True...My use of dummy bearings or manufactured "cone tool" simulated bearings are for initial fit-up only. Setting final bearing preloads is always done with new bearings in place. Final ring-and-pinion tooth contact patterns are always done with new bearings. My use of "good used" bearings for initial work has proven more reliable than industry tools that simulate bearing cone sizes. To your point, modern quality brand bearings that adhere to international standards testing strive for tolerances in the 1/100,000ths of an inch during production. Trial fit bearings are a time saving way to reach a reasonable starting point. For a trial fit-up of ring-and-pinion gears in a production axle, new and "good" used bearings have close enough tolerances...Always set bearing preloads and final check the tooth contact patterns with the new bearings. Setting pinion depth, which is the most important axle building reference step, can also be checked with an arbor and discs, a scooter block and dial indicator. I have the Miller/SPX equipment to do this "factory" method for setting pinion depth on a Dana or AAM 9.25" or 11.5" axle. However, the cost of this tool set, even if found used at eBay, is prohibitive for most DIY installers. There are a few "universal" aftermarket pinion depth tools that get good reviews. As for tolerances, Dana and Spicer pinion bearing shimming is often done with just the original pinion gear marks. Shim stack adjustments for the new pinion gear are made by using the marks on the new pinion gear head and looking up the thousandths of an inch shim adjustment on a chart.

You're welcome...The aim is to balance the engine safely (left to right). You have the alternator below where the AC compressor would stand. I would estimate where the compressor would be and find an equivalent vertical point-likely in alignment with the outer edge of the alternator. Make sure the attachment point is solid and substantial. (A quality ratchet strap can play a role here if necessary. Avoid wires, connectors, harnesses and hoses.) If you change one mount at a time, the weight suspended at that side will be far less. (Loosen the opposite mount just enough to allow the engine to pivot readily.) Raise the engine at the passenger/alternator side enough to safely remove and install the new mount. Secure and torque the smaller fasteners then install the long through bolt-not fully tight yet. Install the opposite mount the same way. Once both mounts are in place and the engine has settled, finish tightening and torque the long bolts and nuts. Use Loctite Blue or Orange thread locker on the bolt and nut threads.

Not clear about your transmission's model application and year. Toyota, yes, but the year would help. I have Mopar parts manuals for comparing the intermediate plate part numbers on the AX15 from 1989-99 Jeep models, including the 4.2L/4.0L Jeep YJ, '97-'99 TJ and 4.0L XJ Cherokee applications. I do have Toyota shop manuals for the eighties and into the nineties. Glad to compare if you can share details on "older" versus "newer" parts.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks for the reply. From what I can tell, the box I have is the earlier style with the nut on the end of the countershaft, I think I read that is the style the US 4runners had behind the turbo 22RE (86-88), though it would have been from an early Hilux or Surf (anywhere from 1990 to '93 and later). The parts I have ordered and replaced would be from the later model JDM trucks (i.e. Hilux, Prado) which would be later 90's to around '08.

For part number comparisons, I looked at each year from 1989 to 1999 under Jeep applications of the AX15. This is the widest model year spread in Jeep's use of the Aisin 5-speed AX15. All 1989-99 models use the same part number for the intermediate plate, which sold in combination with the front transmission case under Mopar part number 05252034 (designated as "CASE, Transmission"). It's the same for each model year from 1989-99. If these Chrysler/Jeep listings are applicable to Toyota parts, it suggests that at least from 1989 up, Aisin's intermediate plate would be the same design and parts fit. If there was a change, it would be an updated or superseded part number, which does not happen for Mopar. I found the part(s) under a two- and four-wheel drive 1997 Dodge Dakota pickup listing at: www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/dodge/Dakota/CASE-Transmission-Four-Wheel-Drive--Two-Wheel-Drive/4321652/05252034.html. It's the same part numbers as Jeep listed and is "Currently not available" from Mopar. (If you drill down at the link's "What It Fits", the current catalog applications for this part number are shown as 1997-99 Dodge Dakota and Jeep; however, the earlier Mopar catalogs back to 1989 show the same part number.) Let us know what you discover and the remedy for your issue.

The headlight assemblies are AlphaRex LUXX series. I did not change the bulbs that came with the AlphaRex LUXX headlights. Beyond the video you watched here at the channel, I did an article at my magazine: 4wdmechanix.com/2005-gen-3-ram-alpharex-luxx-series-headlight-upgrade/. To my knowledge, there is no way to replace the LUXX's projector bulbs that came with these assemblies. You would need to purchase the entire headlamp assembly or assemblies. (You might contact AlphaRex to confirm whether or not they offer bulbs as a separate item.) Lamps like those in the LUXX headlights are built into the headlight assemblies. While they will last a very long time, new headlamp assemblies would replace them at that point. Unless defective, headlight assemblies like these usually last until the vehicle is sold or traded.

