Yes, you need to drain the oil if you remove the stator cover. Also keep in mind there will still be some oil left under the stator cover so make sure you have a drain pan under it before pulling off the cover.

@Racer510 thanks so much 🙏 I wasn't sure I would get a reply on such an old video, definitely subbing.

Thank you!!!

This is the part number I used for my 2016 Macan S. 7PP-035-454-L You will need to verify if it fits yours too though.

That's a great idea too!

Yes I do. Especially when replacing with new ones, which is the case with this rebuild.

@@Racer510 ​ Thanks for answering up sir. Also, I linked your video over on the Ninja 400 site. If that isn't something you'd like I can delete the post. But there seemed to be a bit of questionable information on the site regarding crankshaft bearings. Your video and a still shot from your video (credited to your site) seemed like a good way to try to bring some clarity. Appreciate the content!!

I'm good with it! Thanks for the feedback!

I really do not know. I've never done a retrofit like that.

Yes you do, some of the bolts for the crankcase are underneath the top end.

@@Racer510 thanks for responding! how badly is it going to mess up the timing/timing chain?

You need to remove the timing chain and top end. I would also suggest putting a new chain on when you do and align all the marks. You definitely need a Ninja 400 shop manual to do the job.

Sorry man!! Yeah, we pay top dollar for our repairs!! At least you'll know how to do it if another one fails. Thanks for watching!

Oh the infamous oval seal! I unfortunately didn't do a video when I stripped my engine down. I'll be sure to make one in the future though when I reassemble it!

I did not, but I explain it in the video. It's also outlined in the service manual.

Yes, I replace the washer. You can sometimes get away with reusing, but I don't recommend that unless you are in a bind.

@@Racer510 yeah I did end up using the old one I ordered some that supposedly were supposed to be the right ones but the old one looked fine. Is there a reason why you should replace it?

If it's rod knock you will need to rebuild the bottom end, which means completely taking apart the engine. I would start at the top end and check valves and the valve clearance. Another thing it could be is the timing chain.

It's about 300 watts. Of course you can't test this without it being on a running motorcycle. And then you have to calculate the draw on the system as well.

It will depend on which option package you have on the Macan. If you bought it used you could try to use a VIN decoder to see which options were purchased when it was bought new from the dealership. The ones in my video are the base package.

Vin decoder?

I purchase mine from the Kawasaki dealership, so it comes directly from Kawasaki.

I use 2 liters (2.1 quarts). It will be less if you do not replace the oil filter.

If you get a chance, I would truly appreciate it if you subscribe to my page!

Thanks for watching!!

Thank you!! I truly appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

Are you sure you plugged in the wiring harness to the coils? That's strange that it wouldn't even fire up? I've had two broken spark plugs and it would still fire up, but would run really rough. Let me know how it goes.

@@Racer510 I’m positive. Just to be clear, it’s only the six harness clips that go into each coil pack. Anyways, after 14 hours of trying to do a job I had bolted up in an hour and 15 minutes to no avail, and breaking one of the coil pack bolts in the head, my car is being towed to the Porsche dealership. I’ve changed 1000 spark plugs in my life with no issue. Now it’s gonna cost me 5 grand 😅

That's horrible! I've changed them 3 times on mine and never had that happen, although the broken spark plug on one. There is a small spring inside of the coil, but it would take a lot of air pressure to blow that out. Did you start it after you installed the first 3 spark plugs like I did in the video? This would at least limit it to which side of the engine the problem is. It sounds like something else was disconnected during the job.

Not personally, but had a friend that used it and swore by it! I've only heard good things about it!! Let me know how it goes!

Will do!

I really appreciate it! Thank you! That's mean a lot coming from someone with your level of expertise!!!!!

Yeah, it definitely needed convincing to pop off!

Let me know if you have any questions!! Thanks for watching!

Do you have a video on replacing the pdk fluid change?

It's one of the easiest cars I've changed the oil on! Let me know if you have any questions!

I totally agree!!

Good to hear!! Glad it helped!!

Correct, the factory springs are softer!

@@Racer510 is it a combination of the assist and slipper clutch and the softer springs that make the clutch easier to pull... or is it just the slipper clutch?

Which part?

Thanks, miss ya brother! I wish you were out there with me!

You know it!!!

Thanks man!! I totally agree, we need another 10-20 seconds of a gap. It was definitely scary!! See you guys next round!

