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@IntrusiveFerrit
@IntrusiveFerrit 3 ай бұрын
I want to go out to JT! Looks fun and earned another subscriber!
@WheelinMatt
@WheelinMatt 6 ай бұрын
I’ve watched this video so many times the last few months and have been dying to do this climb. Finally did it with my son last night for sunset and it was awesome. Thanks for the great videos, I’ve watched Route 66 a million times also but the long approach has kept me on climbs closer to my truck (bad knee)
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 4 ай бұрын
Thanks for the good word @WheelinMatt. I'm stoked you and your son got to experience a sunset summit together on Reggie Dome. The Chief is a good climb! Glad you like the videos as much as I love making them. Route 66 is a good one as well. But, it is a little more of a trek. If you have a specific grade range and/or style you guys are targeting, let me know and I can possibly suggest something. A similar climb that comes to mind is "Yosemite Sam" on the Super Heroes Wall. Easy approach, moderate grade, great rock.
@vlaaady
@vlaaady 8 ай бұрын
I remember it was sketchy to start. I hope the nut was not your first protection since it can be pulled sideways (not only down).
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 8 ай бұрын
I do place a gear nest - 1 nut and 1 cam for my first piece. Bomber enough for me!
@EvanWisheropp
@EvanWisheropp 8 ай бұрын
Love that rock at the end. My wife collects dick rocks
@JB-rt4mx
@JB-rt4mx 11 ай бұрын
Ù Maðe it hàrder than it is....
@grumpygardner3059
@grumpygardner3059 7 ай бұрын
That's weak. They're probably just learning to lead cracks and place gear. Everyone starts somewhere, cut'em some slack.
@aaronwinnenberg6843
@aaronwinnenberg6843 Жыл бұрын
Wondering why your belayer hung out at the bottom of the 3. Seems like it would have introduced enough slack in the line for you to take a grounder regardless of piece placement along the route.
@Alex_Coolen
@Alex_Coolen Жыл бұрын
Sweet video
@mls01981
@mls01981 Жыл бұрын
It's stressful when you place so many hand sized pieces in the first half of the climb and look up and see so much hand sized crack above! I was wondering at 3:43 -- there is a smaller horizontal crack to the left of the main crack -- was there a spot to accept a smaller cam? It's hard to tell on the video, but I see the shadow as the horizontal crack widens at the left of the screen.
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure Жыл бұрын
@mls01981 | | splitter cracks! I don't recall that little horizontal being any good - likely flared. But, it's been awhile since I've climbed this one. I'd just go locked and loaded with several 1-4's with some smaller peices for up high. It would be pretty difficult to fall out of that crack given the jams are so money.
@007rockycam2
@007rockycam2 Жыл бұрын
How do you get your rope back after you've rappelled?
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure Жыл бұрын
There are fixed bolts with a set of steel rings that your route your rope through. After you rappel, you just pull one end of the rope and it comes right down! You can kinda see it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2K6hWaebtGjkKc
@mls01981
@mls01981 Жыл бұрын
Nice work! I keep looking at this climb but the first 20 foot section sends me packing! I hear that you can protect the first part with a #4 cam in the pod, but I don't want to learn the hard way and break a leg! Pro looks so good thereafter...
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure Жыл бұрын
@michael if you do the step across start, which I believe is the original beta, it's pretty chill. That bottom section looks burlier than it climbs. From the pod, you can casually place a couple bomber pieces before pulling into the crack. I don't think this one is any harder than the other 5.7's in the park if you have decent crack technique. What have ya been climbing?