My mirrors came from Baja Designs, a quality setup. However, you've likely discovered that Baja Designs no longer offers dual-sport motorcycle conversion products. (They also did great stator rewinds. Wish I had gotten mine done.) So, my suggestion would be one of the major parts retailers: Revzilla, Chaparral, Rocky Mountain and others. See if Acerbis has any offerings, they have quality products. Come join us at the motorcycle channel: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Let us know what kind of mirrors you find! There is a lot of XR650R content at the motorcycle channel now.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks. Will do. Already subscribed.

Thanks, your subscription is valued...Subscribers help determine the channel's content and where we're going!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Do you have a video on oil line installation. Very tight location to put 2 screws in to hold lines tin motor.

Which oil line are you doing? I'll check my bike and see how the line might be approached.

A complete rebuild kit consists of all bearings, seals and gaskets (as needed), shims, a new self-locking pinion nut (if used), a pinion nut back-up washer (if used), sealant or a gasket for the differential cover, and tooth contact paste with a brush for testing the ring-and-pinion mesh or tooth contact pattern. "Quality" means bearings, seals and shims that meet OEM standards or better. I like Timken, SKF, Federal-Mogul and NSK bearings. Bearings are made to an international standard. When we stay with higher quality bearings, the dimensions are so close that shim stack thicknesses generally remain the same. (Notice that I use bearings with minimal wear for trial fit of shims and parts. This is because the tolerances are that close to the new bearings.) Seals are the same. Quality seal manufacturers include Timken, Federal-Mogul, National, Dana and SKF. Better suppliers sell these components as a "package" alongside a ring-and-pinion gear set.

Thank you. I prefer Timken or SKF. And between the two, choose SKF. But I cannot find an SKF Master rebuild kit. Only the 11.5 SKF master kit.

If you have a 2003-2013 Ram with the 9.25", try AAM for the 9.25" kit. Eaton offers differential installation kits although differential-only may not include all of the parts needed for a complete ring-and-pinion change. There is Yukon and Randy's, as well as Revolution Gear, Superior and Torque King 4x4. I checked out the Torque King offering for a Ram 9.25". Seems pricy but this is a quality, (full) kit example: torqueking.com/product/4880/tk4880-master-front-differential-bearing-and-seal-kit-for-ram-aam-925/.

Mickey Thompson follows our content and listens!

Yep, still "at it", Bill! Let us know how the 42" tires work...You'll find the new motorcycle channel interesting, I just passed through Smith Valley on the back way to Bodie. We rode enduro bikes from 338 and NF 028 to Four Corners and up the Bodie Road/State Route 3C: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Stopped at Rosie's Place for dinner!

The Mickey Thompson website can help direct you here: www.mickeythompsontires.com/.

Thanks for your input here...In our interview/tour, Ben Anderson talks about the latest rubber compounds and tire elements. He spoke specifically about the longer wear and longer (limited) warranty on mileage. The M/T website can furnish details at: www.mickeythompsontires.com/. Check it out!

Glad you liked it! You're welcome...

Ben Anderson knows the facts and details. He's a great resource for an interview!

Yes, they do!

These are popular retailers...I'm fortunate to be near the Summit Racing Warehouse at Sparks, Nevada. M/T Tires and Wheels has a long list of distributors.

Very stylish while being fully functional...I like them, too. Bronze is catchy.

I'll have to check it out...

Conceived to combat center-of-gravity and roll center issues. Full-Traction Suspension put a lot of research into the design. It's worth talking with the tech staff at Full-Traction Suspension for more details.

Drove home 410 miles yesterday, half after dark on two-way traffic, two lane U.S. 95 from Las Vegas to Fallon then 50A to Fernley. Pleased with the safer bright lights, no irritated on comers, no eye strain. Doesn't get any better!

If it's a removable crankcase, the casting repair could work well. Be sure to remove the crankcase from the block, though. Heating and welding a crankcase in place is a recipe for a bad fire or, worse yet, igniting the hot, volatile fumes and causing an explosion. The crankcase should be cleaned thoroughly, glass bead blasted if necessary, then washed under pressure before drying and welding. "V"-ing or grooving the fissure or break is important for complete weld penetration. If a crack, drill a hole at each end of the crack to prevent the crack from continuing; "V" or groove the crack for complete weld penetration. Any weld build-up/penetration inside the crankcase should be smoothed to prevent sloughing off of any slag. The crankcase's mating surface with the block should be checked for flatness or finished (milled) after welding for a correct fit. Grey cast iron doesn't move much, that's why it's prone to cracking at the heat affected zone as the weld cools and contracts. If you are concerned about warp during welding, consider bolting the crankcase to a flat metal surface before welding...Also, if the crankcase break or crack is not part of a load bearing member or under a lot of pressure in service, brazing is often a lower temperature repair approach.

