@thyspoelma7413 that was a horrible job to finish.in the end I was glad just to have it finished

@@mistermekus. foxwell nt630plus.

Thanks Geoff,what model viking is it so I can update the video description

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs it's a Viking MT 785

No but I'm pretty sure the fuses for them are the tube style fuse and are on the board

I'm not sure to be honest,checking Peter Finns video's could be worth while

You are welcome.best thing though the belts last a long time

@@joatamonmodsandrepairsJust bought replacement for a mower that is 21 years old and has done a mountain of work on the original belt. Snapped yesterday. This video is very useful. 👍

Unbolt the front sensors and clean the contacts first.wheel bearings will howl when worn,jack car and rock the wheel in and out from top and bottom.the juddering feeling could be the brake caliper sliders needing grease,if you have alloys you should be able to push the caliper by hand and hear a light clunk. Oh the main issue I had was frightening, my car would feel like after driving off the first few metres that the brakes were locking and release then be absolutely fine until I turned the car off and started again

@joatamonmodsandrepairs thanks for the reply, going to have a look at it tomorrow so I'll give them a good clean and inspect for any obvious faults. Really weird feeling in the pedal, if you let the car idle along in first gear with light pressure on the pedal, you'd think a brass band was playing in the footwell while a springing sound is heard clearly, almost sounds like it goes from side to side, which makes me suspect abs. Car does it coming to a stop with the ignition off also, which made me suspect servo as it's sprung and should still be vacuumed for a few pumps, while I assume the Abs is off due to the ignition being off. Not really sure where to start apart from cleaning abs components, as you mentioned. I'll maybe see if the abs is fused separately and test without the abs in play

If you are lucky it might only be the squellers on the brake pads letting you know they need to need to be changed .for testing the abs sensors you can jack the car and do ohms reading's off the sensors with a multimeter,I think 1a auto has that video available

​@joatamonmodsandrepairs cheers, I'll test the sensors too. New discs and pads on her recently but this issue wasn't immediately after so not sure if the two are linked. Fingers crossed it's something relatively obvious, don't want to end up down an abs rabbit hole changing sensors

I ordered a genuine honda carburettor ,perfect match and I think it only cost 40 euro more ,it was either that or change the throttle cable too but if you are one of the lucky ones you might be able to swap the cap on the cable

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs can’t , I would have had to run a whole new cable! What I ended up doing is just cleaning the carburetor

Be gentle with the bolt holding the sensor onto the hub assembly, spray with wd40 and work the bolt in out and to clear the threads

It's most likely it actually bent as I was taking the clutch off

I've recently done one on a 110cc tao tao and had to use parts off the old carb. When possible genuine parts all the way

Lift the seat on the left side you'll see a plastic lever that sticks down towards the battery area,, it's pressing a half moon switch, wedge it with a piece of cardboard or you can adjust the plastic lever by loosening the two size eight lock nuts and pulling the lever back to press the seat switch constant with just the weight of the seat,,, I personally wouldn't recommend ever bypassing a seat switch but that's how it's done

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs Thanks bit on my castlegarden it's wires that are connected and even disconnecting those don't turn it off

They have to stay constantly pressed to be bypassed, simply disconnecting the wires upsets the brake switch. If you have the switch off and the wires accessed you can put a fuse on the two wires

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs sorry for annoying you but what do you mean by putting a fuse on them. There is 3 wires. 2 dark brown wires and 1 lighter colour brown wire. Could I cut the switch off and join the 3 of them together or is that the wrong thing to do

Ohh,to be honest I'm not familiar with that, I've only came across them with two on the small castle gardens, have you a 102 deck on yours

So as you are seated on the mower on the right side of the deck has the spring loaded pully, put the belt on all pullies except the crank shaft, lever the spring load pully towards the front of the deck (18inch lever bar or similar) then slip the belt around the crank, be careful the spring back is strong.

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs thanks a million for the reply,i finally got it on,belt seems very tight still though,the spring is nearly at full stretch and when i engage the blades the engine dies but if i give it a bit more rpm its ok,is this normal?

Always run the deck on full throttle (revs). Your spring tension pully should now be fairly close to horizontal to your mandrel pully, I will try to reply with an image

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs so run the engine at full trottle and then engage the blades? That would be great,thanks so much 👍

It'll be spot on at that, going lower revs will cause the belt to slip when trying to cut, it'll give you a low lifespan on the belt. I can't seem to attach a picture so I've uploaded a short video look for Paul craftsman lt2000. I'm easily getting 1 year per belt doing over half an acre

Strange, with the cheap ones it seems to be the throttle cap is too small

@@joatamonmodsandrepairs The one used in the video and mine also, both had throttle caps that were too big. I'm fairly sure that I have the same carb as in the video. Crazy how the vacuum tubes are routed so differently than the OEM carb.

@@ChrisHiblerPinball What is the air and fuel mixture screws set at on the carburetor you did not show it in the video I'm having issues adjusting the carb on my Honda recon on 250 to the right spec Without falling the plug or burning it up its a 04 honda recon es 250TE

@@raymondfroehlich9494 Regrettably, it was too long ago for me to remember the answer to your question. But, after watching so many rebuild videos, I set mine the same as all of those were set.

I'll have to check for you later, but I'm pretty sure it's pz30

There's a steel snap ring clip, 45 seconds into part 7 video you can it up against the new bearing.