Yep, there was voiceover of the name correction using a different mic...You caught it! It is a cool product and very helpful for tire rotations and even roadside tire changes.

The 170-225 is a Chrysler four-main bearing slant six engine, not what you want. CompCams experienced engine code issues with the 1999-up coil-on-plug (COP) 4.0L engines when running the traditional 252H camshaft. The camshaft was still offered for 232, 258 and 4.0L distributor ignition engines (through 1999 on TJ and XJ models). Eventually, CompCams dropped the older 252H camshaft from its listings altogether. I just looked at the CompCams website. They offer four grinds for inline, seven-main bearing AMC/Jeep/Mopar six-cylinder engines at: www.compcams.com/products/comp-camshafts/jeep.html. Given these listings, there are two camshafts for non-COP engines that look practical for off road use: www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-197-201-hydraulic-cam-for-jeep-40l-1964-98-cpg.html and www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-205-213-hydraulic-cam-for-jeep-40l-1964-98-cpg.html. They have a single offering for 1999-2006 COP engines: www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-205-213-488-507-hydraulic-cam-for-jeep-4-0l-1999-06.html. You did not indicate the year vehicle. The concern is the PCM type (distributor ignition versus COP). I adhere to strong lift/milder duration for off-road use. There is a third camshaft available in the CompCams listings for distributor ignition engines, it has a longer duration profile. I trust this is helpful.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I have a 1995 XJ...sorry about that. Thank you for the time Moses. I saw those camshafts and was/am considering the 68-501-5 for sure. The other cam I thought had too much lift for the duration which equates to very aggressive ramps and less longevity. Even the 501-5 cam has fairly aggressive ramps, especially considering that comp cams grinds the xtreme series specifically to open the valves quicker so that the valves spend more time at higher lifts than at mid to lower lifts. This of course also equates to less longevity (according to orthodoxy...im thinking that roller rockers will help to mitigate accelerated wear on the valve train...thoughts?). I very much like the 108 LSA and the 6 degrees of advance ground into the 68-501-5 cam. I will go ahead and grab it since it seems to be the next best thing without getting a custom grind (this is also checking Isky and Crower as well as Howes or was it Hughes...). Thanks again for the time and your analysis Moses! If you're curious, I will let you know how it works out with scorpion rollers. I will very likely get 1.6 ratio since the flow bench numbers I have seen indicate that there is no point in going over .450 on the intake and .450-.460 on the exhaust. It's going to be a while on this build as I don't have enough funds right not to get it to finish, but I will see it through.

I appreciate the time, research and thought you have put into this camshaft choice. You were not clear whether this is a stroker build or not, though I'm guessing it is with the build depth. Given the stroke length, there is no concern around cylinder filling, my reason for using a milder duration camshaft. I build a two-valve Jeep engine for bottom end and midrange torque, not maximum horsepower bragging rights...On the rocker ratio and lift in general, we both have an interest in longevity. Make sure your valve springs are up for the task and that there is sufficient valve stem travel to prevent spring bind. Yes, please let us know how this works out and your final "success formula". I applaud your thoroughness on this project!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I most certainly will get back to you on it! Again, it will be some time from now. This will be slow going to completion. Your guess is correct, I have a crank out of a 79' AMC spirit station wagon that had a 258 in it. It will need to be turned for sure since the engine sat seized up for so long that it put light rust marks where the crank sat on the bearings for who knows how many years. It looks forged to me. I have seen lists where people list what years were forged and which were not. Mine is a 12 counter balance too, which is what I wanted. I weighed it on my bathroom scale. It was 70lbs even. Maximum torque at as low of an rpm as I can get is the goal here, I do not care if it falls on it's face past 4k rpm, and even then, it will be rare that I go above 3500rpm. Insofar as the springs, I have looked extensively at this. I have considered swapping over to 8mm valves from my current 5/16". Chevy LS2 valves seem to be the most straight forward swap. It would be a simple ream from .3125" to .3149" for the stems. The stem lengths are generally close between my factory valves and the LS2 valves I have seen so far if memory serves me correct. The other issue would be the valve head sizes, typically around 2" for the LS2 intake valves and 1.55-1.60 inch for the exhaust valves. The big advantage to swapping over would be a massively increased choice for valve springs and the possibility of a much lower cost (beehive springs as "takeoffs" from brand new LS crate motors for example...seen them as cheap as $80 on ebay complete with retainers and keepers) for them would help to recoup some of the cost of the machine work to swap over. (Note: Taking a quick look at later model 4.0L valve stem diameters available on summit, they list .327 stem dia for intakes as well as .314 and .326 for exhaust vs .312 or 5/16. .327 is 8.3mm....don't know about spring/retainer choices and availability for that stem size) Machine work necessary to install springs of choice for the factory valves vs the LS2 valves is comparable, typically the seats need to be cut deeper to around 1.700" install height and the pockets need to be cut bigger, usually around 1.450" or so..... One thing I'm kinda wondering about is that the factory spring seat diameter on the cylinder head is 1.350" roughly speaking (factory spring OD is roughly 1.312"). When I look at the cylinder head it doesn't look to me that cutting the seats deeper will do anything for the spring seat diameter. If I get springs that are in the range of 1.430" OD, how does that work, or does it work? I may end up being forced to go to the super trick beehive springs because their OD is sufficiently small to fit onto the spring seat of the cylinder head. Any thoughts/experiences are very welcome! Thank you once again Moses! Possibly these, they have flat dampers, but can't locate retainers for them so far: www.bing.com/search?q=%20mopar%20performance%20valve%20springs%20P5249464&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&lq=0&pq=%20mopar%20performance%20valve%20springs%20p5249464&sc=12-41&sk=&cvid=FDBBFD4D25E04230904139C17DD7ADB3&ghsh=0&ghacc=0&ghpl= These are good (despite no damper...no disadvantage at my rpm range...thoughts?) with seat presure at 108lbs and open was 310 (IIRC and I think the rep was saying that is at full gross lift, I did the extrapolation and it came out to ~ 272lbs at .450" lift ) and allows me to use stock retainers and support up to .490 gross lift with a 1.700" install height. I think the pockets need to be machined larger too, no biggie...fine (likely choice): www.compcams.com/ovate-wire-450-lift-valve-spring-kit-for-jeep-40l-1988-06-cpg.html These would also work, and have flat dampers but can't use stock retainers, would have to buy them so perhaps there's no real advantage over the other single springs, and there's increased cost: www.compcams.com/single-outer-valve-springs-1-475-o-d-1-062-i-d.html These beehives would be super trick, but obviously cost more and would require one more machining process to the valve guide step diameter, though I haven't ruled them out (then again, I don't need to machine the pockets bigger because the OD is so small, so still two machining processes/steps). I'm also pretty sure the retainers are for 8mm stems, so I would have to do the valve swap. I'm not sure of how much I would benefit from the increased control of the valves and keeping them on their seats given the rpm range im going to be spinning: www.compcams.com/beehivetm-valve-springs-top-1-013-o-d-650-i-d-bottom-1-101-o-d-738-i-d.html A quick look on Jegs yielded something fruitful: Mopar performance P5249877...cheapest so far is ~$21 each...acceptable.