Quality LED lights make a dramatic difference. I'm headed to the SEMA Show/Las Vegas pre-dawn tomorrow. You can imagine the difference it makes driving with the LEDs. It's much better for oncoming drivers, too: The "cut-off line" with LEDs is distinct and helpful. The OEM lamps were horrible. Between their dim, diffused light and an unclear high/low beam brightness, nobody could see. Pick a quality lighting setup and enjoy sharp, bright roads ahead!

The installation shown is a 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee. All parts needed for this brake application have been shown. These brake pads have locating lugs (shown and discussed in the video) that keep pads from rotating or shifting out of position in the caliper. (Some brake pad types use spring clips at the pad ends to keep pads from rotating or shifting.) These 1999 XJ Cherokee brake pads do have "shim" backers built into the backside of the pads. I added special paste (orange) designed for anti-squeal to the backside (not the friction material side) of the pads. The paste covers the built-in shims on this brake pad set-up. To confirm whether a specific make or model with disc brakes uses additional shims, clips, springs or other hardware, consult a Mopar parts catalog or a brake parts supplier's catalog for your make and model.

Just went into this topic at the motorcycle channel. You can find that lengthy exchange at youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. (You'll find this video and Comments there.) You'll also find that exchange in my "Q&A" video (Episode 3) on this topic...Join us, I'd be glad to continue with any questions you have after watching the "Tech and Travel Q&A" on oil going out the breather. I'll mention here that the transmission and engine crankcase use the same oil. The crankcase section for the crankshaft and lower end of the engine is a chamber separated by a one-way reed valve between the crankcase and the transmission gearset...Thanks!

This kind of creativity and ingenuity could keep the ICE alive. Your concept dovetails with the Pulstar engineering. Thanks for sharing!

I have a video on the installation (TCI Products racks) at the motorcycle channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIbPmWWhasykh6c. TCI included a substantial under-fender brace for this rack set. TCI engineered this well, however, the issue is weight capacity of the rear sub-frame on these bikes. (The subframe is aluminum on an XR650R.) My weight limit, including racks, the under-fender brace and payload is no more than 50 pounds. Others may push it beyond this. The brace attaches to the subframe with 6mm stud size bolts, so judge from there...Join us at the motorcycle channel, lots of discussion and tech videos: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel.

I'm with ya here! 5,000 rpm is the practical limit for these engines. 4,500 rpm makes a sensible redline. The later 258/4.2L inline sixes reached peak torque around 1600 rpm-much like a diesel's torque rise. Unless racing, not much need to rev over 4,000 rpm on the highway or trail!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback...

Pleased this worked well...That was the intent. Thanks for your feedback!

Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks for the feedback...Glad that the video helps. You will like my motorcycle channel at youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Join us there!

Tudor...This is a great question and issue that many XR650R and other 4-stroke owners might have...I'd like to ask a favor: Could you please copy and paste your question at this same video on the motorcycle channel? You'll find the video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mprVkJywoMeCgKs. I am excited to share my reply and details! We're growing the motorcycle channel (youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel), and there are already many XR650R-related exchanges...Thanks!

Good that you have not attempted to install the head, pushrods and rocker arms. If you primed the oiling system with the head, pushrods and valvetrain not on the block, several or all of the lifters have "pumped up". The plungers extended in those lifters, and now the non-compressible oil will not allow the plungers to drop down. (In a normal engine running, with all parts installed, it takes several rotations of the crankshaft for each 0.001" of plunger drop. At this point, you cannot assemble and crank the engine to achieve this drop without risk of damaging the valves and pistons.) So, you need to remove the lifters from their bores and push down/pump each lifter plunger with a pushrod to expel the oil from within the lifter. Once the oil is pumped out, you can reinstall the lifters, install the head and rockers (no pushrods in place at this point) then measure the pushrod lengths for correct plunger preloads with a CompCams or similar pushrod length gauge. Fit the correct length pushrod at each position and reinstall the rocker arms...As for finding the crankshaft position with both valves closed, install your distributor with #1 piston at TDC. Note the position of the rotor. Spark plugs removed and pistons visible, lifters on their base circles or low points, check pushrod lengths and lifter preloads for #1 cylinder. Now rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction until #5 piston just reaches TDC. Both lifters for #5 should be on their base circles or low points of their camshaft lobes. If the piston is at TDC with both valves closed, you can check the pushrod lengths and lifter preloads. Now slowly rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction to #3 piston at TDC, both lifters on the base circles of their lobes, and fit these two pushrods while determining the correct lifter preload. Do this for each cylinder in the remaining firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4). Consider that each position in the firing order is 120 crankshaft degrees apart. As an alternative, if you have a degree wheel or protractor, you can mark the damper pulley at the #1/#6 TDC position (already a factory mark there) and then at 120 and 240 degrees. Following the firing order and rotor position, align the marks while verifying that the piston is at TDC.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I will read this post a couple times to absorb the info, but to be clear, I primed it while everything was assembled. Spun the oil pump gear with a drill until the rockers overflowed. This was a few months ago. The engine sat while I researched some stuff. I recently disassembled the rockers to change the springs out for cam break in. I think I can still apply your technique to drain the lifters. The motor has never been started. Working towards cam break in but had to go backward to verify some bad intel from the guy who supplied the rotating assembly. Proceeding with caution...

