Yes, I noticed changes in all the growth patterns of the trees we prune. Basically, when the inner crown is removed as it is so often, it causes lower limbs to grow long, which then see the light of day at the end of the crown and start to grow thick, causing codominance. Codominance then causes included bark which eventually causes breakage. We find those limbs that start low and go to high places and subordinate them with reduction cuts. Those same limbs usually tend to be a one-to-one aspect ratio with their leader, or trunk. Keep lower limbs lower and allow the main trunk to dominate.

Certainly, Overtime, your mesquite will naturally form a large umbrella crown. Nurturing the lower crown is key to having a strong scaffolding system that includes that large umbrella you are striving for. In other words nurture the inner crown (the lower limbs) of your mesquite and do not remove them. Do this by making reduction cuts to avoid dysfunctionality (I.E. reduced from walkway, street, house, etc.) Keeping the lower crown reduced (not removing it completely) will also keep what should be lower away from what should be dominant allowing the "umbrella" to defy our monsoons. The "block shape" you mentioned will also be avoided when you keep the lower crown subordinate through reduction cuts.

@@AZnomad of corse. Hope it was useful to you.

Thanks for saying so, I suggest you become an ISA Certified Arborist. Doing so will give you much knowledge and increase your resources. Good luck!

Very Welcome

Excellent point!

Burls are an especially weak point on a limb. So definitely not!

Glad it was helpful.

Great question! Not a short answer. When a limb is removed from its leader that is called a "Thinning" cut. Thinning, Lion Tailing and removing the inner canopy are all the same thing. We make "Reduction" cuts to avoid "Thinning" cuts. "Reduction" cuts are cutting a leader back to a branch. There are three main reasons to make reduction cuts and avoid thinning cuts. In other words, there are three main reasons to nurture the inner canopy and not remove it. 1. A tree has an actual physiological response to thinning by growing weak and long. The opposite is true for a reduction cut which encourages future growth to be thicker in diameter and stronger. So, thinning creates weakness and length while reduction causes thickness and strength. 2. The inner canopy is more sensitive to sunlight since it is naturally more shaded it collects nutrients from the sun during low light conditions like cloud cover but even more importantly at dusk and dawn which occurs six to seven hours every day of the tree's life. Add that up and it is a lot of time that trees without inner canopies are not able to photosynthesize. 3. The inner canopy acts as a vibration reduction system minimizing the energy/vibration from the wind going to the ends of limbs. Another significant reason to keep the inner canopy on your mesquite: Since thinning grows limbs quicker in length, those limbs start to see the light of day and become codominant with the leader or trunk. This leads to a 1 to 1 aspect ratio in diameter which leads to included bark which leads to a large lower limb tearing completely off. This is very common due to inner canopies being removed. You can accomplish your goal for shade with making reduction cuts and keeping the tree functionally away from whatever you do not want it near. For more clarification try watching my video on Reduction vs. Thinning.

Very glad to help!

Glad to help!

Glad to help! Sometimes that snap cut is all you got and you definitely don't want it to snap before you have your hands on it.

Thanks

You are right! I should have used the term crown which refers to an individual tree as opposed to a canopy which refers to a community of trees as in a forest.

@@ArboristAdvice I do the same all the time. good work solid arborist stuff much love brother

I do not have a pine pruning video; however , the same “Reduction” concept can be used. The slight difference is in the growth patterns of pines but leaders can still be pruned back to branches which is “Reduction”.

Glad it was helpful!

Try watching our video on Reduction Vs. Thinning. Although structure/branch pattern varies among trees, the Reduction concept remains the same.

Yes! Growing wider or longer without breaking is what Reduction cuts accomplish. Thinning cuts (taking branches off of leaders/taking out the middle) lead to fast growing weak length which leads to breakage.

Thank you for saying so! I’m glad “Mesquites & Palo Verdes, A Home Owner’s Guide” was useful to you.

Thanks for the compliment.

So glad to help. I've always thought this information not to be common sense but once you learn it, it makes sense.

Yes, absolutely. The differences are found in the patterns of branch attachment and how many branches are attached but the concept of reducing back to a branch and not thinning off branches still applies.

Hi Mr. Murphy, Thank you for commenting with your insight. Cutting leaders back to branches that are less than 1/3rd the diameter of the leader you are removing is simply a rule of thumb which tries to avoid the home owner reducing back to a limb which has not yet formed enough to assume the new leader role. Certainly, if all limbs have been removed as in a "lion tailed" limb then one must reduce back to whatever may be available which might possibly be less than 1/3rd. Regarding your dislike of the three cut pruning method: is there another technique you use to avoid tearing a limb that is too heavy to manually control?

preferable 1/3 not required. Still best practice, just my opinion GREAT VIDEO

@@jessehuffman3502 "best" compared to what???.. because thge way that I was taught, you just cut te entire limb off if there isn't a lateral 1/3 diameter to take the lead. WHICH IS COMPLETE GARBAGE... take as much weight off as needed in that given scenario and let the tree regrow from there... even a stub that can put out sprouts from latent buds

You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.

Thank you!

Glad to help!

Rather than asking when is the best time to prune a mesquite in the Sonoran desert, the better question is when not to prune. Avoid pruning out significant green within 6 to 8 weeks of new growth. Explanation: The tree spends all winter storing up nutrients. If we remove limbs within 6 to 8 weeks of growth then the tree will get no return for its investment. If you have taken out the interior of the tree which is unfortunately very common then give it some time to regrow the inner canopy. Nurture the inner canopy so to speak. The tree will grow new "suckers" as a response to trying to regrow the inner canopy. Allow it to do so. Hope that was helpful.

Sorry it’s taking me a year to reply. I hope your mesquite pruning went well. A year later I’m sure you can see the results.

Yes! Making REDUCTION cuts to avoid THINNING cuts not only decreases leverage and weight which raises a limb but it also keeps inner material which absorbs the energy of wind and collects nutrients from the sun in low light conditions that happen every day at dusk and dawn. It's all about nurturing the inner canopy.

Very glad you are putting this information to use!

Glad it was helpful!

Mesquite bark that is older tends to peel and curl up or to the side. The growth is mistletoe. Keep removing it while trying not to remove the limbs it is on. Good luck!

Glad to help!

Glad you think so...

Price factors include not only the amount of material but also the access to the tree and what part of the country you are located.

Thanks for watching.

@Romeo Tree Service, LLC. may I send you a picture of my tree?I am Asking to wait or not hope? I have put fertilizer stakes as instructed, it was thinned over the summer, and the desert heat was traumatic , your thoughts?

@@_1ben Please do send a photo..

@@ArboristAdvice thank you, i sent to your email, just in your opinion wait or remove

@@_1ben Not finding your email. Please go to RomeoTreeService.com to find my email.