The 12 counterweight crankshaft is a find. This crankshaft (like all others) needs balancing with the reciprocating parts. Most machine shops install silicon bronze guide liners. Guide liner I.D. and wall thickness would be one more layer to consider when attempting to install oversized (8mm) valve stems. At the speeds you plan to run the engine, working with stock Jeep valve sizing and quality aftermarket replacement valves would make the best sense. My '99 OEM 4.0L XJ engine is approaching 200K miles still with good cylinder seal. If you were doing a high-revving build, the exotic GM valves and springs might make sense (if they can be successfully fitted). When you order a camshaft kit, also get the correct range CompCams adjustable pushrod gauge. It's an inexpensive way to determine the correct pushrod lengths for proper lifter preloads. This step is a deal breaker when overlooked. OEM replacement pushrods are available in an array of lengths from Melling and others. They are not expensive, I would size and fit each of the twelve pushrods after the long block has been completely assembled. The head gasket is in place with the head bolts torque'd to specification. Your rocker arms, whatever type you use, get installed during this test.

A full set of OEM bearings should be available from a Ford/Lincoln dealership or an NOS Ford source. There should be a Ford or Lincoln/Mercury part number for the full set of bearings, available as the "worm ball package". If you know a patient (preferably older) Ford parts counterperson with access to late sixties and newer Lincoln or F-truck catalogs, the two-bolt cover, recirculating ball power gears like your Lincoln unit were used in the big passenger cars and light-duty F-truck, 2nd generation Bronco and F150s that use the two-bolt cover gear.

Thank you so much for your help and quick reply!

I trust this was helpful. Source books call your gear "Ford Type" even though the design around the worm-and-rack piston is essentially Saginaw. As you note, your gear is the two-bolt cover design, which is what a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury dealer or NOS source needs to know...

Thank you again. I talked to a few people earlier today. We got hit with ice and snow which stops business and traffic her. I will get to some dealers face to face next week. Pretty sure with the info you provided me will be great help!

When I was in high school, there was a sixties Kaiser Era CJ in our community with a "factory" option Perkins diesel. Aside from the excessive exhaust soot, the naturally aspirated, direct injection diesel worked reasonably well, performing much like the Jeep F-head gasoline four. The engine had plenty of torque and a high fuel mileage rating. By today's standards, the performance would not be impressive, way short of a Cummins 4BT 3.9L or a VW ALH 1.9L turbodiesel...In my view, the 4BT would be too heavy for a CJ3B or a CJ5 frame to 1971. An ALH would make better swap material for these lighter frames...Here's a good article on the Perkins-CJ models: www.motortrend.com/features/1404-1966-jeep-cj-5-perkins-diesel-encyclopedia/.

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Mahindra got the American International harvester diesel tractor engines in the CJ3B and called it CJ500. The 38 bhp idi engine was a workhorse. It climbed the Himalayas with ease. The first generation Borg and Warner transfer case, the 3 speed stick shift and the Dana axles, saw India through all the wars.

