Yeah being able to lockout known spots where my K band goes off from random junk would be a great feature, if I were to get really serious with detectors, I'd get an R7.

@@ubuntulinuxrules By the way, if you want an R4, they are cheap at sams club right now ~$240

With all the fluid and filter receipts, brake job receipts, tire and alignment receipts, and every repair ever done to this car, I just about calculate my grandmother and I to have collectively put $19,187 into this car over the course of 20 years, now not all of that is maintenance just to keep it running, some of that is repair to preserve the car like the headliner falling down, or various little things breaking, but I still throw it in because I did spend the money and I don't want to leave anything out, I know this sounds like an astronomical amount of money, but the car's 21st birthday is tomorrow, which means it has cost its owners less than $1000 a year if you break it down like that, and we have never had a breakdown.

@ubuntulinuxrules Thanks for your quick response. I agree. On average, the total spent is not bad over that many years. I have a 2017 with 141,000 miles and counting. I do alot of highway driving. Keep up the good work and keep us updated on the car!

@4Runner21 I've been running the duralast struts since December of 2020 for the past 39,000 miles and they've been fantastic, the car goes down the road like OEM new, however if you do purchase them and you own a 4 cylinder Accord, have your original springs on the front struts swapped onto the new ones so that the front of your car sits at the correct ride height, and rides as soft as it should with the correct spring rate of the 4 cylinder accord springs that originally came with your car.

​@@ubuntulinuxrulesSome struts and springs come assembled. Do you recommend this rather than only placing the strut and keeping the old OEM springs? Btw if this information is useful for others, it seems OEM strut and spring assembly are no longer being sold. You must buy them separately.

@@MMa-eo1yw My duralast struts did come pre-assembled, but the front struts came with springs made to hold up the heavy front end of an Accord V6 or Acura TL, they will still work in a 4 cylinder Accord or Acura TSX, but the front end will sit too high and have a stiff ride, I mention swapping your original front springs over to save anyone the trouble I had of having incorrect springs, and thinking they bought low quality parts for their car, becsuse it doesn't matter if you had the most expensive bilstein struts on an Accord, it would ride very crappy if your springs are too stiff and not the correct ones for the weight of the front your car.

@txaccord Thanks Justin, I wanted to show any perspective buyers of these things the good, the bad, and the ugly.

Yeah, unfortunately these 7th gen Accords are getting so up there in age that the A/C compressors themselves are starting to fall apart, either that or the actual compressor relay has died and can be cheaply replaced, but if the relay is still good, then the compressor itself has died.

I really appreciate it, man.

It gives false alarms quite often, store doors, Mazda blindspot monitoring that happens to be exactly on K band, those speed signs on the side of the road shooting K band in various directions, it's nothing to do with the detector, a more expensive radar detector with K band enabled would get false alerts because so much "junk" uses it. That's the benefit of more expensive detectors like the Uniden R3, you can actually disable K band frequencies if you live in an area where police don't use it (KA band detection is police nearly 100% of the time), but now you're going from a $54 radar detector, to a $300 radar detector (with increased range and features), but if you're just looking for a very basic, plug it in and go, cheap radar detector with good range for what it is, and you don't mind false K band alerts (some police actually do use K band for enforcement in certain states), then I'd still recommend a DFR1, but do not get it if you hate false K band alerts, you cannot disable any of the bands except X band in City1 mode, which is pointless because it's technology that's not even used.

The $50 Uniden DFR1 is absolutely a good first radar for someone to get into this stuff and understanding how it works and how law enforcement uses it, before graduating onto more expensive units like the R3 and beyond.

At the BARE MINIMUM I would get a Whistler Z-19R+. More settings than the DFR1. At the very least I would get a Uniden DFR7. Otherwise, if you have the budget, get a Uniden R3.

It's better than nothing for about the $50 they want for it, the 2+ miles a cheap radar detector like this can see in front can prevent you from being ticketed by a radar speed trap if the officer is actively transmitting with a radar unit, so speed with caution and dont do anything too crazy on the freeway, because they don't always have radar on and might be around, this is merely a driver aid.

I just run with it in highway mode all the time (orange line only showing on the display), the reason why you're encountering cops and not hearing a "whoop whoop" alert is because the cop has their radar unit off and there's nothing to detect unless they're actively doing speed enforcement on the freeway or something and are using it, as for the random beeps, that is the detector false alerting to K band things like store doors that open when you walk up to them, the lane assist from other cars (Mazdas love to set it off), or possibly even one of those little speed signs that use K band to detect your speed and show a reading of how fast your car is going. Unfortunately being a cheap detector with no settings, you can't disable K band to prevent false alerts, you just kinda get used to if it's false alerting or not and can hit the mute button on it when you're in an area where you know there's non police radar in the area.

@@ubuntulinuxrules ohhh ok thank you bro! What’s C I? It’s the second option I believe

@@Calvintheicon The "City" mode basically makes it take 2 bars worth of signal to make the X band frequency go beep beep, and "City 1" disables X band entirely, I honestly don't know why they even bothered with this, because X band radar is technology from the 1970s that no one uses anymore, which makes the City modes no different than Highway, I'd just keep it in highway mode and mount the unit nice and level in the center of your windshield where it can pick up the most radar signals, because as simple and cheap as this unit is, it is something you'll want to have on the highway in case police are running a speed trap and turning the radar on and off, it's better than nothing.

@@ubuntulinuxrules thank you bro! Thats true. I’m going to use highway mode. What was weird today was I was driving down the freeway and there was an undercover and it actually made my radar beep!!

@@Calvintheicon That's awesome, glad it was able to work for you.

No problem at all, I too was disappointed in in the lack of videos showing just how far the detector could see ahead of it in a good case scenario, with constant-on radar source, flat road, and actually clocking the distance. I do believe in a perfect case scenario, on a long, flat open highway, the range could go well beyond 2.3 miles, I was in the city, after all.

The detector does plug into your car's 12v outlet for power.

Thanks Justin, the V6s don't seem to have the issue as often as the 4 cylinder cars, Honda really should've made PCV valve a 30K maintenance item because the car drinks oil like mad even on a perfect engine like mine when it goes bad, Keep doing what you're doing, I've even got my car decked out with Weathertechs and Falken Ziex on the wheels so I can get like you because it clearly works.

@@ubuntulinuxrules I've also seen people on DA talk about doing piston soaks with Marvel Mystery Oil to help the oil burning situation. I've enjoyed sharing what I've used and how long things have lasted. I always enjoy reading your comments and appreciate you watching my videos.

Keep the great content coming, and cleaning up the rings is definitely the best way to reduce consumption, I think what's kept the engine so nice in the 6 years since my grandmother gifted me this car, is the short 3000 mile intervals with synthetic oil, that might sound excessive, but strong additive packs and detergents that never get a chance to break down will clean engine so well, that it may develop an oil leak if you've got crusty seals like I did.

oh hi am a t&f fan