Short but sweet! Thanks. I was able to easilly lift mine out with 2 pair of piers. It wasn't glued in.

Having a tough time, buddy?

This seems to be the case with my patio drains when I moved into my home. It just boggles my mind that someone could think it’s a good idea to glue or cement these things in🤨

lord stop using green scouring pads to clean. Blue is plenty with bar keepers cleaner. tough to see how beat up the stainless steel was

My panorama roof is driving me insane. Something is clicking and i cant find what

B/S/H home appliances Corp I have been having issues with them. I purchased 3 new Tube RF LF Center (jet assembly (tubing, 1.69 orifice, compression nut, electrode, shutter screws) The screws that are used to hold down the burners are not included and cost around $18. each for zinc screws REALLY. Furthermore the receptor of the screw (what you screw the zinc screw into is not threaded, no wonder why they cannot be removed. It get better the screws that hold the ignitor electrode in places were striped so they cannot be removed. DO NOT BUY BOSCH German engineering made with cheap People's Republic of China parts.

The easy to access screws were all torx heads but the screw that's difficult to reach is a phillips head. To make matters worse, no real pressure can be applied to ensure the phillips head doesn't strip. How stupid!!!

First time I've ever commented on one of these videos, because it was a lifesaver. Exactly what I needed. For reference, I have the HDI7282U, with the ceramic top beneath the gas burners, and everything was pretty much the same. One visible difference is the male igniters in my unit were factory bent into an L shape, but the replacement part (from Amazon and reportedly compatible with my model) was straight up and down, as shown on this video. I simply bent it into an L and it worked fine. After reading warnings from others, I used penetrating oil on the burner screws AND went out and bought a new Torx head (only T-20 needed on this model) to be sure it had sharp edges - a couple bucks well spent to avoid stripping anything. Screws came out the next day with no problem, and I also had no issue with the tiny igniter screw (didn't need penetrant on those). Really only two issues: 1) the burner seals are cardboard and crumble easily if you try to clean them, as I found out the hard way - a $35 replacement piece of cardboard, oops; 2) for some reason, the new ignitor didn't work for me upon first install, so to troubleshoot, I swapped the new one with one of the original three that I knew still worked. And for whatever reason, the new one worked this time, as did the swapped one. So I'm not sure what I did wrong the first time around, but the reinstall went fine. One thing that helped me with testing - there was no reason to unplug the control board. Just let it rest straight up and down, with the bottom sitting on the oven floor and the door mostly closed, and the wires will have no tension. That enabled me to test the ignitors without reassembling anything, and just laying the burner caps in place to test.

Do you need to turn the gas off before replacing the electrodes?

Can anyone explain why Bosch used screw that rust? The stove is stainless steel, yet they manufactured a critical component with screw ( which rust shut) that would eventually need to be removed? I notice on the video the screws were in perfect shape? How EXPENSIVE would stainless steel screws cost?

As others have said, we also had an issue with the screw that holds the electrode in place--it was welded in place--no amount of liquid wrench or tapping the screw would loosen it. We got it out by up breaking off the old electrode, as someone else did, and twisting the metal bracket around until we got that off completely, leaving a slight gap between the screw head and the metal plate. Then, using vice grips, we were able to grip the screw head enough to twist it out. I did have to go into our misc. screw bin to find a replacement screw, but found one that worked no problem. Also, in order to prevent the torx screws up top from sheering off, we did spray them with the liquid wrench type stuff and carefully twisted. So all went well and this video was helpful to show the steps involved. Thanks for making it!

What if they are broken?

Put the damn camera on the filter replacement or get a phone holder

If it is glued in, use a small masonry chisel to open a gap. Pour in Goo Gone super glue remover, work around the circumference until it works free and then proceed per the video.

Pitiful video

Excellent, very helpful and clear video. We have exactly the same cooker and one of the burners does not come on. When you turn on it start clicking, but never ignites. Could you please let me where to get the part? I should with the help of your video be able to change the part. Thanks.

Some of the torx screws on my stove (HGS 7052) sheered or rounded right off. The philip screw that held the broken electrode rounded. If your screws look really rusted, then I would caution taking them off. You can try penetrating oil first but I don't think it will help. Note that you may need T25 and T20 torx. On my model, it used both. I gave up trying to replace the electrode due to those issues. I guess I'll continue to use a candle lighter to start my stove.

Nice asmr

All this to replace an ignition electrode. Bosch is absurd. Never buying one of their appliances again

I am just letting people know that this drain might not come out this easy I worked on mine for weeks. I bought a new grate to replace this one . I had to break all the grates and put a baby saw in to cut the rest out. All done with one hand .

