I just use the iPhone. I am planning to get a lapel mic soon, because the sound isn’t great when you have to play with the levels in iMovie to try and make it all a similar volume. Best of luck with your channel!

@ I picked up a Mic for $35.00 on Amazon and it made a huge difference! My first two videos had horrible sound quality. I’ve been toying with the idea of buying a camera, but I’m thinking of just learning to use the IPhone better. Good luck to you, see ya out there.

Thanks, I appreciate it. A lapel mic is coming in early 2025. I am currently doing my research so it's hopefully a buy once, cry once purchase. That is a great point about the allergens, and totally my fault for forgetting that in my wood reviews. Some imports really set off some allergies or bad reactions in people. I can only work with true Rosewoods for a few days or so at a time before I start to get some reddish tones appearing on my exposed hands and forearms. I know that some people consider them to be "sensitizers", and working with them more will actually make you react worse over time, so taking a break between working with it can help. Cheers!

@MMWoodworking @MMWoodworking if you covered everything your videos would be hours long. Still made great points. I've heard good things about rodes, no personal experience with them. I've seen creators also mount a mic on a boom overhead that worked well if your staying in one place. That would do double duty for voice-over mic too. Best of luck!

It's definitely worth trying at least once! I was intimidated a bit at first, because it has a bit of a higher price tag than domestics, and I was worried I would screw up and waste it, but it is now going to be my go to wood for those really special projects, the ones where you want them to last a lifetime and look good through it. Cheers.

I did, but I don't remember when. I clamped my dial indicator down, threw in my nicest forstner bit, and iirc it was may 2 thou, two to three, something like that. I was pleased with it. I should reset it sometime. I am always afraid to toy with a tool too much when it is running well.

Thank you! I know that feeling about not wanting to touch the blade. I always run it by the blade when it isn't moving to see if the light flashes as a trip. I'm glad you like the gauge too!

No issues. I have used the full kerf glue line rip, a 50 tooth combo, and more recently a thin kerf rip and I have had no issues with the blades. There was a thin kerf 60 tooth for a minute, but I returned it due to deflection on some thick bevel cuts. No issues with sawstop and the blades, though. That being said... if you plan to use the thin kerf blades, you need to do through cuts or you can get deflection. On the full kerf glue line rip I loved to just skim the edge of boards to get a fresh clean edge, but I realized really quickly on the normal thin kerf rip that if the board was over 3/4, and a hardwood, there would be a tiny bit of blade deflection and it would leave some marks. As long as there is wood on both sides, the thin kerf rips leave a great finish, and the glue line ones are even cleaner. I have glued tons of stuff right off of both the full kerf glue line rip and the thin kerf normal rip blade. Best of luck!

@@MMWoodworking Thanks for the great response. I have a Tenryu thin kerf on my SawStop now and it does amazingly well. But I'm going to start buying 8/4 rough sewn lumber, since I just got my first planer. The Tenryu combo might struggle with that. Saw the Freud glue line blades but they have shoulders... but not sure I care at this point :)

Yeah, do it however works best for you. I find with my square it is easier to use with physical contact as I don't need to rely on feel to align with the miter slot. I have my blade and slot aligned with my dial indicator, so it makes no difference to me. As always, test cuts are really your best way to know.

Not with the slot - with the bar. It’s easy to put the square’s handle on the bar and the square's blade along the fence. Don't have to even be near the tablesaw.

A few reasons. First, different woods soak in different amounts, so saying X number of coats is always right is not possible. Some woods will sink in three coats and some will basically reject a second coat until a year later (looking at you oily African and South American woods). Second, imo most people don't put enough on and don't let it sit long enough, so a second and third coat can help make up for that. Third, it adds some minor water and dirt protection with more coats. If you get the subsurface properly coated you buy yourself a bit more time if you were to spill some water and needed to wipe it off. Fourth, it will generally increase the time between needing to re-coat. Lot's of DIY people go to the box store and buy it because their furniture looks "dry". They will get longer between reapplication, especially if they don't do it right the first time, by doing two or three coats in a three day span. Finally, it will eventually build one up, and imo you can sort of control the level more than Tung Oil Blends, so if you just want the lightest little film look it will allow you to find the sweet spot, albeit with more time consumed doing so. In the end, it is primarily an aesthetic finish. It's meant to pop the wood, and more coats (2-3) will keep that color longer between re-application.

Thank you! I really appreciate the kind words.

I think you are correct. Just went back and looked at the manual (mine is from a few years back), and now I see why I missed it. There is no reference to this in mine. After a bit of googling it appears like someone contacted Rikon around 2020 and it was a manual mistake. Thanks for the update!

Thanks! This build is all done without a planer, so as long as you have a table saw this one is definitely doable. Everything was done with box store pine and a few edited out swear words along the way.

@ ha! Been there! Of the larger tools I do have a table saw, miter saw, and router so I could probably do this

You almost had me, Steve. I had to hit the delete key a lot and restart this. Username saving the day.

The drill press does not go in reverse. It's likely an optical illusion you are seeing, much like a propeller on a an airplane.

I don’t know what tissue log paper is, unfortunately. Is that veneer? If so, yes, but it’s not the best for that. You would want something bigger with a bigger motor if its primary purpose was veneer. As for the cost, you’d need to email the manufacturer. I don’t know what international shipping costs are. I’m sorry I can’t help more.

Amazon. I had to buy some kit that had 10 different sizes and a million of each, but was under $15 bucks. It was Glarks, or something like that. I just searched retaining ring washer, but I didn’t know the exact size, as I lost mine too, so I went with the 10 size kit.

Thank you! I really appreciate the feedback. Anything helps, both positive and negative.