Theres no more air bubbles because you tighten the threads and not let air inside the bleeder valve. You had it way to lose earlier and let air inside that chamber, creating bubbles. 😂

bleeder is wayyyyy too loose.... air is coming in via the bleeder threads and up into the fluid going out of the hose. The silicon paste sealed the threads, keeping air from being sucked in... that is why bubbles stopped.

I can't see anything

Africa tech

Bullshit

Now you need a new brake hose, you damage the inner part.Its a hose inside of a hose to hold pressure.You absolutely never pinch a brake line.You will also need a paint job as brake fluid cause the paint to become soft and eventually just fall of the surface.

Just about to say the same thing

Now you have silicone paste in your brake line. Just crack the bleeder and put grease around the base of the bleeder.

Thanks mate

I've heard and seen this before, but this is a great visual of how the bubbles appear different from air in the system. Thanks

Do you remove the old tail pipe or just put this over top of the existing tail pipe??

Bro, your getting air because you had the bleeder screw completely unscrewed? All you need to do is slightly crack the screw and you'll never get air like that?

Genius! Thanks!

Needed louder music in background

dont use a patroleum based product anywhere near the brake system....it swells the rubbers ...SYL GLIDE brake grease is compatible with brake fluid....I use a little on the bleeder threads to stop air when I vacuum bleed the brakes

Kyla Mountains

No thread sealant is made for this purpose and is more permanent rather than silicone paste. Started usimg thread sealant after I loosen any brake bleeder valve because over time the threads of the caliper and bleeder valve dont interface

😂😂😂

Looks like he's sucking air.Where the bleeder valve is because he has it open too much probably i've never had that problem

This is a completely unnecessary step.

just raise your bottle and line above your caliper or brake cylinder , solved

Thanks so much - that has saved me a pile of pain!

Thank you!

Did you notice the bubbles stopped when you pinched the line, and then the final shot you hadn't unpinched it? 1. Never pinch the line. 2. The bubbles are from the Venturi effect and are not an issue if you're taking fluid out the bleeder (if you push in through the bleed you do risk pushing bubbles in).

👌

very helpful the trik with silikon because i was having air bubles unstoppable in the last bleedin valve fron right tire .thanks you solve my problem

Why don’t you just open the bleeder screw and let the air come out?

Don't use silicone or other thing otherwise the silicone will end up as debris, which will be formed a clog

I use Anti- Sieze on my threads

I see a lot of people here are not understanding this, but I get it...when using a one man bleeder, air will get in around the threads of the bleeder screw. I use to bleed by myself, just teflon the threads, and don't tighten it in all the way....then you can basically just stick a piece of hose on the nipple, and put the other end submerged in brake fluid. I never understood why they haven't invented a better bleed screw, like something 2 piece with an oring, where air cannot enter

This is air entering after the bleeder, thats not a problem.

Hi i just installed this exhaust tip but the screws can barely gets screwed in as my pipe is almost the size of this tip and barely slided in. So it appears screws projecting so much outside like i feel to drill holes but then this pipe is rusted as well. Actually even without screws this exhaust tip is so tight. It looks cool fron outside and barely inside bumper arc. Just the only concern is i cant fit in those screws.

If the air bubbles only appear when the bleeder valve is loose then that means there is no air in the brake system so wouldn’t just tightening the bleeder valve just fix the problem?

Thanks You help me a lot....😅

Teflon tape works also.

If the bleeder screw is gunked up, you have bigger issues than just a screw !

my car battery went dead while bleeding my brakes. After i finished the brake flush, i jumped the engine but then immediately the check engine light turned on. I went to autozone and code ABS malfunction and traction off showed up on dash. not knowing what to do, i removed the battery, check engine light turned off for now but for how long?

Funny Video !!!1 take of the drums and clean it up inside !!! Donkey

I'm never pinching a brake line closed but thanks for trying

Why dont you remove the clamp at the final? Of course the bubble still stop if the clamp remain on the hose

It's not a bad idea to remove the bleeder screw when doing a brake bleed. If it's crusty or damaged at all, replace it. No need to pinch the hose, just make sure the reservoir if full. The system will continue to gravity bleed for the short time the screw is out as well as flush out the bleeder port. It's a bad day when an old bleeder screw shears off. As well I always pressure or gravity bleed. Siphoning or vacuuming seems counter intuitive to air freeing.

