I'm not sure what you are asking me (maybe bad translation?), but... The Windy1 Synthesizer is my design based on a Teensy 4.1. The Warbl2 is available online and has fully programmable fingerings.

@@windysynth Hi again I mean if you could surgery the Warbl2 to explain how is working and what is inside please

Oh yeah, right. I'll get to it at some point. In the meantime, the code is open source, so that will give you a good start. The github link is on the website for the warbl2.

@@windysynth thank you I can't find the GitHub link about open source code for warbl2 where is that dear?

@rogerredford4010 glad you liked the video. The warbl2 can send velocity info. That's how I have it set in the video. My Windy1 Synth doesn't use it at the moment, using the breath cc instead. But a lot of synths do use velocity. The fingering I came up with for the warbl2 works OK, but the buttons for the octaves aren't great--good enough for some fun while traveling, but not for your main horn. The EWI usb is a better way to go if those are your only choices, since you are not a tin whistle player or bagpipes player. Nuevi if you can afford it. Try patchmanmusic.com. they sometimes have one for sale.

@@windysynth Thank you for your detailed reply, I appreciate your advice! 😀

Glad you liked it.

I bought a while ago on Amazon for around $100, I think. I'm not sure about availability in India.

I'm not familiar with that fingering , sorry.

Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks! I was thinking of putting the synth inside the panda wireless midi receiver instead of wireless audio. Might have to 3d print a different case for it, but I think it'll work.

Yeah, the internal speaker is not great--OK for practicing i guess. Just run a 3.5mm stereo audio cable from the headphone jack to an amplifier with a stereo input. A lot of Bluetooth speakers have am "Aux" in you can use.

I totally understand what you're saying about the ae05. I bought it specifically to make some modifications to it. Then I broke it--oops! I'm not a big fan of the key clack and it definitely needs a bite sensor , plus the fingering extensions for aerophes is a bit lacking. I think it is worth learning the EVI fingering system. Then get a NuEVI, it's the smallest of the bunch and you don't need a strap. :)

Thanks! I've got this channel, and the code is on github under windysynth. There is also some modifications to the NuRAD and NuEVI code on github as well as the code for the windy1 synthesizer base on the teensy 4.1, all these projects have some videos here on this channel.

I think that with wind controllers, you end up needing to learn new fingerings anyway, in order to take full Advantage of the instrument. I think the EVI fingering is better, and you can learn the fingering basics in a month or two. I've switched back and forth with the Ewi fingering a couple of time and settled on EVI. I prefer the form factor of the EVI as well, since you can hold it with your left hand without a strap.

I'm working on a 3d printed housing for the windypod that includes a old screen similar to the windy1 synth. I'll also print a housing for the windy1, when I get around to it---though I'm not sure about part availability for it. They windypod is pretty much just a daisy pod which you can get from electrosmith and my code is on github. I'm not sure yet how I'm going to make the housing available and whether I want to build them up to sell completed units. What kind of price point do you think makes sense?

@@windysynth You could probably start at $400 for a self contained unit with sounds and effects.

@saxmaneddie1 OK. Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, I'd like that too. I do have a RC-505 which has a midi in port. I was able to get it to receive command from one of my EWIs from the buttons on the side. Then I made the rc505 the master and started the MC-101 sequence running from that. At some point I'm going to reprogram my NuRAD or NuEVI to send the correct midi commands to do this kind of thing.

Yeah, if I want to use this housing, I'm pretty much going to need to make new pcbs. I can reuse the breath sensor and the metal keys, but I'd end up 3d printing my own housing anyway. Also I got the NuRAD and NuEVI so I could tinker with the code--and I love them, but yeah, hard to get and you do pay a premium, but worth it with all the sensors they have. Make sure you stay updated on the Berglund instruments fb page if you are in the queue for one, and check your email spam folder for some from them. They are pretty responsive on fb.

I'm glad you liked the video. The NuRAD really is a fun instrument to play. I got mine at patchmanmusic.com. They go pretty fast when they have one, but you might check and see.

The way I do it: make sure your track sound source is set to CLIP. Then each clip in a track can have a different sound. Then create the clip. Then with that clip selected, create your sound. Then shift-tap the clip and scroll value knob to "save clip", chang the name to something useful (use measure arrows and rotate value knob) then press value knob to save clip. You can also Then save the song: shift-tempo.

@windysynth OK, thank you! I've watched a few sound editing tutorials, but not one mentions how to save the edits... Much appreciated!

Yeah that sounds about right. There can be some slight difference in the sound of the patch on the MC-101 under certain circumstances, but they are minor.

Thanks! I'll probably (eventually) put the code on github, but right now I'm working on a 3D printed case for the DaisyPod.

It doesn't sound like yours is the one from Vangoa, but if the circuitry other than the fingering pads is similar, then it doesn't have any way to get to the midi signal other than with the USB connection. So you'll need to hook it to some sort of USB midi host like a. computer. As to muting the audio, can you just turn down the internal audio level all the way?

