Yes. It has an oil seal behind the pulley hub and an o ring around the back cover.

I would think that would be ok, but then again, I'm not enough machinist or engineer to make that call. And I suppose if you had trouble sliding them together you can always open the puck up a bit more.

I'm soooo wanting to get started on that, but it's gonna take a couple hundred at least to get drive shafts done yet again.

... On my Bronco.

@@ahuggins6 cold duck?

@@davesbroncogarage yup

It's got an oil seal behind the pulley and an o-ring on the outside, around the rear cover that I used channel locks to pull out.

@@ahuggins6 Could find and replace them no problem thanks to your detailed video. Thanks again for making it and taking the time to respond to my comment. And, if you happen to be a father, then Happy Father's day as well!

It's interesting you should ask now. We had a couple days of high winds a couple weeks ago. Somehow, even with all the guy wires, it ended up falling over. Guy wires still entact. Every piece is now scrap metal. I have no idea how it was able to move in order to bend over.

@@ahuggins6 - if you put it up again, what would you do differently?

@@honeybadger6127 I would add another set of guy wires. But I have a friend who picked up a channel master pole at a ham fest last week and they've said they might sell that to me cheap. Otherwise, I'd put the 120 or more bux that would toward more conduit into a round h50 or a new channel master. But if someone has neither of those options available without expensive shipping, I'd do the conduit again and make sure it's guyed very stout. One of my guy poi ts was too close to the pole, so that might be the way it moved. I haven't thought too much on the math of it.

I'm near Texarkana. An 09 is going to have a different axle than I'm working on here. Im pretty sure my equipment will not do the job. But I am sure you could buy the right stuff. But maybe for the same price you could buy another rear end from a junk yard.

My thought process: try the pulley. If it doesn’t cut well, we’ll fix it. It’s been cutting just fine since I swapped this engine how many years ago?

There’s a lot of difference in the size of the different joints. So there’s lots of slack. Unless you use a bent joint, it’s easy to slide them up and down. My H50 rohn pole however had a couple screws get tightened too much and so the joints are somewhat misshaped now, which makes it a little difficult sometimes.

@@ahuggins6 OK, Thanks for your reply.

Have no idea what size it is. Works great! In fact, the deck rotted out from under it. I’m going to be replace that deck with an International 3160 deck this winter.

For $15? This is all we need. Thanks for watching!

That’s exactly why I put it up. I’ve read that these things can help grenade the cv axle shafts quicker, but I don’t intend to punish mine for simply being there. I think if a person intends to do hardcore stuff, maybe they should SAS their rig and build it right.

I need to do a follow up and show the curve in the pole that’s left because I don’t have enough guy wires.

People need to quit throwing things away or paying others to fix it and start LEARNING how stuff works!

I don’t have any wiring between them. I have a awg10 from alternator to the hot side of the starter relay. The regulator on the starter goes away. Tape those wires up or remove them completely. The only wire you need to the starter is the batter cable from the relay.

Mows just fine for me.

www.dbelectrical.com/products/new-chevy-mini-alternator-denso-street-rod-race-1-wire.html

Just added a single 10ga wire from alternator to battery side of starter solenoid.

Thanks! I watched my dad as a kid build a couple cobra keys for a 3208 caterpillar engine to mount different accessories. So I thought how hard can it be on a little ol cub?

And by the way, this alternator gave me two more year on that OLD battery. I’ll be replacing it this spring.

I need to put the rest of my footage together. Work has had me pretty backed up tho.

@@ahuggins6 what do you use to edit?

@@davesbroncogarage adobe premier elements.

I was raised by a very mechanically minded dad. He missed his calling to be a design engineer. So did I by being a home body that failed my first year of college and having to come home to a junior college and go back to a school with a full engineering program.

I had absolutely no trouble bolting it up. It was the same block, just a different muffler as far as I could tell. Good luck with it!

@@ahuggins6 hey thanks so much for the video and quick reply....bought my t60 in 2005 and engine blew today ......17 years of cutting and i worked the devil out of it......hope i can find one of the engines you replaced on yours

31r907 at lowes shows 791.97 right now. WOW! I think it was under 600 when I got mine.

@@ahuggins6 yep and they are out of stock LOL ....do you recall what model briggs you replaced if not no worries.

I have an older green version that had a 12.5 and the 17.5 bolted right in to, needed a little rewiring that I paid my brother in law to set up as he is actually a mechanic. But did all the tear down and motor reinstall my self, actually pretty fun.

Thanks. Did you see my video of the distributor rotor on it?

@@ahuggins6 not yet! Looking now

Well, for an update, my mowers sit outside year round. So I’ve got water in the gas and the motor doesn’t run gretlat right now. But it’s good to have a dependable mower! I don’t have any thing on it. I would search for an owners manual for that model number.

@@ahuggins6 I tried to find an online owner's manual but B&S doesn't support their own engine. I have written them, tried to call them, and even the online search points to that model but then says an error has occurred and they just say, "too bad". Not the company they once were. I appreciate your reply.

This one should get you there. The short block is probably the exact same from one number to the next. The second and third codes are probably things like carb jet sizes or mufflers or combinations of those. www.thepowerportal.com/ipls/ipl.htm?md=31R9770028G1~_IPLURL_LO.pdf

I don’t think Ford ever produced a straight housing!

@@ahuggins6 hahaha the one I got is out of a mach 1 that was side swiped lol, its not bad but need to be fixed, thanks for the info!!!!

For any ford power steering pump I’ve ever had make the typically Ford PS “whine,” Lucas Oil power steering conditioner has always made it a lot better. In fact, I had air trapped my F350’s steering system one time that would not bleed out. Hard to turn the wheels in a parking lot. The Lucas Oil conditioner had it fixed very quickly! There is no bearing in this pump that can go bad.

@@ahuggins6 thank you for response if there is no bearing why the sound coming maybe there is sleeve or pushing damage because it missing oil while starting what i can do to repairs the pump change seals cleaning the pressure hose difficult to remove in ford

I originally ordered it from d electrical.com but it looks like they don’t carry it anymore. I think this link will get you the same thing tho. New Mini Denso Style Alternator Replacement For GM Chevy BBC SBC Race Cars, Street Rod, Hot Rod 1-Wire One Wire Hookup 35 Amps Lightweight www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQSSRLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_FHG5QM3KJGS12F5H4RDQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cool. I’m too lazy. I’ve since run 2-0 cables from the battery on my cub to crank it with. Works like a charm.

I built the bracket myself. This is totally a homemade deal. I can’t even remember the website i got the alternator from. And I think I was able to do away with the field wire because that alternator is what’s considered a true one wire alternator.

ok thank you

Model number 31R907. Ordered from Lowe’s.com. That is not their stock/sku/item number. But I think if you search Lowe’s.com it should you there.

Heat the point that you want to shrink. When it cools it will always shrink to a smaller dimension than it started.

Awesome thanks for the video. Gonna try tomorrow with two mapp gas torches, if it doesn't work gonna pick up an oxy setup on Monday, I've always wanted one but couldn't justify it

@@jaimereyes7480 I can tell you MAP won’t do it. And oxy/ace is not cheap to start up.

What size and style tip is on your torch?

@@jaimereyes7480 I honestly don't know. For heating anything quickly, though, a rosebud torch is best.

I’ve had a couple pumps get quieter with Lucas PS conditioner.

@@ahuggins6 exactly what I'm gonna do with my truck, put some Lucas in it. It doesn't wine real bad, I've had much worse so that should do the trick. Ford never could make a good power steering pump.

Great video showing the guts of this pump.