Sounds interesting, so do you keep the tapwater running continuously?

I had a 8'4" distance from my floor to the bottom of the ceiling floor joists and my body height is 6'1" which does not comfortably give me enough room to swing a modern driver length with a swing on a normal swing plane. Of course if I was to make changes, I could probably get by if I was to "choke up" on the grip a few inches or swing on a flatter swing plane - but of course that not ideal. Ultimately as I'll illustrate when I upload a final video, I ended up having a contractor properly remove a 2" x 12" x 20' long floor joists and add cross-joist supports. But if I understand your room length as being only 5 feet in depth it would not be enough room for a launch monitor to properly detect ball speed, nor would the screen be far enough away to be safe. In fact since you need at least 1 foot spacing between the screen and wall, you'd have less than 4 feet depth which wouldn't even be deep enough to make a golf swing or even for a projector to focus correctly. Sorry but I can't imagine a golf simulator working shorter than at least 12 feet deep. Good luck.

My room isn’t 5ft in depth the simulator is 15 wide 8 ft high and 5 feet deep the room is 19 feet wide and 20 feet long and the ceilings are 9 ft high

@@nathanstrand4132 Okay, while I don't understand the concept of simulator "depth" I get that your 19x20 foot room specs are great and you should be able to make the 9 foot ceiling work (even if you have to choke up a few inches on your driver), assuming the mat you are standing on isn't too deep/tall. Good luck.

@@CaliforniaTravelVideos depth means the black tarp of the simulator and the metal goes back 5 ft. My hitting from the ball is 9 ft from ball to screen and 8 feet from launch monitor to ball total 17 feet.

@@nathanstrand4132 Aha, eventually I realized what you meant when you said you have "5ft in depth for the simulator." I think you were implying the 5 ft pertained to the ENCLOSURE and that the black screen has a depth of 5 ft .

Thanks for the reminder!

You nailed it, especially with an extra-length driver!

Indeed and I must upload my "almost completed" golf sim room! I had a contractor build a 4x9 foot head-out, removing 9 feet of two 2x12 joists (replaced in part by additional secondary 2x2 inch "flats"), and basically replacing the two 2x12s with sistered 2x12s on adjacent joints. Going crosswise at the end of the removed 2x12s are sistered (double) cross 2x12 joists supported by hangers, along with one 2x8 inch flat cross beams near each end (since I only need 6 feet above me for my swing area). In my upcoming video I'll show the details...

@@CaliforniaTravelVideos yes! Time for a new video!

EXACTLY - ditto what slowed me down for1-2 months! Fortunately the journey was well worth "the cost of poker" - well, as long as you've got a fat wallet, checking account or low credit card balance LOL!

Thanks for your comments. the video is from days when technology was not as great as it is now for making vids. feel free if you are in the area to see our horses. sadly our foundation mare and her mate, (Nadine and Matrix ) have passed on at the age of 30, we have Nadin'es baby Melita and have Melita's baby Mellieha. best Michael

Nice question and one I didn't realize that on some YH's there might be loose, sloppy movements on the bleed screws. Mine certainly is snug when I moderately tighten them. Of course when you loosen them a quarter of a turn or more, indeed they do wobble a bit but that is by design. The brass female fitting is designed to release air as the valves are opened and are cut at a slight angle (like a funnel) so the air will easily be released without having to completely remove the screw. I suppose if you wanted you could replace the with a more professional screw valve if that suits you. Thanks for bringing this up for others who may have ideas to improve this concern of yours.

@@CaliforniaTravelVideos good to hear, I was worried I might be putting too much torque on them to seal. I've heard people putting teflon tape on the bleed screws. mine work good....I'll keep them as is. Thanks man

@@CaliforniaTravelVideos makes sense about the air flow angle, Thanks for that info !

Agreed LOL (after the Covid era shutting down paintballing for over a year, I find it helpful to refresh my recollection too)

No, not at all. Actually, the second stage of the compressor has so much pressure, as you saw it is very hot and is hardly bothered by the very small amount of cold water that goes near the cylinder head.