@mls01981
@mls01981 Жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure I was in J-Tree last week and led White Lightning, Mike's Books, SW Corner of Headstone, Dance Rehearsal, and Toe Jam. I'll be back at Tahquitz when the snow melts away -- I just love it there, but JT is incredible as well. Thanks for the support -- I should climb up to the step off to suss it out. My fear is falling before the pod and breaking a leg! I would feel super confident once a ground fall was off the table! Maybe next time I'll give it a go!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure Жыл бұрын
​@@mls01981 I had a gut feeling you were going to say White Lightning! For sure, if you led White Lightning, you'll be good to go on Double Cross. I felt the start of White Lightning was more difficult than pulling into the crack on Double Cross. The climbing into the pod on Double Cross is easy - just run-out. The good thing is, once you're in the pod, you can casually place two bomber pieces with a no hands rest. Then, if you were to blow it pulling into the crack, you're luckily already 20ft up! Let me know if you end up doing it. The view from the belay is pretty awesome for a sunset session. I've only climbed a few of the moderates at Tahquitz / Suicide (Trough, Fingertip, Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn, Open Book, Sundance, Serpentine). I'm sure you've been on a few of these as well. I absolutely loved P2 of Coffin Nail. The horn of course is classic. Open Book is stellar (followed that one). I felt like Tommy Caldwell on the Sundance slab. The traverse on P2 was probably some of the most fluid climbing I've ever done. Super focused - no fall slab mindset. Good times! Here is my tick-list in case you find yourself looking for ideas in J-Tree. www.mountainproject.com/user/112058049/bob-klaasic/ticks If you have any favorites, send em' my way. I'm always looking for route inspiration!
@princenabby1
@princenabby1 Жыл бұрын
What a great video, and that looks like *such* a fun climb! You definitely seemed to encounter the Three Scary Rs of trad multi-pitch: run outs, rope drag, and route finding!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure Жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing the good vibes. All the R's for sure!
@jtf107
@jtf107 Жыл бұрын
Never let your climbing partner go - there arent many other people out there who can tolerate so many "bombskies" on one route.
@vicmadrid141
@vicmadrid141 Жыл бұрын
Over the past 40 years I've lead this route in EBs, Fires, Huecos & TC pros & the thrill never goes away 😎
@KayakingCalifornia
@KayakingCalifornia Жыл бұрын
June Lake is a fantastic place to paddle. So is Silver Lake, and Gull Lake along the June Lake Loop.
@FenrirZero81
@FenrirZero81 Жыл бұрын
Went up there and couldn’t commit to the first bolt without a stick clip good job
@xsuperbmentality
@xsuperbmentality Жыл бұрын
Nice dudes try right on it’s a 5.5 buts it’s super sweet
@christophercardella1690
@christophercardella1690 Жыл бұрын
Placement at 9:28 had great potential for some bomber passive pro instead of the tiny cam
@johnleclair663
@johnleclair663 2 жыл бұрын
Nice Video! I enjoyed it. My only comment - I am not sure I would have hung my hat on that first piece of pro. You added a longer sling to it, but no... if that was up higher in the climb - that would have scared me.
@feelinghealingfrequences7179
@feelinghealingfrequences7179 2 жыл бұрын
came for the p2 gobblers grunt and p3/p4 as u wrote in a comment on mp wish u had described it or something
@staleyexplores
@staleyexplores 2 жыл бұрын
this is an excellent trad climb for the newer trad climber imho, very cool.
@priyac956
@priyac956 2 жыл бұрын
Hey man this is sick! Thanks so much for sharing your experience with the people! Happy climbing!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the good vibes Priya! 🤙
@Ishshahh
@Ishshahh 2 жыл бұрын
Hi! Where did you rent the kayaks?
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
The June Lake Marina. 🛶🤙
@T3PinR
@T3PinR 2 жыл бұрын
Nice video - I love seeing moderate climbs being filmed. There's only so much of stuff that's impossible to most of us. That was a nice climb.
@joseb5448
@joseb5448 2 жыл бұрын
Great job guys. Its taking me back to when I was climbing every weekend back in 1994. Spent so many days out at JT. Beautiful place. Doing a lot of the same routes. As I watch your movements, I am reminded of my same thoughts. How comfortable I used feel in the crack, and the runout on the easier slab would get me to thinking. 👍
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Hey Jose. Thanks for the good word! JTree is such a special place. So many good times there for me as well. Wonderland is full of magic. Any super memorable outings, routes, or areas that you think back to specifically?