The Mahindra should have been very reliable with that engine. I can imagine the parts flow. I-H Scout 80 used essentially the same transfer case and transmission as the Willys/Kaiser Era Jeep CJs. Mahindra was originally under license with Willys, hence the CJ3B. That model has always been my favorite flat fender. The high hood for the F-head four distinguishes it, and in the U.S. market, the CJ3B was an 80-inch wheelbase. The CJ-5 was 81-inch. The CJ3B overlapped the CJ-5 during production. CJ3B models were sold alongside the 1955-up CJ-5 through 1964. (The original Willys/Kaiser CJ-5 was built from 1955 to 1971. AMC bought Jeep Corporation in 1970.) In the fall of 1964, my parents bought a new CJ-5 with the optional T-98A truck-type four speed transmission. The compound low gear was extraordinary, axle gearing was 5.38:1, and the F-head engine could be easily started in low range, compound low gear, clutch engaged, using the 12V starter motor. This method was especially useful on a steep off-road gradient and not intended for "normal" starting!

I saw your post at the forums, a good space to continue the discussion...I understand your interest in diesel options and look forward to our exchange at the forums.

@ thanks for responding

Interested in seeing where you want to take your project...We can explore this at the forums!

The "torque" on the adjuster nuts ("spanner nuts") is determined by zero side play of the carrier bearings plus tightening the adjuster nut six additional notches. This six notches past zero side play creates a preload on the carrier bearings, and this is the factory method for setting the adjusters. For the 11.5" AAM axle, review minutes 38:08 to 40:17 of the video, including the scrolling text comments. I describe the settings for a 2005 Ram 3500 11.5" AAM axle. To verify that the carrier bearing preload is correct, we check the rotational torque at the pinion shaft as described in the video. (Before installing the carrier and setting up the carrier bearing preload, the pinion shaft bearing preload and rotational torque have already been set. This is described in the video.) After tightening the carrier adjuster nuts as described in the video, we once again check the rotational torque at the pinion nut. The carrier's weight and the carrier bearing preload add to the pinion bearing preload. This combined (final) rotational preload tells us whether the carrier bearing preload adjustment is correct and within range. That's how we know whether the adjuster nut preload is set correctly. (The pinion shaft rotational torque specifications for the bearing preload checks can be found in the shop manual for your axle.) In the video section on the 9.25" AAM axle, I describe the pinion bearing and carrier bearing preload settings for the 2005 Ram 3500 AAM front axle. Confirm the specifications for your model...This should help.

In my experience, the tablet has worked well, it's shown good build quality and been durable. Like other companies' scan tools, the annual software subscription has become costly. Years ago, Autel catered to all users, including DIY mechanics. Support now focuses on the higher end, newer tools for commercial (mostly independent) automotive and diesel shop users...Any tablet that offers full functions, from any manufacturer, is now expensive. So are software subscriptions. (Some manufacturers force uses to buy renewable cloud access and tech support services just to keep the scan tool working.) The good news is that the original Autel software load that came with the MS906TS still works without buying a subscription renewal. (There's no access to new vehicle coverage, updates or fixes/debugging downloads.) Realistically, the MS906TS has been superseded by the MS906-Pro, Pro-TS and Max, the 909, 919 and Ultra, each with more computing power, more functions and a higher initial cost than the MS906TS. This review of the MS906TS is now dated.

Can you give any reasons for that claim? I’ve only ever heard good things about autel and am looking at getting an ms908s pro.

I share your curiosity...My experience with the MS906TS has been good, no complaints, great build quality, subscription renewal is optional if you are okay with the original software load and not being updated with changes or the need to add new models. (The scanner continues working.) I would note that Autel support and workshops lean toward the 919 and Ultra at this stage. I just looked at the official site, and the "MS908S Pro II" is shown. Make sure you get the latest offering in the model line. There was a significant difference between my MS906TS and the "Pro" that followed. Technology and features are constantly changing.

@ I own one that is how I know. When I posted on Reddit about it, 100's of people shared the same issues!!

@ They are still pushing the MS906ts and claiming that it is new, yet there are reviews everywhere with it coming with 2021/2 software. Mine has been a joke since day one. Doesn't do half the stuff fails at basic resets, forget about any key fobs newer than 2006. Only supports their brand TPS, If you don't keep it connected to the internet, it won't even do a basic code scan on a 22 Kia. The scam list goes on. There are tons of Reddit pages about it as well as reviews everywhere!

Sounds sensible! I usually build at 8.7:1 compression with a mild ("RV") camshaft like the coil on plug 2000-up camshaft that CompCams now offers. (Historically I ran the CompCams 252 grind but that does not work with C-O-P engines. CompCams has updated with a camshaft that does work.) Good lift, mild duration creates good tip-in and bottom end torque. I find that 9:1 is tops for running unleaded regular fuel.

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Appreciate the reply, and the information. I'll keep that in mind when the time comes to take her apart.

You're welcome! Enjoy your XJ, ours has over 191K miles now without a teardown yet. Secret to longevity is preventive care. In addition to regular maintenance, I change components at the earliest telltale signs of fatigue. Parts are plentiful and inexpensive. This is a great 4x4, and the 4.0L seven-main bearing inline six with MPI is very durable! So are the AW4, AX15 and NV3550 transmissions.

