of cutter and also the material being machined. I am not a machinist and mostly guess

@@NellsMechanicalManCave The cutter is 16 mm, the metal is regular black steel, grade 3, and steel 45 is not hardened. Manual feed is slow. And another question, the smaller the cut, the higher the speed? Thank you, I'm just starting to master the router...

@@Сутьділа Small cuts at high revolution speed gives good surface finish. Coolant or light oil also helps with finish. Cheers Neil 😊😊

Sorry, can't find a way to translate and sadly I'm not that clever enough to speak or read any other language. Britain isn't that great in all honesty. Many thanks Neil 😊

Sorry Eddie, Didn't see your comment. I think it's a very basic tool but can save money in a small shop. Things are very expensive at the moment and any saving means spare money for other items. Hopefully things will get easier and I can buy materials again soon 😊 Thanks Neil