@joseb5448
@joseb5448 2 жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure Some of my fav routes were Touch and go,Double Cross,Sail Away, Double dogleg,ZZZZ,Walk on the wild side.. Spent many overnighters there. I recalled once was we were woken up by snowing. I mainly climbed out there with an occasional mtn bike ride out to nowhere. Even had a spiritual experience once. Winters where just amazing.
@dwainwarren2952
@dwainwarren2952 2 жыл бұрын
One of my favorite routes at Lovers!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
It's a great route. I love the traverses!
@dwainwarren2952
@dwainwarren2952 2 жыл бұрын
It's really fun doing that route with just nuts and hexes!
@dwainwarren2952
@dwainwarren2952 2 жыл бұрын
A #9 hex would have worked better than that gold cam.
@PatrickBeeson
@PatrickBeeson 2 жыл бұрын
Belayer could use an anchor on that ledge.
@PatrickBeeson
@PatrickBeeson 2 жыл бұрын
Consider a multidirectional first piece as opposed to a nut to prevent a zipper if you fell or took.
@chapeaux110
@chapeaux110 Жыл бұрын
came here to say the same thing. felt relieved when he pulled out that z4
@bboudreau5
@bboudreau5 2 жыл бұрын
Sick climb! I’m really interested in how you rigged up that anchor at the end. 1 - you extended the anchor with the rope? 2- how were you safely getting to the ledge? 3 - how did you tie the new master point? Thanks man!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Patrick! The anchor is a standard 3 piece pre-equalized anchor. However, instead of belaying directly off the master point, you clip a munter hitch into the master point and essentially "lower yourself" to the edge. You can do this all while staying on-belay if needed. When you get to edge, you tie a BHK which becomes your new master point and fixed safety tether. I learned this technique from a certified PCGI guide. It comes in handy when you have to utilize anchor opportunities that aren't within direct sight of your climber. Climbing magazine also has an article that talks about this very technique. (See link below under heading: "Extended Master Point") Link: www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-belay-extensions/
@MrDavid997
@MrDavid997 2 жыл бұрын
Those Black Diamond crack gloves are freaking awesome. It’s almost like cheating. Doesn’t look like you needed them, you jamming technique looks solid.
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
I haven't tried the BD gloves yet. I do have some Ocun's that I use on sandstone or "grittier" cracks. (I generally only tape up in Indian Creek). Gloves are just more convenient. So, I'll have to give those BD ones a try. Thanks for the good word!
@jamescampbell2521
@jamescampbell2521 2 жыл бұрын
Belayer should have the camera.
@jon4739
@jon4739 2 жыл бұрын
5:45.....Thank you!! Was starting to get ants in my pants and then you dropped that cam in the crack and.......Relief LOL!! Great video and awesome climbing! And that run out at the top.... Great job!!! Really enjoyed the video :)
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
@Jon, yeah, I pushed that runout (5:45) a bit more than I probably needed. I was just trying to reduce the potential of rope drag. But, in that upper section (20:50 | 28:33) there is no avoiding it. Easy climbing, (5.4) up beautiful dikes...but by far the longest runout(s) I've ever done. Easily had 40-50 feet of rope out. Just glad the climbing was cruiser. Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks again for sharing your stoke!
@mstott22lax
@mstott22lax 2 жыл бұрын
Would love to climb this
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
It's a good one! 🤙
@addsy6396
@addsy6396 2 жыл бұрын
Nice climbing. I would have been happier with a couple of number 3 and 4s…
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, 3" cams are useful on this one. When I filmed this, I didn't bring anything bigger than #2. But, having 3" cams makes it much safer. Personally, I don't think there are many places for a 4" cam. The crack is mostly 1-3" and the upper chimney has small placements. But, it never hurts to bring extra pro just in case! Thanks for the comment!
