Kind of odd take on strong drp ,are there really that many people who do absolutely no tweaking on their jpegs? Better to thing of strong drp as a sort of s-log for those of us who would rather shoot jpegs and have a strong preference of protecting our highlights.

So the further you go to the west the higher the number gets??? Doesn’t make any sense to me..

How do you know each of those is 30 min???

the aperture,iso and shutter speed is not showing on my xh2s display.. how do i fix it

John thank you for this video. You are the only one I’ve found who clearly explained in a methodical way which is easily understood. Coming from the fuji system the Nikon auto iso seemed non-sensical. This video went beyond simply telling me how to use it, it gave me insight into Nikons thought process and how the PASM dial integrates with it. Many thanks, and I look forward to watching more of your videos.

I've had a Z6II for about 4 years and now I bought a Z8 and this the first time I've heard about this. Thanks a lot.

anybody cant change the language of the app? cant take this off german. how to chance the language ? cant find

This is the best example and explanation of exposure compensation i have ever seen. Well done. Subscribed and following.

OK, but if you already have your aperture wide open, and can't go any lower on your shutter speed at ISO 12,800 (top native) and picture would still be under exposed, should you not then use the extended ISO to 25,600 or 51,200?

I love the angled map and the airspace overlay. It would be helpful if what is being read from the map was consistently highlighted on the map. Sometimes a presenter will be talking about ceilings at some airport and I'll be off looking at mountain heights and whatnot, not knowing where they're looking / talking about.

It's always helped me to think of class-E airspace from the top down, rather than from the ground up. Unless inside class-B, class-C, or class-D airspace: (1) Class E *_starts_* below 18'000 MSL and extends _down_ to 1,200' AGL Everywhere. Period. (2) Inside the thick magenta shaded area, class-E transitions _down_ from 1,200' to 700'' AGL. (3) Inside the dashed circle (if present) class-E extends all the way _down_ to the surface. (4) Class-G airspace is any air *below* class-E (5) Finally, there are no class-F airspaces in the U.S. But they do exist in other countries. The FAA airspace designations follow the ICAO (International Civil Aviation Organization) guidelines. Excellent video, btw!!

I'm sitting here laughing at how easy this is... I am studying for my part 107 but I have more challenges then most people. I often work 12 hour days and many are 14 hr days so study time comes at a premium. But everything I've seen so far seems so cut and dry organized that it's just not difficult at all. I plan to watch more of your videos as I build my knowledge base. As it stands right now, my ultimate goal is to pass the 107 then the Night Flight testing that I understand is a separate animal. Ultimately I want to do all the Commercial work that I choose, real estate, S&R, Surveillance, etc. I'll be 65 in a few months and when I retire, I want something fun and meaningful to do and earn money in the process.

Panasonic s1r is better when shifted but I like fuji

Just to add one more data point: MF Sony E mount lenses adapted to the Nikon Z mount with either the Neewer or Funmount E-to-Z adapters will activate manual focus subject detection on the Zf body. Unfortunately, the Megadap adapter which provides by far the best AF performance with adapted Sony glass does not enable manual focus subject detection. I own both Megadap and Funmount adapters. My manual focus E mount Laowa, Pergear, and Voigtlander 35mm and 50mm Apo-Lanthars activate the focusing aids on the Zf when using the Funmount adapter. I've read that the Neewer adapter (which appears to be a rebranded Funmount) also works this magic.

Hello and thank you for this great and helpful video. While trying to understand how this simulation wheel works on my new XM-5 camera I somehow changed a setting of "C" command to Velvia and have no idea how to re-set it back to "Control" that overrides all other simulations and adjustments. So, could you please help me to figure out that? Thank you so much and have a fantastic day. Mike.

Increíble aportación, muchas gracias

At about 2:17 into this superb video is for me the MOST important issue for those struggling with NON FUJI lens with no Aperture switch ie like Sigma. That is the change in colour issue and the lens changes from A to P . Had some fun with this issue and finally "penny dropped" as got me self into the SH!T on that and even went online to a forum and they explained it BADLY such as switch power off and or take lens off.

