VERY GOOD VIDEO

😮.

🤍

Excelente,felicitaciones,gracias

Amazing, I love your work

Do you get the mice from Bagpuss to do the work?

Which products did you use for the different coats after removing all the Rust?

4500 kgs? Eye opening.

What kind of person would use the incorrect plural for octopus? Really now. It's octopuses or octopodes, never octopi. We have to have some standards, lest we slide headlong into chaos. 😉

I can completely understand *wanting* to look after carbs....but personally I want the car to start when I want to drive it. I never regretted getting my classic minis engine rebuilt when i had the chance, your putting a lot of faith in old parts if you don't...thats if the end float is manageable without it

If it were me, I would have considered neatening up and reinforcing the edges of that access hole and then laying up a bolt-in panel to plug it. Someone needed access to the transmission at some point, and it's a fair bet you will too, one day. Best of luck.

Sir, that is clearly a letter sized hole.

I'm so happy "we" are at the body work stage. There is, mentally speaking, a big mile stone in that. This is where the finish line is visible. This is where it's time to pretty everything up for a result worthy of all the insane amount of "grunt work" that has already been laid down to get here in the first place.

😅😅😅😅😅😅😅

Mate............Love channel but to much fluff!

getting Dexter vibes at 13:21.

Pls don’t paint it green. White with some sparkle.

Good to see those tungsten bits still coming in handy.

might help to bolt some counterweights on the ends of the long arms of your flipper thing. A few old barbell weights from a boot sale to the tune of 20 or 30 kg per arm could work. But what do I know, never tried anything of this sort before.

Nice job there, George. (Memories of the VW Combie incident. I see you didn't go for the roll over & squish against the wall option this time!) That hole was horrible. The _worst_ thing you can do is cut a hole with _corners_ in a panel. If you absolutely must cut an access hole, at least use a hole saw to leave them rounded to prevent stress concentrators!

You closed the square opening completely, but there should be a round service opening there to access the fill opening in the gearbox. A large rubber plug closes the service opening in the body.

This is the most beautiful vehicle restoration I have ever seen in my life, well done man

As usual - incredible content. Tell me how exactly did you "clean" the underside of the car? your video shows "before" and "after" - but not "how"

is your name Campbell?

Not exactly Mad for Motors but equally enjoyable. Youd better raffle this yoke!!❤❤❤

I am enjoying watching. While I certainly understand putting it back to ‘stock’ - I may have fabricated a very nice removable panel for future access. I recall making an access hatch in my 74 Elite to get to heater controls.

I thought that you'd made those angle grinder gouges yourself during the clean up. So glad you didn't!

Prosthetic Pink needs to be a RAL colour

Appreciate your content on showing us Lotus made Esprit body in details and honest condition. Got me thinking if anyone out there ever swap a total new body produced using the latest material available today?

Masterful work! Even the original forged Fuchs rims from Meinerzhagen/Germany are still in good condition.

keep going, keep going, keep going... there is a little pinhole of light, in the tunnel now, and if you turn round, the darkness is pushing you on...

As a former boatbuilder - Your resin will probably cure correctly (or re-cure as in "temper" if it didn't in the first go) with a good punctual heat-source like a fan-heater. Card-board box over it will rise temps even further. The repair will be adhering best to the scarf edge when starting with the _smallest_ patch You ripped out - this way, with slowly increasing sizes, each single patch will have at least some strands adhering to the original body. Using epoxy and actual weave instead of poly-snot and undirected short-strand mats might be not as original, but it does increase repair quality exponentially, even more so when vacuum is applied because voids otherwise unreachable will at least have resin in them afterwards - especially in places where the shell was sloppily built and weakly laid out in the first place. Thanks for sharing!

George On the handbrake mount; have you thought of cutting out the inside. Place in a bit of G10 over the hole from inside and then covering over the G10 the edge scarf with some GF? Would that not be covered by trim, epically strong and relatively easy?

Another great episode in the ongoing saga of the dark recesses of the Lotus rebuild… always a pleasure. Thank you for sharing.

If the previous owner had had to cut out the floor to access the transmission, was there any thought given to putting in an access hatch, rather than just filling the hole?

Did you consider to put a maintenance hatch in that place? I mean, the hole was already there.

I saw a 1978 Esprit in amazing looking condition in Brisbane Australia yesterday and found your great videos. Thanks for making them, informative, well made and entertaining 👍🏼

Seeing her on her side showed off how beautiful she is. 😊

That crash damage/crack looks like it was repaired by Spiderman.

I could watch this all day!! Great stuff..

Thank you for letting us peek at her undercarriage. As for Prosthesis Pink: my wife and I have a joke about a colour a pair of designers once suggested for our Living Room wall - I dubbed it Artificial Limb. Needless to say we didn’t pursue their ideas any further.

Having done a few boatbuilding projects, unless that's a vinylester resin that you're already using, I would very strongly (seriously, no bs) suggest that you switch to epoxy for the potentially more structural crash damage repairs. You shouldn't need more than a litre, so cost won't really be an issue. West system epoxy is avaliable pretty much anywhere, a boating supply place will almost certainly stock it. Vinylester is sort of in between pricewise, but much closer to epoxy bond strength. Polyester resin has a very bad habit when cured, of just separating from whatever it is stuck on top of, with very little encouragement - it might seem ok on day one, but a little bit of flex and it will pop clean off. The other thing is that polyester needs a barrier from the air for it to cure properly. Unless what you have has wax in it (this comes to the surface and provides that barrier), the topside will remain tacky. The metal plate supporting the bottom will let that side cure. There are endless boatbuilding threads and forums where you can learn about the evils of polyester resin, if you want a second opinion 😊.

Great stuff George! Very curious to see you get after those mounts and accident damage.

the music in this episode when you sort out the resin reminds me of Nujabes, I think you would like him. love seeing the body work start!

Lovely as always to watch George. Look after your 🤲 matey!

0:37 "...flip the VW Bus on..." ...me. <-- You should have said.

That foam rot at 7:30 … lucky! That’s the good kind of rot. The other kind turns into sticky tarry goo.

top notch work. inspiring to get my butt back into the shop.

❤

It was time for some shell TLC!