Priming while assembled should have worked...A possible cause for the lifter plungers to rise and stay extended would be oil present in the hollow pushrods and lifter oil galley while you removed the valve springs. When you removed the rocker arms, pushrods slacked and the lifter plungers rose under their internal spring pressure. Oil could have drained down from the pushrods and into the lifters (some or all of them), filling the lifters. This would hold the lifter plunger in the extended position...Yes, try what I suggested about removing the lifters (easy enough on a Jeep inline six). Pump the oil out of the lifters, and if necessary, do the pushrod length/lifter preload check again with a CompCams pushrod length gauge available at Summit Racing and elsewhere. I describe the gauge in my forum coverage at: forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/849-choosing-jeep-40l-and-stroker-six-pushrod-length/. With the right pushrod lengths for correct lifter clearances, lube the lifter bases with assembly lube and install the pushrods and rocker arms before priming again. (General rule: Do not prime or crank a hydraulic lifter engine with the rocker arms removed.) Let us know what your find.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I have the measuring tool and the lifters on no 1 are not solid/pumped up, so I can get my rod measurement. I'll empty the others and hopefully everything will be ok. Thanks a million friend!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Fun with lifters. Got the first one out and the oil wouldn't pump out so I took it apart and put it back together. Some oil did spill out and it seems really good now. Would torquing the lifters and slowly rotating the crank force the oil out up through the rod. I always heard about lifters draining over time too. Hylift/Johnson lifters. Never under any significant load. Just from hand turning the crank a few times. Big problem is that several cannot be removed to service due to the head. Do the holes on the plunger line up with the outside hole or should they offset? I will have to do this one more time when I replace the springs. I think I'm just gonna have to use the crank to take pressure off of the lifters and hope for the best. I can remove about 8 of them but I do believe that I'm ok as long as I get the rod length right. FASCINATING STUFF! EDIT: Plungers fully compress after disassembly. Seem a bit soft, but probably normal.

Thanks!...It's tough making choices in the scan tool market. This unit still shows up in retailer inventories and works for me. The push is to the 909, 919, Ultra and, yes, get ready, an even newer model that's coming out shortly. For commercial shops, the 909-up Autel scan tools are great-and even vital-for the latest model vehicles. Annual software subscriptions get paid by customer service at the shops. DIY techs with personal vehicles do not have this advantage, and the "discontinued" MS906TS has proven cost-effective and worthwhile for many.

That's the trailer for the one hour and fifteen minute step-by-step video you can view at kzbin.info/www/bejne/omHdfp-Mlsqbq9k.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Oh ok gotcha. Thanks.

You're welcome...Thanks for the reply. I clarified the title...The full-length video has positive feedback.

Excellent...Steve Roberts and I thought this would be helpful to users. These are rugged, highly durable units when used and shifted correctly...You'll really enjoy its virtues!

Also can it cruise 75 mph pretty well? Im working on a xr, and i want to be able to cruise on the highway, as well as do some trails/fire roads etc. It has 13/50 right now and i was going to put on a 15/48 and keep that 13 front for knarly trails and just change it onsite

The issue with that is i dont want to have to change the sprocket in the field if i dont have to. In your proffesional opinion what is the best ratio for a decent time on the highway, and enough power to lug some trails

Yes...stock ratio. A bit low gearing for highway. I run this for combination dirt/highway and to keep a load off the clutch in single track crawls. The rear tire is slightly oversized, which makes the gearing just a tad taller, not equivalent to a 15/48 or other sprocket changes, though...Frankly, for dual-sport riding on asphalt, I'm always hunting for a sixth gear on upshifts-and there isn't one! (My '84 XR350R is a six-speed; my XR500R slated for restoration is five speeds like the XR650R.) Trust this helps...Join us at the Motorcycle Tech and Travel channel: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. There's a lot of content on the XR650R there.

For cruising 75 mph, it will do it with the 14/48 but is a waste of fuel and creates unnecessary piston travel. These engines have so much mid-range power that there is no need to ever experience the rev limiter. Your 13/50 ratio must be a real "tractor" for off-pavement and way low for highway! My bike will likely stick with the 14/48, as it does surprisingly well on slow, idle-and-tip-in single track, even with the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft (which does not seem to bother the slow speed performance). 15/48 might be "okay" to save sprocket changing, especially if your sights are set on a 75 mph cruise speed...Let's continue this conversation at Motorcycle Tech and Travel, I'd like to stay in contact around your plans, and our exchanges would be helpful to others!