Glad it was helpful! Your subscription is valued, too...Thanks!

Very good question. We have the Ram 3500 4x4 truck with 37"x12.5"x17" tires, and you can see the fit. Similarly, the fit is good for our '99 XJ Cherokee with 33" oversized tires and a suspension lift...We also have a 2003 VW Jetta GL Wagon with stock tires, wheels and ride height. I was concerned about the Jetta due to the ramp's rise and break angles. It has been no issue. Of course, the tires are narrower and do not need the full width of the ramps. That does not make the ramps awkward or less efficient for this car. (I always adjust the ramps to center each wheel/tire on each ramp.) The approach with a front air dam is quite close but does clear the ramps before the car's tires begin to rise on the ramps...I trust this is helpful and food for thought. Yes, the ramps are expensive. They are also very safe if you need to crawl under vehicles. If you decide to invest here, be sure to shop around for the best deal.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudelI really appreciate that information, I am new to working on cars bc these stealerships and mechanics are breaking my pockets so I wanted to learn something new n start fixing my shit myself I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma and 2001 tundra I’m guessing by your answer those trucks would do well on these ramps I may pull the trigger on a set of these bc they seem safer than the other options out there since they’re rated for 20 tons

Either of your trucks would be optimal size for the OTC lifts. I do all of my own vehicle maintenance, repairs, rebuilding and restoration. These ramps are the next best thing to a lift/hoist. If you don't have ceiling room for a lift, ramps are the practical solution. Used safely and properly, centered for the vehicle at hand, these ramps provide a significant safety margin for light trucks like we're discussing. They are designed for medium-duty commercial truck use. I want that margin of safety and stability when I'm rolling around under a vehicle. (Use safety chocks at the two wheels still on the floor level.) Be aware that these sturdy ramps are hefty. The handles work well once you become familiar with them. The ramps roll and maneuver well for their weight. As a footnote, my Ram truck and Jeep are 4x4s. I use low range when climbing my ramps to control/slow the speed and ease the rise onto the ramp decks. Have someone spot your first uses of the ramps.

@ sounds good !!! So there’s no need to buy the wider ones for just normal cars/trucks correct? Bc I seen the wider ones are 1500$

The wider ones are not necessary. They would be for a medium duty truck with extra wide tires (agricultural equipment, a dump truck or cement truck would be examples). The OTC 5268 ramps are rated 20-ton capacity. These are the ones I use and have been describing. They are wide enough for my 37"x12.5"x17" tires on the Ram 3500.

Yes, and Advance Adapters, my source, is a direct dealer for new Aisin transmissions. These transmissions are found behind V-8 conversions. I would trust an AX15 for 250 horsepower, it's a robust transmission with good stamina. Especially if new and cared for, an AX15 would be a simpler approach for the Jeep 4.6L stroker build. If you do a new AX15, make sure the axle gearing matches the tire diameter to reduce load on both the clutch and transmission.

True...My use of dummy bearings or manufactured "cone tool" simulated bearings are for initial fit-up only. Setting final bearing preloads is always done with new bearings in place. Final ring-and-pinion tooth contact patterns are always done with new bearings. My use of "good used" bearings for initial work has proven more reliable than industry tools that simulate bearing cone sizes. To your point, modern quality brand bearings that adhere to international standards testing strive for tolerances in the 1/100,000ths of an inch during production. Trial fit bearings are a time saving way to reach a reasonable starting point. For a trial fit-up of ring-and-pinion gears in a production axle, new and "good" used bearings have close enough tolerances...Always set bearing preloads and final check the tooth contact patterns with the new bearings. Setting pinion depth, which is the most important axle building reference step, can also be checked with an arbor and discs, a scooter block and dial indicator. I have the Miller/SPX equipment to do this "factory" method for setting pinion depth on a Dana or AAM 9.25" or 11.5" axle. However, the cost of this tool set, even if found used at eBay, is prohibitive for most DIY installers. There are a few "universal" aftermarket pinion depth tools that get good reviews. As for tolerances, Dana and Spicer pinion bearing shimming is often done with just the original pinion gear marks. Shim stack adjustments for the new pinion gear are made by using the marks on the new pinion gear head and looking up the thousandths of an inch shim adjustment on a chart.

You're welcome...The aim is to balance the engine safely (left to right). You have the alternator below where the AC compressor would stand. I would estimate where the compressor would be and find an equivalent vertical point-likely in alignment with the outer edge of the alternator. Make sure the attachment point is solid and substantial. (A quality ratchet strap can play a role here if necessary. Avoid wires, connectors, harnesses and hoses.) If you change one mount at a time, the weight suspended at that side will be far less. (Loosen the opposite mount just enough to allow the engine to pivot readily.) Raise the engine at the passenger/alternator side enough to safely remove and install the new mount. Secure and torque the smaller fasteners then install the long through bolt-not fully tight yet. Install the opposite mount the same way. Once both mounts are in place and the engine has settled, finish tightening and torque the long bolts and nuts. Use Loctite Blue or Orange thread locker on the bolt and nut threads.