The diagnosis is correct but you could do better by replacing the bleeder screw with a new one. I had the same issue with my front driver's side brake bleeder screw. Constant bubbles through the line. I'd let the master cylinder get too low when doing a brake fluid change but thought 'there's no way there's that much air in the system'. Noticed the bleeder screw was a bit loose so just as an experiment, I tried a little Teflon tape around the threads. Bubbles stopped flowing. Considered just leaving it that way with the tape but thought 'these are the brakes, this is serious'. Bought a new bleeder screw and put 2 wraps of Teflon tape just for some insurance. The brake fluid flowed perfectly clear. Finished checking the other brake caliper and have perfect brakes now.

There isn't much fluid in a bike system. As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled. One pump at a time and check the master. Remember if you do it this way there is no need to open and close the bleeder. You can't draw air into the system if the end of the tubing is submerged. This is by far the easiest and most effective one-person method to bleed a system. By the way, there is no need to open the bleeder more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Unscrewing it more than that is one reason you are getting those tiny bubbles in the first place. The other reason is that you are pumping the brake with the bleeder closed. That agitates the air in the system and creates more bubbles. I have watched a bunch of these videos and almost all of them say to pump the brake with the bleeder closed. This is 100% WRONG!

4:06 SILICONE PASTE ON A HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE OR BANJO BOLT.. WOW.. THERES WASHERS TO SEAL THOSE TO STOP LEAKS.. THOSE VALVES WILL HAVE BRAKE FLUID ON THEM. SILICONE CAN MESS WITH THE CALIBER OR BREAKING SYSTEMS JUST GET NEW BRAKE CALIPERS FROM AMAZON NEW A PREMIUM BRAKE HOSES NEW BRAKE CALIPER BANJO BOLTS YOUR GOOD

As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled.

All you did was gravity bleed the caliper while you were wasting your time with the silicone paste.

Man I love the “ehhh” love it man

I have a similar issue when my bleeder valve is completely tightened and there are still air bubbles being pulled into the vinyl tube, but it is not really a problem. First take a look at a bleeder valve when it is removed (either in this video or google it); there are threads, then the hole through the valve, and then the cone that seats into the caliper. The seal between the caliper and the bleeder valve is accomplished by the solid cone of the valve seating in the matching recess of the caliper, not the threads. The reason air bubbles are creeping out is because the vinyl hose connected to the bleeder is creating a vacuum with gravity pulling the fluid down the tube and sucking air through the threads into the bleeder valve hole and then into the vinyl tube. It is not pulling air from the sealed caliper. The bleeder threads may or may not be airtight, these threads are not the seal, the cone is. If the threads are airtight, you will not see the bubbles, but if the threads are not airtight air will be drawn through them and then come out as bubbles into the vinyl line. This video is sealing the threads with silicone, which will block the air from being pulled through the treads and into the tube, but again the threads are not the seal to the caliper the bleeder cone is. Here are a few tests... 1) Move your fluid container above the brake bleeder valve, gravity will no longer be pulling the fluid down and creating a vacuum to pull air through the threads. 2) Similar to the first test, after bleeding your brakes, clear the vinyl line of fluid. Now hook the vinyl tube back up and bleed a little fluid into the hose with the hose pointing up with none of the fluid being drawn downward, then close the bleeder valve. If bubbles are not coming out of the valve you are good (no vacuum is pulling the air through the threads). 3) After bleeding the brakes, and torquing the bleeder valve closed, pump the brakes and see if any fluid is escaping from the bleeder valve, either through the threads or out of where the vinyl tube connects, if no fluid is coming out your bleeder valve is seated and sealed. Note: I am not a professional mechanic, so if you think I am incorrect, please tell me why.

Don’t squeeze that brake tube , worst thing you can do 🤦‍♂️

Thanks man you helped alot