Yes I bought one from a salvage yard . I never could get mine to work

Definitely a bad design and GM keeps doing this .

@@chris71mach1 low boost code and no power

Stay off drugs kids !!!

What is the ac gauge reading on the low and height side ?

Yes

I did not remove the exhaust pipe just the 4 bolts at the manifold

If I remember correctly around 5-6 hrs

Oh wait.. I just saw the part about the PB blaster. That was my first thought, but wasn't sure if I should do that. Honestly, f*** it. I'm gonna spray that sucker for now and hope for the best.. at the very least I can buy myself some time.

I’m Not sure how you would get lube in the joint

@stanmarsh912 Good luck and come back . hit that subscribe button before you leave .

​@275stratos Alright. I haven't looked to hard at the part, but I guess I should actually remove it and clean it up then or totally replace it?

If you take it out might as well replace it .

The radiator is junk I’m replacing it with a new one

It’s fast and clean no mess .

Definitely need to see what the fuel pressure is doing before buying anything, or just swing for the fence and hope it fixes it .

It’s not going to help . Oil can’t fix a mechanical issue.

Glad you liked it . Like and subscribe helps me to continue make videos.

Yes sir and still doing good .

Glad it was helpful!

From the bottom

@@275stratos do you have to take off the other end that the turbo connects to some piece to the exhaust? I'm assuming I'm not a car guy, I'm just trying to do it myself

I've got everything disconnected and it won't pull out

@dustinmacomber4565 you just have to remove the clamp that hold turbo to exhaust

You know that brass clamp that you undo that goes to the turbo to the manifold. Do you have to rip out the piece that that clamp connects those two pieces?

Me too it turned off by itself then months later it turned back on again no idea how or why!?

@@saadalshemrani2380 faulty motherboard most likely. Might have a bad capacitor or something

Same exact thing just happened to me 2 days ago while changing my battery. After seeing this, now we wait🙏🏼

$80 labor is good . It had a low boost code is the best I can remember

😂 It was a older scanner.

@@275stratos 😂

It dont need dielectric grease 13- 15 lbs put some anti seize on the treads just a little not much.

You’re welcome. Please subscribe

Yes you are correct. Thanks for your update. Did you subscribe to my channel?

@@275stratos No, thank you for the video! Deciding right now if i want to tackle this job. Dont want to pay 145 dollars an hour for 5 hours of labor.

@DANIAC262 if you decide to tackle the job make sure you use Ford friction modifier

@@275stratos Yep, got some. Also thinking about just putting in an eaton lsd with worm gears. No clutches.

@@DANIAC262how did it go was it hard ? Thinking of doing mine on my 99

Used tranny $600 from junk yard

That and a air filter and fuel filter . Might check to see if your timing belt has been done .

@@275stratos Excellent, got all I need for maintenance on my list. Been getting the air filter changed, but not sure about fuel filter. That's pretty simple. Spark plugs, Coils, Fuel and Air filters, Timing Belt(I thought 2013 used Timing chain?) and probably my anti-freeze replacement. Thanks!

If it’s a max 2014-2017 it’s a Timing belt . I wouldn’t do the coils unless you have a bad one.

@@275stratos I believe I do. Why not do the coils? I ordered them already, so I figure I may as well. It was sitting a long time. It's a 2013 Acura RDX btw. I looked it up, it's definitely a timing belt. I wish it was the chain. I really appreciate your responses.

Definitely do the coils if you have them

Tensioners fixed this one

Did you subscribe ?

1.6 engine

Yes you can leave that back subframe in . Will need a engine support bar

@@275stratos I've got the support bar. So leave back subframe in, its being lowered from the bottom yet I assume? Sorry for the questions just wanna make sure I've got the details right.

Yes that is correct . You will have to twist the transmission to get it out . Removing that subframe would make it really easy but it’s more work.

@@275stratos I appreciate the help! You saved me a bunch of work!

@@MythicSR yes lower from the bottom

Right?!? 😂

Why? prevent leaks?

They say it’s not reusable after taking it off . I have reused them and also I’ve replaced them .

Your welcome.

Just the clutch? Did you check to see if you have power and ground to the clutch?

@@275stratos it has powet

@@josecarrillo3385 If you did the clutch only you probably have to much air gap between the clutch and compressor pulley

I replaced the whole compressor now there no power

So you had 12 volts and ground now you don’t. ? Check the fuse and relay . If all this checks good You will need to get a wiring diagram.

Are you sure the ac is staying on ? Like the compressor won’t turn off ?

Around 3 hrs maybe 4

@@275stratos Thanks for reply!

I called out the wrong tools?

@@275stratos "Wrong" ... as in what people think if they haven't spent much time reading through forums over the years. My point is to make sure that people understand that with the 2013 in particular, not every 2013 Ford Escape SE Ecoboost 2.0L FWD is identical. Sadly, they are not. It feels like Ford was either using what they had or they were already in the process of making changes throughout that 2012 production year. That might make sense, since the 2014+ models varied from the 2013 in many ways under the skin. For the same bolts, nuts, etc., my Escape often required 1-2 sizes different. Some of your Torx were Allen for me and vice versa. For me, that meant I lacked a couple of the sizes/types of sockets/bits to do the entire job... which meant putting it all back together so that I could run to AutoZone. LOL Lack of time to restart that project, made this long weekend my second attempt. So, no, you weren't wrong about your Escape, but some of the tools were "wrong" for my Escape. My Escape is like a person who hates doctors & hospitals... she has fought me every bolt of the way! I can't seem to work the knuckle loose and the CV Spline doesn't move, in-and-out a little bit, freely either so I'm not sure if it's the angle (front end up high enough for me to work under it comfortably) or if it's seized. Meaning I am forced to try to extract the TC from the top. I've seen it done by a couple of people on their 2013, but doggone if I can get it all the way out. I'm close and I've trimmed a little non-visible, non-weight bearing metal but I still haven't quite achieved extraction. I cannot figure out how those other folks managed it so quickly and easily... Except that maybe my Escape is just that kind of "Special". LOL There is nothing left in the way, except the firewall pipes, which I think are AC lines and wouldn't be worth disconnecting to gain 1/16" when I can wiggle past them with only light scratches. I have struts to do but they will need to wait and I'm wondering if it's time for new ball joints since their sleeves are all looking oddly flat/deflated in appearance. No issues yet but why wait if they might be headed there. Need the Escape for Tuesday morning to get to the VA Hospital 5 hours away I need this TC out and the new one to go back in that same path. Then I need to figure out if there should be a tiny drain hole forged into the bottom of the transmission box where it bolts to the oil pan. It looks like something chipped a hole in it but my uncle wondered if it might be a drain hole for water or something??? I haven't seen any leaks , but it it was chipped by something I ran over one night, as it fell off a truck, then I want to put some high temp red in it to seal it. Keep the salty humid coastal air out of there if that hole doesn't belong. Hope that further clarifies my clarification in my post. Very few 2013-specific videos online but I'm discovering these tools issues... And wonder if that's why Haynes Manual Videos don't call out sizes. I just wish my Escape was either Metric or SAE instead of a healthy mix of both. Maybe my Escape was a "Monday Morning" Escape. LMAO

You sir a a pain in your own ass...put up your video

Yes sir

great my RR failed Mot to day as turn key on hand break fault comes up then goes off straight away with no problem to car running be he failed it

If the part numbers are the same yes .

No, 2.0 uses v-clamp to cat, 1.6 has 3 bolts