Not clear about your transmission's model application and year. Toyota, yes, but the year would help. I have Mopar parts manuals for comparing the intermediate plate part numbers on the AX15 from 1989-99 Jeep models, including the 4.2L/4.0L Jeep YJ, '97-'99 TJ and 4.0L XJ Cherokee applications. I do have Toyota shop manuals for the eighties and into the nineties. Glad to compare if you can share details on "older" versus "newer" parts.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks for the reply. From what I can tell, the box I have is the earlier style with the nut on the end of the countershaft, I think I read that is the style the US 4runners had behind the turbo 22RE (86-88), though it would have been from an early Hilux or Surf (anywhere from 1990 to '93 and later). The parts I have ordered and replaced would be from the later model JDM trucks (i.e. Hilux, Prado) which would be later 90's to around '08.

For part number comparisons, I looked at each year from 1989 to 1999 under Jeep applications of the AX15. This is the widest model year spread in Jeep's use of the Aisin 5-speed AX15. All 1989-99 models use the same part number for the intermediate plate, which sold in combination with the front transmission case under Mopar part number 05252034 (designated as "CASE, Transmission"). It's the same for each model year from 1989-99. If these Chrysler/Jeep listings are applicable to Toyota parts, it suggests that at least from 1989 up, Aisin's intermediate plate would be the same design and parts fit. If there was a change, it would be an updated or superseded part number, which does not happen for Mopar. I found the part(s) under a two- and four-wheel drive 1997 Dodge Dakota pickup listing at: www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/dodge/Dakota/CASE-Transmission-Four-Wheel-Drive--Two-Wheel-Drive/4321652/05252034.html. It's the same part numbers as Jeep listed and is "Currently not available" from Mopar. (If you drill down at the link's "What It Fits", the current catalog applications for this part number are shown as 1997-99 Dodge Dakota and Jeep; however, the earlier Mopar catalogs back to 1989 show the same part number.) Let us know what you discover and the remedy for your issue.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks, I appreciate you looking into this. I managed to pickup a second hand intermediate plate from a 2004 Prado. I measured up the surface that the reverse idler sits against on the intermediate plate and the newer style has approximately 7.5mm less material. This confirms my suspicion. I'll strip the clusters out of the original plate and move them over to the new plate and see how it goes. There are a other small differences I can see which hopefully won't cause any issues but only one way to find out..

This sounds promising! Keep us posted. Others with the A150 and similar derivatives will be grateful for your information and findings. Thanks...

The headlight assemblies are AlphaRex LUXX series. I did not change the bulbs that came with the AlphaRex LUXX headlights. Beyond the video you watched here at the channel, I did an article at my magazine: 4wdmechanix.com/2005-gen-3-ram-alpharex-luxx-series-headlight-upgrade/. To my knowledge, there is no way to replace the LUXX's projector bulbs that came with these assemblies. You would need to purchase the entire headlamp assembly or assemblies. (You might contact AlphaRex to confirm whether or not they offer bulbs as a separate item.) Lamps like those in the LUXX headlights are built into the headlight assemblies. While they will last a very long time, new headlamp assemblies would replace them at that point. Unless defective, headlight assemblies like these usually last until the vehicle is sold or traded.

My mirrors came from Baja Designs, a quality setup. However, you've likely discovered that Baja Designs no longer offers dual-sport motorcycle conversion products. (They also did great stator rewinds. Wish I had gotten mine done.) So, my suggestion would be one of the major parts retailers: Revzilla, Chaparral, Rocky Mountain and others. See if Acerbis has any offerings, they have quality products. Come join us at the motorcycle channel: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Let us know what kind of mirrors you find! There is a lot of XR650R content at the motorcycle channel now.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks. Will do. Already subscribed.

Thanks, your subscription is valued...Subscribers help determine the channel's content and where we're going!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Do you have a video on oil line installation. Very tight location to put 2 screws in to hold lines tin motor.

Which oil line are you doing? I'll check my bike and see how the line might be approached.

A complete rebuild kit consists of all bearings, seals and gaskets (as needed), shims, a new self-locking pinion nut (if used), a pinion nut back-up washer (if used), sealant or a gasket for the differential cover, and tooth contact paste with a brush for testing the ring-and-pinion mesh or tooth contact pattern. "Quality" means bearings, seals and shims that meet OEM standards or better. I like Timken, SKF, Federal-Mogul and NSK bearings. Bearings are made to an international standard. When we stay with higher quality bearings, the dimensions are so close that shim stack thicknesses generally remain the same. (Notice that I use bearings with minimal wear for trial fit of shims and parts. This is because the tolerances are that close to the new bearings.) Seals are the same. Quality seal manufacturers include Timken, Federal-Mogul, National, Dana and SKF. Better suppliers sell these components as a "package" alongside a ring-and-pinion gear set.

Thank you. I prefer Timken or SKF. And between the two, choose SKF. But I cannot find an SKF Master rebuild kit. Only the 11.5 SKF master kit.