Thank you!

How does the 47 degrees 40 minutes N work? At the 47 degree mark you would only be going North 10 minutes to reach that airport? Do you subtract 30 minutes? I thought the 47 degree mark and 48 degree mark were just 30 minutes apart.

Hey u okay ı Just WANna ask u someting ı cant fix ı m a tattoo artist but ı dont knkw how ı can make my setup witj fujifilm xt50 please help

It looks like the mechanical shutter makes the snow and ice disappear. 🙂 Just a joke... Great explanation!

This was super helpful! Those map questions kept stumping me

I watched this along with the online quiz and passed today 🎉

Thanks for this video.... ❤❤❤❤

Very helpful explanation. Thanks

Right on. I'm increasingly surprised by the number of (especially young) people who consider themselves "a photographer" who are really litlle more than a "computer operator" who mostly just "turns it on" with a shutter trigger. And if there's something (even basic" that is "off" in the photo(s), they are essentially clueless about what caused it or how to fix it next time. And the concept of making a fairly large PRINT has rarely occurred to them, much less been done. Meanwhile, they're told by social media that what they do is "fine art" if all they did in post was click through 73 of the 100 filter-preset pack (made by someone else) which they bought online for $37 "this week only" until they found one filter that looks cool but have no idea what it did, why, nor how to adapt and apply it to another photo with different characteristics and get the same cool look.

Thanks, very informative. Purely coincidentally, this is an area I have been experimenting/playing with over the past couple of weeks. My broad conclusion is that any setting that is "Strong" (DR400) produces images that are washed out, flat and look artificial. At the moment, setting the Tone Curve to S (shadows) -1 or -2 gives me what I want. Horses for courses and all that!

Good point on the custom settings. Going from my X-T2 to the X-T5 I was disappointed all my settings were not saved with each custom “film recipe” I created. I had to go back in to my 3 most used ones and change the settings for each one. Other than that, I love my new X-T5!

And could it be fully disabled?

Im using 27mm prime lens and the lens doesnt have an aperture ring. Is there any other ways to change the aperture since both dial on my xt30 is not working

That might be an exercise for new photographers or those who just take burst of anything. But there are many situations where you can't control everything that happens or even can't control every detail on the viewfinder afterwards, only at home at a large monitor. In that cases taking some more pictures is not wrong. Not speaking of sports, animals or events where you have to react to often unforeseeable actions. Or where you use highspeed function to overcome lighting problems by shooting enough pictures to get even one sharp. I have the opposite problem. I started with film. I saw the restriction with underwater photography. You have 36 picture for one dive. How many do you keep for later ? Maybe a whaleshark swims near you at the end of the dive. Or there is absolutely nothing of interest in the end and the remaining pictures are lost, because you neer a fresh film for the next dive. Today with digital I still take too few pictures (e.g. at a trip). Composition might have been OK, but there was some detail I didn't see at controling the picture. Or there are moving parts and in the end every picture shows something I don't like. I need to do MORE pictures with different angles and with more details of everything or even use the highspeed function, which to me as a former film guy still is weird.

WOW! GREAT VIDEO!! IT'S LIKE FUJI CORRECTED FRAME FOR DUMMIES TO FOLLOW ALONG! YOU'VE EXPLAINED IT SO CLEAR THAT A DUMMY WOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM GETTING IT!!!! THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! 🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾

Thank you for the easy to understand explanation of this technique!

Many thanks John very helpful as usual. You stand out from other channels by offering essential advice which others overlook!

Thank you ..very helpful ..

Trying to set mine up but the lens modulation optimizer is greyed out. Can someone tell me how to fix that?

John; Help!: I keep finding conflicting information regarding all of class E requiring authorization. I was convinced that as you say; onlu Clasee E SFC requires authorization the I found this video that sent me to this FAA page. Thank You! kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3WTaK2hZaljb6s www.faa.gov/sites/faa.gov/files/about/initiatives/airshow/UAS_Airspacecard.pdf

Dang. I rented an X100F and now I have the X100V and I can't use the V to process the old RAWS in studio? :( :(

I do wish Fuji could make an app that you don't need to connect the camera to edit the photos via memory card or file on pc

Thank you! I just purchased the ZF and there's a lot to learn. I've owned the D810 and the Z7II, which I gave to my daughter. The ZF will be a great camera to walk around with.