Thanks I'll give it a go. I didn't realise the power socket could also send midi. Although in Chinese this video looks interesting as it appears to show an extension of the octave and sharp/flat keys ? kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWPUpWuLmbR7jqcfeature=shared

It can use Channel Aftertouch (status = 0xDn) but not Polyphonic Aftertouch (status = 0xAn) as far as I know.

@@windysynth Perfect! Thanks!

Thanks for the info. It looks like it actually has 13 touch sensors. I noticed after making the video that ther is one pad on the board not connected to the outside. I touched it while playing and it adds a vibrato. I was going to add a metal button and attach it, but I broke the board doing another mod--Doh!! Anyway, too bad there isn't an arduino driver for this chip.

did you try to add a custom Arduino brain to this thing successfully?

I did! It works fine now.

귀하의 의견에 감사드립니다. 귀하의 수정 사항이 흥미롭습니다. 나는 또한 사이드 Bb 키를 화나게했습니다. 왼쪽 새끼손가락 키 중 하나에 구리 테이프를 붙였습니다. 그리고 분해해 보니 패드가 연결되지 않은 부분이 있는 것을 발견했습니다. 음을 연주하면서 터치하면 비브라토가 발생해요! 아쉽게도 외부와 연결이 되어있지 않더군요. (Google 번역을 사용하여 이 글을 썼으니 이해해 주시기 바랍니다.)

Glad it helped

Thanks! I bought only a couple of months of the Zenology Pro subscription to program to do the video and program the sounds i wanted. You can load tones of presets into the MC-101, but you can only have 16 "clips" at hand on each of the four channels in each song (one song loaded at a time). MIDI program changes messages can switch between clips or between scenes. Scene change (0-127) on control channel, Clip change (0-15) on track channel. Each clip can have its own patch (and a sequence of notes, etc. if you want). A scene holds a combination of clips (one from each channel). Now, with ver 1.8, you can edit most of the synth params directly on the mC-101 without the need for Zenology Pro. You can't do everything I showed in this tutorial, but quite a bit of it--though it does take a lot of menu diving :)

@windysynth Thank you!

Adding these thickens up the rollers a bit. With larger diameter rollers, I can switch octaves quicker and with less glitchy notes. Berglund Instruments now offers a DLX upgrade kit that includes a set of nice fat rollers (amoung other things). I ordered mine this morning, so I'll be replacing the rollers on my NuEVI when i get them.

@@windysynth thanks, good to know. What did you purchase exactly?

@@ChrisKaseMusic ​@ChrisKaseMusic the DLX hardware kit. Just PM Johan Berglund on Facebook. He'll probably want a picture of your nuevi because it depends on what yours has.

@@windysynth thanks, actually I already have that upgrade as well as the more hefty canister.

You're welcome. Yes, I suppose you could.

Thanks! I got the metal hook at Home Depot. It's just a hook you might use for hanging your keys or whatever. I just bent it a little. Another easy mod is to add a small piece of copper tape from the first left pinky key over to just above the right hand. This gives you a side Bb key. But don't use too much tape or it will be like you are always touching that key.

@windysynth great idea! 👍🏼 Thanks!! I also play the Native American flute, so I might try the thumb holder idea there too. Thank goodness for velcro tape!!

물론이죠

Thanks!

My EWI5000 can definitely send Low Res breath. Just connect it to the EWI5000 editor and go to settings, breath tab, breath (br) section and select Low Resolution (Lr). If you don't have access to the application, you can do this through the interface on the EWI5000. press and hold the SETUP key while you use the two plastic "up" and "down" key on the side of the horn until you get to bS then let go of SETUP. Then use the up and down to get to br. THEN, you press and hold the TRANS key and use the up and down keys till it says Lr (your choices are Hr, Lr and OF). Then let go of TRANS. at this point the display will read b.r. The click SETUP to exit the setup. Note: my firmware version is 1546 (bottom right corner of the pc app). I hope this helps.

@@windysynth Thank you; that was tremendous and a bit of work for you. I've played the EWI 1000 for years and years. I bought mine as soon as they were for sale. Sadly, it's failing and I need to figure out what to do with it. The 5000 has been a challenge for me, mostly a challenge to get it set up correctly.

@@CharlesBusada I'm glad I could help. I got the 5000 to replace my broken 4000. I've since gotten a used 4000 Which I prefer, but but the 5000 makes a decent controller, but can be difficult to setup. I recently bought a NuRAD controller--and I love it. But doesn't have a built-in synth. It works great with the MC101. I'm going to do a video about it when I get a chance.

@@timothyking3759 I did my best last night in setting up the 5000. Today I'm taking it to the studio to see how it controls. I was dealing with a severe delay time and need to find out where that parameter is to fix the problem. Also, might you know anyone who can repair an EWI 1000. They don't have near the bells and whistles, but they are lightning fast.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you so much! And, no, I still got the day job.