If you have a 2003-2013 Ram with the 9.25", try AAM for the 9.25" kit. Eaton offers differential installation kits although differential-only may not include all of the parts needed for a complete ring-and-pinion change. There is Yukon and Randy's, as well as Revolution Gear, Superior and Torque King 4x4. I checked out the Torque King offering for a Ram 9.25". Seems pricy but this is a quality, (full) kit example: torqueking.com/product/4880/tk4880-master-front-differential-bearing-and-seal-kit-for-ram-aam-925/.

Mickey Thompson follows our content and listens!

Yep, still "at it", Bill! Let us know how the 42" tires work...You'll find the new motorcycle channel interesting, I just passed through Smith Valley on the back way to Bodie. We rode enduro bikes from 338 and NF 028 to Four Corners and up the Bodie Road/State Route 3C: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Stopped at Rosie's Place for dinner!

The Mickey Thompson website can help direct you here: www.mickeythompsontires.com/.

Thanks for your input here...In our interview/tour, Ben Anderson talks about the latest rubber compounds and tire elements. He spoke specifically about the longer wear and longer (limited) warranty on mileage. The M/T website can furnish details at: www.mickeythompsontires.com/. Check it out!

Glad you liked it! You're welcome...

Ben Anderson knows the facts and details. He's a great resource for an interview!

Yes, they do!

These are popular retailers...I'm fortunate to be near the Summit Racing Warehouse at Sparks, Nevada. M/T Tires and Wheels has a long list of distributors.

Very stylish while being fully functional...I like them, too. Bronze is catchy.

I'll have to check it out...

Conceived to combat center-of-gravity and roll center issues. Full-Traction Suspension put a lot of research into the design. It's worth talking with the tech staff at Full-Traction Suspension for more details.

Drove home 410 miles yesterday, half after dark on two-way traffic, two lane U.S. 95 from Las Vegas to Fallon then 50A to Fernley. Pleased with the safer bright lights, no irritated on comers, no eye strain. Doesn't get any better!

If it's a removable crankcase, the casting repair could work well. Be sure to remove the crankcase from the block, though. Heating and welding a crankcase in place is a recipe for a bad fire or, worse yet, igniting the hot, volatile fumes and causing an explosion. The crankcase should be cleaned thoroughly, glass bead blasted if necessary, then washed under pressure before drying and welding. "V"-ing or grooving the fissure or break is important for complete weld penetration. If a crack, drill a hole at each end of the crack to prevent the crack from continuing; "V" or groove the crack for complete weld penetration. Any weld build-up/penetration inside the crankcase should be smoothed to prevent sloughing off of any slag. The crankcase's mating surface with the block should be checked for flatness or finished (milled) after welding for a correct fit. Grey cast iron doesn't move much, that's why it's prone to cracking at the heat affected zone as the weld cools and contracts. If you are concerned about warp during welding, consider bolting the crankcase to a flat metal surface before welding...Also, if the crankcase break or crack is not part of a load bearing member or under a lot of pressure in service, brazing is often a lower temperature repair approach.

Quality LED lights make a dramatic difference. I'm headed to the SEMA Show/Las Vegas pre-dawn tomorrow. You can imagine the difference it makes driving with the LEDs. It's much better for oncoming drivers, too: The "cut-off line" with LEDs is distinct and helpful. The OEM lamps were horrible. Between their dim, diffused light and an unclear high/low beam brightness, nobody could see. Pick a quality lighting setup and enjoy sharp, bright roads ahead!

The installation shown is a 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee. All parts needed for this brake application have been shown. These brake pads have locating lugs (shown and discussed in the video) that keep pads from rotating or shifting out of position in the caliper. (Some brake pad types use spring clips at the pad ends to keep pads from rotating or shifting.) These 1999 XJ Cherokee brake pads do have "shim" backers built into the backside of the pads. I added special paste (orange) designed for anti-squeal to the backside (not the friction material side) of the pads. The paste covers the built-in shims on this brake pad set-up. To confirm whether a specific make or model with disc brakes uses additional shims, clips, springs or other hardware, consult a Mopar parts catalog or a brake parts supplier's catalog for your make and model.

Just went into this topic at the motorcycle channel. You can find that lengthy exchange at youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. (You'll find this video and Comments there.) You'll also find that exchange in my "Q&A" video (Episode 3) on this topic...Join us, I'd be glad to continue with any questions you have after watching the "Tech and Travel Q&A" on oil going out the breather. I'll mention here that the transmission and engine crankcase use the same oil. The crankcase section for the crankshaft and lower end of the engine is a chamber separated by a one-way reed valve between the crankcase and the transmission gearset...Thanks!

This kind of creativity and ingenuity could keep the ICE alive. Your concept dovetails with the Pulstar engineering. Thanks for sharing!

I have a video on the installation (TCI Products racks) at the motorcycle channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIbPmWWhasykh6c. TCI included a substantial under-fender brace for this rack set. TCI engineered this well, however, the issue is weight capacity of the rear sub-frame on these bikes. (The subframe is aluminum on an XR650R.) My weight limit, including racks, the under-fender brace and payload is no more than 50 pounds. Others may push it beyond this. The brace attaches to the subframe with 6mm stud size bolts, so judge from there...Join us at the motorcycle channel, lots of discussion and tech videos: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel.

