Torque converter

Did you ever figure it out?

Replaced FCA, liftpump, exhaust pressure sensor, fuel rail pressure relief valve(no race plugs for me), cleaned MAP and MAF and still have this issue. Issue has been driving me crazy. I still need to check for exhaust leaks as some have mentioned as a fix for them and will inspect the wiring to the exhaust pressure sensor again but not holdling my breath. With ezlink also checked all transmissions line pressures and torque convertor and everything is in spec. Some mentioned a locking up TC would cause this but I dont think so for me. I keep focusing on the fuel system as my injection pressure commanded vs actual bounces a bit and kind of in line with the lope. However at high throttle and past idle truck has plenty of power. Seeing 25k plus rail pressure. Considering the rail tuning option as some have mentioned as well...good luck all and let you all know if i figure mine out Also no codes for me the ENTIRE time

Had this same issue with my 2015 ram 3500 6.7 with 175k miles. I cleaned the MAF and MAP sensors and cleared it up. It would lope at an idle and sound worse when in gear but never died and would shake like crazy when overdrive kicked in but would stop soon as I left off the throttle or accelerate very fast. But cleaning those sensors cleared it up hopefully this helps y’all out. I also sprayed the connectors with electrical cleaner as well.

Hey man did you ever figure out what the problem was?. Mine is a 2015.

Mine is the same truck year and trim level and it started doing the same thing!

I have the same issues what should I replace I bought the fca sensor I think that’s the problem

I had to drill my own holes in that nut 😂

What is your rail pressure? I would first suspect the FCA

What is your gate spring doesn’t have those holes?

Ive had same issue changed all inje tors adjust valves still the same . One think i find out that adding sea fom for every fill up truck runs with no issue at all

My 3rd gen did this and my headlights flickered too. I cleaned battery grounds and terminals. 2nd battery negative terminal goes right to the block. Clean that and grid heater relay

Mine started that same shit today when I got to work

I had this issue for over 1 year. Sounded like I had a cam job. Did the EXACT same stuff as described in video. We thought it was the tune, turbo actuator, fca, etc etc etc. The problem was a bad connection to a sensor that controlled the exhaust brake. When the truck’s Egr was removed a bolt should have been placed on the bracket that held the sensor. Without the bolt in place the sensor was bouncing back and forth which pulverized the copper wires inside the insulation. The wires appeared intact. They looked fine. We replaced the wires and booom. The truck runs perfectly now. A couple of wires to the exhaust brake sensor were the cause.

Mine was doing the same thing, my issue was the wiring harness going the the turbo back pressure switch. I wrapped the wire harness with a fuel line to support the harness going into the plug. Working fine now, but plan on rewiring with a heavy gauge wire.

Mine was doing the same. 2017 6.7l I found an exhaust leak from the front block off plate. Easy fix. A simple way to check is to take a vacuum hose, put it up to your ear, and chase around your exhaust connection points. If you have even the slightest of leaks you'll hear it.

A ”loop” 😂😂 fucking idiot

Did get it fix?

The rod works fine… Rod left the chat

I’m having the same problem 2013 ram 2500 113,000 miles non deleted RPM’s go from 900 to 500 and my truck sounds deep and throaty any suggestions? And it only does it in gear it stops doing it when it goes in park

I have the same issue.

Alright I know this is an old video but I've been chasing this similar issue on my 2014 ram 2500 6.7 60k original miles and it's just a daily driver. I've watched every video possible and read every forum. This is my experience and solution. Same issues but my truck would "lope" and then stall when coming to a stop. At first it was just the lope but then it started to stall. My first and only code was U010c (lost communication with turbo). I replaced everything I could possible at home. The first thing I replaced was the turbo actuator with a City Diesel turbo actuator. Code went away but still the same symptoms. Then I replaced: FCA, camshaft sensor, cleaned the egr valve, cleaned sensors, dropped the fuel tank & replaced the lift pump with a OEM pump. Still no check engine light this whole time. I finally took it to a shop and let them look at it. It got misdiagnosed they said it was a fuel issue and then stated it was my torque converter locking up and quoted me 10k for a new transmission. I took it to a transmission shop and that wasn't the case. What was happening was my PCM was still not communicating well with new turbo actuator. (City Diesel actuator does not need to be calibrated like the oem ones). So the mechanic at the trans shop reflashed my pcm and drove the crap out of the truck. A lot of stop and go, pulling over and turning the truck off and on and driving again. Eventually the truck recognized and relearned the new turbo actuator and its all fixed. One of the biggest headaches I've ever had with a vehicle but with that said there are a lot of other issue that can cause these symptoms. I hope this helps or at least gives someone something to look into.

