Yes. This is a generic video but it applies to almost all compression drivers. Slight modifications might be needed for some models but they should be easy to figure out. If you need help, email [email protected]

You can of course change the order of the steps we suggest, but there is always a reason why we do something in a specific way. In this case, you epoxy the voice coil to spider and wait overnight for all the other adhesives to cure. Then you solder the vc to the pigtail and glue down to the cone before you attach the dustcap. That way if there is any kind of issue, you don't have to figure out if you have a cold solder joint or something else. It would not hurt anything to solder initially but it doesn't hurt anything to wait either.

It depends on the speaker and the parts availability. Both materials dry rot over time, but the butyl rubber surrounds are limited in size specifications. They do not come in all sizes.

@@cathysatin3342 Thank you my friend, I have old JAMO SW3 with 2x 5incho subwoofer, I ordered rubber and foam, originally had foam so I was wondering if use the foam as it was originally or switch to rubber.. if you where to choose, which would you go for..? Thank you

If it were me, I'd use the polyfoam surround. It is much much easier to work with.

That really depends on the particular speaker. A general rule of thumb is to set the voice height so that the amount of windings matches the space on the shims under the voice coil. see picture #6 reconingspeakers.com/faq/reconing-faqs/how-to-diy-recone-with-unassembled-parts/

You can do it! rah rah. email me at [email protected] if you run into any questions or problems.

Use different color shims until you have a nice tight fit on the inside of the voice coil, but still have outside clearance.

You must solder the voice coil leads to the pigtail lead that comes through the cone. We suggest you make sure the vc lead is pressed down into the gap from the vc to the cone and up the cone and then solder. (Also glue or epoxy these leads to the cone afterwards.) You must also solder the pigtail lead from the back of the cone to the terminal on the frame and we suggest you make an outward facing "C" curve of these leads before soldering.

It should be exactly the same as in this video. If your driver looks different or if there is something particularly different about it, email a picture to [email protected] and we'll do our best to help you.

Cathy Satin HI, the back of the eminance HF driver is opened up and a metal cup looks like a metal dome tweeter is placed in the back making them a dipole driver, sound coming from the front and the back, I don't think the cup is an actual driver but I could be wrong.You can google Hawthorne silver Iris driver (pics) and you will see an example of the metal dome at the back of the driver, sorry having trouble sending a pic.

I googled it and I see a vintage coaxial speaker. The driver does not look unusual. I do not see a metal dome, I see a driver cover but it should all be the same as far as replacing the diaphragm. If you need more info, please be much more specific and email me at [email protected].

Greg Jenkins shut the fuck up. This video is fantastic.

What are you, their producer or director? I love this company. Extremely thorough demonstration in this video, great products and service, and they've always been super helpful when I had questions or weird speaker rebuilds. So , like grimdoomsday said, STFU you keyboard-critic bastard.

You're the only one to complain

I understand everything she said. Were you expecting a Broadway musical?