I'm very pleased...Thanks for the feedback!

The chain at the passenger/right side is cradling the back of air conditioning compressor. At minutes 1:40-1:51, you see the chain tensioned at the rear of the A/C compressor. What may seem confusing is the two slacked pieces of chain that are simply the extra ends of the support chains. (See 2:04-2:11 for the slack at the extra chain.) There is no chain attachment at the front of the compressor or anywhere near the fan. Support at the passenger side of the engine is strictly the chain slung beneath the back of the compressor. The compressor has enough support to handle this amount of engine weight. When lifting, use the wing nuts on the beam as noted. To change motor mounts, the engine actually pivots upward from the rear transmission mount. Weight on the support beam is not extreme, which you will see when you tighten the wing nut handles. Be careful and watch for parts interference, binding or obstructions. Lift just enough to safely remove the mount(s). Keep hands out of harm's way at all times. Watch through the video again with these steps in mind.

Are you looking for an Advance Adapters "Ranger Torque Splitter", the two-speed (overdrive) gearbox that goes between your GM V8 bellhousing and the SM465 transmission? The folks at Advance Adapters could have a lead: phone 1-800-350-2223 or contact www.advanceadapters.com. I ran this same setup in the late eighties, a Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 with a 383 Chevy stroker V8 and SM465 four-speed manual truck box. Great for split shifting and an overdrive gear! The Torque Splitter uses a single shift lever. You have two levers with the SM465 Muncie truck box and its cane.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Yes, this is exactly what I'm lookin for. Thanks for the tip. I had heard they don't manufacture this untit anymore, but hoping for some kinda lead.

Most have opted for later transmission swaps like the NV4500, NV5600 or more recently the Tremec 4050, each with an overdrive top gear. (The iron NV4500 five-speed and iron NV5600 six-speed were available in GM and Dodge Ram 2WD and 4WD trucks. I prefer the NV4500 five-speed for its reliability record.) Split shifting was the bonus with the Ranger Torque Splitter. There was always a "right" gear when pulling a load or saving fuel at cruise.

I actually got a reply from them, and appreciate the efforts. Doesn't look too proming tho.

Thought that might be the situation for the reasons I suggested. There's the Gear Vendors overdrive available for your SM465/2WD truck. For a C30, the Gear Vendors overdrive would be approaching the top of its GVWR/GCVWR. (Gear Vendors' commercial warranty is limited to 25,000-pounds GCVWR.) The good news is that it can be split-shifted and installs readily with a driveline length cut. Here are details: www.gearvendors.com/cg2wdt.html. Again, you could consider an NV4500 with overdrive if split shifting is not a must. Your truck is 2WD, and the changeover would not be difficult (transmission mount and driveline length, primarily). There are recycled and rebuilt transmissions available. Check out the NV4500 availability. The NV5600 is an option, though there are mandatory upgrades needed to keep an NV5600 alive.

Thanks!

Many use their 258/4.2L crankshaft and rods in a 4.0L block to produce a stroker motor. The 4.0L has a 1/8" larger bore than the 258. The 4.0L stroke is shorter. The marriage between these two engines produces great power. With a complete 4.0L donor engine, a modern stroker engine can be built. I like the 1991-95 distributor-type 4.0L donor engines with the 60-way/pin PCM and original engine wiring harness included. This build has been covered extensively at 4WD Mechanix Magazine and its forums.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel thanks 🙏 my is from a jeep Wrangler 1990. Islander

You have the last carbureted 258 inline six. Not a slouch! I went over the Rubicon trail with these models and competed in the '87/'88 Jeep Cup Rally as well. I'm a big fan of the 258, even in stock form. We lit these engines up with the Mopar Performance EFI Conversion in the mid-nineties. The 1981-90 258 CJs and YJs could gain a conservative 50 horsepower with the bolt-on conversion, better fuel efficiency and excellent high altitude performance. Even the stock BBD Carter carbureted models deliver fun, reliable service!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel yes carburetor

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I tried to repair the engine, but got bad luck with the guys in the machine shop

I agree that engine coolant temperature is regulated by the thermostat. The A/C condenser temperature affects the engine cooling system's load. Different refrigerants and refrigerant additives can impact the air temperatures flowing from the A/C system's vents. A change in refrigerant type or a quality additive can change the A/C efficiency, regardless of the engine's coolant temperature.

Yes, almost a guarantee...Wise to pick up a replacement radiator drain plug before this task. If the original plastic plug stays intact, you'll have a new one on hand. I have two spares on the shelf.

