No. Then you wouldn’t be able to remove the timing cover. Just gently lower the weight down on to the other two mounts and let it hang.

Yes.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thanks for the reply, will it also feel like a vibrating like on your seat, or gas pedal? I’m taking mine in tomorrow to get looked at

Yes, it can feel like a vibration in the seat or gas pedal. You are welcome.

Zep brake cleaner.

Zep brake cleaner. I do not have part numbers. You can get the balancer removal tool and the installer kit WITH deep LS engine adapters at most auto parts stores.

Replaced the pipe under warranty and it was fixed. Your vehicle might have an expired warranty, otherwise it should be a covered failure if it’s the same cracked pipe.

I do what I can… Thanks for watching!

I have seen better and I have seen worse… This is what I typically see of a vehicle that has been maintained only when they maintenance light turns on and or using cheap quick lube oil it’s whole life. Thanks!

Sounds like you have an engine drivability issue that needs to be diagnosed.

I did. I’ll go over that in the next video. It was a dream to do all of the work on the engine stand.

Transmission fluid pump for sure. Service the transmission fluid and filter, it might help if the filter has never been replaced.

I noticed your video said you already unbolted the torque converter and still had a noise… it’s hard to say whether the torque converter would still spin or not. GM advises not to do that because the pilot of the torque converter can still rub on the inside of the crankshaft. Another choice would be the vacuum pump or other belt driven accessory…. Though I believe your video said the belts had been removed too. In that case it may be normal depending on just how loud it is. Every one of these trucks that I work on has that noise, but it’s not too loud. The ones that are howling loudly almost always turn out to be the transmission pump. With the torque converter disconnected from the engine and the belts removed, the only thing left to make that sort of noise could be the crankshaft, camshaft, possible roller lifter on one of the lifters or the lifter for the high pressure fuel pump.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thanks very much for taking a look and your reply. I will do further investigation of the transmission oil pump.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thanks very much for taking a look. I will hunt around town for others and compare noise. If mine is comparatively excessive, I will do further research into the transmission pump. Thanks again for all the tips in your video, it really helped a lot on a complex job.

Thank you very much!

If fluid level is ok and the transmission won’t move in any gear then it’s likely a failed transmission.

I’m glad you found it helpful. I was trying to get the repair done and film at the same time as well as drive the vehicle home same day. Next time I’ll do a more in depth guide… I never realized this video would even be popular.

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist yesirrrr still tremendously helpful i wish I had time to film while I did it but no time to do both wife needs her car lord willing I can finish it tomorrow after work

Well I hope it doesn’t give you too much trouble.

Glad I could help!

Thanks!

9 out of 10 truck owners would be better off owning a gas engine unless you really really really need to tow heavy every day. Even then…. The gasser will still pull just fine. The coolant reservoir is known to cause false low coolant messages so it’s likely not even low on coolant. There is an updated part. If low on coolant it needs to be diagnosed ASAP before the engine overheats. Most all repairs, maintenance, and service on modern vehicles is not user friendly anymore. Even basic procedures require a shop visit and an expensive scan tool.

Can easily be done on jack stands. Just raise it up high enough to work. I’d suggest large 6 ton jack stacks for enough height.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist awesome. Thanks a ton. This video simplified the 91 pictures I took of the ever confusing process via the ProDemand/Mitchell1 software we use at work

I am glad you found it helpful. I parked the car overnight so it would be cold in the morning… Performed repair and video recording, etc. Took about 7 hours, then drove the car home same day. So it can be done in one day if needed.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist perfect. Thank you for such an informative video

You are welcome. I do what I can.

What year and model is this?

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you for your reply It’s a 1.0 EcoBoost ST Line Business, 125HP, 2018 This dashboard message was active every day for weeks before it turned into a check engine light. The diagnosis of the check engine light was about the threshold of the catalyst. (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) The catalyst and sensors were replaced today and the dashboard message (that the limit of the filter is reached) appeared a few minutes after I picked my car from the mechanic. The strange part is the dashboard message instructs me to drive apparently to start a regeneration process but nothing happens. If I press OK on the steering wheel the dashboard message disappears until the next time I start my engine and drive for a few minutes. Could it be that the dashboard message needs a reset or maybe a software update at Ford.

Maybe. Sometimes it’s a little harder to fool the ECM when there are specific oxygen sensor operational tests… I do have a couple of cars with a P0420 code around here… maybe this will call for some experimentation.

Heat shrink tubing from the hardware store

Thanks for watching!

My phone or a GoPro sometimes.

Thanks! Yes there is nothing better than taking something apart and then finding out a little surprise which derails the repair.

It’s not normal on a gas engine unless it’s the EVAP purge valve ticking at idle which is commonly mistaken for an engine noise.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist and what sort of symptoms should I experience if this is happening besides the ticking noise? If you type on YT there are tons of ford gasoline engines v6 and v8 having the typewriter infamous sound that Ford claims its harmless, a boat loads of videos on YT reporting this phenomenon and for some it started happening as early as 9-10K miles on a brand new vehicle. Makes me wonder if mine has been doing longer than 10 years I just didn't paid too much attention to the noise back then.

Another video might have the clue: "@RVTerruvia. 6mo ago As someone who has fixed Keurig machines, there are two pumps. One is a water pump that fills the heating chamber. The secondary pump is actually an air pump. First, you select the cup size. That will determine how much water goes into the heating chamber. Then, the air pump will force the hot water out, and pump some air through to make sure all the water is out of the heating chamber, causing a hissing noise at the end of the brewing cycle. Then the water pump fills the heating chamber again in preparation for the next brewing cycle."