Thanks for the kind words. I don't really have a way to produce a run of Windy 1 synthesizers to sell, and I'd probably have to charge too much. You'd kind of have to go the hobbyist route like I did and build one yourself. But all the code is on github if you are so inclined. github.com/windysynth/windy1 However, If you can get a hold of an MC-101, you can make some pretty nice patches that play really well with the EWI 5000. I'm editing a video explaining in detail how to create patches for the MC-101 (that work well with the EWI 5k as a MIDI Controller) using Zenology Pro--So stay tuned!

@@windysynth 😁 I'm gonna follow you wherever you go.🙏 Is your background an Electrical engineer of sorts ? MC-101 sounds good will check this . Do you do repair work on the ewi ? My sound software is all corrupted for some reason the program change clear buttons is gone all weird , the left grounding strip just almost make my ewi impossible to play.

@@malcolmraman3825 Yeah, EE. No, I don't do repair work, but I believe Matt at www.patchmanmusic.com/repairs.html might be able to help you. But, unless you've physically damaged the EWI, you should first look at just adjusting everything again and getting it set up correctly. Note: if you end up doing a factory reset it'll wipe out any patch edits you've made with the EWI5000 editor--which is a real pain, but if your stuck sometimes that's all you can do. Then when doing the Calibration edits (with the knobs under the cover thingy), remember that you can only change the values with the knobs. You can't read the setting back without changing it! So as you adjust each calibration write it down somewhere, in case you end up having to do another factory reset. Anyway, if these calibration settings get off, they can make the horn seem like it is physically broken somehow. Here's some values for the CL (calibration) Menu (EWI5000 User Guide pages 22-25 & 47), that I wrote down the last time i was fooling with this: CL>dL>Sensitivity: 14 CL>bS>Sensitivity: 35 to 45 CL>bS>Dynamic Range: 50 to 60 CL>bS>Rate of Change: 75 CL>GL>Sensitivity: 75 CL>GL>Dynamic Range: 15 CL>GL>Rate of Change: 53 CL>PU>Sensitivity: 63 CL>PU>Dynamic Range: 50 CL>PU>Rate of Change: 90 CL>Pd>Sensitivity: 63 CL>Pd>Dynamic Range: 50 CL>Pd>Rate of Change: 90 You can get the user guide on the Akai website (if you don't have it already), I hope this helps.

@@windysynth oh man thanks for this info much appreciated, I am sitting at present with my ewi practicing modes did a couple resets but even the sounds I edited with the edited remains and the preset bank is corrupted as well 😔the annoying intermittent grounding is pure irritating, so I'm gonna tear it apart and do some noseying around gonna try and look wht the memory card is all about.I will keep u posted as to my success or demise🙂

Thanks a lot!

oOReboOo, thanks for your kind words. Here is a list of some links to tutorials for getting up and running with a Teesnsy 4.1 with audio shield and the Arduino build environment on a PC: Here is a general tutorial for getting started with a teensy board (it should work with a Teensy 4.1 as well). www.pjrc.com/teensy/tutorial.html you'll need at least these two boards... www.pjrc.com/store/teensy41.html (you can buy this with or without pins already soldered in) www.pjrc.com/store/teensy3_audio.html (be sure to get the TEENSY4_AUDIO not the TEENSY3_AUDIO) and get the Host Cable www.pjrc.com/store/cable_usb_host_t36.html you'll have to do some soldering to get the pins installed. You can buy some of the Header pins from pjrc.com or get them from Amazon or whatever, but they need to be 0.1 inch spacing. (I'd also get one of those solderless bread board kits with the wires and such if you've never built something like this before). Teensy Audio Tutorial & Workshop (it uses a Teensy 3.0, but you can could use a Teensy 4.1, though you might have to wire it differently to the buttons and things). kzbin.info/www/bejne/raLXZmiFdsaVjNU Then, just get familiar with getting those to boards working first. Then when your ready to get closer to my project you'll need... an oled display: Search Amazon for "OLED LCD Display Module SSD1306 IIC 128x32 LCD OLED Screen 3.3V~5V" (you'd hook this up to 3.3V GND and SCL and SDA. The pins are mentioned in the code for Wire1) and a rotary encoder knob: Search Amazon for "5Pins 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Code Switch Digital Potentiometer with Push Button" (pins A and B of the knob go to pins 30 and 31 of the teensy 4.1. and pin 1 of the knob goes to pin 32 of the teensy 4.1. then pins 2 and C of the knob go to ground). Then the code for the windy1 is here... github.com/windysynth/windy1 There is a green button labeled "Code". Click that to download the Zip file of all the code. Unzip it somewhere on your windows computer and open the windy1.ino file from within the ardruino application. (remember to follow the directions at the top of the windy1.ino file before building the project.) I hope this helps. I may at some point follow this video series up with a more detailed getting started video if I get the time.