In the video I use a few specialty tools: a flare nut socket, Torx drivers and the automatic transmission line coupler disconnect tool. Each tool is demonstrated. If you are asking for more details on the tool used to uncouple the transmission line coupler (lower line), my set has the common Lisle graduated sizes (U.S./SAE or metric sizes available). Here is an example of a Lisle "master kit": www.amazon.com/Lisle-39900-Master-Disconnect-Set/dp/B000W1R1J0/ref=sr_1_15. There are also single disconnect tools available in just the size you need for a specific fuel, automatic transmission or air conditioning line coupler. (Measure the tubing diameter for sizing.) Let me know whether you have any other tool questions.

Lol was wondering the same thing.. working on mine now and I ended up using a 3/8in disconnect tool. I think that's "the correct tool" you were referring to

Thanks for filling in the blank. Tubing size can vary over the model years, so my comment is generic. I have a "set" of disconnect tools with all the common U.S. and metric sizes. That way, I always have the "correct tool"!

Fair enough! Great helpful video 🍻​@RoadReadywithMosesLudel

I understand the countershaft issue. I will likely replace my XR650R's shaft during a future bench rebuild, as this engine puts out a lot of torque. There are distinct differences between our frames, although the XR650L does come as a plateable, dual-sport motorcycle. U.S. XR650Rs require a conversion for dual-sport use and can only be street licensed at states that allow these conversions.

I always use fresh, distilled water and never use mineralized tap water in my cooling systems. (See the section beginning at 5:54 through 7:21 of this video for details on flushing with distilled water.) I did clean the system during this service but did not find much debris. The flush procedure is described in your factory workshop manual if you need "official" guidelines.

I just checked the Autel website, and the MS906TS has been officially discontinued: autel.com/us/product/maxisys-ms906-ts/ (see footnote at the description). I have attended several online webinars with Autel, and the push has been to the later MaxiSys 909, 919 and, especially, the Ultra platforms. (The 919 and Ultra platforms can support a VCMI interface and wide range of additional features and functions: autel.com/us/product/maxiflash-vcmi-kit/.) The MS906TS can still be found through 3rd party vendors and distributors. However, I encourage your thoroughness and initiative to determine specific model coverage before buying a seemingly outdated MS906TS. (Annual subscription downloads are still available for this model and typically less costly than software for the upscale platforms.) The later platforms have many more features to offer-at a substantially higher price. The annual software subscriptions for shops that need ongoing updates are considerably more expensive for the 909, 919 and Ultra than the MS906TS (which is costly enough). Ongoing and annual software updates from any scan tool manufacturer can be costly, and Autel is reasonable compared to some. Make sure you understand the software update needs and costs. To date, Autel has allowed customers to use their original software load after it expires...I am using my MS906TS exclusively for vehicles covered in the original/included software that came with the unit. This covers 1996-up OBD II systems, which includes our current vehicles: a 1999 Jeep Cherokee, a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and our 2005 Ram 3500 with a Cummins turbodiesel. At the Autel site, if you wish to pursue this further, you can get the specifications and features for the upscale platforms. The MS906Pro and MS906Pro-TS are still available and provide faster processing speeds than the MS906TS. The Autel site also has information on which vehicle models are covered by each scan tool platform and the accessories kit...For my purposes, the MS906TS with the initial software load has worked well. I'm not performing commercial work nor am I currently working on vehicles beyond the range of the original MS906TS software coverage. Autel builds great products and has become a world leader. Pricing reflects that status.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thank you for your perfectly articulated reply. It is most appreciated sir and I will take it under serious advisement as I drown myself in the abys of Autel diagnostic platform specifications and software contract SNAFUs.

