My boot switch has gone. It still unlocks from the key and I don't open the boot that often, so I have left it as is. Makes it more secure as someone walking past if I am parked and sat in the car or stopped in traffic cannot open the boot.

If you have the kind of switch that has wires that plug into it, could you just prize the old switch out (without doing the dismantling you describe), disconnect it from the wires, and just plug the new switch into the old cables?

Very helpful video. Thank you !!

Brilliant video there thanks for sharing that information very well explained I have a ford kuga diesel 20lt tdci but I changed the fuel filter and and now its full off air in that green pipe 😊

Why isn’t this easier to access ? It’s supposed to be a service item????

mk1 owner here take bottom screw from cover of pollen filter so much easier than when gem panel has been lowered

If you have a Ford S Max check the nearside wiring going down the boot into the car in that black sleeve on the top... mine was cut from opening and closing over time

I don't know if this is correct to do.... I normally take out the old cabin filter. Put the cover back on to seal it with no filter. Then do the car sanitiser with no filter in... once finished sanitising re open then put new filter in.... in my head with no filter in the sinister would flow and work better.... I'm I wrong doing it this way.

Good video thanks for sharing that information 👍 is that the same thing on ford focus mk3 titanium x diesel

Couldn't be more clearly explained.

I have replace part like you said bit my wife still says their is no difference. I used a rubber mallet to knock it in place but still getting a thumping noise. Any ides on what else to check?

Thank you your video give me the information and confidence to replace the headlight bulb successfully in my wife's car.

It’s the same mount for Focus 2004 1.6 tdci 109hp with 5 speed manual transmision?

Cheers dude, needed the last part of ya video regarding the bleeding method..... Bought a bulb pump / primer an all is good 👍 ya video helped save my 2010 galaxy. 👍👍🍻

Ok my pump came today, head torch on after work, it's going again, thank you so much.✨️

still had no licence plate when i seen it irl when visiting

Lol, I used the brake cleaner to bleed my 1.8tdci focus after th bleeding pipe let air in. Hopefully I can do this soon, I have a 27mm filter housing socket, not this specific slotted one.

Super video, thanks. Wasn’t aware that they weren’t self priming, saved me a lot of time!

já tedy nevím, ale měnil jsem třikrát otvírání kufru u C-Maxe u Fiesty a nikdy jsem nesundával obložení ani zadní lištu, prostě jsem vycvaknul vypínač vzadu, odpojil kabel od spínače a napojil a zacvaknul nový. Netuším proč bych rozebíral celé dveře, šrouby a já nevím co ješt když to není nutné pokud odejde spínač. zbytečná práce.

a lot more easy when u try from driver side . 4 screw of acceleration padel and then all done in 10 minutes.

So I have bled mine and it seems to start and run fine. Took it on a 3 hour drive and turned it off after and starts fine again. Then went inside for a while came back out this start and won’t fire up and seems that it needs to be bled again. Any ideas where and what to look at? TIA

should we put air in or out?? Pls

Good job. Good video! Thanks 🙏

Good work sir 😊

Got some quite excessive (I think) engine vibration at the moment in C Max 1.6 TDCI, the front right mount was knackered and I replaced that when doing timing belt. However the vibration persists. You think the other mounts could also be knackered?

This is my uncles Channel

Very well explained, thanks!

Cheers mate, just done mine. It had an aftermarket cable on that was seized up (because they are crap) and it had metal parts all over it like the retainer barbs and the collar that passes through the caliper and, yes you guessed it, it seizes up. The metal retaining barbs are a nightmare to release unless you have a Dremel. You can just get in with a cutting disc and cut the little buggers off. And then I found all the rust underneath so I'm currently sorting that out before I put the cables back in. The joys of motoring!

On my Ford Galaxy DW10 the original belt is FoMoCo 6PK 1206. The Gates belt have different tracks, they do not fit into the rollers

Welp i got some i guess ac pipes infront soo i guess i cannot do much here.

I’ve just done my mk 1 2007 c max, what a nightmare to get the filter in, wires in the way, I’ve pretty much trashed the filter getting it in and bruised my ribs in the process, who designed this car? So anything I’ve done on this car is a pain in the a#s* to access, spark plugs, cabin filter, battery, and a favourite of mine the screen wash bottle inside the front os wing. Ford designers 👎

Ah the joy of fixing modern cars, dismantle everything first to replace simple and wearing parts.

Podrías hacer un vídeo y decir dónde se pone el gato para cambiar uva rueda en ese coche? No sé dónde ponerlo. Te lo agradecería mucho

Very helpful video thank you. I have to change the switch on mt daughter's cmax as it has the symptoms that you described.

Cheers for that. I shall give it a pop

That's helpful my 2008 cmax has got loads of little faults this being one of them.

After watching that, i would disconnect the battery and remove the green block connector. for an oldish person, that would be a nightmare.

I broke the white clip on 3:04 Where can I find a replacement for it?

I didnt spot the tabs at the bottom when i tried taking it off earlier.Thanks for the video

Question : is it enough sealing between filter insert and cover ( small plastic pipe ) ? I mean there are no any sealing rings between. Little strange design

Whoever design the filter placing needs to be sacked

Thanks for your brilliant video. 58 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus. Tensioner nut was 19mm on mine so just needed two 19mm combination spanners (or a 19 and 20 etc) for the extra leverage. Took less than 30 minutes on the roadside using standard jack and hand tools - trolley jack and air/electric ratchet would speed things up. Mine only had Alternator, A/C, Crank and the tensioner/idler pulleys. Found it easiest to get belt on Alt, A/C and partially on Crank pulley then push back idler with the 'extended' spanners and finally flip on crank pulley, properly as more 'space' - didn't need to use 5mm pin to hold 'back' tension. As shown in video you are turning spanner anti-clockwise as if to undo bolt but due to cam action (and very tight bolt) idler pulley pushes back to release tension on belt.

I have the same issue 2011 c-max plus the boot opens randomly on its own while driving or stationary. I’m hoping this will be a quick fix. Thankyou pal

Helpful mention of forscan - I have ordered one off Amazon for diagnosis now after buying a replacement latch and UCU which did not fix my issue. Wish I had invested in diagnostics first as it would probably saved money and time.

Helpful for me with a mondeo mk3 2004 tailgate latch problem too. although my stitch is working I think. does the tailgate not have a mechanical key tucked up near the switch for emergency use like my Mondeo? I didn't know it was there as I never needed it until the latch failed electrically. Worth a look if you are sctarching your head on how to get in the boot.

I couldn't remove mine, can't swing the engine forward enough to free the torque mount. Please help

Yes I liked the video because It was for my C Max 2008 very helpful ! Thank you and keep up the Good work.

Thanks

Great video. Does the cmax mark 2 just pop out or do you still need to remove trim

I found this video really helpful, thank you