I'm with ya here! 5,000 rpm is the practical limit for these engines. 4,500 rpm makes a sensible redline. The later 258/4.2L inline sixes reached peak torque around 1600 rpm-much like a diesel's torque rise. Unless racing, not much need to rev over 4,000 rpm on the highway or trail!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback...

Pleased this worked well...That was the intent. Thanks for your feedback!

Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks for the feedback...Glad that the video helps. You will like my motorcycle channel at youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Join us there!

Tudor...This is a great question and issue that many XR650R and other 4-stroke owners might have...I'd like to ask a favor: Could you please copy and paste your question at this same video on the motorcycle channel? You'll find the video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mprVkJywoMeCgKs. I am excited to share my reply and details! We're growing the motorcycle channel (youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel), and there are already many XR650R-related exchanges...Thanks!

Good that you have not attempted to install the head, pushrods and rocker arms. If you primed the oiling system with the head, pushrods and valvetrain not on the block, several or all of the lifters have "pumped up". The plungers extended in those lifters, and now the non-compressible oil will not allow the plungers to drop down. (In a normal engine running, with all parts installed, it takes several rotations of the crankshaft for each 0.001" of plunger drop. At this point, you cannot assemble and crank the engine to achieve this drop without risk of damaging the valves and pistons.) So, you need to remove the lifters from their bores and push down/pump each lifter plunger with a pushrod to expel the oil from within the lifter. Once the oil is pumped out, you can reinstall the lifters, install the head and rockers (no pushrods in place at this point) then measure the pushrod lengths for correct plunger preloads with a CompCams or similar pushrod length gauge. Fit the correct length pushrod at each position and reinstall the rocker arms...As for finding the crankshaft position with both valves closed, install your distributor with #1 piston at TDC. Note the position of the rotor. Spark plugs removed and pistons visible, lifters on their base circles or low points, check pushrod lengths and lifter preloads for #1 cylinder. Now rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction until #5 piston just reaches TDC. Both lifters for #5 should be on their base circles or low points of their camshaft lobes. If the piston is at TDC with both valves closed, you can check the pushrod lengths and lifter preloads. Now slowly rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction to #3 piston at TDC, both lifters on the base circles of their lobes, and fit these two pushrods while determining the correct lifter preload. Do this for each cylinder in the remaining firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4). Consider that each position in the firing order is 120 crankshaft degrees apart. As an alternative, if you have a degree wheel or protractor, you can mark the damper pulley at the #1/#6 TDC position (already a factory mark there) and then at 120 and 240 degrees. Following the firing order and rotor position, align the marks while verifying that the piston is at TDC.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I will read this post a couple times to absorb the info, but to be clear, I primed it while everything was assembled. Spun the oil pump gear with a drill until the rockers overflowed. This was a few months ago. The engine sat while I researched some stuff. I recently disassembled the rockers to change the springs out for cam break in. I think I can still apply your technique to drain the lifters. The motor has never been started. Working towards cam break in but had to go backward to verify some bad intel from the guy who supplied the rotating assembly. Proceeding with caution...

Priming while assembled should have worked...A possible cause for the lifter plungers to rise and stay extended would be oil present in the hollow pushrods and lifter oil galley while you removed the valve springs. When you removed the rocker arms, pushrods slacked and the lifter plungers rose under their internal spring pressure. Oil could have drained down from the pushrods and into the lifters (some or all of them), filling the lifters. This would hold the lifter plunger in the extended position...Yes, try what I suggested about removing the lifters (easy enough on a Jeep inline six). Pump the oil out of the lifters, and if necessary, do the pushrod length/lifter preload check again with a CompCams pushrod length gauge available at Summit Racing and elsewhere. I describe the gauge in my forum coverage at: forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/849-choosing-jeep-40l-and-stroker-six-pushrod-length/. With the right pushrod lengths for correct lifter clearances, lube the lifter bases with assembly lube and install the pushrods and rocker arms before priming again. (General rule: Do not prime or crank a hydraulic lifter engine with the rocker arms removed.) Let us know what your find.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I have the measuring tool and the lifters on no 1 are not solid/pumped up, so I can get my rod measurement. I'll empty the others and hopefully everything will be ok. Thanks a million friend!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Fun with lifters. Got the first one out and the oil wouldn't pump out so I took it apart and put it back together. Some oil did spill out and it seems really good now. Would torquing the lifters and slowly rotating the crank force the oil out up through the rod. I always heard about lifters draining over time too. Hylift/Johnson lifters. Never under any significant load. Just from hand turning the crank a few times. Big problem is that several cannot be removed to service due to the head. Do the holes on the plunger line up with the outside hole or should they offset? I will have to do this one more time when I replace the springs. I think I'm just gonna have to use the crank to take pressure off of the lifters and hope for the best. I can remove about 8 of them but I do believe that I'm ok as long as I get the rod length right. FASCINATING STUFF! EDIT: Plungers fully compress after disassembly. Seem a bit soft, but probably normal.

Thanks!...It's tough making choices in the scan tool market. This unit still shows up in retailer inventories and works for me. The push is to the 909, 919, Ultra and, yes, get ready, an even newer model that's coming out shortly. For commercial shops, the 909-up Autel scan tools are great-and even vital-for the latest model vehicles. Annual software subscriptions get paid by customer service at the shops. DIY techs with personal vehicles do not have this advantage, and the "discontinued" MS906TS has proven cost-effective and worthwhile for many.