I am interested in your findings and conclusions. Diagnostic tablets and software updates or cloud services can be quite expensive. For DIY use, Autel was the cost-saving, quality alternative for some time. The tablet line now caters to commercial shop users. (The DIY "link" systems are OBDII data stream readers.) Worth noting, I do use my Autel MaxiScope MP408 Oscilloscope and OAK accessories kit to good end. (This product has also been discontinued, as oscilloscopes are now built into the higher end, more costly Autel tablets.) The MP408 has the advantage of diagnosing components and systems without dependence on the ECU/ECM or PCM data stream. There is a learning curve...If accessible, an MP408 with OAK is valuable and far less costly than a diagnostic tablet.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel First let me say that I am a retired engine systems control technician formerly educated and trained in Diesel and Heavy Equipment Repair and Industrial Maintenance Technologies. Now that I’m retired, I am basically a DIYer and have family fleet of vehicles to maintain and repair. These include Toyota, Jeep, Chrysler and my 2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. I have not used diagnostic scanners since the 90s when I was a mechanic. Then, I had a MPSI PRO LINK 9000 which I used on GM, Ford and Chrysler vehicles up to and ending at 1990. You can view a very interesting video of this early scan tool here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXjNqWaladmInq8si=67_VSJ7GGmnL-GFF It was available with the BIG 3 automotive cartridges/adaptors as well as diesel truck engine. By the end of the 90s I was no longer an automotive/heavy equipment mechanic so did not invest in another scan tool until July 2024. WOW what a different world we live in now right? So here we are, 2024 looking to purchase my 2nd scanner of my life at age 65 and I am completely overwhelmed by all the great products to choose from. Your 2022 video: “Why We Picked the Autel MS906TS Scan Tool for Our Shop” kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGPMiqKHas1rmKMsi=yAumiY2jj73J_Rz9 is exactly what I was looking for from a DIYer’s perspective. You were basically looking for the best diagnostic scan tool for your money without having to pay for annual software updates for the tool to operate to your needs level; you basically “owned” the software. I thought EXACTLY! I can’t afford $300-$600 annual updates to keep a diagnostic tool as it was purchased and used during the first year. Your video on your choice of tool(s) was very helpful and ON POINT! So much so that I decided on using it as my Holy Grail of sorts to help me choose the best and most affordable tool for me and my needs, which are very much like yours were then. I started my research with the MS906TS you purchased in ’22. Next my Autel research into oscilloscope packages started of course with your MP408 Oscilloscope and OAK accessories kit. Starting with the MS906TS my search queries on the Autel store website resulted in 4 other Autel recommended scanners. • A search of the Autel Store for the MaxiSYS MS909 shows it being sold out and a cost of $3,795.00. • A search for the MS919 shows still available with 5-in-1 VCMI, Same as Autel Ultra -The MaxiFlash VCMI is a small but complete and reliable lower computer with powerful hardware extensions such as oscilloscope, waveform generator, multimeter, and CAN BUS tester. It also supports multiple transmission protocols simultaneously such as KPW, CAN, CAN-FD, DoIP, etc. AT A COST OF $4,745.00 (ON SALE) • A search for the MP408 Oscilloscope is of course obsolete and no longer available. Conclusion: In order to get close to your original MS906TS as it relates to the Oscilloscope compatibility; I have to spend upwards of between $3,795 and $4,745.00. These include the scope (VCMI) and software interfaces. For my DYI vehicle maintenance needs for my 2015 Ram 6.7L I wanted the capability to perform a relative compression test using the 4 channel VCMI (scope). The Ultra Lite S car scanner can collaborate with MV108S/BT506 to conduct digital inspections and cranking and charging, but I would have to go with the Maxisys Ultra to get the VCMI (Scope) connectivity; and this would be at a cost of $5,695.00! The only platforms that are compatible with the VCMI (Scope) are the Maxisys Ultra or the MS919 at a cost of $5,695 and $4,745.00 respectively. The MaxiFlash VCMI (Scope) comes with both units. Research shows Autel only offers the Oscilloscope with these 2 units. Obtaining the VCMI by itself would probably be pointless because the software needed to interface with it seems to currently only be available on the Maxisys Ultra and the MS919. I have inquired of Autel as to the availability of an VCMI upgrade for other Autel units with same specs. Nothing in specifications or descriptions in Autel’s other platforms leads one to believe that Autel is planning on making a software download available for other platforms in the foreseeable future. But you never know; and if they did, the cost for a software upgrade to units such as MaxiCOM MK906-TS Pro or the Maxisys 906 Pro would probably be very expensive. Summary: The Autel world of Oscilloscope interface scanners has a much different look than it did when you did this video in 2022. There are only 2 Autel scanners that will do what I want to be able to do and those are the MS919 and Maxisys Ultra. I can’t afford a $5000 scanner so I will most likely consider purchasing a unit such as the Maxisys MS906 Pro or MaxiCOM MK906-TS because they are probably closest to my needs for the money. I have not talked about the annual software updates because Autel will cut their own throats if annual updates became necessary for the tool to function as purchased. In 2024 the old adage “YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR” has cunningly and emphatically been adopted by Autel. I am also now having to consider purchasing scanner from a different manufacturer; one that offers an affordable bang for my buck like Autel was for you in 2022. I can only assume that the high demand for their products have contributed significantly to their current retail market posturing as it pertains to their new “PAY TO PLAY” roll out of their 2024 line up. This might not be the money game I can afford to play. Maybe Launch, Topdon, Ancel, Xtool or Thinkdiag 2 still offer an affordable bang for my buck.

