if that was me i tell his asshole he be ticket & arrest for running a stop sign & etc

Yep, just check out this video that proves your comment! watch?v=tLxnNP-ycVQ

It all depends on the bands, the modified Barnett slingshot on the top (green and black one) has bands on it that rated at around 80-100# draw (thera-band grey). the rest of the bands are at around 50~70 pound draw.

pvm warchief depends on your gear ratio too though

house house for u it looks electric cuz of a brake

+Garrett Vickers MTB has multiple speeds a lot of weight, BMX only has one speed, you can choose for a super light weight frame or strong medium weight frame and have good results its all depends on what you like to do. Road bikes would be good for cruising around the city or town.

+TheDokta187 Thanks, picked up a MTB and after some repair I love it! Figured why get a bmx if im never gonna learn any tricks 😂

I switched from MTB back to my roots which was racing BMX since the early 80`s,mainly due to less moving parts to break.I was into Downhill/trail riding on the North Shore and got tired of having to push my bike home.1 gear is all I need in Vancouver,and I ride with the old style large front chain ring 45t racing sprocket and a 17t cassette rear sprocket.This gear ratio is very fast and not too bad on uphill grades and is ideal for cross town scrambling and hill bombing.I ride an Aluminum Diamondback racing frame and fork with standard axle and use some MTB parts so it`s a bit of a hybrid.I Like to have my seat raised for distance riding about 8 or 9 inches and about 3 or 4 if I am jumping because I am 6`1" and I can adjust it easily without having to get out my tools(sealed headset,quick release seat post clamp,seat post,brake arms and seat are MTB parts.I use them because they fit and are designed to take a beating.)I like the lower center of gravity and tighter turning radius of a 20" BMX frame and the total weight is about 22 lbs.,which is reasonable.I could get it lighter,but my heavier components like crank arms and bars (even my forks) are going to hold up to what I put it through.This set up is not for grinding rails or riding parks/ramps(you really should not grind an Aluminum frame or drop it the wrong way or you could break a weld or ding the frame( it could bend or crack the frame,but I have not broken an Aluminum BMX frame since I snapped my PK Ripper. in 1986(yea..I`m that old)I can do huge bunny hops and go big on jumps,as well as beat road bikes off the starting line for over 100 yards before they catch up,because I am not having to shift through the gears and the smaller wheel spins with less effort,and the advantage is being able to take lines that a road bike could not take or even be attempted.I have had the same wheels for 12 years and they are still true,and that is due to knowing how to land correctly and how to maintain proper spoke tension,which is very important to maintain the overall performance.I have had so many bikes over the years,but I was able to get it reduced to 1 bike set up the way I want it for the last 8 years without changing much to it,considering when I was building bikes I owned about 6 that I could choose(MTB,BMX,xcountry hybrids) from depending on what I was type of terrain,but unlike this answer,I now keep it simple...I hope to still be riding when I am 80,which is still over 35 years after 40 year so far in BMX.Never assume that a person is too old for BMX...for me,it is something that has been with me since I was a kid and have seen the evolution of the sport,and riding keeps me in top shape,when fitness is critical for men my age.Guys half my age can rarely keep up,since my secret is in the riding technique and component selection.Sorry about the lecture...it could go on.but I will stop here...

I paid 200$ for mine and built it up with all the lightest parts I could find,I`ve had it since 2008 and still love it.I don`t do freestyle,but it is a great bike for bunny hops and jumping,and my gear ratio is set for racing.If you are going to be doing grinds and big drops you could destroy it if you are brutal,but if you can land right and keep from letting your bike slam on concrete,it should be able to handle what you can throw at it...it`s a race frame so bear that in mind....and make sure if you ride any aluminum frame,always use a chain tensioner on the rear drop out(chain tension on aluminum frames will always slip with steel axle nuts...very important to know this,believe me)

I would offer 150$ and see what they say...it is a bit steep,but the 200$ I bought mine for was money well spent.If they hum and haw go up 25$,if you can get it for 200$ or less it would be worth it.If you were to buy it to flip it for a profit,it would not make sense because there would be no profit margin really...I also ride slicks,and a BMX is easier to take on elevators and in stairwells,and it is very light,I can carry it by the seat resting on my shoulder without any problem.I have been offered up to 500$ for mine,but I have some high end parts with sealed bearing head set/BB and wheels...I also don`t think I could replace it for less.Are you in Canada?250$US is way too much unless you can see that much in parts on it...

I'm assuming English is not your primary language

Couch Potato not even close

You'd come back headless

Sonny Coulthard by going on the side of the road?

Okay, who gives....

Obviously you do if you took the time to comment.