@dariocarafa3788
@dariocarafa3788 2 жыл бұрын
How come you keep burping out the word "you" ? Is it some climbing term I've never heard or is it like an inside joke? Cool climbing it looks like something I'd love to do
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Hey Dario! "Yew" is a term I picked up from surfing and is commonly used in action sports. Generally speaking, it's an audible representation of being "stoked"...which, happens to me a lot. So, I'm always saying it! "Yew!"
@mls01981
@mls01981 Жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure That's so funny. I say/hear "Yew" all the time and I surf and climb... for the life of me I have no idea when it came into being!
@Bennysnamehere
@Bennysnamehere 2 жыл бұрын
do they allow outboard motors or just non motorized? I have an inflatable with an outboard, just curious Thanks
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Hey Doc! The marina rents aluminum boats that have 4 stroke outboard motors. So, I assume it's A-Okay. But, a call to the June Lake Marina just to make sure might be your best bet.
@catsaur
@catsaur 2 жыл бұрын
This looks beyond cool. As a typical indoor plastic puller, would you suggest taking classes on trad, anchor building, etc.. for someone that doesn’t know anyone that could teach me. I live in Cali and feel like I’m missing out on all this goodness. 😅 any advice is greatly appreciated!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Hey @Catsaur! There are a lot of different ways to approach entry into trad climbing. However, I am a strong advocate in finding a certified outdoor guide who can teach you the skills necessary to feel confident. The easiest way to do this is to find an outdoor area you'd like to climb at. Then, research the local guiding companies that guide in that area. If you spend a day with the guide, you will not only get to climb some cool stuff, but you'll learn some valuable skills and get a better understanding of the process. All-in-all, the topics that are most important to the safety of trad climbing are anchor building, anchor cleaning, leading, and self-rescue. Personally, I decided to get guided instruction for each topic. It was worth its weight in gold because it gave me confidence. Trad climbing can be mentally demanding at times. But, if you trust your knowledge, gear, and systems; you will likely have more fun. Learning this stuff isn't hard. It's actually super fun to spend a day with a guide. What part of California are you based out of? Maybe I can recommend an area and/or guide service? Also, here are a couple Instagram channels that I really enjoy. (@thecodybradford, @daleremsberg)
@catsaur
@catsaur 2 жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure I'm based in the south bay area Norcal. The two locations that come to mind are Tahoe and Yosemite. We also have guides at Castle Rock State Park and in the Berkeley Hills, so I've got some options given how popular climbing is here. I totally agree with your sentiments, I think I'll feel a lot safer having comprehensive classes on everything.
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
​@@catsaur Awesome! Yeah, you've got some great options. Actually, when I was climbing in Lover's Leap (when I filmed this), I met Petch from Lover's Leap Guides. We were both toping out on our routes at the same time. The guy is super mellow and I had some good conversations with him. If you find yourself wanting to climb Lover's Leap or anywhere on Highway 50, I would not hesitate to give them a call. The local climbing community up in Strawberry is super inviting and vibrant! Plus, that rock, is so dang good!
@catsaur
@catsaur 2 жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure Cool cool! I assume they offer guiding up routes as well as specific training for self-sufficient climbing? I will certainly look into them. My outdoor itch is real..
@jon4739
@jon4739 3 жыл бұрын
Not sure how I ended up on your video but glad I did. Old school climber from the 80s doing trad and bolting in the deep south sandstone caves and overhanging lines. I really enjoyed seeing you place your gear in real time figuring out the sizes and best positions. I have come full circle as a dad of two girls who are learning to climb. I am really loving moving across the stone in the 5.5-5.8 grade with my young ones. I am over the 5.12 runout trad routes I did in my youth. This was just a refreshing climbing video with honesty and happiness.... Rock on! Just got another Sub :)
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Hey Jon! Thanks for the good word. I appreciate the stoke! Climbing is something that I am passionate about, but also something that I don't take too serious. I think it is easy to get caught chasing grades and ratings. However, climbing for the love of climbing...now that's a magical thing! I can for sure relate to your love of movement. It's super awesome you share that with your daughters. That's what it's all about! Super stoked!