I have changed both fuel filters, and cleaned MAF sensor, and changed fuel control actuator. None of these fixed the problem still having same Problem

I changed my fuel control actuator and it did not fix the problem. Everybody on here saying that it's a fuel control actuator problem it is not that.

I have a 14 and the tach is doing the same thing but seems to run smoothly. Anyone have any ideas, mass air flow sensor......?

I have the same issue on my 2014 3500...once I cross the 168 temp mark it goes away. Does when cold only.

I have 2012 with 225,000 miles just started to do same exact thing. Did you ever figure this out? I would really appreciate it.

My 2016 was doing the exact same thing I took the pressure sensor off of the back side of the intake horn it was coded with carbon and suet the MAF cleaner wouldn’t clean it had to use non chlorinated brake cleaner to get it off and also cleaned the electric connections knock on wood it hasn’t done it again in the last three weeks hope this helps

Hi, I have outside metal gate 7ft by 6ft, can you please advise me which self closing product is suitable any havey duty tension springs? Please let me know. Thank you for your help, wait to hear from you

I have a 2016 ram 3500 6.7 same exact problem

Hey, is this still happening? I have a 2021 with 12k on it doing the same thing! I’m tuned and it only happens in gear at a stop….and only randomly.

I drive 2016 with 150 k and I have exactly the same issue the dealership told me that a computer need to be updated, they did it and a is the same, they also replaced the fuel pressure sensor and no improvement. This issue comes and goes and just for a few hours and then is fine for a day or two. I hope somebody is able to find the cause and share a solution with everyone. Thanks

Did u figure this problem out I am having the same issue thought it was bad fuel checked it Fuel was good changed fuel filters they are good next thought is injectors clogging up

Hi, having this issue from a while (some times) too with a warmed up engine (2013+ RAM 2500 SLT 6.7 with 32k miles)) no idea what the problem can be

My truck used to do this. I replace the battery terminals and the batteries solve my problem sorry I’m late on your post lol

Did you find the source of the problem?

Change fuel pump in tank. Had same issue changed fuel pump and loose is gone so far.

My truck just started doing this 2017 with 37k. Did you figure out what was causing this? non deleted

Check you’re fuel pressure on you’re cp3

I have the same problem on my ram 3500 tradesman 2018 srw. I put power service diesel clean and it fixed the problem but as soon as I stop putting the additives the problem comes back. I’ve been having that issue since it had 12 000 miles, now I’m at 35 000. I don’t think is an emissions problem it looks like bad injections, I guess. Any update?

Did you ever figure this out?

Anyone figure this out? If I turn on the exhaust brake when warning up it's worse.

Mine does it also….have no solution to fix it yet……seems to not lope when I plug the block heater in overnight.

08 2500 6.7 just started this but i dies can't hardly get it to untracked ( what is max)

Or a clogged EGR can cause this

Fuel pressure regulator will cause that. This should have the cp4 pump or maybe cp3. This is the same pump that's in the chevy duramax and same style regulator. If you hook a computer to it you will be able to watch the fuel pressure go up and down in unison to the tach.

My completely stock 2017 6.7 68rfe just started doing this at 42k miles. Changed fuel filters, no change. Can’t figure it out. Still under warranty, so I guess I’ll take it to the stealership and see what they say. Anybody definitively figured this out? Can’t be a poor tune, as mine is completely stock.

My MAF sensor is always on. Checked for manifold leak, replaced my inner cooler because of a dent. Now I'm getting the lope from a cold start

There is a sensor that plugs into your exhaust manifold. Play around with the connector. Mine was having same issue and it was that connection to the sensor got a little loose prob from the vibrations. Also replacing that whole exhaust manifold back pressure sensor should help too. It’s either that or your fuel control actuator.

Noooice!