Nice. I just prefer old fashioned 1800s technology coffee makers anymore.

I think they did, but I never heard back about it. Watch the bonus video too, I’m certain it needed an ECM after having a second vehicle to compare it with.

Thanks! Yes, it was one of the first 9 speed transmissions I’d ever had to take apart.

Thanks!

Yes it should do it.

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist i am definitely going to get one... I. Chasing an issue on my 03 Hummer right now...

It is a good purchase… They don’t even give me any kickbacks for it… I’ve been using it for a while and it does just about everything that my factory scan tool will do except programming.

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist well I just need to be able to do stuff. Unfortunately they are making it harder and harder to work on vehicles. I have been do it since I was a kid. And the fact I can't even do my brakes on my silverado without putting in a brake service mode is dumb... but i appreciate you responding and for the info..

@tomchristensen2914 you are welcome

You’d have to verify the powers, grounds, and the communication circuits. TCM failures seem to be rare on the ones that are internal to the transmission.

Also oddly enough I just enquired the truck with 256,500 miles . It also had low black nasty fluid , I changed it and the filter and it made about 45miles and shortly after I hammered down on gas petal to sped up and it started whiny noise almost instantly afterwards! All original parts except new trans filter and fluid

Customer declined repairs so I never did find out for sure… I really think it was the transmission pump because that’s where the noise seemed to be coming from. I would remove the serpentine belt… And then, if the noise is still present, I would suspect the transmission pump. If you can use a stethoscope to hone in on the source of the noise and confirm that’s even better.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thank you replying! I’m pretty certain you’re on to something here . I’ll remove the belt and try it but I pretty certain it’s not anything accessory related . I’ve never heard a noise this loud and whiny from a vehicle before. I’m gonna be doing the work myself because I cannot afford anything else lol. Idk if it’s able to be rebuilt or replaced with good used one . I hate to price out a brand new one but will check all 3 options. Appreciate your advice!

@chadriddle3517 you are welcome.

Well the noise is definitely coming from the transmission! I wonder if best bet is to just replace whole trans with a used one . Or attempt to just replace the pump. Trans has 265k so I’m thinking good used entire trans

That sounds about right for a cold operation. Evidently the new pump performs better than the old pump. Don’t forget, this is a dual stage oil pump… It can be in low output mode or high output mode. You could confirm this with scan tool data.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist great - thanks for the help.

You are welcome

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist ...to follow up on the high oil pressure. It settled down pretty quick after just a couple minutes of running. Cold idle 45 psi. Warm idle 25psi, cruise 40psi, under load 50psi.

All that you should really have to do is service the fluids if they have not been done yet. Check for any fluid leaks. Check for worn steering/suspension/brakes, etc. Otherwise they don’t have any major problems that are known to show up at high miles besides AFM lifters.

Heat shrink tubing.

Ain’t got time for dat.

If installed correctly they tend to last longer without leaks, but they usually have more risk when installing and require more care.

​@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistso the other type of seal has a metal spring inside

No. A small leak like that wouldn’t have really any effect on how the engine runs or acts, but is enough to cause the catalytic converter test to fail and cause a check engine light.

I used a floor jack with a block of wood carefully on the oil pan.

But when we remove the oil pan, can we remove the jack and leave the engine “hanging”? Or can we put the jack somewhere else at that moment? Thank you very much in advance!

Yes, you can carefully leave it hanging.

Perfect! Thank you very much my friend! I'll do it on Saturday and come back to give feedback.

Sounds good. You are welcome.

Yes it is easier to get from below. I removed the fender liner for access. The sensor was a speed sensor from the local auto parts store.

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist yes but there is an input and output sensor, and I have struggled to confirm when searching the part that I am getting the input one. Also looks like it may be identical for both.

Both the input and output speed sensor are the same part number.

I earned my pennies. Not a terrible job to do. Tragically this is becoming common.

I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!

Kent-Moore or your local dealer. As far as I know, they are on backorder and difficult to obtain.

Possible valve rocker/lifter noise.

Not likely unless it’s close to the cat or oxygen sensor.

They don’t want the little guy to have that kind of power.

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist replacement of my 2017 GMC Acadia thermostat cost $1,078. Part was $18. Labor was 7 hours. Replaced at 195,000 miles.

Sounds about right if they had to remove the injectors for access. Otherwise the way I do it, which happens to be the updated procedure is about 2hr-3hr R&R plus diagnostics. Depends if they replace the entire pipe as an assembly or not, sometimes you can only get the part as a whole assembly and if so, then that would indeed require the injectors and rails to be removed.

Thanks for watching!

None of those codes should prevent it from cranking. You erase codes and they come back immediately? You will likely need a scan to capable of reading all of the modules for codes. Launch GM scan tool from my videos works well and is cheap. Otherwise, being a hybrid diagnosis will likely be complicated… Parts are likely also unavailable.

@ Correct I erase codes and they immediately come back. Also showing code P0AC4 sometimes. Where would I find the scan tool?

P0AC4 will absolutely be the cause of the no crank, it just means there is a code stored in the HPCM for the hybrid system. The Launch GM scan tool is on Amazon for $200 or less. Excellent purchase if you plan to do regular work on GM vehicles. Otherwise you’re likely better off spending that $200 at a capable dealership to have it diagnosed. And since a lot of parts are discontinued these vehicles can be a real challenge to repair.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thanks I’ll get one of my buddies who owns a shop to check it out for me. Really appreciate all the help. I figured it was something electrical because the truck was driving fine and went to pull off from stop light and it cut off and hasn’t moved since.