@jordans92169
@jordans92169 3 жыл бұрын
Great video! I just branched into trad this year and I had a lot of fun guessing what size placement you were about to make.
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the good word! Where are you climbing predominantly?
@ananda_miaoyin
@ananda_miaoyin 3 жыл бұрын
BADASS handjam, bro!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Peanut butter and hand JAM sandwich! Yew!
@sullycrashers
@sullycrashers 3 жыл бұрын
Was just on super roof last week! Josh season is back!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Good little route! Rope eater tho! 🤙🤙
@bonefishboards
@bonefishboards 3 жыл бұрын
Well done.
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын
Medium rare, pink through out. :P
@frankwilliams5766
@frankwilliams5766 3 жыл бұрын
Just stumbled across your videos by chance. Starting to get into trad and seeing what to expect on these "easy" grades is super helpful. Keep it up!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the good word @frank! I appreciate it. Welcome to the world of adventure climbing. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
@frankwilliams5766
@frankwilliams5766 3 жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure Actually--I just thought of a question! I just lead my first multi-pitch trad yesterday. 5.6/5.7, but it had bolted anchors which made it so much more approachable from the mental side of things. Any suggested trad climbs in California that have bolted anchors? I don't think that is a filter option on MP.
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Honestly, all areas can be hit-or-miss when it comes to bolted belay anchors. I can name a few off the top of my head in Joshua Tree. However, a LOT of the time you'll have to build your own anchor on trad routes. It's just the style and ethic of trad climbing vs. sport climbing. Personally, I would recommend getting some instruction. When I started, I hired a guide in Joshua Tree and spent an entire day just working on anchor building. But, after that day, I was throwing together bomber anchors and top-roping trad routes pretty easily. My guide gave me the knowledge and confidence I needed to feel comfortable.. Also, the Falcon Guide "Climbing Anchors" book by Bob Gaines and John Long is stellar. It's a good additional resource to have. To the original question...you could check out Alabama Hills, Holcomb Valley, or even Red Rock Canyon NV. These are all mixed areas where bolted belays are generally more common. Also, slab routes generally always have a bolted belay given the nature of the rock.
@Jordan__Sloan
@Jordan__Sloan 3 жыл бұрын
Place is hard, took the biggest whip of my life on steppenwolf
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Dude, on Steppenwolf moving out of that upper crack towards the arete...that was a very precarious section. If that was where you whipped...like Wowsers Scoob!
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 3 жыл бұрын
We were out there a couple weeks ago... Looked so heady going for 3rd bolt. Did Cryptic instead lol
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
I've done Cryptic on follow and Southwest Corner on lead. I thought Cryptic was the harder and headier pitch. But, psychologically traversing out over space will always give you a bit of buzz! There is a nice boulder pinch to thread at the base for the belayer. Always a good measure in case the leader takes a dive off the deep end!
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 3 жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure yeah, I drug a BD 4 cam up there for a belay anchor. I didn't fancy being yanked off that ledge lol
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
@@LouDude502 you know the trick! 🤙
@bix12593
@bix12593 3 жыл бұрын
STEMSKI!!!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Stemski broski!!!
@drclimbmx
@drclimbmx 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks to Share!
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
🤙🤙
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 3 жыл бұрын
I might have to do this again, or for the first time. I think I climbed the wrong crack lol. Thanks for sharing
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
Haha. That will happen. Sometimes locating a route is like finding a needle in a haystack!
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 3 жыл бұрын
@@KlaasicAdventure and half the adventure IMO🤙
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
@@LouDude502 true that! 🤙
@courtclimbs
@courtclimbs 3 жыл бұрын
🤘🤘🤘
@KlaasicAdventure
@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын
🤙🤙🤙