Thank you Ed. Much appreciate you watching and commenting.

I agreed. It was nice seeing the other E-Body at a car show.

I'm not running a pressure regulator yet. It is on the " to do" list. I've watched your videos and I've started looking for a good dead head regulator as the stock tank and pickup don't have a return line provision. Any recommendations??

@@Scarlet_1971_cuda stock tanks aren’t a concern really. There is a very cheap way to add a return line to one of you find out you’d be better off with a return type system. For the deadhead stuff, I’m not overly picky. I have a very cheap Holley 12-803 on my truck. As I start working through the next tuning videos I’ll be releasing, you’ll see that I switched to an Edelbrock 8190. Is just a bit higher quality and it’s made in the US and a much better regulator.

Thank you!!

YES!!! I was very happy that there were no leaks on the first try!!

Thank you very much!!

Thank you! 👍

I plan too. Thank you for all you help. You have a great channel full of good info on these Edelbrock carbs.

Thank you. I think so too. With the stock intake manifold, heads and exhaust, I just don't think it will breath enough to justify a 750 or 850 CFM carb. I'm really looking forward to it. Now if my delivery will just get here...

Thank you!!

Still at it. Finances are very tight right now so it is going slow, but it is going... Thank you for the encouragement.

Thank you very much. Looking forward to getting the fuel line on. UPS was supposed to deliver 2 days ago... still waiting...

Thank you

In my situation I have both connected. Why? Because I have not bypassed the stock AMP meter. Therefore, since in general electricity takes the path of least resistance, only the amperage needed by the electronics, laps, radio, etc., that is needed by that equipment takes the stock 12 gauge wire. All the other Amps go through the slow-blow fuse and to the battery. In my case, if I removed the stock wire, the car wouldn't start as there is no other wire providing that function. My setup is not a complete rewire/re-do. It just keeps the extra amps from burning out the wireing.

@@Scarlet_1971_cuda Okay thanks that makes sense. I am running a Fitech FI throttle body which is wired separately. I added a relay box and bypassed the ballast resistor. My car starts no problem and the system Is charging. In my case would there be any benefit to reconnecting the 12 awg wire?

If all your lights, gauges and such work, then they are getting power from some other wire and you should be fine so long as that other wire is of the appropriate AWG to support the load. In a stock system, that is the only wire providing power to the dash and everything feeds off that wire. If it is working without it, you should be fine so long as your replacement wires support the load.

Thank you very much. I hope you start hooking up some of the simple sensors this week.

Thanks for the links. Back when I was an intern, built several instrumentation cables with the 14 sets of shielded twisted pair 22 awg wire into the MIL-DTL-38999 (Series 3) connectors. Later got to use the MIL-DTL-38999 series 4 connectors on test equipment. When using the same shell sizes on the same equipment, I ordered the different shell/connector keying so they couldn't be connected to the wrong place. For my car stuff, I have been using the metri-pack connectors to save some money compared to the Deutsch connectors and crimper prices. I think most of the sensors are also metri-pack 150 connectors.

@zerogmopars746 I'm glad to do it.

@zerogmopars746... Thank you. I'm using the JRready crimper. At $130 it is not cheap, but it does 3 sizes (12, 16 and 20) so if you need all 3 it is better than paying $45 per size for individual crimpers and it comes with a nice case to store it in. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CL1S23MS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 If you have won the lotto, then the official Amphenol Sine unit may be for you at almost $1,200!!! www.waytekwire.com/product/amphenol-sine-systems-ca-5d12-universal-hand

Thanks, will do!

Thank you very much!!!

Thank you very much!! Glad you liked it.

Thanks!!!

Thank you

Good to know... Do you have a picture or a link showing the bracket. Obviously it is missing on my 'cuda and if it is supposed to be there, I would like to see if I can find some to put them on.

I have not done overdrive transmission swap yet. I picked up a 47RH and put an Ultrabell housing on it. I need to figure out the torque convert, the cross brace situation and then a shorter drive shaft so there more $$$ involved than I have right now. For the data logger, I have it set up for Date, Time, Engine RPM, TPS, dual O2 Sensors (it is a V8), MAP x2 (one for reference on for manifold), Fuel pressure, Oil Pressure, Trans Pressure, Oil Temp, Trans Temp, Coolant Temp and send it to a display as well as write it to an SD card. I am also collecting ambient Air Temp and Humidity but the sensor I'm using is not under hood rated. I'm not going to go EFI. I like the simplicity of a Carb.

@@Scarlet_1971_cuda Sounds good. With the trans governor pressure and temp, MAP, RPM, and TPS you have good info for overdrive and lockup code. Cope Transmissions just posted some info on the overdrive swap, but he used the adjustable pressure switches. The RE trans has the pressure and temp sensors inside the transmission, but would have to monitor the trans speed sensor and PWM the governor pressure solenoid.

Thanks!

The pressure transducer senders are cheap Amazon specials. I paid about $15 each for them. This is the oil pressure unit - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y756B5V. They are +-2%. I have no idea how long they will last on the car, but for bench testing and a proto type I didn't want to go expensive. The good news is from the Arduino perspective the 5v sensors are all the same. PCB layout - I'm using KiCad v8.02 (www.kicad.org/). It is free and fairly easy to use. DigiKey has some footprint files that can be integrated so you don't need to create as many footprints. However, once you have created 1 or 2 footprints on your own it turns out to be really easy, just a bit time consuming... There are also a large number of helpful youtube videos on KiCad to help you if you get stuck.

@@Scarlet_1971_cuda Thank you, that's some great information. I'll have to try the Kicad software.

This is the KiCad tutorial that I used to get started - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJKmh5toiKaNj5Y

Thank you

Thank you!!! It's a hot one so far... 93 degrees... yuck!!

I 100% Agree. Thank you!!

Bummer. I guess that is the problem with posting links. They are helpful but only for a short time. Glad you found them on Amazon.

hey, im trying to find these anywhere, including amazon. can you share the amozon link or item number please?

Very sorry for the late reply. I will try to do better.... Thank you very much!! I agreed the '71 is my fave as well. Those are '17 Year One Rallye wheels. I have a video on them. 8 inch wide in the front and 9 inch wide in the back.

👍

If I get 500 subs I'm be taking her to the #nonamenational... If I get the subs it would be good to see you.

@@Scarlet_1971_cuda First three Corona beers on me :-)

No other 'cudas. There is a 73 Challenger. The only other cuda I ever see is a 70 at Gator Harly Davidson.

It was a fun time.

Thank you!!

Yes it is!!! Must be around 100 cars here.

Thank you. Yes, I am way over due... Work and family life are getting in the way, but I hope to get one out in the next couple days...

Thank you

Thank you so much 😁

Thank you very much!!!

I'm in Central Florida. Not to rub it in but we have shows all year.

@@Scarlet_1971_cuda Please, rub it in. My friend Steve has your exact car in the factory yellow & black. Love it

😁😁

Oh Ya!!!!