So... 1. Auto ISO can be set via the menu but for some reason it cannot be set via the quick menu unless the dial is on C. Nonsense 2. Unless used in M and in conjunction with ISO 200 selected in maximum sensitivity setting, the ISO dial is pretty useless. 3. In A and P the ISO dial sets a specific ISO value when that selection is greater than the max ISO. I cannot think of any circumstance I would need that. I may need to set ISO 25600 as my ceiling but don't have any particular fondness towards that specific ISO... 4. The behaviour in S mode is odd. Like in M mode the ISO dial will work for setting the max ISO. However the camera will try to keep the ISO at the highest setting while keeping the aperture at its highest value (in a given situation it would give ISO 20000 f16) The only setting that makes sense is that of #2 as suggested by others here. In manual mode only, auto ISO with max sensitivity at 200 and then using the dial for setting the desired ceiling. The rest is really nonsense and incredibly bad design.

I use Nikon digital cameras, after years of using Nikon FM2s because of cost of slide film which I used and its processing. That said, I treat my shooting excursions as if I am shooting film and try to see how many images I like from shooting 36 images at an outing.

Great My vote, for general still photography, is Classic Chrome (if I do not want to edit) and Pro-Neg Standard (if I do want to edit). Thank you for creating this content.

That‘s why I‘be bought some 2GB cards. They give me around 50 exposures if I shoot RAW.

Very good script and well presented. Thank you.

I'll suggest a couple of caveats here: first, the problem obviously isn't the capacities that digital provides. The 'problem' is that there are some people, as there have always been, who don't take the time to assess all the variables in order to put a decent photo together. This was true with film, as it is true with digital, simply because while the tech has changed dramatically, people are essentially the same. But is this actually a 'problem'? It's only potentially a problem if you're someone who wants to 'improve' their photography... and many people who take photos probably aren't that fussed, which is fine. There are any number of shit golfers and tennis players for exactly the same reason, but they're having fun and they don't care (and neither should i). Moving on... 'spray and pray'. What i don't like is that this term is mainly used as a generalized disparagement while completely overlooking its photographic utility. The capacity for 'spray and pray' has brought us many of the most captivating and peculiarly unique images of the last thirty years. While it has made for little impact in certain genres - ie Architectural photography, others - ie sports and wildlife - have been transformed. The idea that thought, care, effort and understanding hasn't gone into getting these images using 'spray and pray' is just not universally true - it's actually the only way that these images were ever realistically attainable. One last point... the film era is (also) awash with rubbish photos - incompetence, laziness and the determination of the Professional using a bulk film-back to capture hundreds of images in order to get the one good shot have all contributed to the pile. All those sheets of negatives being reviewed with the occasional frame being circled... the career of a recognized Master in the Craft defined by a scant few images - photography has long been a numbers game. Cheers.

A simple counter solution is a knitting stitch counter. Clover makes one that all you have to do is click the top and it auto advances, goes up to 99.

Digital Photography brought me actually back into photography because i could learn without going to the lab every time to find out that NONE of them were awesome. So i gave up photography in the nineties and restarted again in zeros. Now I’m shooting less pictures and some times i don’t press the shutter because i know the picture will not be good. I want to have more keepers nowadays. I like to think first about the shot even if i can store 1000 of them in my camera.

Hey John, thank you so much. If I wanted to change the sequence of my custom settings on my camera, how would I do that? For example, if I have Padilla set as number three on my camera, how could I change it to the first custom setting without changing everything, thank you so much.

Why would you ever need a map like this for flying drones? Isn’t this more for actual pilots? When am i ever going to need to communicate with flight controllers? Why would I need to know about landing at an airport? It seems like this test is designed around future regulations which haven’t been implemented yet, such as mandating that drone pilots use radios like a real airplane every time they fly.