That's the trailer for the one hour and fifteen minute step-by-step video you can view at kzbin.info/www/bejne/omHdfp-Mlsqbq9k.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Oh ok gotcha. Thanks.

You're welcome...Thanks for the reply. I clarified the title...The full-length video has positive feedback.

Excellent...Steve Roberts and I thought this would be helpful to users. These are rugged, highly durable units when used and shifted correctly...You'll really enjoy its virtues!

Also can it cruise 75 mph pretty well? Im working on a xr, and i want to be able to cruise on the highway, as well as do some trails/fire roads etc. It has 13/50 right now and i was going to put on a 15/48 and keep that 13 front for knarly trails and just change it onsite

The issue with that is i dont want to have to change the sprocket in the field if i dont have to. In your proffesional opinion what is the best ratio for a decent time on the highway, and enough power to lug some trails

Yes...stock ratio. A bit low gearing for highway. I run this for combination dirt/highway and to keep a load off the clutch in single track crawls. The rear tire is slightly oversized, which makes the gearing just a tad taller, not equivalent to a 15/48 or other sprocket changes, though...Frankly, for dual-sport riding on asphalt, I'm always hunting for a sixth gear on upshifts-and there isn't one! (My '84 XR350R is a six-speed; my XR500R slated for restoration is five speeds like the XR650R.) Trust this helps...Join us at the Motorcycle Tech and Travel channel: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. There's a lot of content on the XR650R there.

For cruising 75 mph, it will do it with the 14/48 but is a waste of fuel and creates unnecessary piston travel. These engines have so much mid-range power that there is no need to ever experience the rev limiter. Your 13/50 ratio must be a real "tractor" for off-pavement and way low for highway! My bike will likely stick with the 14/48, as it does surprisingly well on slow, idle-and-tip-in single track, even with the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft (which does not seem to bother the slow speed performance). 15/48 might be "okay" to save sprocket changing, especially if your sights are set on a 75 mph cruise speed...Let's continue this conversation at Motorcycle Tech and Travel, I'd like to stay in contact around your plans, and our exchanges would be helpful to others!

I'm very pleased...Thanks for the feedback!

The chain at the passenger/right side is cradling the back of air conditioning compressor. At minutes 1:40-1:51, you see the chain tensioned at the rear of the A/C compressor. What may seem confusing is the two slacked pieces of chain that are simply the extra ends of the support chains. (See 2:04-2:11 for the slack at the extra chain.) There is no chain attachment at the front of the compressor or anywhere near the fan. Support at the passenger side of the engine is strictly the chain slung beneath the back of the compressor. The compressor has enough support to handle this amount of engine weight. When lifting, use the wing nuts on the beam as noted. To change motor mounts, the engine actually pivots upward from the rear transmission mount. Weight on the support beam is not extreme, which you will see when you tighten the wing nut handles. Be careful and watch for parts interference, binding or obstructions. Lift just enough to safely remove the mount(s). Keep hands out of harm's way at all times. Watch through the video again with these steps in mind.

Are you looking for an Advance Adapters "Ranger Torque Splitter", the two-speed (overdrive) gearbox that goes between your GM V8 bellhousing and the SM465 transmission? The folks at Advance Adapters could have a lead: phone 1-800-350-2223 or contact www.advanceadapters.com. I ran this same setup in the late eighties, a Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 with a 383 Chevy stroker V8 and SM465 four-speed manual truck box. Great for split shifting and an overdrive gear! The Torque Splitter uses a single shift lever. You have two levers with the SM465 Muncie truck box and its cane.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Yes, this is exactly what I'm lookin for. Thanks for the tip. I had heard they don't manufacture this untit anymore, but hoping for some kinda lead.

Most have opted for later transmission swaps like the NV4500, NV5600 or more recently the Tremec 4050, each with an overdrive top gear. (The iron NV4500 five-speed and iron NV5600 six-speed were available in GM and Dodge Ram 2WD and 4WD trucks. I prefer the NV4500 five-speed for its reliability record.) Split shifting was the bonus with the Ranger Torque Splitter. There was always a "right" gear when pulling a load or saving fuel at cruise.

I actually got a reply from them, and appreciate the efforts. Doesn't look too proming tho.

Thought that might be the situation for the reasons I suggested. There's the Gear Vendors overdrive available for your SM465/2WD truck. For a C30, the Gear Vendors overdrive would be approaching the top of its GVWR/GCVWR. (Gear Vendors' commercial warranty is limited to 25,000-pounds GCVWR.) The good news is that it can be split-shifted and installs readily with a driveline length cut. Here are details: www.gearvendors.com/cg2wdt.html. Again, you could consider an NV4500 with overdrive if split shifting is not a must. Your truck is 2WD, and the changeover would not be difficult (transmission mount and driveline length, primarily). There are recycled and rebuilt transmissions available. Check out the NV4500 availability. The NV5600 is an option, though there are mandatory upgrades needed to keep an NV5600 alive.