Would you considder testing an "Endlesss X Frame"? It is a longer X gantry frame to make the cantalevered design more solid.

the plastic piece in the middle of the plum coupling is called a Lovejoy. funny i know but very minor differences in lovejoy and plum couplings

just print a z axis coupler out of something like 95a TPU.

How am I supposed to do the vertical drop? I would need a perfectly level desk and theres too much play/leverage in the lead screw for it to channel it straight down

First of all: Thanks for this awesome video! I wanted to add that using the plum couplings to be able to remove the bearring stabilizer only works in case there is a dual z axis setup or there is no sync belt between the axis. Or am I wrong here?

I have an Ender 5 S1. I printed your wobble tower. It had two bands near the very bottom that weakened the print. I broke off the bottom with little pressure. The rest of the tower printed awsome and was strong; I was shocked. Any idea about the bands?

How about straightening the lead screws? why nobody has tried this? Is it possible or is it too hard?

Absolutely insane production and tips, you deserve more recognition

love it !!

I've upgraded/modded almost all of mine by now, and it works pretty well, but GOD is it slow...lol

I had to shim my z axis motor away from the frame by 2mm. It was not centered to the lead screw hole and was causing binding that wore out my lead screw nut. Now everything is centered perfectly and I replaced the lead screw nut with a pom nut. Works very smooth now.

I did some maintenence and thightend the bras nut up. Left no play. Thougt it needed to be thight. Thanks, fixed my problem. I will try the oldham nut and motor coupling.

I wonder if the price has changed since this video... but it looks like the combined stepper motor and lead screw is like... 10 bucks cheaper than buying the oldham, pom nut, thrust bearing, and plum couplers seperately. (Assuming you only have 1 z axis and not dual, obviously). Am I missing something or no? Trying to decide what to pick up...

Such a bizzare device. However i've been looking for something to use with my id card becayse my retractable card holder has broken

❤ Very funny.😂

Ta engraçado 😂

Já quero fazer encomenda 🎉🎉🎉

brabo demais

She smart

He can't help himself

Would you recommend professional or klipper?

I hate prusa printers because its a simple printer and 600 dollars????

At 12:48, what kind of grease is that?

I came here to find out how to fix z wobble and this guy is just taking his printer apart and printing mods for it, not a clear tutorial at all

As a beginner experiencing this issue.. Why is it even required to print off all these “mods” for the printer? They should come standard, 3d printers are crap

Well done.

nice systematic approach.

I got a used ender 3 Max. I was loving it up until one day I thought it was doing layer shifts. It's getting really frustrating. I kept doing different things to try to figure out what is happening. Watching this video I think it is z banding. Im so excited to get home and try some of the things in the video.

Very good, video helped a lot!

Thanks for your time and info

Great idea! I’m working on something and this was a huge help. Appreciate it!

Solid info! Also.... if you run Klipper/Moonraker on your machine, use BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default instead. of course changing "default" to whatever your bed mesh name is.

Nice production quality. Wish my videos looked that good !

Bro Love your videos ❤😅

I'm sorry, its been bothering the hell out of me.... ec·cen·tric [ikˈsentrik]

I hope you're getting paid in some way shape or form for this Awesome content! Thank you so much. Learned a lot. Picked up an Anycubic Chiron for $40, of course with issues, but this will help me get closer to more quality prints. Thanks!

I appreciate your video, trying to figure out how to enclose my ender 3 pro

Telling people to use a level to tram a printer, holy crap please delet. Suggesting Esteps for manufactured printers is silly af. You should NOT be able to spin the left set of wheels, but you should be able to on the right side. The left cluster on the Ender 3 is the one that's driven. I love you guys for wanting to be helpful, but holy crap this is one of the videos spreading all the misinformation.

2024 and a video showing the operation of the ender 3 😁 I thought that it was no longer possible to record a video about this printer 😅

What do you do about the Z axis not advancing upward after adding a CR Touch?

Great video

Тоже столкнулся с такой проблемой на своем принтере. Но, проблема оказалась не в оси Z... Хотя Стефан из CNC Kitchen говорил про PID кровати, что также исправил, но основных проблем было 2 - это прецизионная настройка шагов экструдера и коэффициента потока в слайсере. Второй момент - неправильная заводская сборка колес каретки экструдера. Пересобрал по собственной методике и точность позиционирования возросла на порядок! Думаю, что простая копеечная модификация позволила довести точность такую, как для линейного рейлинга. Напишите мне в ответ, и я постараюсь дать подробный ответ как это сделать. Удачи!

13:54 just use WD-40 😂

Do YOU have trypophobia?

Why was adding the extra z motor a mistake? I am looking to do the upgrade to dual and then I will purchase the board you got. I’m not too confident on the firmware side but I’m sure I’ll figure it out

Man what a gem of a video to have so few views

I just want to concur with many countless other people with the production quality of this video and how much it helps. Thank you for your time as I know it was very time-consuming.

Thats all fine and dandy but some Z Banding, wobble, whatever can also be caused by the wheels on the x gantry riding on the frame if they are not perfectly round. They can cause z banding, I've tested this extensitivly with my original ender 3 that didnt have duel z screws. After disabling my Z motors in the printer screen, you raise the gantry up and down with two fingers and if there is any resistance as the wheels go up and down you have an issue with a flat spot on the wheels. The issue can be very slight so you have to really get a good feel for how the wheels feel against the frame. This can happen more then not when the printer has been sitting for extended periods of time not being used, the tight wheels will deform over time against the Z extrusion frame. This can even happen when putting the printer together if care is not taken when mounting the X gantry and the wheels are grouged when fitted onto the z extrusion frame. Lead screews can be a problem but could also be other issues.

weirdly i have two V2s one has a sprite and xl kit fitted never had one issue with it always adears ect the other one iv got is kinda like this i changed the extruder to the duel gear one with a bi metal heat break and its been absolute fine since both have CR touch not BL touch that's the biggest issue with them but then u get what you pay for

M12 rails are the easiest and most worthwhile fixfor this