Good

I was puzzled by your futzing with the plug on the ignitor wire at ~4:40 on the video til I had to remove mine and realized there is a spring catch on the female end of the plug that when moved with your fingernail as you demonstrate that makes removal of the male part easier. They do not easily come apart otherwise. Second comment: on mine the phillips head screw for the bad ignitor would NOT come loose, eventually after multiple attempts the head buggered up and I elected to try drilling it out. I suspect the screw is stainless as it definitely work hardened under drilling pressure and I dulled 4 new drill bits in the attempt. Finally dremelled the head off (tried slotting but that failed as well). Since there is an adjacent hole, I tapped this 6-32 and tried that but this moves the ignitor to <7/8" from the burner holder and the burner head will not properly mount. Proper distance is slightly >15/16". Further study shows ignition actually occurs between the head of the ignitor and the black burner cover and this spacing is more important than one would think. After several reassembly/disassembly cycles my final solution was to use the nub of the phillips head ignitor screw to locate the ignitor at the proper distance and put a small piece of 0.125" thick aluminum on top of the ignitor flange to keep it located on the nub and bolt everything back together. So the ignitor for that burner has no screw, just the small piece of aluminum holding it on the remnants of the screw, and finally everything works.

one sharper corner should be in bottom left side

great video

That one wasn't stuck. Mine, the crowbar snapped it into pieces before it would come out. But they are easy to find and replace.

Hello people. Video did not explain how to undo the screw holding the Firing electrodes. Because of Heat most of them were welded shut. Please use WD 40 or Deep creep and let it sit for quite some time then try to loosen up by twisting back and forth. Philip screw driver has to be exact other wise the screw head will strip.There's little ledge on the side of the screw holder plate which will prevent screw opening if using a bigger drill bit. Please use exact drill bit. We had to use the grinder to make the screw head flat and on e opened after lubing it. 2nd head broke and I had to drill and put new threads on it. This step took the longest. 3/32nd titanium drill bit needed. Had to buy new screw as will. Good Luck.

what model is this ?

Worked!!! Thx 😊

Sorry. I prefer a voice to go with the video.

Excellent step by step video! My replacement went fine except for the screw holding the electrode in place, which was very difficult to remove. Ultimately decided to break the bad electrode into pieces and penetrating oil got it out.

did you solve rattle sound that you recorded while you are driving?

Yeah mine just cracks.

Good job. Air flow is definitely down. Up means up but air flow is down.

Get your self a Bentley

Nice video. We did a similar video on the same topic here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYq3nYF8h6ahpZI

Thanks for the video. I have the same Bosch stove. One of my burners continues to spark even after the flame has been ignited. Do you think I would I have to replace the ignition electrode or do you think it may be the spark module?

I have the same unit. The ignition on the central burner doesn’t ignite but rather keeps clicking half of the time. What is the part number? Do I need to take to rope plate off completely?

I wish mine came out like this lol. Not sure if they've been glued on or are just stuck, but I'll probably have to break mine off like "Johny Doe". Luckily, replacement drains by NDS were about a buck each at Lowes.

Thanks for this great video! Did you need to use any tool besides a philips screwdriver? Also, is there a trick to sliding the range out? Thanks!

asshole

The grates that I am trying to removed seemed to have been glued on. I've tried wd40, goof off and blast off lubricant (not all at the same time). I very also tried applying heat with a heat gun. I have 4 that I need to remove. I started on Saturday and it Monday. 1 removed and 3 more to go.. any tricks that can be shared for anyone reading this would be massively appreciated and forever you will hold a place in my heart.

Like a funky asmr video

mine had somehow become one with the concrete and needed a large crowbar to force out along the bottom edges. Your video reminded me it probably wasn't glued and just to keep trying, and it worked. So, thanks!

*For me personally: I live in a century old house that the old owners>>>**allmy.tips/5yjn** let's say they took some short cuts. Finding a new range was becoming my nightmare but as you can see from my old/new picture it was desperately needed. The contractor who did the kitchen cut the counters too short to ease space for my teeny tiny kitchen. Every range simply bulged oddly and looked magnificently out of place. Until the Bosch.*

you want to vacuum out the bottom of airbox before you re install new filter...

谢 谢 (Xie, Xie. Thanks, Thanks.) For the video & informative replies. 无声胜有声(Wu sing sing you sing; No voice better then with noise). Thank you. I fixed it.

That center burner flame looks pretty yellow. If you try to adjust that, please also make a video.

I’m trying to do this, but the screw heads on the burners keep snapping off. If I take them all out (and presumably they all snap off), is there a way to remove the igniter assembly and drill out the screws?

hey men.. check my video… trim loose when you pry it; ti's normal!!! (if there is no loose… it,s gonna crack..) Automatic?? the noise is (like 99% of all other) because a bolt is missing on the shifter cable support under the car (yeah it look insane but it,s real) ...easy to find...start car.. put it in drive, push the brake pedal, and give some fuel in the same time… around 2000rpm; a rattleling noise is gonna come from the dash..on the right…. BUT if you play with the shifter it,s gonna stop and go!!! …….……..

I own a 2018 touring. Such cheap build quality 😔