Great tips!!

Brad, Did you do any light sanding on the color coat before you went to the clearcoats.

Will it age like nitro?

dark to light is the way in other forms of painting so makes sense to do the burst that way

Warmouth out of Washington is quite reputable and expensive. I bought a body from them and I had neck on hand from a Squire Strat. I subsequently changed my mind and ordered a new neck. The old yellowed maple neck didn't look good with the new body. When I got the new neck, either the neck pocket was too small or the neck was too big. I had to send the body back to widen the neck pocket after arguments and back and forth on the phone and email. I then had to use a luthier to finish the neck and get it lined up properly costing more money. It wasn't perfect when it was returned to me. I didn't have the tools to work on the neck myself.

didn't mention Warmoth

What about pango guitar kits?

Great video thanks

Hi Brad, I realize this video was done quite some time ago now, but I was wondering if you had previously raised the grain on this alder body before sanding with 320? I have a similar alder body that I plan to stain with a water-based stain and wasn't sure if I needed to do this before applying the stain. Thanks for all the great content!

Brad I'm am going to paint my guitar with 2k clear coat how long should I wait before I start flat sanding the surface?

That looks pretty good. 8:04 More like, "good work Brad for thinking ahead and laying out paper"

My brother and I used boiled linseed oil in his music store in the EARLY '70s. We applied it to guitar fingerboards. I probably rubbed it in as much with my fingers as using a paper towel. It worked great. Never had a single problem with it and am seriously considering going back to linseed because I have not found a fingerboard oil yet that twangs my strings. They all brag ... but no body darkens or strengthens rosewood or ebony like linseed. And boy ... is it cheaper.

Hi Brad, loving the content. Can I use this oil-based Minwax wipe-on method over solvent based car paint or is it only suitable for wood finishes? I want to avoid the hazards of 2k spray if possible. How long should I wait for the base colour to harden? I’ve read potentially 3-4 weeks to allow it to fully harden.

My brother and I used boiled linseed oil on guitar boards in his Tallahassee music store, back in the EARLY '70s. Worked quite well and we never had any problems with it. I generally just use Four ZERO steel wood to clean frets and board at the same time (masking tape over the pickups). Wipe it off well. Apply oil.

Rustoleum back-of-can instructions suggest a couple of medium coats from 12" away. That will result in NO discernible hammer effect - just a matte silver look. They ought to have said a heavy coat from 8" away - but so many people would have trouble applying that with no runs that the manufacturer has probably figured, supplying instructions for the wrong finish effect was the lesser evil. I've a feeling this is one type finish that is actually better rolled on from a can, because a sprayable formulation will necessarily have to be thinner which doesn't lend itself to this effect.

Does this work on a plywood body? 86 Squier stratocaster/TELECASTER contemporary bullet 1

Thanks Brad, that's a fantastic technique. I really appreciate it. My binding is a slightly lower than the body, therefore I foresee scraping more paint possibly, but I feel I can clean it up with slight sanding on the imperfections before clear coating.

How long between the final coat of clear and when you sand?

This is really professional.

What are the ingredients in odie's oil

Yay rust oleum Yaaaay!

Fuggin brilliant brother man. Nuff Said

Hey Brad!!! love watching this come together i know it's many years later but this got me to try my hand at this kit! I had a question for you which is do i need to do any grain filling? the specific kit i ordered is Basswood and i see a lot of things online saying with Basswood its not necessary because its not a wide open pored is this accurate?

Oxford recommended 3 cans of clear. My Satin went on like orange peel. Now I'm being told level sand and polish.

You must have read my mind

Do you use wood stain? Or is it only linseed oil you think that combusts when left on a crumpled rag? Wood stain has a higher combustion rate than linseed oil. There are a lot of combustible materials/products out there so unless you list them all Please stay in your lane. A little knowledge is a bad thing.

Thanks for showing! How much would you sand a catalyzed matt clear top?

Hi. What tape did you use to mark the side binding?

Very informative video

I'm years late in this but one question. if you didn't pop the catalyst in the 2k does that mean it acts like 1k if you spray it?

I always have trouble getting a straight edge on my lines. Any tips on preventing bleeding?

Whats up with the camera brad? after rewatching your old vids then this this one is blurry? I hope i'm not sounding like an ass, but it's just an observation. In other news your videos on precision guitars is leading me in a dangerous way and I might spend money... hahaha

Hey man for the first black paint can I use those spray can to paint the base?

Since I cannot find Behlens (sp), is there another brand of buffers polish available in the USA that would work? Thanks

It will wear off and go grey. Eventually white when it wears totally off. Lay off the drugs 😂. Surly a rosewood neck with black stain would have been the wiser option. As the substrate is naturally dark

Perhaps I’m missing something. Can you please help me to understand why you didn’t scrape the binding (to level it with the top) ‘before’ you stained/sprayed the top color(s)? Or is this scraping simply called, ‘finish scraping’ the paint/stain off the binding? Thank you for this great tip!

I Buy Epiphones, then kit them up to the slandered of a Gibson counterpart. Its like i guess a high end guitar kit.

This is… bad

Oxford is way too expensive, especially after shipping, $80 a quart for clear, $27 for a single dye color.after shipping its ridiculous.

Great info Can thus product be used on stainless running boards?

I would have been interesting to see you flex that board, just a little bit, to see if the the coating cracked or delaminated at all. -Still, I'm very impressed.

Ive got an old house that has some sort of dark “mud” on all the trim. Its a semi-transparent finish over stained oak. Could be a pigmented lacquer? Polyshades seems to be the only thing that ive found to get close to this appearance. Love to hear if there is something you’d recommend.

This is an unusually good video.

I didn't click to listen your abracadabra. You make yourself real donkey. After 30 seconds I turned off the computer.

Are their touch up pens any good?

How much sanding should be done at the very early stage of applying grain filler?

Is your stand a actual product or something fabricated?

What color did he use?

Explain sand and polish after clear coat please. I’m new at this so what grain sand paper and what do you mean by polish?

You let it cure for 1 week before the clear coat?