Make sure when putting the case cover back on that the actuator arm is back towards you by turning it counter-clockwise. It needs to engage the pusher pin properly. Did that help?

Thanks for the response! Yes, actuator arm is engaged with the pusher pin, although.. going backwards a few steps. After the clutch plate inserts, when I added the the springs to close it back up, It's requiring a lot of pressure to but those 3 spring bolts into place (it's not letting me hand screw it in before torqueing it to spec) @@Racer510

@@noirkageAre they they correct springs? If so, there is something wrong with the clutch pack. (too many plates or incorrect widths) Go to Partzilla.com and search the oem clutch so you can see the microfiche diagram and compare to yours. Let me know how it goes!

Glad it was helpful!

May be informative and not exactly the right information...

Previous owner ran it very low on oil.

Ramps would work even better. I jack it up at the lower control arm; the rear-most mounting point.

No it does not. When doing the finally assembly though you do put liquid gasket down before sealing it up. There isn't a one piece gasket for the crankcase halves. Does that help?

🏁

Thanks for the support Mark!!!

Thank you!!

Thanks brother!!!

That is correct.

Yeah, I found mine on EBay. You should check out my other video on testing the stator coil with a multimeter. Maybe that could help?

​@@Racer510I'm finding each of the stator coil output wires is actually shorted with the bike frame on a multimeter continuity test. There are 3 wires coming out of the alternator indicating i have a 3 phase alternator, and each of the phases is shorted to ground. So i diagnosed this indicates a problem with the stator coil (the coil in the stator somewhere is touching with the alternator metal body). Problem is with some of tthe stator coil removal videos I'm seeing on KZbin like yours, on some of them there is a ground wire coming out of the wire harness coming from the stator that is connecting to the bike's chassis. I'm not sure where this wire is coming from the coil winding. I'm confused if the neutral point of the 3 phase winding (if we have a star (wye) connection) is grounded in some bikes? This would short all the wires with the ground obviously as they are all connected which would make my diagnosis false. Is this even a valid way to connecting the circuit or am i misunderstanding something?

@EvilSapphireR Thanks for the question. To clarify, none of the wires on the 3 pin connector should be grounded out. The stator is generating AC power not DC. AC power does not need a ground wire to operate, as the ground is simply a safety wire. It does not become DC power until after the regulator/rectifier. With that being said, could you possibly be confusing the 2 pin connector coming from the stator wire bundle that is actually for the crankshaft sensor? If you haven't already, here is the simple test you need to do to tell you if it's bad or not: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmfaf6KFqcukobssi=e0dpCdU_NhkrHY9B

I do not machine, I just replace. They're fairly cheap to get new or in good-used condition. I always replace the bearings with new ones though.

You're right, in 6th the transmission will spit it back down to 5th. Especially at high rpm's. I'm not really sure if there is another way to fix it, I just know that when you get the transmission undercut the problem goes away.

I have realized what the problem is, the 6th gear has 3 ball bearings that require centrifugal force,,,, but Kawasaki in the manuel doen't explain this or what RPM is required to keep those 3 bearings under force so that they don't release the gear and drop the bike back down to 5th or just keep spinning without engaging at times. I found that the short shift is for very high speed and if you use 6th at lower speed then intended the bike lugs and causes a spun bearing with time....😅

Also do you need a new gasket cover if replacing the strator cover ? (Mine has a hole from hitting a low slide)

You do need to torque them, but no loctite. If you're having issues with them loosening you could definitely use loctite though. I just torque them down to 9.8nm (87in/lbs) and I've never had a problem. Thanks Eric!

@@Racer510 awesome thank you, one last question do you need a replacement gasket cover when removing the strator cover or only if damaged/ needs replacing

It really depends on the age of the bike, oil changes, etc. It's easy to change, so if I've never replaced it then I will go ahead and get another one. If I have replaced it and it's in good condition then I will just reuse it. Make sure to check for leaks though!!! Thanks!!!

Haha!

Yeah, it's confusing that the name of the business is Apex Kart Racing. Maybe I should change it?

Thanks Mark, I appreciate the support!!

Thanks Mark!!

Haha, you know it!!

The springs will definitely help in the long term. I would change them for sure. Also, make sure the the clutch cable is adjusted properly. Adjust it at the clutch case first and then fine tune it at the lever.