@@LokiDWolf Glad you found it useful. The big takeaway is to keep and nurture the inner crown of the tree. Don’t remove the middle.

@@originaljazzgirl Glad you think so. By making reduction cuts we ultimately form a fuller and stronger inner crown.

@@TIMBERxTrees There are versions of the same product that are two red blinking lights resembling an animal’s eyes in the darkness. Solar powered. Designed to scare off predators but seems to be effective on deer.

@@joshny4766 I will reassess the tree’s stability annually to determine if the guying system can be removed. Guying younger or newly planted trees is always considered to be temporary, but with older trees it is occasionally a permanent status. Similar to if you were installing a support post. If it does end up being permanent, I am not concerned about the reaction wood forming overtime. Also, if I do determine that the system is going to be permanent, I will more than likely change the attachment to the tree with a through bolt and not keep it around the circumference. If it does end up being temporary, then reduction cuts are made to mitigate the possible lack of reaction wood. The turnbuckles are very easy to adjust. I suggest getting the largest “duck bill“ system possible for the 20 foot juniper. Something to consider: I did not point this out in the video; however, if you are in ground that is known to have large rocks or boulders underneath then it is very easy to lose one of the duck bills, as it will not push through the boulder, and you cannot pull it back out other than digging it up.

@@codygregory5883 Glad to know it! This information is not common sense but once you hear it, it makes sense.

@@EasyZ-p1e You’re welcome!

@@josetliff4289 Glad to help!

@@mattjones5175 to keep your Palo Verde smaller first start out with not watering too much. After it is established water no more than once a month in the summer and maybe one time in the winter depending on rainfall of course. If you prune your Palo Verde with reduction cuts, and you avoid thinning cuts, it is going to tend to “hold the prune“ a lot longer. In other words, it will stay away from the things that you do not want it near for a greater amount of time between prunings. If your concern is with the height of the tree, you may also make reduction cuts on the upper limbs in the same fashion that you reduce the lower horizontal limbs. Just be sure that you have not taken out the inner crown or you will not have anything to reduce down to. You can only reduce to a branch that the tree has offered so do yourself and the tree of favor and refrain from cutting off those offers. If you do end up making reduction cuts for height reduction, it is best to do so after the summer since Palo Verdes are extremely prone to sun damage.

​@@ArboristAdvice It all makes sense to me now! Thank you so much. This tree is the showpiece on the corner of our desert-landscaped property in a rather large area section. Lot's of great comments from people re this tree...mostly because of your tips on pruning. Thank you so much for taking the time!

@@mattjones5175 Glad to hear our videos are helping care for your Palo Verde. I've always thought of this information as not being common sense but once you hear it, it makes complete sense.

Whoa whoa! Don’t think I said that in the video.. We make reduction cuts in part to avoid making thinning cuts. A little more detail: we make reduction cuts, primarily for three reasons. 1. To reduce a limb away from something that we do not want it near. 2. To decrease the amount of leverage that the wind has over a previously lion tailed limb that has grown long and weak. 3. To subordinate a low limb that is growing into a high place. I hope this clarifies for you.

@@alicemoore1367 just as it was popular to “top” trees in the 1960’s & 70’s, it is now popular to “lion tail” which is essentially the removal of the inner crown. As the word gets out more and more tree owners learn of the benefits of nurturing the inner crown.

@@adamevans8234 by “safe”, I believe you are asking if it healthy for the palm tree. When palms are pruned with the removal of only minimal green fronds, they do not require pruning as often, and therefore would not need to be spiked annually. Certainly a healthier option for Palm pruning is to gain access with the boom truck but this is not always possible in a backyard due to limited reach. Another possibility is to use a crane with a man basket but this is usually not cost effective for most customers. Although it may seem like a straight forward answer, there are many factors to consider in the arboriculture industry including health, function, safety and cost. An encompassing consideration of all the factors makes arboriculture services available to everyone in our community.

Thank you for your reply, good advice

Glad to help!

I've also seen them for sale on amazon with only the duck bill and a cable for tying down anything to the ground. Tables, benches etc.

@@nimajnebrm Pruning with reduction cuts, or structural pruning applies to every tree. The differences you find will be in the growth patterns of each species.

@@saima08k So glad it was useful to you.

@@TomJerry-yr5vv two answers to that question: yes, cut it off if you absolutely need that limb to be gone. In other words, if it is in the way, and there is nothing you can do to get it out of the way then cut it off. If you do not need it out of the way immediately, then give it some time because it may grow sprouts on it. If it does grow a sprout, even though that sprout may only look like a blade of grass at first, it will eventually become thick in diameter and may even be a significant part of the crown umbrella. At that point, you can reduce back to the new sprout.

I think the question is, why would I remove the lower limbs?

@@TomJerry-yr5vv the issue you are referring to is “co-dominance”. If the union of the codominant limbs is a U union there is not muchconcern. However, if the union is a “V” union, the two limbs may start to push against one another as they become thicker in diameter. To lessen this likelihood, choose which limb you want to be dominant. Then, Make reduction cuts throughout the limb that should be subordinate so that you make it essentially “less than”. This will give the main dominant trunk, the opportunity to become “greater than”. Do this over 3 to 5 years rather than all at once. It’s a process. If there is already evidence of splitting at the union of your codominant trunks, then consider supplemental support with cabling and bracing.

@@wombatop4069 You got it. Live in the solution. Be safe or better yet, pay attention.

@@ArboristAdvice I am not a person with any ego. Been screwed over by people who seemed good in the begining. I am happy to hear from you. Thanks for your feedback

Your are welcome!

@@alexdroban4312 Of corse. Glad to help.

You bet!

@@bradholland241 Thanks. You bet! I was going for baroque.

Hey. Thanks for noticing.

The risk of codominant trunks is that they start to become included by pushing up against one another. I did not mention in the video that this does not hold true if the union is a “U” union and not a “V”union. When the union is tight like the letter “V” then the codoms are likely to eventually push against one another. If this is the case with your desert willow then pick the leader and subordinate what should be the lower limbs. Don’t try to do this all in one season. The larger and more mature the tree then the longer the correction will take. Even if you are never completely successful with creating absolute dominance, the scaffolding system will be stronger having simply been pruned with that goal in mind.

@@susanvose8713 Thank you Susan!

Yes, I noticed changes in all the growth patterns of the trees we prune. Basically, when the inner crown is removed as it is so often, it causes lower limbs to grow long, which then see the light of day at the end of the crown and start to grow thick, causing codominance. Codominance then causes included bark which eventually causes breakage. We find those limbs that start low and go to high places and subordinate them with reduction cuts. Those same limbs usually tend to be a one-to-one aspect ratio with their leader, or trunk. Keep lower limbs lower and allow the main trunk to dominate.

Certainly, Overtime, your mesquite will naturally form a large umbrella crown. Nurturing the lower crown is key to having a strong scaffolding system that includes that large umbrella you are striving for. In other words nurture the inner crown (the lower limbs) of your mesquite and do not remove them. Do this by making reduction cuts to avoid dysfunctionality (I.E. reduced from walkway, street, house, etc.) Keeping the lower crown reduced (not removing it completely) will also keep what should be lower away from what should be dominant allowing the "umbrella" to defy our monsoons. The "block shape" you mentioned will also be avoided when you keep the lower crown subordinate through reduction cuts.

@@PalmBros of corse. Hope it was useful to you.

Thanks for saying so, I suggest you become an ISA Certified Arborist. Doing so will give you much knowledge and increase your resources. Good luck!

Very Welcome

Excellent point!

Glad you found the video.

Burls are an especially weak point on a limb. So definitely not!