@@CaliforniaTravelVideos thanks friend

3:33

Excellent points about the oil - many thanks. Regarding the height of the cooling bucket, as long as the pump can push the weight of the water "upstream" (uphill), agreed in that circumstance it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. Yet with a low CFM pump pushing water upwards, gravity has a direct correlation to the height. A "quick and dirty" way to determine the affect with your existing gear is to start the pump when connected to the water source down on the ground. On the pump output tubing that is not connected to the YH, try raising the tube from ground level to 1, 2, and 3 feet - for a small pump you'll be surprised how gravity has a significant affect on the flow. Obviously, we want to have a much flow as possible to move hot water away from the compression head. Thanks for bringing up this important topic.

Do you have a timestamp where you heard 20 watts? Actually, when the compressor is working hard the compressor is consuming over 1,500 watts.

Many thanks and good luck with your new addition.

Thanks for the thought and hopefully newer versions of Dye i5 Googles work better than my two - even going beyond hooking in your index and middle finger and trying to pull back FIRMLY on the blue grip doesn't help much... or even yanking with a pliers or channel locks.

How true and if you are careful to use your YH for light use, it will definitely last longer. But of course for the heavy users of their gear, it's probably worth spending a bit extra and not have to soon buy a second compressor.

@@CaliforniaTravelVideos Thanks, I'm seriously considering ordering one tomorrow, the big decision is auto shut off or not. I would consider myself a light user. Thanks again...

@@bucsam1660 Wow, I totally forgot about the auto shutoff option and now that I think about it, initially I forgot the reason I didn't go with the auto shutoff option. Now that I look at it, I recall that it doesn't look all that reliable and I didn't want to risk the compressor not starting up, only to find out the circuit no longer works... after an hour of troubleshooting and then another hour to rewire around the circuit. IMO, we really should be watching the compressor from time to time anyway, rather than leave the area only to find the YH was heading for a catastrophe (overheading, loss of oil, leakage, mechanical noises...)

Hey California, I ordered my Yong Heng yesterday from Amazon. Saw a review where the guy uses Royal Purple Compressor oil instead of Hydraulic. Be safe🤠

Sweet Gary - always nice to hear others success stories and it's awesome to get such good value for our money!

Sorry I don’t have any info on your desired fitting and we often seem to require a few tries to get it right. Good luck and happy hunting trails. Michael

Thank you - to adapt Chuck Yeager's famous quote, "There are old paintballers, and there bold paintballers, but there are no old, bold paintballers messing around with their air compressors.

I appreciate your point and I certainly don't profess to be an expert in thermodynamics! That said, whether the water flows somewhat faster or slower, the primary determinant is fluid temperature since the *conduction* is essentially a constant. You might try cooling the external head using a fan or design a better heat sink to dissipate the air if you are operating in a warm climate.

Good one John - even worse could happen singing your song! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHzXeGenq5mhqJo

Perhaps you have excessive moisture/humidity in the air and maybe the inline YongHeng "cigarette" filter just isn't quite enough to do the job (which is why I went overboard and added two extra filters. If nothing else, be sure to change your cigarette filter often or at least squeeze out all the water between uses.

Good question, yet having researched this 2 years ago... hmm now, what was the reason I didn't go with the obvious answer! (few minutes later...) Aha, I think I have it and it had something to do with corrosion since antifreeze: 1. Is designed to keep fluids from freezing, not overheating 2. Does not have distillation properties Yes, at first sounds weird since antifreeze also helps keep things cool for a car engine (literally and figuratively). So I searched the internet and some of these posts agree with my somewhat vague recollection: www.airgunnation.com/topic/yong-heng-and-antifreeze-coolant/ That said, some claim antifreeze works fine, so unless you anticipate heavy and frequent use, use what works best for you. Happy trails, Michael

Sweet - WTG, that's an elegant solution. BTW, I have a screw-tight gamma-lid on my 5 gallon bucket to avoid evaporation. ~ Michael

Well, when you put it that way... I agree LOL. (as the saying goes, some assembly required)

buying cheap stuff and bringing it up to par is a hobby in itself

😎 Amen bro

Mine works fine without some of these extras

@@caseG80 agreed, i'm only running a tuxing oil/water separator to fill my SCBAs and it's fine. even use the original pump

nothing