Thanks much for your thorough research and findings. They match my recent experience. I'm not faulting Autel for its success, but you're correct in noting that the manufacturer's focus is now commercial shops that want higher-end equipment. I took several Autel/NTK webinar workshops over the last 18 months and discovered that my MS906TS and the MP408 got no mention in the demonstrations. (As a footnote, MS906TS upgrades to the later tablet functions do not exist, either.) The sole products demonstrated in the webinars were VCMI 919 and Ultra platforms with the features you describe. When I did the video, various Autel distributors were selling the MS906TS tablet with accessories in the $1,200-$1,600 (USD) range. The MS906PRO-TS came out immediately after I got my tablet. Have you looked at that unit? It's in the same price range as what my MS906TS sold for, and the MS906PRO-TS actually has faster processing and more features than the MS906TS. I searched a bit just now and found a new MS906PRO-TS that comes with the original/1-year software load (for U.S. buyers): www.obdprice.com/products/autel-maxisys-ms906pro-ts-tpms-diagnostic-scanner. I've not purchased from this vendor. You can explore this further. Frankly, the price of $1439 is very attractive and units are apparently in stock. While the MSOAK accessories kit is available (works with the MP408 and also other units), the MaxiScope MP408 is currently (or forever?) "sold out". A few years ago, the MP408 sold for $600-$800 (USD), including the OAK accessories. I really like this standalone oscilloscope, an option to the expensive PICO 4-channel! As a light/medium duty truck fleet mechanic in the late sixties/early seventies, and later as an automotive instructor, I valued engine analyzer/oscilloscopes. I like the idea of testing devices without a dependency on an onboard computer and data stream. With an in-cylinder pressure transducer (gasoline engines) and intake/exhaust pressure pulse sensor, an oscilloscope can perform in-depth engine diagnostics. A cranking, relative compression test based on starter draw is very quick...I have more information on the MaxiScope MP408 at my magazine and forums sites: forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1308-introducing-the-autel%C2%AE-mp408-maxiscope-and-oak-accessories/#comment-9243 and 4wdmechanix.com/autel-maxiscope-automotive-lab-scope/. Both the MS906TS and MP408 are well constructed, quality products. As I shared in the video, the Autel MS906TS is optimal for my uses. If we were doing commercial work, and if we needed constant vehicle/software updates, the current Autel choices that you describe (accurately) could "pay for themselves" over time. I am content, at least at the moment, to continue using the original MS906TS software load that Autel included in the package. With VCI, it's as advanced and reliable for my 1999-2005 vehicles as required. Your situation would be similar. As for high-end tablets and expensive annual subscription renewals, Autel is certainly not unique. Many tablet producers are trending toward mandatory "cloud services" for software nesting and streaming. This requires an uninterrupted, ongoing subscription fee. Some manufacturers offered optional tech support subscriptions that have now become part of the tablet package. As you note, up to this point, Autel has allowed customers' purchased software to remain active after the annual subscription expires...Thanks much for sharing, and let us know what you wind up doing!

Thanks for your feedback and insight...My use of the bar in this video was to support and hold up the front of the engine while replacing the motor mounts. (The transmission, transfer case and drivelines are in place.) As you can see in the video, I am far forward of the firewall and master cylinder. To your point, if supporting the rear of the engine (like during a transmission/transfer case removal) it would be important not to have the bar interfere with the brake master cylinder, booster or any other vital parts. This is a "universal" tool, which requires good judgment and adjustments for each use.

A Saginaw rotary valve power steering gear senses (measures) the vehicle load or steering wheel force by way of a torsion bar that runs inside the gear's hollow stub shaft. The torsion bar is pinned to the stub shaft's upper splined end; the pin can be seen at the coupler splines with the coupler removed. (The torsion bar can be seen at the top of the splined stub shaft.) The torsion bar runs through the hollow stub shaft and into the valve body's end cap. The torsion bar is pinned to the end cap. The torsion or twisting resistance is between the stub shaft's splined section and the valve body end cap. The end cap mates with the spool valve. The spool valve helps direct pressurized fluid to one side or the other of the rack piston. This pressurized fluid from the valve body assembly provides the power assist...Usually, the valve body requires nothing more than thorough cleaning. The torsion bar is seldom an issue or weak component. When there is a clear problem like the torque to move the spool valve is too light, the stub shaft assembly (including the torsion bar and end cap) would be replaced as a unit...I have never modified or machined a stub shaft's torsion bar and do not recommend doing so. There are other ways to increase the power assist and make the steering "easier". Heavy steering, especially at low engine speeds, usually has other causes. First, I would test the power steering pump to make sure it is producing the right pressure with the engine at an idle speed. This is when the vehicle is parked and needs the most power assist. A weak pump or low pressure setting (valving issue) could create too little power assist at low engine speeds. The other issue is flow or fluid volume even if the pump produces the right pressure. Flow can be restricted by a deteriorating hose, kinked hose, defective valves at the gear's fluid inlet and outlet, or a restriction within the steering gear. Both the pressure and return hoses must be in good condition...Increasing the pump pressure and volume could make steering lighter, but too much pressure is not good, either. It can damage seals or rupture a pressure hose. If the gear has been assembled properly and is sealing well, the pump may be at fault. If the gear is worn or has been rebuilt improperly, the Teflon rings may not be sealing properly at the valve body or between the rack piston and the steering gear's bore. A pressure loss here would decrease the power assist and make the steering feel heavy.